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Old 12-16-08, 12:57 AM   #1
TravisRush
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Default Crankbait Rods and versatility

I always hear about how some prefer to use MH for deep cranks compared to a M rod, or how a fiberglass rod is better for cranks, and how a M rod works just fine for shallow cranks.

Now, is it possible to find a "perfect" crankbait rod? In this, I mean that it will be able to throw the deep ones as well as everything above. Can a rod meant for deep cranks work efficiently for shallow cranks? I was wondering, since it'd tougher to throw the deep ones with a M rod, if a rod mean for deep cranks will work well for shallow too?

I apologize if this is confusing, as I confused myself somehow...
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Old 12-16-08, 09:19 AM   #2
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I have two crankbait rods. I always buy the ones that are crankin specific. Some people might disagree though. Thats just what I do. There will be alot of good advice on here.
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Old 12-16-08, 10:53 AM   #3
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Travis I just recently bought a Kistler Magnesium Crank bait rod and I love it! And what you want to spend is another big question and deciding factor as to what to get. The Kistler is a great rod and the company stands behind what they sell. The Kistler Magnesium crankbait rod is $179 and well worht the money just my .02
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Old 12-16-08, 02:01 PM   #4
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Thank you guys!

My main queston was, as I thought about it last night:
While a "shallow crank" rod doesn't work for deep water, does a "deep crank" rod work for shallow water?
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Old 12-16-08, 02:33 PM   #5
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It´s matter of action ( where the rod bends ), not about power ( how much energy is required to bend the rod ). Crankbait rods are designed to bend a lot more further down on the blank than other rods designed for other purposes. Glass, graphite or blend crankbait specific rods bend pretty much the same way and behave pretty much in the same way.

So a crankbait rod´s power should be ideally chosen for the density of cover and not by the intended depth of the crankbait, if where you fish there´s a lot of cover and you are planning to fish crankbaits your rod should be adequate for such conditions of cover density, more cover more power the rod should have because more cover means you´ll need to adjust by increasing the test of your line.
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Old 12-16-08, 03:57 PM   #6
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So a general rod deemed "crankbait rod" will work for both deep and shallow cranks?
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Old 12-16-08, 04:10 PM   #7
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I haven't found one rod that will do equally well for all cranking conditions. While it is true vegatation will play a role in the rod power selected for that application, I think depth also has a similiar effect. Bigger lures with deep diving lips put a lot of stress on the lighter power rods, leaving little in the rod blank to set hooks or haul a large fish from deep water. Cold water also (it's denser) affects the action of the lure again stressing a lighter power rod. Bare minimum I think you need two - 1 Med and 1 MH between 6'6" and 7'. I prefer composite rods over graphite or straight glass, with a moderate rather than a fast action. It's a matter of preference, and you can compensate for a fast actioned rod by going down a power rating, but I prefer not to do that. I do know guys that throw crankbaits on ML fast actioned graphite rods with braid - and it works for them. I wouldn't even think of doing that, but not everyone likes fishing the same way.
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Old 12-16-08, 04:45 PM   #8
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TRAVIS,
I do not worry about rods quite as much as I do reels. I use 7 ft. Med action rods for crankbaits, but use a 3:8 to 1 or a 5:2 to 1 reel, both equiped with a larger handle to make the big billed deep diving cranks easier to crank. Using a 6:3 or 7:1 to 1 reel with a standard length handle on a DD-22 will wear your a$$ out in short order.
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Old 12-16-08, 07:29 PM   #9
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For my deep diving crankbaits: Rapala DT10 & DT16s, & a Norman DD22, I use a Falcon 7' cranking rod M action 12-25 line test, 1/4-1/2 oz lures. I couple this rod with a Daiwa TDA 150A BC reel with a 5-1 to 1 gear ratio spooled with 30 lb Sufix braid. Yes braid, with a 12 lb mono leader. I can cast those deep diving cranks a mile and work them along the bottom. The rod is extremely sensitive, yet with the M action and parabolic action of the rod, the excess vibration has been all but eliminated, making deep cranking a lot more comfortable on my wrist. But this setup just doesn't cut it for shallow cranks.

My shallow cranking is mostly done with Manns-1 and Rapala DT-4s. For those light wt cranks I use a 6'6" Med action rod with a fast tip. Since I fish out of a rowboat, I only bring 7 setups max. My shallow cranking setup has to be capable of multi-tasking. To this effect I gone with a spinning reel setup. My reel of choice is a Daiwa Capricorn 2500 spooled with 10 lb Power Pro and a 8 lb mono leader.
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Old 12-16-08, 08:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassboogieman View Post
I haven't found one rod that will do equally well for all cranking conditions. While it is true vegatation will play a role in the rod power selected for that application, I think depth also has a similiar effect. Bigger lures with deep diving lips put a lot of stress on the lighter power rods, leaving little in the rod blank to set hooks or haul a large fish from deep water. Cold water also (it's denser) affects the action of the lure again stressing a lighter power rod. Bare minimum I think you need two - 1 Med and 1 MH between 6'6" and 7'. I prefer composite rods over graphite or straight glass, with a moderate rather than a fast action. It's a matter of preference, and you can compensate for a fast actioned rod by going down a power rating, but I prefer not to do that. I do know guys that throw crankbaits on ML fast actioned graphite rods with braid - and it works for them. I wouldn't even think of doing that, but not everyone likes fishing the same way.

i agree

i use 6 differant rods. 3 differant types of reels.. 3 differant line test..


though this picture was taken a while ago..

left to right..
on the jerk bait rod a 6 foot fenwick graphite "busted" mid hande mh. i use 15 pound ande mono reel is a 6.3:1-trion or okuma-

on the lipless rod 7 ' medium fenwick rod i use 15 pound ande mono. reel is the 6.3:1 torno or okuma.

the shallow rod 7 foot medium action-lews speed stick- again 15 pound ande mono reel is a 5.1:1 quantum-silver- mag gear..

the mid runner is a 7 foot mh action -lews speed stick- 12 pound ande mono reel is a 5.1:1 quantum -silver- mag gear..

the deep rod is an old 7' shimano medium heavy action glass stick.10 pound ande mono reel is a 5.1:1 quantum -bronze- mag gear..-this set up has been retired-

the go deep and stay there rod is a 7 foot mh fritts glass rod 10 pound ande mono on either a fritts 4.7:1 reel or a new aquire 3.8:1 quantum -gold- mag gear..the 35 year old abu pictured went off to the abu grave yard..

the deep runner has been replaced by a 7 foot mh fritts rod same line with a 5.1:1 quantum-silver- mag gear..


those of you that aint figured it out yet i own about 30 old quatum mag gears.. the quantum gold was a pleasent suprise never used... till i got it that is.

if ya think a dd22 honks on a rod you definatly have not chunked a lucky craft d-20 this is the reason i use the 3.8:1 reel..

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Last edited by zooker; 12-17-08 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 12-16-08, 10:52 PM   #11
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Will a MH work for shallow and mid-depth cranks?

Zook, that Speed Trap is my favorite color...don't be showin people!
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Old 12-17-08, 01:38 AM   #12
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zooker, those 3 quantum reels pictured, is it 1310mgc? If so, how does it perform with DD22? I'm guessing it won't cast far due to the size of spool?

Never heard of a new "aquire" quantum. Typo?
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Old 12-17-08, 06:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisRush View Post
Will a MH work for shallow and mid-depth cranks?

Zook, that Speed Trap is my favorite color...don't be showin people!
yeah it will work but you will lose fish if it is a really fast action rod..remember the mh has more back bone than a medium and you tend to hoss the fish more which pulls hooks loose..

thats not a speed trap that is a bugs island short fish eliminator..






Quote:
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zooker, those 3 quantum reels pictured, is it 1310mgc? If so, how does it perform with DD22? I'm guessing it won't cast far due to the size of spool?

Never heard of a new "aquire" quantum. Typo?

only one of the quantum's 1310's is a mgc.the "bronze" one. the original mag gear was a 310mg "silver" in the 80's they changed them to a 1310 mg "silver" around early 90 they came out with 3 kinds of 1310 a "gold" geared 3.8:1 the 5.1 "silver" and the 6.2:1 "bronze" by mid 90's the bronze and the gold were both no longer made..

in early 2000-01 they REALLY screwed up and took an icon the 1310 mg "silver" which remained unchanged for 40+ years took 1/2 the metal out of the reel and replaced with plastic parts they also brought back the "bronze" color..i think 05 was the last time i seen a a "new bronze" 1310mgc for sale..the new "bronze" 1310's break if you look at them funny.. i have enough-50+- old 1310mg "silvers" to gut the new bronze and re-build from GOOD parts..

now for the aquired quantum 1310 "gold" it was new in the box it is an early 92 model. the "gold" is a revamped 441 quantum. the greatest cranking reel quantum ever made..

as for line capacity mag gears are known to hold more then most reels on the market.. i average 150 yards of 12 pound ande mono..

a dd22 is lighter than my obease lucky craft d-20's and i can make 70-75 yard cast with them reels..


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Old 12-17-08, 07:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zooker View Post
now for the aquired quantum 1310 "gold" it was new in the box it is an early 92 model. the "gold" is a revamped 441 quantum. the greatest cranking reel quantum ever made..zooker
Yeah I do recall 3 of reels in basspro catalog in my younger days and used to have 2 of 3, silver and bronze ones. Never had a 441. Isn't that the one with "Pitchin' Reel" label on the sideplate? Edit: did some research, 381 is "Crankin Reel" That's the one your talking about?

Good info. Thanks.
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Old 12-18-08, 12:43 AM   #15
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Third rod from the left
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Old 12-18-08, 06:43 PM   #16
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nope mg there is one mgc that one is the second from the right..

bandit

you mean like this one..

a 441 quantum flippin reel..



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