Looking for a sensitive rod

[Fishnngolfn]

I am in the market for a sensitive spinning rod to replace my fenwick rod that broke on Saturday. Note: remove rods yourself from the car when lowering the top in the convertible and don't rely on a friend to do it.

I will use the rod strickly for throwing weightless t-rigged plastics. The spinning reel is an Abu Garcia Cardinal. I would like something that is light and very sensitive with some action. I will keep braid as the main line with a possibility of using fluoro or mono leaders for those clear water situations. Also is there a certain brand of rods that has guides that are more durable when using braid.

What would you guys suggest? Right now I want to keep in under $50 but if I wait a few months I could go up to $100.

[Jim80]

if you want to keep it under $50 i would go with a lighting rod or a cherrywood rod from berkely jmo though

[Fishnngolfn]

Should I go with a medium light, medium, or medium heavy for throwing weightless plastics?

[zooker]

Originally Posted by Jim80

if you want to keep it under $50 i would go with a lighting rod or a cherrywood rod from berkely jmo though

going from a fenwick to a lightin rod would be like goin from a ball bat to a telophone pole..

zooker

[Jim80]

Originally Posted by zooker

going from a fenwick to a lightin rod would be like goin from a ball bat to a telophone pole..

zooker

I'm not saying it would be an upgrade just working in a price range . And f&g for the plastics I would go medium/heavy .

[bamabassman]

i agree with ol zooker there. not a ligthing rod, but i got a cherrywood that pretty good. come in light action too. under 40 bucks. check it out at good ol wally world.

[BassMaster_17]

Originally Posted by zooker

going from a fenwick to a lightin rod would be like goin from a ball bat to a telophone pole..

zooker

As far as the Lightning rod spinning rods i dont know for sure but they cant be far off the casting Lightning Rods. The casting Rods for under $50 that compare to 200$ rods, they are all i use & i have Custom rods and high $ rods in the garage rack as emergency SPARES. They are Light, very sensitive, more backbone than you will ever need bass fishing, and light on the pocketbook. I doubt that i would fish or will fish with any other rod even if i made a living on the elite series. I just cant see spending over $40-$50 on a rod when these are availible, + i would much rather spend $35 and not like a rod than $100-300 and be devistated. Just my opinion if its worth anything.

[bamabassman]

i have 3 ligthing rods myself. but if you want a lighter, more sensitive rod. try a cherrywood. i love the ligthing rods myself.

[Lancer6]

Originally Posted by Fishnngolfn

Should I go with a medium light, medium, or medium heavy for throwing weightless plastics?

FnG,

The best rods for tossing weightless plastics are rods with substantial backbone paired with very fast tips. There are two that come to mind that will amaze you by their performance when casting weightless worms, Senko-types, and grubs on light jigheads. I have both and I can vouch for them wholeheartedly. They are:

The Falcon Lowrider 5-167 "Clark Wendlandt" Weightless Worm model (Spinning Model) That's a 100-110 buck rod, or just a tad over. I toss my 4" Senko-types on this one, as well as weightless worms and small grubs. I also have one in the casting version and use it for the same applications...a great Xmas gift from a fellow basser! Paired with a Shimano Chronarch 50MG it's delight to use.

The St.Croix Avid AS68MXF (amazing rod) for about 160-170 bux.
(I love this one for 5" Senko-types, 7" and up weightless worms, slightly heavier grubs...to 3/16-1/4 oz.)

Be advised that neither the Lightning Rod NOR the Cherrypopper will come anywhere NEAR the performance standards the Lowrider or the Avid attain.
Please, save up and get the RIGHT tool for the technique. Settling for third best will only put you further from excellence.

Spinning reels for the two recommended rods: NO LARGER than a 2000-2500-size and the lightest one you can find, consistent with high quality.
Line: I use only #20 braid with a 6' PURE fluoro leader, attached via the &%^^%#!~! DuPont Stren J-Knot. The leader material is P-Line CFX Leader Material...only.
Why braid? Loner casts. No coiling. Less likely to form loose loops on the spool due to twisting or jerky retrieves. More sensitive. Stronger for it's diameter. Better behaved on smaller diameter spools.

Agree? Good!

Lancer6

[Fishnngolfn]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. But after thinking about it over the weekend, I think I will save up and spend a bit more money since this is going to be my primary rod/reel setup. I might as well get a nice setup that is geared for the way I fish 95% of the time.
I like Lancer's suggestion about the Falcon rod since it is a little nicer but not too overboard with the price. But I am still a little confused about the reel that would go with that rod.

[lowrider]

i've talked about these on other threads http://www.broutlawrods.com/home.html but i'll throw it out here too. VERY impressed with the 2 i have !! they make one that'll fit your needs, i know they are a litte more thatn you first wanted to spend but they are worth the price. plus, with the warranty he gives, that one you broke could be replaced for $50 no questions asked.

[Fish2win]

I have 2 prized spinning rods that both my boys know that touching them is punishable by death. Both are very sensitive. Ironically one is a Fenwick the other a Lomis Bronzeback. I preferr the Fenwick. Fish2win

[Lancer6]

FnG,

I'll address the question you addressed in a PM here in open forum as it may benefit some other folks.
OK, here 'tis...Most spinning reels are "classed" by size, usually spool diameter being the common denominator. Most reels have a numerical designation based on a single digit but always expressed by the addition of at least one "0" (Zero). So, whether a particular spinning reel is called a SuperBassYanker 20 or a BestBassBasher 2000 the approximate size and capacity is the roughly the same. The higher the leading number, the larger the reel.
In my opinion, based on many, many hours of actual on-the-water experience, the best reel for the L'Rider 5-167 spinning rod is one in the "2" class; 20...200...2000...or a 2500. This size will offer the best balance of line capacity, rod/reel balance, and sufficient drag power to get the job done.
Remember that with ANY type of rod/reel combo, including casting, weight is your enemy. Weight increases fatigue, wrist strain, hand cramps, and reduces sensitivity, NO MATTER WHAT ANYONE ELSE SEZ!!!
Even Quantum finally got their heads outta their fundaments and have introduced less-obese casting reels. Shimano has learned the hard way that replacing the old green 'Rados with the fat-Alpha Sierra Sierra 200D series was a major mistake. Now, they've brought out a new green reel that is far lighter. If anyone cares to argue the my assertion re the D series I have one reminder...Rebate! Anything to peddle those fatsos. (The 100D, though overpriced, IS exempt from the weight criticism, but why spend 200 bux on a nearly 8 oz. reel when 250.00 will buy you a Chronarch 50MG that weighs under SIX oz.?)
Where was I...... Oh, yeah.
In your PM you asked for recommendations for a reel well-matched to the L'rider 5-167. Welllll, if affordable, I think the Shimano "Saros F" in the 2500 size would be a great match.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...001000_100-1-2
It's very light when compared to others in the "2" class and has great and proven features. It's priced at 129.99. It's MY next spinning reel if I can win the Lotto. (It'll look nice on the deck of a new Champion 210 Elite or BassCat Puma!)
If that's a few bux over the rainbow, then the Quantum Kinetic KT20PT1-A is an OK choice at 89.95. It weighs a tad over 11 ozzies, and that's not so bad.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...001000_100-1-2
I've used the 2000 and 3000 size 'Tums for several years and they've served me well. Still, I gots de hots for maybe three of dem Saros reels, one 3000 and two in size 2500 (Hear dat, Santa?)
As I stated in my PM to you; Use #20 Hi-vis yellow or orange braid with a P-Line CFX pure fluoro leader of about 6' and you'll be in business. The braid will give you better casting, greater sensitivity, less aggravation, and better hooksets. It's also cheaper in the long run, by far.The leader can be retied down to about a foot before you need to replace it. And...use the &^%$##! J-Knot.
Does that cover it, FnG?
Go get 'em and be safe.

Lancer6

[Fishnngolfn]

As always, Lancer, your posts are easy to read and chalked full of information. I think I have my big Santa gift lined up for this Christmas. That Shimano looks nice but I am still gonna be gunshy when it comes time to drop the dough on a nice setup. Needless to say, I will not be keeping whatever setup I get in the car. I just have store the two piece ugly stick for those spontaneous "oh look, there is a pond on the side of the road" moments. The Abu Garcia will fit the Ugly Stick nicely but it is going to be one heavy setup.

[Fishnngolfn]

Originally Posted by Lancer6

FnG,
And...use the &^%$##! J-Knot.

I have never seen that knot before. Does anyone have a link for that knot?
I didn't see it on these sites:
http://www.animatedknots.com/
or
http://www.netknots.com/html/fishing_knots.html

[Lancer6]

Here,

http://www.worldseafishing.com/tackl...d_to_mono.html

Be certain to practice on some old mono and braid since you'll lose a few inches of each when you trim the ends. I hold the braid end between thumb and forefinger then burn it a bit...forms a tiny ball and leave no more than perhaps 1/4 inch. I trim the fluoro the same then apply a TINY drop of superglue to the knot, sometimes rubbing it into the knot.
You want to wet the knot with saliva as you tighten down and alternately pull on the tags ends of the braid and leader as well as the standing lines as you tighten so that it tightens down evenly.
Practice, Practice, Practice!

L6

[Fishnngolfn]

Holy crud. That looks like fun with a 6' leader. Does this stand up better then the double uni knot? I can tie that one and that is what I use when tying mono to braid when I use mono as a backing so the braid doesn't slip on a spinning reel.

[zooker]

Originally Posted by Fish2win

I have 2 prized spinning rods that both my boys know that touching them is punishable by death. Both are very sensitive. Ironically one is a Fenwick the other a Lomis Bronzeback. I preferr the Fenwick. Fish2win

lol now i know i am not alone..

zooker

[Bmuskin]

How about some of the retipped rods I see on Ebay? How do they work?

[Captmikestarrett]

Originally Posted by Bmuskin

How about some of the retipped rods I see on Ebay? How do they work?

Ebay has become a scam. You bid on an item and next thing you know somebody outbid you. An e**7 or f**8 user has upped the price. Now check out the bidder and you will see that he has 129 bids on the same seller. Odd you say since it is the seller with a bogus account driving the price up.

No, stay away from ebay unless you BUY NOW.

Capt Mike

[JB]

mike
i noticed that too on ebay, these last months i sold a boat, a harley, guitar, and tried to sell a chevelle. Each time the first 8 bids were made by buyers that kept jackin the price up but once the first day of bids were done, so were they.
I even caughta 50 cent look alike tryin to bid up a car I have on this week..

link to ebay item click here

[Captmikestarrett]

Nice stockings BTW. Victorias Secret I suppose.

Capt Mike

[JB]

i just knew you'd notice that cap'n

[Bmuskin]

Yeah that is the bad thing about ebay. I know there are some schill bidders that run up price. register your dog and let him run up your auction. Even with that in mind I have seen some really nice rods in Springfiels at the BPS clearecnce center. plus we have a return damaged goods center for cabelas. I have seen some good broken tip rods. I know I can replace these but does it hurt the action or ruin the overall rod if there is a few inches broken?

[JB]

nope not at all, i have one that broke on me this spring and i've been using it all summer, no problemo