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Old 08-24-09, 07:12 PM   #26
MallenManson
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Originally Posted by nofearengineer View Post
1600, I have an 18' aluminum Tracker (probably around the same weight as your 16' fiberglass, glass boats are usually a little heavier than aluminum) with a 115 on the back. I have a 13-1/4 x 20 stainless prop. I have had the same difficulty in getting on plane on a couple of occasions. Both of those times, the boat was seriously overloaded with fat fishermen, and 350 lbs of livewell water.

Your prop is one inch higher than mine, which would make it slightly harder to get out of the hole, on a similarly sized motor, like you have. Is your motor older; i.e. maybe not cranking out a true 115 hp anymore?

Did you have the livewell(s) full when you had the problem?

I still think if your boat is rated for 115 hp it should get up on plane, even if loaded a bit...just thought I'd throw some maybe's out there.


nofear, you never fail to crack me up.
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Old 08-25-09, 10:15 AM   #27
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nofear, you never fail to crack me up.
Hahah, well, it's true. I love the weight recommendation stickers they plaster on the boats. Mine says 5 people or 955 lbs. 1700 lbs passenger, gear, and motor.

Well, the motor is 403 lbs. A full livewell is about 350. 41 gallons of fuel is about 275 lbs.Three batteries is another 175 lbs. Trolling motor about 40 lbs.

This only leaves about 457 lbs for anglers and their gear. I don't know about you, but I pack a lot of gear (100 lb'ish), and I pack even more angler (me haha). My only option is to only carry about 12 gallons of fuel (plenty), which saves some weight, but if my other angler is a 250-300 lb'er, I'm idling back to the dock if we catch anything (full livewell). Man...I need a bigger motor heh. Either that or I need to lose a bunch of weight and find skinnier friends.
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Last edited by nofearengineer; 08-25-09 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 08-25-09, 11:06 AM   #28
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Only eat whatcha catch and the pounds will fall right off!!!

HEHE
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Old 08-25-09, 11:54 AM   #29
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Only eat whatcha catch and the pounds will fall right off!!!

HEHE
I think I would probably starve to death.
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Old 08-31-09, 02:24 PM   #30
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hows it goin??
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Old 08-31-09, 09:35 PM   #31
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ok here's the pictures with the measurements i took with my current setup. With motor trimmed down all the way and on level ground, the cavitation plate is 2 inches above the keel of boat(bottom of boat). If you want the measurement of the bullet portion/shaft to the keel, that is 4 inches, which i outlined in the picture. These are the measurements 1FastLaser asked me to take, if i understand everything correctly.

I didnt' change my setup yet and went to doing some testing today on the water. Unfortuntately my tach might need some testing to be sure its working accurately. My results below are fluctuating.

At one point, i had very good holeshot with 3 people in the boat. WOT, trimmed nicely, and it ran at 5500rpms and one time even 6000 rpm. Then had some more friends who wanted to fish, then came four people on the boat and it really struggled to get on plane, but it eventually did after several attempts.

During these failed attempts to get on plane the rpms would only get to 3000-3500rpms and wouldn't push the boat on plane, i would get intermittent spikes in rpms like the propeller wasnt biting the water enough and the rpms spiked up to 6000-6500 at times going no where, so had to back down on throttle and try again.

Once warmed up, it seems this engine runs alot better. I was hoping to get through the fall before doing the impeller and rebuilding the carbs and any other periodic maintenance to see if this will improve anything. My gut feeling is i have a motor issue and not a setup issue, as i got one very good holeshot over the weekend that gave me hope that i dont have to raise the engine, but i'll wait to see what the knowledgeable guys on here think.

After looking at these pics, what do you guys think? Do i still need to raise the engine? Its already 2 inches above the keel.
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Old 08-31-09, 09:45 PM   #32
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btw, i have my parts for installing my water pressure gauge on the way. The bad thing is on my 1989 engine, (v4 crossflow bubble back 110 johnson) you have to tap a "T"into the Tell tale in order to run a water pressure gauge. There is no water jacket or hole available anywhere else on this engine to tap into. I've looked and looked, nothing to be found. I guess on these older style boats, water pressure gauges were and option and as long as the tell tale was functioning, it was the indicator that the impeller was working was what i was told from speaking with a OMC dealer.

Im a bit worried that it will not push enough pressure for a decent reading for the gauge. Has anyone else tapped into the Tell Tale and successfully got a good reading?
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Old 08-31-09, 10:10 PM   #33
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one question not asked on here. how long do you let it idle a fore taking off? those older freak horse omc tend to vapor lock..i had a 130 do it quite a bit..

if i remeber right the 110 is a TWEAKED 90 horse 3 holer..

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Old 08-31-09, 10:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1600TF View Post


ok here's the pictures with the measurements i took with my current setup. With motor trimmed down all the way and on level ground, the cavitation plate is 2 inches above the keel of boat(bottom of boat). If you want the measurement of the bullet portion/shaft to the keel, that is 4 inches, which i outlined in the picture. These are the measurements 1FastLaser asked me to take, if i understand everything correctly.

I didnt' change my setup yet and went to doing some testing today on the water. Unfortuntately my tach might need some testing to be sure its working accurately. My results below are fluctuating.

At one point, i had very good holeshot with 3 people in the boat. WOT, trimmed nicely, and it ran at 5500rpms and one time even 6000 rpm. Then had some more friends who wanted to fish, then came four people on the boat and it really struggled to get on plane, but it eventually did after several attempts.

During these failed attempts to get on plane the rpms would only get to 3000-3500rpms and wouldn't push the boat on plane, i would get intermittent spikes in rpms like the propeller wasnt biting the water enough and the rpms spiked up to 6000-6500 at times going no where, so had to back down on throttle and try again.

Once warmed up, it seems this engine runs alot better. I was hoping to get through the fall before doing the impeller and rebuilding the carbs and any other periodic maintenance to see if this will improve anything. My gut feeling is i have a motor issue and not a setup issue, as i got one very good holeshot over the weekend that gave me hope that i dont have to raise the engine, but i'll wait to see what the knowledgeable guys on here think.

After looking at these pics, what do you guys think? Do i still need to raise the engine? Its already 2 inches above the keel.

dude measure from the GROUND to the keel then measure from the ground to the prop shaft and subtract. this will give you your pad to prop measurement..
you should be able to move up to the bottom hole with ease.. looks like 4"+ easy...

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Old 09-01-09, 01:41 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zooker View Post
one question not asked on here. how long do you let it idle a fore taking off? those older freak horse omc tend to vapor lock..i had a 130 do it quite a bit..

if i remeber right the 110 is a TWEAKED 90 horse 3 holer..

zooker

i let it idle for about 30 secs before taking off, but i do notice that if i let it idle longer, it doesnt tend to give me much problems. Possibly vapor lock, what is it, sounds bad to me, is this bad for an outboard?
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Old 09-01-09, 02:04 AM   #36
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dude measure from the GROUND to the keel then measure from the ground to the prop shaft and subtract. this will give you your pad to prop measurement..
you should be able to move up to the bottom hole with ease.. looks like 4"+ easy...

zooker
ok, i'm finally understanding this whole pad to prop measurement

Then i think my measurements in the picture is about right then, approximately 4 inches is the pad to prop measurement on my setup.

So the prop shaft is rougly 4 inches below the keel right now. If i raise the outboard up and try to get the prop shaft as close the keel as i can, what should i be expecting as results of this change in setup? Faster top end or better hole shot. I would really like a fix that will better my holeshot and get on plane quicker. And will there be any negative effects to raising the engine? I want to account for any changes before actually altering the current setup.

After all this explanation of prop to pad measurement, I'm confused a bit now, i thought the cavitation plate is what you want closet to the keel, i wasn't aware that it is the prop shaft that you want closet to the keel. Which is correct? I guess i'm not fully understanding the reason for the prop to pad measurement.

If i definitely need to raise it, then yell at me guys. i just want to make sure i get this thing set up correctly.

Last edited by 1600TF; 09-01-09 at 02:22 AM. Reason: rewording
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Old 09-01-09, 03:01 AM   #37
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another question comes to mind, sounds like i will have to raise this motor eventually. Do i need to remove the gas tank in order to reach the heads of the bolts that are holding the the outboard to the transom from inside the boat? I'm worried that i will go to remove the bolts and they will spin and spin cause i dont have a rachet on the other end holding the heads of the bolts.

I really hope i dont have mess with taking the tank out.
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Old 09-01-09, 06:29 AM   #38
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Ok we are getting somewhere now. As far as removing the tank I dont know. Possibly get a friend to help you out that can hold the wrench onone side while you use a ratchet on the other. YES u are to deep. I personally now that I see your shaft to pad realtionship would move the motor up 2 bolt holes........thats the least I would do. In all reality you could go 3. GAoing 2 holes will remove ALOT of leg drag for some MUCH better topend speeds. Your holeshot is sounding right. REMEBER you have a heavy boat.......the more people the harder it is to get her outta the water.......the more gear same result..harder to get outta the water and on pad.
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Old 09-04-09, 11:56 PM   #39
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so looks like i'm gonna raise this engine and look to getting a jackplate...

As i go to plan this out and see what i'm gonna be tackling, i notice the top two transom bolts holding the outboard on are exposed on both end, so they easy to get to.

The bottom two on the transom are trickier, i can only access them on the outside of the transom. If there's a nut on the other end of these bolts on the inside, its look like its hiding behind my built-in plastic gas tank inside the boat on the other side of the transom. The gas tank is sort of pushed up as far against the transom, making it hard to access anything between it.

Have any of you fellows with bass boats ever seen something like this? I called Tracker corporate parts dept and the lady says all their motors are installed after the gas tanks are put in so she says the lower bolts should be accessible without removing the gas tank. I highly doubt that since i see no way of getting to the other end of the these bolts without removing it. I will have pictures to show you all.

anyone run into this problem before?
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Old 09-05-09, 09:34 AM   #40
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remember your boat is called a tracker but when johnny morris bought them out he re named the boat the nitro... tracker is now a tin boat name..if ya need parts order them for a nitro..

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Old 09-05-09, 11:15 PM   #41
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Not meaning to butt in here but when reading the motor seems to run right sometimes kinda makes me wonder if his motor is running proper..JMO
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Old 09-06-09, 06:29 AM   #42
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Not meaning to butt in here but when reading the motor seems to run right sometimes kinda makes me wonder if his motor is running proper..JMO
Reread this Basscrazie........the main time he fails to get performance is when he puts another person in the boat.

ok here's the pictures with the measurements i took with my current setup. With motor trimmed down all the way and on level ground, the cavitation plate is 2 inches above the keel of boat(bottom of boat). If you want the measurement of the bullet portion/shaft to the keel, that is 4 inches, which i outlined in the picture. These are the measurements 1FastLaser asked me to take, if i understand everything correctly.

I didnt' change my setup yet and went to doing some testing today on the water. Unfortuntately my tach might need some testing to be sure its working accurately. My results below are fluctuating.

At one point, i had very good holeshot with 3 people in the boat. WOT, trimmed nicely, and it ran at 5500rpms and one time even 6000 rpm. Then had some more friends who wanted to fish, then came four people on the boat and it really struggled to get on plane, but it eventually did after several attempts.

During these failed attempts to get on plane the rpms would only get to 3000-3500rpms and wouldn't push the boat on plane, i would get intermittent spikes in rpms like the propeller wasnt biting the water enough and the rpms spiked up to 6000-6500 at times going no where, so had to back down on throttle and try again.

Once warmed up, it seems this engine runs alot better. I was hoping to get through the fall before doing the impeller and rebuilding the carbs and any other periodic maintenance to see if this will improve anything. My gut feeling is i have a motor issue and not a setup issue, as i got one very good holeshot over the weekend that gave me hope that i dont have to raise the engine, but i'll wait to see what the knowledgeable guys on here think.

After looking at these pics, what do you guys think? Do i still need to raise the engine? Its already 2 inches above the keel.


His motor is fine......he is just WAY to deep to allow the engine to operate proficently............as was ALL the tracker boats before someone "loosened them up" 95% of the new boat places set a motor to deep when selling a new one.
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Old 09-06-09, 05:36 PM   #43
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My bad..I was just wondering when he says it runs better at times but i was just making sure the motor wasn't misfirring..Sorry if i offended anyone.
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Old 09-07-09, 10:28 AM   #44
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NO NO NO no offense........ I always like it when someone points sometin out or lets me know ifn I miss something. Trust me bud I aint perfect and ifn I misread a post I want someone to point it out to me.
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Old 09-09-09, 08:25 PM   #45
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havent tackled the raising of the engine quite yet, busy with work.

Got a question for you guys. Do you think there is a nut/washer on the other side of this bolt i circled in red? If there is, i will have to pull the built in gas tank to gain access to the other side. I really would rather not have to move the tank if i dont have to.

What do you all think?

btw, got a nice semi custom boat cover from Carver Industries today, the polyguard version. I give it a thumbs up so far, we'll see how well it hold ups in the rain.
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Old 09-11-09, 11:39 AM   #46
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after talking to a few people local to me, they are telling me these bolts might be Lag Bolts. They get screwed directly into the transom. I hope they are right.
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Old 09-11-09, 11:48 AM   #47
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Either that (lag) or a threaded insert - you'd think they'd design it well enough so it could be delt with w/o major surgey.
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Old 09-14-09, 06:01 AM   #48
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There had better be a fine threaded ss bolt with a nylon type nut on there. NO and I mean NO company would ever put a lag bolt ona motor. I would just about bet you that you can get to the nut side of the bolts with either a wrench or sliding the tank slightly forward with a small amount of effort.
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Old 09-14-09, 12:10 PM   #49
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went out fishing this weekend. two man in the boat. The boat runs great with only two people. Hole shot, was very decent. Never once did i experience problems of being stuck at a certain rpm.

I just put on a water pressure gauge as well. It's hooked up to the tell tale and i get well enough readings. On plane and WOT, i am getting 5200-5500 rpms. And water pressure well over 12 PSI.

No change to my outboard height yet, haven't had time to raise the engine yet.

Got a question, if it seems weight is causing my holeshot problems, will raising of the engine benefit or hurt my setup?

I would love to only have just two people in the boat, but i got alot of friends who dont have boats, so i end up being the nice guy to take them all out with me on my small bass boat.
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Old 08-31-10, 01:01 PM   #50
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very late update. Figured out my problem with planing on this boat. It was caused by weeds getting wrapped around and stuck between the prop and lower gear case. This was causing exhaust ventilation problems. The smaller diameter of this renegade bass prop that im running leaves about a quarter inch gap to where it mounts to the lower gearcase and whenever i go through thick weeds, i end up having to trim the motor up and manually pull the weeds off the prop by hand, otherwise i run into the same issues. With it clear of weeds, it runs great. Its a pain in the butt to do that every time im fishing though thick stuff though.

I know OMC makes a weed ring for this style prop to eliminate this issue but i've only found ones for the newer ETEC engines. I have a 1989 V4 with V6 gearcase outboard and i havent been able to source down whether or not they make a weed ring for my engine. Anyone know if the ETEC ones will work for me?
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