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Old 06-30-08, 10:02 AM   #1
windycitybass
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Default Baitcasters & fishing line

Hi guys.... I'm wondering if you could offer any tips about line selection for baitcasting reels. I am new to baitcasting, and have been experiencing issues with backlash. I was wondering if I should try a new line that may help against this. I have put on Stren original (I believe it's a monofilament, but I'm not certain of that either). Is there something that may be more baitcasting friendly?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 06-30-08, 10:16 AM   #2
Fishnngolfn
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It took me a couple of hours of practicing with my new baitcaster so I didn't backlash. I also had a fishing buddy set it up with the brakes and magnets. I don't know what he did but I can cast it about 35 to 40 yards. I have switched to a braided line and it is a lot easier to cast. I just make sure I keep my thumb on the line to help keep the lure under control. I make sure I stop the line once the lure hits the water. Others here will likely have better suggestions. I was just lucky to have a buddy do all the initial hard setup work for me.
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Old 06-30-08, 11:01 AM   #3
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your thumb is your best friend with your baitcaster, the bright side of braid is it is easier to untangle when you do backlash but even using mono once you get used to it it shouln't be a problem . just set the cast control to it's max and the magnetic brake at it's max as well and back them off as you get more comfortable .
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Old 06-30-08, 12:10 PM   #4
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Stren Original is mono, and one of the best IMO. A braid would also a good choice for baitcasters and I would suggest Suffix Performance braid or Power Pro. Sat away from Fluorocarbon though.

Here's a simple way to get your reel. Tie on your lure. Hold the rod at a 45degree angle from the ground and let the reel free spool (remember to stop the bait before it hits the ground). The bait should take about 5 seconds to get to the ground. If it falls to fast, turn your spool tension (the little knob on the handle side of the reel) up. If it falls too slowly or won't fall turn thespool tension down. Remember when adjusting the spool tension, a very little turn of the knob does a lot. Jo keep adjusting so the lure's fall time is about 5 seconds. And whenever you change lures that are considerably different weight, readjust this.

Next, the brakes. I don't know what reel you have so I don't know which it has. Some reels have both (very few of them), some have centrifugal, and some have magentic. If you have centrifugal brakes then you will have to open the reel up and adjust the little pins. There are normally six of them. If the pin in pushed out, then that brake is on. if the pin is pushed in, it is off. You want to have then symmetrical though. So if set one, you have to set the one across from it the same. so you can have none, two, four, or all six set. to start I'd go with all six, and go down to four when you get comfortable.

Magnetic brakes. I prefer magnetic brakes because they are easy to use. These have a knob on the opposite side as the handle. normally labelled off-10 or min-max. I'd start it at about 80% (7.5 or 8 out of 10) or eyeball it on the ones that say min to max. Most that are numbered have 0ff, .5, 1, 1.5, etc up to 10 and and when you get comfortable move it down a whole number (6 to 5 or 8.5 to 7.5, etc.)

Like stated above, your thumb is your friend. And when beginning using a baitcaster ALWAYS turn the brake up a bit when fishing windy conditions.

BB
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Old 06-30-08, 01:18 PM   #5
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you could also grab a 3/8 oz plug or tie a wieght on and pratice casting in your yard or on the street less pressure for a good cast when it's practice as opposed to being on the water
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Old 06-30-08, 01:26 PM   #6
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Also make sure that you start out casting a lot easier. I mean use a sweeping cast so that the rod loads up and launches the bait rather than a whipping cast. The fast whip type cast causes backlashes for me so when casting far I try to make a smooth cast and don't stop the rod halfway through but have a good follow through and release the line with thumb at the right time. That is for backlashes starting at the beginning of the cast, if you still get them tighten the spool tension knob a little more.
For backlashes at the end of the cast you need to stop the spool from turning before your bait hits the water (hopefully, if it stops by hitting a tree or something it is a guaranteed backlash) with your thumb so that the spool doesn't overrun. These ones are usually easier to get out.
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Old 06-30-08, 01:53 PM   #7
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Start out side arm as well. That way you don't backlash if you were to slam the bait straight down into the water. How many times I have done that? Countless. I side arm cast about 99.9% of the time with my baitcaster.
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Old 06-30-08, 02:07 PM   #8
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god the first couple times i threw a cast sidearm my lure hit the tree next to me and then the water in front of me which lead to a good while of practice casting out in the yard
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Old 06-30-08, 02:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnngolfn View Post
Start out side arm as well. That way you don't backlash if you were to slam the bait straight down into the water. How many times I have done that? Countless. I side arm cast about 99.9% of the time with my baitcaster.

The only problems with this is if you accidently hit the bait on the side of the boat, or something on the shore (if you're shore fishing) while casting, you get an incredibly bad backlash. (i've learned that from experience). I do 95% of my casting overhand, but this ia a personal preference thing like a lot of things in fishing.

BB
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Old 06-30-08, 03:15 PM   #10
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yeah but nothing beats a sidearm cast to skip a spinner were you want it .
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Old 07-01-08, 08:46 PM   #11
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I hope no one takes this opinion personal, but my years of casting, working on and adjusting baitcasters have taught me one important thing.

Your thumb is the worst thing you can put on your spool when casting.

If your bait caster is adjusted properly, then you should be able to side arm cast with your eyes closed absolutly as hard as you can swing your rod and it will never ever get a birds nest.........EVER.

I worked on BCs for many years and many times people would bring them to me complaining of them not casting properly and back lashing.

The first thing I always did was check the magnetic controls and the friction or centrifugal clutches.

Most of the time they were bad out of adjustment........and I could not count the times they tried to tune them and lost the friction insert out from under the spool adjustment knob.

It was almost always out of adjustment.

When you make a cast, your clutches take over as soon as you cast making them push harder against the inside of your spool and the harder you cast, the harder they push against the spool.

This is a fail safe method of slowing your spool down and keeping it from spinning too fast and over riding the speed of your lines ability to unwind off the spool........if your side cap adjustment is set properly.

The problem with the thumb is it causes friction which is not needed to slow your spool if it is adjusted properly.

It also does not allow your clutches inside to work properly because of an outside force slowing the spool down.

The other bad part about thumbs is it interferes with the line coming off the spool freely.

Don't take my word for any of this, do some research or talk to one of the bigger companies that design these reels.

I think they will tell you that if your reel is set right, you don't ever need to slow a spool down with your thumb.

Here is a basic start setting for all bait caster reels.

This is a universal setting that I have used for many years on all models of reels.

Tie a 1/4 oz weight on 10, 12, and 14lb test.

Adjust the weight falling from tip of rod so it falls a few inches and either stops, or it falls very slowly to the floor.

This adjustment can be set on the new reels (super smooth, many ball bearings) so it actually stops or will not fall unless you gently shake the tip.

Now go to the magnetic adjuster...(if yours has one).....set this at 5 for a start. For windy conditions go up to 6. 7. or even 8.

If your reel does not have magnetic controls, then adjust the spool tension cap like above.......slow or no drop of weight.

A common mistake on some used reels is not removing the cap and flipping the spool friction (if brass) insert so it will not have an indentation in it. Most of the newer reels have a hard type insert that does not seem to indent as bad.

After many hours of casting, this part becomes indented by the spool shaft and does not work as good as a new one, therefore not providing the friction needed to slow the spool down.

Take it out and turn it over...........this will make a big diffence in the amount of friction on scew cap needed to slow it down.

After these adjustments........you should be able to go outside.......in the dark and cast side arm as hard as you can and never put your thumb on the spool.........your weight should hit the water/grass and your spool should stop instantly.......no over ride at all.

If it over rides at all.......tighten knob 1/16 turn until it does not at all.

Remember this.......your side cap adjustment is for stopping your spool after it hits the water or providing enough friction so it will stop.

Your magnetic control or clutches are for high speed over ride......meaning your spool will not over ride your lines ability to unwind itself off your spool IF these are set correctly.

Sorry for the long post.
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Old 07-01-08, 09:28 PM   #12
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i've got mine set just right so when it hits the water the spool stops too.. and i just reel it in
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Old 07-01-08, 10:34 PM   #13
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you can cast farther with the brakes set lower and using your thumb.

BB
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Old 07-01-08, 11:03 PM   #14
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very informative robbie. i like that info very much. thanks!!
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Old 07-01-08, 11:24 PM   #15
Robbie R.
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I found out many years ago that casting with the reel adjusted correctly is much easier than to pick at a back lash for 20 minutes.

With the new reels they have designed now days with so many bearings there is no need to do anything except adjust one time and go fishing.

Of course everyone has to use what they are comfortable with and if the thumb helps to make things easier then by all means use it.

The disk flip under the cap is an old trick I learned from my late uncle who was a master knife maker.

It works best on all reels that have metal/copper or brass disk. But I have seen some bad ones indented in some of the newer reels too.........it don't hurt to flip them if you are having trouble tightening the cap enough to help slow it down.
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Old 07-01-08, 11:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbie R. View Post
I found out many years ago that casting with the reel adjusted correctly is much easier than to pick at a back lash for 20 minutes.
you better bet thats right
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Old 07-01-08, 11:37 PM   #17
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Thank you, Robbie. I've always had a bad habit of fiddling around with the adjustments on a BC. I've ended up just free spooling it and controlling every cast with my thumb. Now, I got a good game plan to be a better BC user. Ol' Tiger Woods completely changed his technique many years ago and sought to do it right. With your advise, I'm going to try to do the same thing.

-Pig
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Old 07-02-08, 12:00 AM   #18
Robbie R.
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Try it.

Don't fiddle with the adjustments. there is no need to.

Contact me if I can help in any way.

Another thought, high speed RPMs are hard to stop, that is why over hand casting is dangerous if the lure hits anything close........even the best magnets and clutches can't hardly stop these spools.

Practice under hand cast (front of boat right in front of trolling motor works well for this) so the line goes into an arc with less chance of it hitting the water.

Or the side hand is great.
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Old 07-02-08, 01:43 AM   #19
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Wow Rob great info I'm goin to have to try some of that stuff
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Old 07-02-08, 10:12 AM   #20
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very informative robbie good stuff
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Old 07-02-08, 01:16 PM   #21
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I do want to clarify one thing.

In no way was I meaning to sound negative in any way about anyone who uses a thumb to help control backlash or over runs.

The thumb has been used I imagine ever since bait casters were invented.

The reason I wrote about a little easier (for me) method of using BCs is because I worked on and serviced reels for many years as a side hobby along with knife work/designing and thought that this might help some people who were having some issues with their bait casters.

Since I just got back into fishing after about 12 years off I have read several post where someone was selling their BCs because of backlashing and I often said to myself what a shame because there is a simple solution.

I promise that if the reel is adjusted correctly there will be almost 0 backlashes.........unless you catch a limb or hit something close with your rod or lure.

After many years of the same complaints from many BC users I saw a pattern developing that always pointed to the same problems.

As I said above, the main problems were simple fixes that involved out of adjustment reels.

This is not a 100% backlash free method but for me and many others over the years it fixed 99% of backlash problems by tuning the reels accordingly.

The only thing I have noticed on some of the newer reels without magnets that have clutches, it's best to tighten to side cap spool adjuster so the lure will not fall fast at all.........fine tune this a bit accordingly.

I'll have to admit I have had some doubts about the settings of the plastic clutches being adjusted alternatly.

For those that are brave.........then adjust where every other one is popped out to provide friction on high speed cast. This will work most of the time and you will get a few more feet.........but if you want to cast wide open all day long with a 99% certainty it will not backlash, then leave all plastic clutches in a locked open position and the cap adjusted and you can do this.

Sure, you might lose a few feet casting distance but it's worth it to me instead of having to sit on a pond/lake bank (or boat deck) picking out a backlash and hoping you don't accidently damage your line while doing so...........in the hot baking sun.

I just got done cleaning a pinnacle reel that has 6 bearings and I had to tighten the cap down to where the casting plug would not fall unless shaken a bit.............but I tried for 20 minutes to get that reel to backlash and it simply would not no matter how hard I casted.

I was making some of the wildest most erratic cast you would ever see and EVERY time the plug hit the grass the spool stopped instantly.

And I was getting quite some distance out of these cast.


Again...........for easier casting with almost 0 back lashes.

1. Magnet adjustment set on 5 for starting out.....ease this up for windy conditions.(your line acts as a sail and will bow out therefore pulling line out faster)

2. For older model abu, shimano, etc. reels, check under cap for indentation in brass, copper or metal disk, simply flip it and adjust lure to drop to very slow.

3. for new reels, no magnets, adjust spool cap so lure will drop very slowly. You can check under cap for indentation but most likely it will be a circuit board type material so it dos not dent easily or at all.


Again I am sorry for the long post but things like this takes a while to explain.
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Old 07-02-08, 01:43 PM   #22
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I'm currently teaching my brother how to use a baitcaster and I think that a lot of people can't mentally grasp the key concept of setting up a baitcaster is making the right adjustments so when you hold your rod at 45 degrees that lure falls very very slowly, I think it's a mental block..you look at the lure dropping so slowly that you think to yourself "there's no way that thing's going to cast for crap"...anyone can cast a baitcaster just get it tuned in and you'll love it!

I rarely adjust my magnetic brake, I typically have most of my reels set between 4-5 and if a make a substantial change in weight I will adjust my tension knob only...
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Old 07-02-08, 03:45 PM   #23
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robbie, you may be able to cast as hard as your can and get the same distance with your reel set your way, as someone would with a reel set a bit looser. But after casting for a few hours as hard as you can, you're gonna get tired out. And you are not supposed ot have to cast as hard as you can, casting should be one gentle, fluid movement, almost like a golf swing.

Here's how I set my reels, and I may get a few more minor backlashes than if I set mine reel like you, but I'm 100% positive I could get more distance set up like this than if I set my reel up how you are saying. I know I posted this before, but I'll post it again.

After tying a lure on, I hold the rod at a 45* angle to the ground and let the reel freespool (making sure ot stop the ait before it actually hits the ground). It should take approx. 5 seconds for the bait to reach the ground, a bit longer i you are really tall or using a very long rod. I adjust the spool tension every time I switch a lures that are sugnificantly differnt weights, I'll readjust this.

I set my magnetic brakes to about 5 to start and lower it gradually when I get confident in my thumbing abilities at that level. I've got most my reels at 2.5-5 depending on wind. And I've got one of my cheap reels set to 6. As for centrifugal brakesI start at three set (every other one) and then go down to two when I get confident. I'ldd back up to three or four in windy conditions. My centrifgual brake reel almost always has two brakes on, the other four off. As for my reel with dual brakes, Set both the smae as stated above, and lower as you go. I''ve got mine set to 1-2 on magnetic and two on centrifugal. I turn the magnetic ones up in wind because it is easier.

BB
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Old 07-02-08, 05:46 PM   #24
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well i know absolutely nothing about baitcasting but i do know that on mine, my best friends and my uncles '76 5500c all if you tighten the right one just below snug and the left (on new reels right is the centrifugal or w/e lol brakes left is magnetic) one do the 45* angle thing.. then when it falls slowly enough to when it hits the ground and it stop.. back it down just a little bit and thats my furthest cast yet is set that way.. i can cast it that way and throw it without my thumb and 85% of the time i can just reel it in with no backlash what so ever
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Old 07-03-08, 12:26 AM   #25
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BB, sounds like you have yours set really well.

I don't cast as hard as I can unless I'm tuning the reels to try to make them backlash.

When I'm fishing, it's just smooth easy cast.

The ways I described above works really well so I do encourage anyone who is having backlash problems to at least give it a try.

I don't think distance will ever be a problem or concern after you try it.

On a side note, I just bought a 4601 AB (anti-backlash) from a new member here and can't wait to try it. It's a older model discontinued reel that was NIB with all tools etc. and is supposed to have been a new design intended for never getting a backlsh.

I just had to try it..............
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