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Old 07-02-08, 10:23 AM   #51
Titleman
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Buzz you should really look into the Fritts reel for deeper cranking. Far casting and at a fair price.
I've had a "Fritts" reel, model DF1000 C, with 4.3:1 gear ratio for about 2 years now and have never had any issues with it. I have it on a "Falcon Original", model FC-4-17, Medium action, 7" rod. Mines a pretty sweet set-up. I've actually thought about getting a couple of more. Best of luck with your new purchase(s). Tom
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Old 07-02-08, 05:05 PM   #52
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Well, Senko, I guess it is the Winch.

I should have it by Wednesday or Thursday of next week. I'll let you know how it goes. Also, I took somebody's advice and went with the Stren MagnaThin in 12-lb. I figured I'd get 12- because it is the same diameter as most 10-'s, although is two pounds stronger.

Thanks for all your help with the reels, guys!

Welcome to the board, Titleman!

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Old 07-03-08, 12:12 PM   #53
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If you are going to fish where the line is going to suffer abrassion then donīt use Magnathin, itīs a great line but definately itīs abrassion resistance is near zero.
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Old 07-03-08, 10:47 PM   #54
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I'm mostly going to be fishing milfoil, chara, and some elodea.

Do you think I should have went with 12-lb or 10-lb? I figured since it's thinner than most lines, it would've took too much 10-lb to fill my spool, so I got the 12-lb. Hope it's not too thick, although it says it's equal to 10...
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Old 07-04-08, 10:02 AM   #55
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It's just 10lb and 12lb, not a big deal.

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Old 07-04-08, 12:31 PM   #56
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Actually, in crankin', line weight is a big deal.

Every 2-lb. increments you switch, you either gain or lose 1.5' of depth. Most lure manufacturers test crankbaits on 10-lb. line; say you use 12-lb. You will lose 1.5' of the depth labeled on the package.
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Old 07-04-08, 02:41 PM   #57
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Actually, in crankin', line weight is a big deal.

Every 2-lb. increments you switch, you either gain or lose 1.5' of depth. Most lure manufacturers test crankbaits on 10-lb. line; say you use 12-lb. You will lose 1.5' of the depth labeled on the package.
every crankbait dives differantly. buy 6 production cranks say a rapala dt6 fish all 6 on the same line. odds are only 3 will hit 6 feet the other 3 will come up short. of the 3 that dive 6 feet at least one will dive to 8 feet..of those 6 cranks only ONE will out fish all the othes. why ? we don't know.

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Old 07-04-08, 04:01 PM   #58
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So you're implying hand-made baits are the way to go, Zook?
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Old 07-04-08, 04:38 PM   #59
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Rapalas arenīt hand made, they are hand tuned individually before being packed.

Hand made cranks are more expensive than LCs.
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Old 07-04-08, 04:42 PM   #60
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But I assume they'd run truer, correct?
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Old 07-04-08, 04:50 PM   #61
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It depends on what you mean truer, hand tuned before packing and out of the box only means that they run true out of the box at least for the brief period of time before a fish strikes them, afterwards who knows what can happen.

In my personal experience some lures run true for years others may not and will eventually need a little tunning, why is this ? I have no idea, theoritically speaking if they are made with the same materials you could expect the lure to run true but itīs not always the case.
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Old 07-04-08, 04:52 PM   #62
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I guess it depends what works for you. Good discussion though...

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Old 07-04-08, 04:53 PM   #63
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I've had to hand tune many a rapala, it was the crankbait of choice in the 80.s
depends on how they get banged up in shipping, the store, an on the water..

I was using 14 to 20 all year for cranking, put new line on friday that was 10 an 12, learned my lesson. lost several big fish that snapped me off....I'm going back to braid, even on crankin' and spinnerbait, let the rod take the impact..and yes...it can be done
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