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Old 03-14-12, 10:22 PM   #1
joedog
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Default Casting a tube?

Casting a tube from shore.
What do you do?
How do you rig it?
Anyone ever use a BPS vertical drop hook on tubes?
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shop...ct/90034/48471

Know some river smallie fishermen who swear by them. Guess they don't nose dive like texas rigged or other weighted wide gaps. Say they go through and/or over rocks and such better or easier.
I don't know about vegetation.
Remember I'm casting out bringing it back towards shore.
Do you hop it back? Drag it back? Hop and drag. When boat fishing alot of times SM will hit tubes on the fall or drop. So do you big hop it back, kind of hard jerk let it fall type of thing?
I'm not new to tubes but have always considered them more of a boat bait and or for deeper water bait. (15+)
The areas I'm fishing have rock close to shore but sand, dirt, vegation,(soon), not like river fishing more like lake/pond fishing. May consider from bank on river too, lot more small boulder or hand size mix.
I'm not experiencing near as many snag ups as I anticapated but I'm always willing to learn, so teach me.
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Old 03-15-12, 03:05 AM   #2
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Joe I don't know about teaching you anything but I don't associate tubes with a boat/no boat deal. I don't throw a lot of tubes but when I do it's usually shallow to hop around beds or when I'm on a finesse wacky bite and feel like they're wanting something a little meatier but not as meaty as a senko. Sometimes I will use them in place of a finesse jig and work them accordingly. I kinda like them around boat docks if I want to skip something back in the shady corners......*tip*> if you're knocking down spider webs under the dock you're definately " boldly putting bait where no bait has gone before"
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Old 03-15-12, 05:51 AM   #3
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I think that the most common ways of rigging them are on a tube jig head with hook exposed, Texas-rigged, or drop-shot. Normally the drop-shot is done with smaller tubes, such as 2.5". I don't Texas-rig them very often unless I am skipping them under docks or trees. Most all the time I use them on a tube jig head in open water with scattered weeds and rocks. There you can drag it back or hop it. Just try them both to see what the fish want. You can even "stroke" it, lifting high and letting it fall almost like a blade bait. If you are fishing in the weeds a lot of hits can come when you rip it free. You aren't limited to those types of rigging though, try anything you can think of that fits your situation. I think that tubes are probably the #1 smallmouth bait in Michigan, and that is for a good reason.
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Old 03-15-12, 07:32 AM   #4
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Thanks Ken, Bender.
Ya I'm trying to target small mouth.
Ken I can always learn from you, even when I don't want too.
It's just my nature to try anything....well everything is a little more accurate.
I'm trying ways that don't include an exposed hook like a traditional tube jig.
Reason, cover or bottom cover and I hate having to cut and retie everytime I need or want to change tube. Ya I know, lazy. But if I'm going to skip work to fish, it just seems appropiate not to work.
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Old 03-15-12, 07:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joedog View Post
Thanks Ken, Bender.
Ya I'm trying to target small mouth.
Ken I can always learn from you, even when I don't want too.
It's just my nature to try anything....well everything is a little more accurate.
I'm trying ways that don't include an exposed hook like a traditional tube jig.
Reason, cover or bottom cover and I hate having to cut and retie everytime I need or want to change tube. Ya I know, lazy. But if I'm going to skip work to fish, it just seems appropiate not to work.
Joe just tell yourself you've got anal glaucoma....i just can't see my A$$ going to work today!
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Old 03-15-12, 09:42 AM   #6
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They work fine with a belly weight, and used to use them that way, but more often would use a Bobby Garland TR head. They can be rigged anyway you can rig a soft plastic. Weightless, T-rigged, Carolina rigged, drop shot, Belly weighted hook, Jig head, and any other way. When using a belly weighted hook they tend to spiral on the drop even more than they do on a jig head. You can also fish them any number of ways, one real effective way is to swim them with a slight jigging motion with just a very slight flick of the rod tip every foot or two. Tick the tops of the weeds, bounce them off rocks, drag them on the bottom and shake 'em, when you hit rock or some weeds or feel something change in the bottom, stop it let it sit a little bit and then shake it without moving the tube forward. This truly is a bait that you can completely use your imagination for the presentation. Good luck Joe.
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Old 03-15-12, 09:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bender View Post
I think that the most common ways of rigging them are on a tube jig head with hook exposed, Texas-rigged, or drop-shot. Normally the drop-shot is done with smaller tubes, such as 2.5". I don't Texas-rig them very often unless I am skipping them under docks or trees. Most all the time I use them on a tube jig head in open water with scattered weeds and rocks. There you can drag it back or hop it. Just try them both to see what the fish want. You can even "stroke" it, lifting high and letting it fall almost like a blade bait. If you are fishing in the weeds a lot of hits can come when you rip it free. You aren't limited to those types of rigging though, try anything you can think of that fits your situation. I think that tubes are probably the #1 smallmouth bait in Michigan, and that is for a good reason.
Same way here. Tube jig into tube and do what the fish wants. Some want it hopping, others want is on the bottom and be dragged.

As for being lazy and not wanting to re-tie, that's up to you. On a typical tube bite day, I'll go through 30-50 baits (including lead jigs). I tie a lot, but I land a lot of fish. I think any bait that is right on the bottom is going to make you re-tie a lot.
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Old 03-15-12, 11:43 AM   #8
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I like to fish my tubes with these hooks, keeps them weedless, and I like the hook ups with the EWG more than the tube jig heads.

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Old 03-15-12, 11:46 AM   #9
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Thanks all.
And for you Ken....I'm such an A** anything that has the word anal included pretty much fits me.
basstech and Mi, thanks for the input. Mibasser, ya 50 smallmouth and I too would enjoy retieing. I'm not against retieing per say but if I'm retieing 30 times on a no fish day....I'm looking to change lure. I retie even bass fishing after 3 fish, almost always so don't take my lazy attitude to seriously but I'm always looking to simplify. Plus my first year of florocarbon usage was Transition...so you know I've done my share of knot tieing.
Thanks again everyone and I'm still open to your thoughts.

Had to edit because Tavery5 was helping while I was trying to figure out how to spell A**.
Thanks Toney. Good info and great logic.
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Old 03-15-12, 12:05 PM   #10
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The monkey knows.....

I recommend the Venom tube jig heads if you want an open hook. I T-rig them when flipping them in grass.
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Old 03-15-12, 12:20 PM   #11
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I'm glad I opened this thread....I've never really fished a tube before, but I imagine I will need to at Dale Hollow in May.
Smitty, I assume (I know, never ***-u-me) that you run the eye of the hook through the back of the tube then poke it through the tube near the front, then skin hook the hook point on the outside of the tube?
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Old 03-15-12, 12:31 PM   #12
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I fish tubes all the time. The lake I predominately fish is loaded with hydrilla and milfoil, and I find that tubes are excellent as they are very weedless, can fall into holes or pockets in the weeds, and can really catch bass once you fish them out of the weeds into open water.

I rig my tubes with a 3/0 EWG hook and a bass casting sinker like this one:
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shop...t/16668/111545

I first put the sinker into the tub with the round bend of the "stem" facing the head of the tube. I push the sinker all the way up until the round bend is flush up against the head. Then, I insert the hook into the middle of the head and run the point of the hook through the eye of the "stem", then out the side and continue to rig it texposed.

The key that I have found is that different manufacturers of those sinkers have different lengths of the "stem" as it goes from the eye to the sinker itself. The farther the weight is from the head of the tube, the larger the spiral of the tube as it falls. Therefore, in the warmer months when bass seem to be more aggressive, i try to get the weight of the sinker farther from the head of the tube, thus producing a much larger spiral on the fall. In cooler water, i try to get the weight closer to the head of the tube, which produces a much tighter spiral. I typically use a 1/8 oz. sinker, and will occasionally go to 3/16 if needed, but seldom do i go heavier than this. I also prefer 4" tubes, as they seem to fit a 3/0 hook perfectly. There is also a hook Shaw Grigsby designed for Eagle Claw that has a keeper built into the hook, which works phenominally for keeping the tube from sliding down the hook.

Anyway, I can't take credit for this, I watched an online video (which has proven ridiculously hard to find now) that showed Shaw rigging a tube in this fashion, and it was a huge help. You can also find Mike Iaconelli talking about fishing tubes like this on his website, if you sift through all of the videos he has posted.

Anyway, hope this helps. You can fish the tube in several manners when rigged this way, but it is the best way I have found to rig them and it's probably my #1 confidence bait on a regular basis.
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Old 03-15-12, 12:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiBoy View Post
I'm glad I opened this thread....I've never really fished a tube before, but I imagine I will need to at Dale Hollow in May.
Smitty, I assume (I know, never ***-u-me) that you run the eye of the hook through the back of the tube then poke it through the tube near the front, then skin hook the hook point on the outside of the tube?
With the Venom hook I don't skin hook it. It's not a weedless design but because of the angle of the eye and the design of the hook when you retrieve the bait the hook point is pointing down and not horizontally. This reduces hang ups....not all but is much better than regular jig heads.

The Venom hook works very well with my 4" Goliath tubes.
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Old 03-16-12, 06:00 AM   #14
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joedog, if you are really trying to save time you can rig the tubes up first and tie a 2-3' leader to them with a loop at the top. Then you could use a snap to change then out quickly. I'm not sure about the water you fish, but here I only use 2, maybe 3 different colors so retying is only from damage to the line or break-offs.
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Old 03-16-12, 06:29 AM   #15
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Really good input everyone, thanks for some great ideas!
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Old 03-16-12, 08:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bender View Post
I think that the most common ways of rigging them are on a tube jig head with hook exposed, Texas-rigged, or drop-shot. Normally the drop-shot is done with smaller tubes, such as 2.5". I don't Texas-rig them very often unless I am skipping them under docks or trees. Most all the time I use them on a tube jig head in open water with scattered weeds and rocks. There you can drag it back or hop it. Just try them both to see what the fish want. You can even "stroke" it, lifting high and letting it fall almost like a blade bait. If you are fishing in the weeds a lot of hits can come when you rip it free. You aren't limited to those types of rigging though, try anything you can think of that fits your situation. I think that tubes are probably the #1 smallmouth bait in Michigan, and that is for a good reason.
Couldn't have said it much better myself. But don't think that tubes with an internal jighead are just for smallies. It is slowly becoming my number one LM bait as well. A tube is so versatile that it is becoming an everywhere bait for me. In fact a tube with a 3/8 rattling head put about 40 LM in the boat for us yesterday, out of 18-30 feet of water. The same tube head and color also worked phenominal for us for smallies last year and had a 22+ bag out of 5-7 feet of water on the same 3/8 head.

Here is the tube head I mainly use when fishing deep(and sometimes shallow) water. For any of you tube guys, you have to check it out. It is called a goby glider head. It has a 0* eye which comes straight out the front of the tube. It give it a rocking action when reeling it in, just like a crankbait. It is deadly on the smallies. http://www.economicalbassbaits.com/a...s/show/2197663

Ryan

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Old 03-16-12, 07:09 PM   #17
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rrw3258 I think I'm going to be getting some of those. I like the idea of the action bringing it back. Ya I'm thinking that may just work in a few spots I fish.
So what color and brand of tube you using?
Ya got me nibbling!
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Old 03-16-12, 07:18 PM   #18
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I usually just T-rig them. Like several others I don't throw them that much, but they do work.

Another way to rig them is to insert a bell sinker in it, then T-rig it passing the hook through the loop on the sinker. Eliminates the external bullet sinker.
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Old 03-17-12, 11:16 AM   #19
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One good thing to always remember is that the bass don't read the books! If a magazine says use them in deep clear water for example, that dons't mean you can cast them in lily pads. If a bass sees something it thinks is food, it'll eat it whether it's where the books say it's good or not. Tubes in particalar are one of those really versatile baits in bass fishing. Cast in weeds, over rods, flip em, use em like a jerk bait, plug the end use twitch it on top. No wrong way to use em. And yeah, I've used keel weighted hooks like that for tubes and craw baits like the Yun craw bug. Never used em for rivers though, the hook is way to big for the small 3" tubes I use.

Oh yeah, and bass don't care is you're standing on a boat or shore when it sees your tube. It wont say, "well he's not on a boat, so I don't think I'll eat that."
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