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Old 05-19-11, 12:23 PM   #1
Top Tiger
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Default Ficht ECM

Just recently purchased a 2001 Evinrude 200. The dealership that rigged it for me said that the tach was bad. I ordered and installed the new tach, still no RPM reading. all the self check items work fine. I then took it to my local Evinrude dealer, thinking that it's probably the rectifier. the mech. put the computer on it , tells me that the engine has 372 hrs on it and is charging fine but that the control module is not sending to the tach. everything else appears to be in order. My question is, seeing as how new ecm's cost more than I want to afford right now, will running it like it is for now booger up my o/b?
Any input would be appreciated.
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Old 05-19-11, 12:45 PM   #2
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Personally, I wouldn't run a boat without a working RPM gauge. I like to watch my RPM's carefully especially if you are playing around with a jackplate. If this is a new motor I would really want an RPM so I could get myself adjusted to the "sweet spot" of the engine and after a while you won't even look at your RPM gauge as you will get accustomed to how your engine responds just from the sound.
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Old 05-19-11, 02:44 PM   #3
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If you just purchased it should be under warranty even used,most give 30 days,more if one pays for it.
And not a good idea to run without knowing rpms,ficht are picky about what oil is used as well.
I love OMC but not crazy about ficht.
Once rpms are known with a certain prop and setback then wont really be needed,just glancing at it every now and then but for a proper setup absolute,for rpms as well as psi.Dealer may have put a prop on it that isnt tall enough and hit rev limiter,or limiter may not work as well.
Your mechanic can sometimes borrow another lead off same,as still charging.

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Old 05-19-11, 03:48 PM   #4
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When I bought the motor ( Yamaha dealer) I was told that the tach was bad. No local Evinrude dealer so by the time new tach had arrived and got to the water, the 30 day warranty had expired. I have a Ranger 373V w/ hydraulic jackplate.
O/B came with 22" Raker, made a lot o froth behind the boat. I've swapped to a 4 blade 14-1/4x25 Turbo. hopefully, I can get across the lake with that without too much trouble. Wish I knew more about computers
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Old 05-19-11, 09:08 PM   #5
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I had a 373 v with a 150 gt,turned a 24 P raker to 5800 with a 10 in rite hite jp,with my 200 xp ran a 27 p shooter reworked or a tro4 27 p was on a 22 ft jaguar built like a gambler.
22 was way to low 25 about average its what a dealer would put on one but a renegade generally.Its not a speed hull so turbos,ot4 etc arnt generally used to fullest extent,due to weight ,pad and gearcase if stock,a bobs lower will let you run it higher,the hull however has limitations as to how high,while you cannot sink it,does not run well in waves over 2 1/2 ft.
Should be able to take the leads that go to the battery and tap in or use on a temp basis just to find actual rpms,if its still charging .Also make sure the poles on tach are set correct.
I put mine on ky lake 4 years ago first trip out convinced me to trade up in length and speed.But was a great boat for ohio lakes and the ohio river.
Ps when sold my 1985 still had original motor(over 1000 hrs) no rebuild and came from greens in nc.
Mine was rated for a 175hp,but the 150-175-200 all share same block and weigh the same.
Whale tail also helps the planing.I manually mix my oil in all my older omc as auto oiler will fail over 60.often.

Last edited by lilmule; 05-19-11 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 05-25-11, 08:19 PM   #6
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Here is what I found to troubleshoot your issue.

With the engine at idle check for 13.5 volts or close to that at the battery.

If you get 12.5 or less even at higher rev then you have a rectifier issue.

Look for the ground wire to the ECM or stator. Should have a star washer and screwed right to the block. Remove it clean it and wire brush it and the block and check for 13.5 ish volts at battery.

If still not working then it is a stator or ECM replacement.. 50/50 chance of getting it right from what I read.

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Old 05-27-11, 10:06 PM   #7
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You should be able to wire an after market tach straight to the engine bypassing the ecm. Should be cheaper than an ecm. Rpm's are important to watch, water temp /pressure and tilt trim also. You can get by on everything else.
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Old 05-28-11, 09:17 AM   #8
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According to mechanic an aftermarket tach won't work on this motor. Something to do with the electronics. I thought of an aftermarket tach, hell, I could take the induction pickup from a timing light and put to the #1 plug wire. As I said, everything else works fine. Since I don't have $1800.00 for a new ecm I guess I'll run it without a tach. Major pain in the north side.
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Old 05-28-11, 02:22 PM   #9
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I would talk to a different mechanic. There should be at least 3 places you can connect to to get RPM s and unless your messing around inside the ecm module or disconnect one of those connections it won't effect the ecm. Kind of "basic electronics" there. You could check out Scream and fly's forums also. Mostly racers and speed boat guys there, they know their stuff on those forums and are usually happy to help.
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Old 05-28-11, 03:27 PM   #10
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Seems to me that there should be other spots to connect a tach, too. Who are Scream and fly? If I have to, I'll run it without a tach. The Evinrude shop in Black Mountain says that it won't hurt a thing. The big thing that upsets me is that after 3 different shops I have 3 different diagnoses. Seems that someone is in the wrong profession or someone is being less than forthcoming with the truth.
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Old 05-29-11, 08:04 AM   #11
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Well three different opinions,each possibly correct.No no problem with running without a tach providing it is in rpm range and no problems to diagnose.
Original wiring for the motor would have a 4 alarm system,and tach would also give warnings or clues via extra sensors as well over any aftermarket one.
Would an aftermarket work yes in partiality,some with rpm glitches in certain ranges.
On older omc there is a second yellow grey wire one can borrow and attach a three wire tach harness,but that motor has boo coos of sensors on it havnt a clue as to how they would be effected and most mechanics wouldnt either as dont generally double up wiring on motors no longer produced,that are supposidly sensative with said aforementioned electronics.
As a general rule of thumb I avoid Ficht run any other omc but,considered to be the nail in the coffin for omc as to why its a canuck motor nowdays.
Newer or later omc controls will work,that motor however has alarms etc that arnt on others and many mech woulndnt want to monkey off the normal path.
One of the many reasons they sit for sale and few buyers and generally a grand cheaper or so than another 200 hp or same amount of hp.Doubt if a rebuild company would warranty unless they put it on themselves.
Scream n fly is another forum devoted to racing,hopups,setups,with enough money and it all costs one can have that motor doing 8k,turning torque off the chart and being rebuilt every 200 hrs,for about 1,000 per mile per hr gained
Everything one does with that motor effects its operation and length thereof.
Having lost my good 200 hp and finding they arnt cheap replaced mine with an old 77 model 140 just to get back out,all backwards compatible and all gauges worked.
Can one run without psi,rpms or alarms yes,is it a good idea no.
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Old 06-02-11, 06:22 AM   #12
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Went yesterday, no tach. I'm out of money and patience with this o/b. Got the new prop on. 71 mph according to the gps. Still had throttle left so I didn't over rev it. Plenty fast for me. No tach but I like my boat again. Anybody ever deal with DFI Technologies? They overhaul ecm units.
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