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Old 04-22-07, 02:54 AM   #1
usngsm2
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Default Many questions, for a few.

Hello again to all. Finally back on the net.
well I have been thinking about using floro for ALL my weightless applications. I wanted to know if anyone else has tried and what were
there observations? I am talking the rod you only use for fishing weightless plastics be it flukes, worm or what have you.

I have just order me a flipping stick with manfacture suggest frog fishing with it. I was thinking when you are NOT using braid for these two techniques, what # of test are you using ie 25, 30#? Some one on here suggested braid for c-rigs and I absolutely love it, but I use a tungsten weight instead of brass and mono leader. But with this new rod that I have yet to fish (set it home) with, I am thinking about just using it for flippin and jigs. I dont have a spare spool other wise it would be a great little deal. Then I'd use mono for flipping and braid for frogging. What are your thoughts?

Lastly, what has been your MOSt productive brand of soft plastics? Specify color, make and model. Do you use tubes and have you ever c-rigged a tube?
Sorry last one. how do you tell when Bass are in the pre/spawn/post phase (how do you tell on a lake you've never fished)? What lures have you set aside based simply on these phases? We are heading back to the states, it will be awhile but we are in that direction. It's been so long, I am so anxious to be back out there. Take care all.

Oh, specify your topwater setup- rod and reel, and line.
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Old 04-22-07, 10:52 AM   #2
FlyRod
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Well, you're right. You ARE asking for a lot of intel!

Let me offer my take on line selection, while suggesting that you keep it simple.
For most, if not all, subsurface applications, the sinking quality of fluorocarbon shines. However, since there are some quirks in pure fluoro, I'd suggest you use a "blend", such as FloroClear (no "u") by P-Line. I've found it to be a perfect compromise that offers "sinkiness", durability, and very low visibility in clear water. Cheaper too.
Now, for leaders used with braid OR *C-rigs, pure fluorocarbon is my choice. I recommend the P-line Fluorocarbon Leader material, specifically intended for the purpose, sold in 25m spools. It's pricey, but you only use a few feet or inches at a time, and it's subjected to less kinking (death for pure fluoro) since it's never involved in backlashes. It's darn tough stuff too.
For topwater plugs, buzzbaits, and toads, you need a line that is NOT prone to rapid sinking. If you use fluoro with a Tiny Torpedo, as an example, the fluoro tends to sink, dragging the lure down on the retrieve...not good.
So, for most of my topwater plugging...Pop Rs, Torpedos, and the like, I use mostly P-Line CX, a supple and high grade mono with very little memory and generally good manners.
For buzzbaits, spinnerbaits in some cases, and for toads I use braid, usually a #30 test. I prefer TUF-line. Reason is that you need to get the lure moving ASAP and the braid, having virtually no stretch, makes that easier to do. It also makes for good hooksets and getting the critter outta the weed/wood.
If I'm tossing mostly heavy TWs (Spooks, etc,) and/or doing so in rough "terrain", I prefer P-Line Extra Strong mono. It's a tad thicker, much more abrasion resistant, and has a bit more memory. Remember, though, that memory is less of an issue with the heavier lures.
For cranks, lipless cranks, and clear water spinnerbaiting, I usually use the aforementioned FloroClear, mostly for it's sinking qualities (gets 'em deeper, quicker.) If I'm in REALLY rough stuff the Extra Strong is a good choice.
Soft plastic; For this sort of work, where retrieves are slower and visibility may be an issue, I use the TUF braid, in yellow (makes for easier "linewatching") with a pure fluoro leader (That P-line Leader stuff.). With this combo I have enhanced sensitivity, more positive hooksets due to almost zero stretch in the braid, and braid does not kink should a backlash need clearing.
I sometimes DO use FloroClear alone for soft stuff. Doing so reduces one aggravating factor common to all braids, that being the tendency to catch the breeze and bow the line. Since this can drag the lure off-target or result in line being blown into a snag, the mono or blends might be a good choice. If you're using heavier worm weights or jigs, the wind affects the braid to a lesser degree.
For LIGHT softies or other forms of slow presentation, I use #15 OR #20 braid with a fluoro leader. The lower-test braid catches less breeze, y'see, and sinks more readily as well. You still get the sensitivity.
Leaders: I always use a lower test fluoro as a leader with braid. For my #30 braid, I generally use a #15 fluoro but may go to #20, even #25 in tougher terrain. For my #20 braid, I generally employ #12, maybe #15, fluoro leaders. If using #15 braid...#12 leader.
(You mentioned flipping. Think braid or braid + leader.)
Knots...think Palomar for virtually ALL applications. For joining leader to braid, learn to tie the Dreaded J-Knot (see Stren website) and practice, practice, practice. For practice, use old braid and mono since you lose several inches of each when tying the "J Monster".
Each time, and I mean ALWAYS, when tying knots, slobber liberally on the line and knot BEFORE you tighten down. Friction=heat=line damage, especially with fluoro.
I recommend leaders of at least five feet when attaching one. This gives you several reties of lures or hooks before needing to "re-leader". I sometimes use a leader of perhaps eight feet, m'self.
I'll leave the rest of your inquiries to be addressed by the other TOTALLY NOT OPINIONATED OR BIASED folks here...

Good luck and feel free to PM anytime you wish.

FlyRod
What do I know? After all, I've only been at this for 55 years.

* For C-rig....BRAID + Fluoro leader...always. You need ALL the sensitivity you can get. When you build your C-rig, in order to use the Palomar on both sides of the weight, tie your leader to the weight first, using the Palomar. Then, tie the main line to the weight, passing the entire leader through the loop (if you do it the other way, you may find passing the rod and reel through the loop a bit challenging.) then tie your lure on....last.

Last edited by FlyRod; 04-22-07 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 04-22-07, 11:03 AM   #3
bassnman30
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OK here goes, I use flouro on all baits that are not reaction baits (I.e. rattle baits,spinnerbaits etc..) nor do I use it for the main line on c-rigs, on that I use co-polimer as a main line and flouro. as a leader. For top waters I don't use flouro. I do use co-polymer or reg. mono.
I like a med. heavy for pop-r's and buzzbaits, with co-polymer or reg. mono in 14 lb test.
Most popular has been a craw fish looking baits in various colors.
Heavy or med heavy action rod, depends on the make of the rod. Some co.'s make heavy action rods feel like med.heavy action or visa versa. Never C-rigged a fluke or tube. Mostly I use lizards or small "stick" baits.
When bass are in pre-spawn, the are usually in shallow water and can be caught rather easily on rattling baits,spinnerbaits,shallow cranks, etc...
When they are on the beds they become more difficult to catch due to there wanting to spawn and thats all that they prefer to do. Granted, there are times when they will strike unless thay have been pressured by other anglers.
(thats the way it seems to me).
I try to use Shakey heads, and floating worms.
When they get into pre-spawn they usually stay shallow for the next week or slightly longer.
Hope this info, has helped out some, I'm sure that you'll recieve different answers to your questions.
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Old 04-22-07, 12:25 PM   #4
Rebbasser
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For weightless applications I use fluoro-Seguar Carbon Pro to be exact. It handles pretty well on a baitcaster and is tough line.

Flipping and pitching, which I do very little due to the lakes I fish, I only use braid. For these short line techniques I want strong line with little or no stretch.

C-rigging I use braid for the main line, either a couple tungsten weights or a Lindy No-Snagg sinker depending on where I'm fishing, and a 17 lb fluoro leader.

Most productive soft plastic-I'd have to say either a Yum Dinger or a Wave Worm Tiki Stick.

topwater setup: AllStar Top Water Special, Team Diawa 153HST reel and 12 lb green Trilene Maxx line.

Spawning bass-check the water temp. 55-65 or so is prespawn, 65-70 on the beds and above 70 post spawn-as a rule of thumb. Also, check the fish you catch. Bloody tails are a good indication of spawnning.
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Old 04-22-07, 05:19 PM   #5
Zach_BassFisherman
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Well as for the most productive soft plastic, I would say it has to be any color of the Wave Worm Tiki Stick, but I get most production out of the carmel and bubblegum colors.
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