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Old 07-04-08, 12:29 AM   #26
stevomac59
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CAJUN REDLINE... the smoothest line ever!(well that I have experienced) as for the reel..ABU GARCIA Revo

-stevo
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Old 07-07-08, 01:39 AM   #27
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The Abu AB reels were a bad idea. The mechanism does prevent backlashes, but it also has a tendency to stop a lure before it has reached its target and without warning. Its better just adjusting a reel well than using the Abu Anti-Backlash mechanism, which was just one of those things that worked but caused more problems than it solved.
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Old 07-07-08, 10:52 AM   #28
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Here is my reel. Sorry for the questions but I can't get it right and I am about to give my reel away.

pic 1


pic 2


Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbie R. View Post
Here is a basic start setting for all bait caster reels.

This is a universal setting that I have used for many years on all models of reels.

Tie a 1/4 oz weight on 10, 12, and 14lb test.

Adjust the weight falling from tip of rod so it falls a few inches and either stops, or it falls very slowly to the floor.

This adjustment can be set on the new reels (super smooth, many ball bearings) so it actually stops or will not fall unless you gently shake the tip.
What knob to you adjust to have the 1/4 oz weight slowly fall or stop? Is this the knob next to the reel and drag star in pic 1?

Quote:
Now go to the magnetic adjuster...(if yours has one).....set this at 5 for a start. For windy conditions go up to 6. 7. or even 8.

If your reel does not have magnetic controls, then adjust the spool tension cap like above.......slow or no drop of weight.
I think mine does have a magnetic control. Is this the switch in the second picture?

Quote:
A common mistake on some used reels is not removing the cap and flipping the spool friction (if brass) insert so it will not have an indentation in it. Most of the newer reels have a hard type insert that does not seem to indent as bad.

After many hours of casting, this part becomes indented by the spool shaft and does not work as good as a new one, therefore not providing the friction needed to slow the spool down.

Take it out and turn it over...........this will make a big diffence in the amount of friction on scew cap needed to slow it down.
What cap and how do you take it off?

Quote:
After these adjustments........you should be able to go outside.......in the dark and cast side arm as hard as you can and never put your thumb on the spool.........your weight should hit the water/grass and your spool should stop instantly.......no over ride at all.

If it over rides at all.......tighten knob 1/16 turn until it does not at all.
What side cap?



Sorry for the questions but I am having a very difficult time following your instructions since I don't know what the names of the knobs on the reel are. I wish it came with instructions. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Also, once it is set, do I have to do this everytime I change out a different weighted lure?
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Old 07-07-08, 11:31 AM   #29
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sorry, double posted, sort of. But I fixed this mixed up mess.

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Old 07-07-08, 11:39 AM   #30
Fishnngolfn
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I have tried this but the reel doesn't stop when the lure hits the water or grass when I am practicing. If the reel is still turning after it hits the water, Robbie mentioned to tighten the knob 1/16 until it doesn't do that any more. Is he talking about the knob next to the reel? And what is that knob called exactly?
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Old 07-07-08, 11:40 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnngolfn View Post
Here is my reel. Sorry for the questions but I can't get it right and I am about to give my reel away.

pic 1


pic 2




What knob to you adjust to have the 1/4 oz weight slowly fall or stop? Is this the knob next to the reel and drag star in pic 1?

Yes, it is the little dime sized knob behind the handle and drag star.



I think mine does have a magnetic control. Is this the switch in the second picture?

Yes it is magnetic, and yes that is the switch. a lot of them are numbered 0 (or off) to 10. for yours, just set it in the middle for the equivalent to '5'


What cap and how do you take it off?

You shouldn't have ot worry about this with a new reel.



What side cap?

the spool tension knob. (behind handle and drag)



Sorry for the questions but I am having a very difficult time following your instructions since I don't know what the names of the knobs on the reel are. I wish it came with instructions. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Don't worry abou tit we were all new at this once.

Also, once it is set, do I have to do this everytime I change out a different weighted lure?

I do when I switch between a big range of weight (like 1/8 to 3/8oz), but you shouldn't have to from like 1/4 to 1/8.
Ok, sorry about answering it in your quote, it was much easier. I normally keep my brake set at about 3, and move it up to 5 (or maybe 6) in windy contitions. Especially casting into the wind.

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Old 07-07-08, 11:42 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnngolfn View Post
I have tried this but the reel doesn't stop when the lure hits the water or grass when I am practicing. If the reel is still turning after it hits the water, Robbie mentioned to tighten the knob 1/16 until it doesn't do that any more. Is he talking about the knob next to the reel? And what is that knob called exactly?
Yes he is, and that is the spool tension. It kinda of got confusing when he called everying this knob or that knob. That knob does exactly what it says: it puts tension on the spool so it doesn't spin as fast and doesn't spin faster than the lure is traveling (which is what causes backlash). I know robbie said you can cast without your thumb, but I think it is much better to do so. Start out his way, and eventually work on getting the brake set lower and using your thumb to slow the reel.

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Old 07-07-08, 01:09 PM   #33
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I definately agree that the thumb serves as a nice "safety" for backlash control. I have messed with my baitcaster for sometime, and after reading Robbie's post I have had much less backlash when practicing. It takes a lot of playing around with it, so be patient. My reel is also an Abu Garcia and has many of the same features as yours.

Long post short, thanks to everyone for helping me figure this out. I inherited a lot of gear from my uncle, and I've learned things that I don't think he knew about so keep up the good work everyone!!
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Old 07-07-08, 01:12 PM   #34
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Thanks a bunch. I currently have mine setup with a drop shot weight and two hooks above the weight. I use this when fishing for catfish. It tends to backlash on me but I will try to go through these steps to see if I can correct it. Thanks BB144 for the help and Robbie for the instructions.
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Old 07-07-08, 04:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnngolfn View Post
I have tried this but the reel doesn't stop when the lure hits the water or grass when I am practicing. If the reel is still turning after it hits the water, Robbie mentioned to tighten the knob 1/16 until it doesn't do that any more. Is he talking about the knob next to the reel? And what is that knob called exactly?

Just to let you know, that your thumb has to stop the spool from spinning if you can see that your lure is going to hit anything before it stops spinning. Thumb, thumb, thumb, thumb. If the lure hits anything, while the spool is spinning, that this a definite recipe for overrun. So imprint in your mind and muscle memory this sole instruction:

1) Stop the spool from spinning BEFORE the lure hits ANYTHING, be it the water's surface, the shrub in your backyard, or your neighbor's fence.

If you can do this, you will have reduced by at least 80% of the potential for backlashes.

In a later thread, you mentioned using I think 1/4 oz of a weight to practice with. Unfortunately, at your position on the learning curve, that is too light of a weight to learn with, especially with an ABU G reel. Save yourself the pain and trouble fiddling around with such a light weight for a beginner. Also, the two hooks you have on there can make things even tougher for you.

2) Use at the very least 1/2 oz of weight to start out. This will just about assure that you will have an easier time adjusting and learning the basic mechanics of the cast with a baitcast reel. Use a lighter weight at your own risk but you have now been told.

If you use a heavier weight and get your thumb to stop the spool from spinning right before the lure hits something, you will be more than halfway there. Good luck, don't give up and never ever quit.

P.S. It might even be helpful to barely even let it fall. Tightn your cast control knob to the point that you actually have to shake your rod to make it fall. Your casting distance will suffer, but you will gain the experience and training. Then, as you get better, you can start making incremental adjustments to loosen the cast control knob as your confidence grows, and it will. Pretty soon you will have it set loose enough that it would overrun when it hits the ground on a test drop. Well, that's how I like it now.
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Old 07-07-08, 04:13 PM   #36
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i started with an ounce.. then worked down to half
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Old 07-07-08, 04:18 PM   #37
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The magnetic setting does what again? If I set it at 5 (or halfway on my reel) and left the side cap (near the handle and drag star) alone, what would happen if I increased the setting to 10? Decreased the setting to 1?
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Old 07-07-08, 05:02 PM   #38
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Magnetic cast control basically keeps the spool from spinning as fast. The higher you set it, the less likely you are to backlash - but there is a tradeoff in there that you will start seeing shorter casts.


You must get a heavier lure than 1/4 ounce. That would be your problem right there.

I don't want to see you give this reel away. Its a nice reel and you will be happy you learned how to fish it.

Of course if you do decide that it just makes you sick to look at, Im only in the next county over.
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Old 07-07-08, 05:07 PM   #39
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hey i got the exact same reel pal!!! had 2, but one kept giving me trouble, so i traded up and got the gold one. now have 1 silvermax's and 2 of the gold ones. i am sorry as well, never noticed that it don't have any numbers on the left side. just checked mine, hahaha, and it don't have em either!! my bad pal. sorry. just used to haveing them on the other reeels i have. good reel too, especialy for the money. my opion only though...see i love da garcias. got 5 of em.
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Old 07-07-08, 09:56 PM   #40
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Seems like everything was explained perfectly.

To sum it all up, yes heavier weight is easier and cast farther.

It does sometimes however have a tendency to cause a backlash more often for people learning.

Fishnngolfn, Don't fiddle with the knobs........

Set right hand mag control at 5 and the left hand knob next to star drag so the bait drops slowy.

You should not have to remove knob if your reel is new.

If you adjust these 2 things.........drop and mags........then your set and only tighten left hand knob 1/8 if you have line over ride upon impact........

These other people know their stuff too......

Hope this helps.

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Old 07-07-08, 10:02 PM   #41
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Thanks everyone for all your advice and help. I should be able to figure it out now. I will let you guys now how it worked this weekend.
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Old 07-07-08, 11:00 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPhotographer06 View Post
i started with an ounce.. then worked down to half
Damn.... It would've been easier flingin' a freight train.

Talk about hurtin' when that smacked on the back cast!
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Old 07-08-08, 02:00 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPhotographer06 View Post
i started with an ounce.. then worked down to half
Actually, that was a very smart thing to do. Right on! Unless the rod could handle 1 oz.
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Old 07-08-08, 01:33 PM   #44
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i was careful with it.. but it gives the good idea of casting and getting used to setting it.. then after i worked down a little.. and a little more... then i tried throwing a bullet weight only in my oz size for worms.. works out good but now i after my dad snapped my braid and i'm out.. MONO SUCKS! so i've gotta head to wally world for some braid
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Old 07-25-08, 05:23 PM   #45
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I started with a baitcaster myself fairly recently and just now am starting to feel really confident. The advice in here is great and I printed some of it. I started using the line conditioner and it also helped a lot. They say it also helps braided not fray as much. There is a brand called Blakelys real - reel magic. I use it all the time. I notice when I go longer there is very little memory or coils in the line.
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Old 07-26-08, 12:08 AM   #46
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Bigbassin,

You mentioned that "There are normally six of them. If the pin in pushed out, then that brake is on. if the pin is pushed in, it is off. You want to have then symmetrical though. So if set one, you have to set the one across from it the same. so you can have none, two, four, or all six set. to start I'd go with all six, and go down to four when you get comfortable".

My question is that I was taught to set em' with every other pin pushed in so the pin across from each pin is the opposite of the other. Have I been doing things wrong all along?
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Old 07-26-08, 11:02 AM   #47
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Quote:
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Bigbassin,

You mentioned that "There are normally six of them. If the pin in pushed out, then that brake is on. if the pin is pushed in, it is off. You want to have then symmetrical though. So if set one, you have to set the one across from it the same. so you can have none, two, four, or all six set. to start I'd go with all six, and go down to four when you get comfortable".

My question is that I was taught to set em' with every other pin pushed in so the pin across from each pin is the opposite of the other. Have I been doing things wrong all along?
I too was taught to make it symetrical, but someone at TT pretty much gave me a snotty, stuck up comment (implying I was ignorant) that setting the brakes symmetrically was unnecessary. Being one who likes things nice, neat and balanced, I still subscribe to having my centrifugal brakes balanced so that punk can kiss my heiny.

I think you're alright and that is the way I pretty much set up mine, symmetric and balanced. The only exception is if I use only one brake. Then there is no way to balance it but it sure casts far.

Oh yeah. If you have the lp reels like the curado d, they came with a set of different colored brakes. These brakes can be used in place of or in conjuction with the stock brakes to arrive at even more braking possibilities. I have not seen the need to change for either 2 of and 4 off or 3 off and 3 on, but it is nice to know we have more options available if needed.
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Old 07-26-08, 03:52 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wishing2BFishing View Post
Bigbassin,

You mentioned that "There are normally six of them. If the pin in pushed out, then that brake is on. if the pin is pushed in, it is off. You want to have then symmetrical though. So if set one, you have to set the one across from it the same. so you can have none, two, four, or all six set. to start I'd go with all six, and go down to four when you get comfortable".

My question is that I was taught to set em' with every other pin pushed in so the pin across from each pin is the opposite of the other. Have I been doing things wrong all along?
I normally don't go into it for beginners, but every other one is perfectly fine as well, because, if you look at, it is still symmetrical.

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Old 07-26-08, 03:56 PM   #49
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IB, when just one of the pins is pushed out, then it is like having them all off (that's what I was taught anyhow). I've tried this. I turn just two that are right next to each other on, and casts, it doesn't work like turning two on that are across form each other.

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Old 07-27-08, 11:27 PM   #50
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islandbass,

"I too was taught to make it symetrical, but someone at TT pretty much gave me a snotty, stuck up comment (implying I was ignorant) that setting the brakes symmetrically was unnecessary. Being one who likes things nice, neat and balanced, I still subscribe to having my centrifugal brakes balanced so that punk can kiss my heiny."

When you say "mak[ing] it symetrical", are you subscribing to the "every other one" setting or are you recommending that i set the brakes directly across from each other? Right now I am between setting two pins in (the off position) versus 3 of the brakes in (every other one). It is always interesting to hear how others handle the details.

Bigbassin, so do you recommend the "every other one" setting?
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