03-20-10, 09:18 PM | #1 |
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Mono -vs- FC
Was reading another post about which type of line to use with weightless T-rigged Senkos. Was wondering what most of you use and why?
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03-20-10, 09:35 PM | #2 |
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I use BPS 12lb FC on my T-rig rod (casting) - weight or no weight. If I am throwing it wacky then I am using it on a spinning rod and using 10lb FC.
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03-20-10, 09:51 PM | #3 |
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Pretty much what MIbasser said. I use 12lb Seaguar Invisx on a casting rod for weightless t-rigged senkos. For wacky rigs, I throw 8lb fluoro on a spinning reel.
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03-21-10, 08:31 AM | #4 |
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I like 14lb flouro a lot! It sinks so the bait bait has a more natural fall, and it more sensitive too, helps you feel the lite bites fish often have when senko fishing! Plus, it nearly inadvisable, helps in clear/presser lakes!! I'd say abrasion residence, but, you get get mono/copolymer now days that has that up flouro carbon. But right now I'm using 12lb CXX, not bad, but I think I liked the flouro a little better.
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03-21-10, 12:05 PM | #5 |
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I prefer using light (10-20lb) braid or Pline CX/CXX copoly around 12 lb which allows the lure to do what it was designed to do, rather than mono forcing it higher or fluoro possibly forcing it lower...
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03-21-10, 12:37 PM | #6 |
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I'm with Screwball on this one, I use 12 lb CX on my Senko rod. It seems to give me the best of both worlds, it does float and it does sink, if that makes sense.
If i had to pick between fluoro and mono and i would definitely pick fluoro though. |
03-21-10, 12:49 PM | #7 |
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Dont use either. I use 12 lb. Pline CXX for 6' and deeper and 15lb for everything else. CXX sinks a little better than Mono, but I also believe that a slow sink is what makes these baits attractive.
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03-21-10, 01:29 PM | #8 |
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I use 12lb mono just because its cheaper. I use Berkley Big Game line. Very cheap but a great line!
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03-21-10, 01:58 PM | #9 |
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That's cool, I never really checked!
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03-21-10, 03:39 PM | #10 |
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For all my mono/fluoro applications with the exception of topwater I use P-Line Floroclear. It is mono line with a fluoro coating. Tough, invisible under water, and handles like a dream. The best of both worlds. Definitely the best line I have used.
That said, line-like anything else in fishing-comes down to personal preference, so use what works for YOU, not someone else. I used fluorocarbon line for a while, but didn't like the stiffness or expense of fluoro.
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03-21-10, 04:40 PM | #11 |
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For several years I used green 10# Power Pro on a spinning rod for weightless Senko type worms.
Four years ago I switched to red for better visibility. Last year I switched to Fireline Tracer in 15# test. I fish in almost gin clear water...I have tried short 18 - 24 inch fluoro leaders that could be kept outside the guides, so they were easy to cast. These leaders were of 6 and 15 pound test. I don't find much difference in my number of hits with or without the leader. I believe that bass aren't line shy. However I think they react negatively to drag. Drag is when the wind or water current pulls your line and causes the bait to react in an unnatural way...like sinking sideways or moving up, instead of falling down. Thin lines react less to drag. I believe that is why trout fishermen often say they need finer and finer tippets. Thirty and 40 years ago trout fishermen sometimes used dental floss as a tippet...It was fine, it floated high, but it was very visible. The fish didn't care so long as the bait didn't drag. I think the difference in rate fall between a worm on mono and one on fluoro is negligible. Our fathers and grandfather caught their fish on what we would consider butcher's string. As fishermen we tend to over complicate thinks. This is, in my opinion, a classic case of hair splitting! Garry2rs |
03-21-10, 05:08 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
We've all been told that fluoro is super expensive to make, and that's the reason for the high price tag. But, could it have just been a way to generate more revenue? Doubt we'll ever know. I find it strange that there is such a big price difference in fluoro across the board. IMO, fluoro line is just another tool - and sometimes it makes sense. I do agree that when you are trying to get a bait to fish deeper, it does help. What I don't buy is that it is more sensitive and has less stretch compared to the likes of Pline, and some similar copoly lines on the market. |
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03-21-10, 08:19 PM | #13 |
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IMO, a lot of line tests are bogus because the lines are tested dry!
I seem to recall Tackle Tour doing a series of tests on fluorocarbon lines, a few years ago, where they tested the lines wet... They also varied the length of time that they were in the water... Line might react differently when you first are leaving the ramp, compared to at the end of the day. As I remember, think there wasn't much difference between the FC and the Mono in the real world... Maybe someone else will have more complete recall... Garry2R's |
03-22-10, 01:55 AM | #14 |
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I like to fish 12 Berkley XL on all my weightless rigs. I don't want it to sink. I like to work the bait and have it shoot out of the water from time to time.
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03-22-10, 06:56 PM | #15 |
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Could not agree more. I used to get caught up in what the pros recommend until I realized since I don't make my living fishing it really doesn't matter if I use it or not. Now I use what works for me. Case in point: Crankbait rods. I used glass, composite, but settled on a 6-6 M action graphite for 90% of my crankbait fishing. Not technique specific, and guess what? I still get fish in the boat.
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03-22-10, 07:12 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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03-22-10, 07:18 PM | #17 | |
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Tools
Quote:
I kinda look at like this, since I was a mechanic for years and years, I tend to compare allot of things to tools. If you have a pair of pliers, a pair of vise-grips, a crescent wrench, and a ratchet and socket, all of them will take a nut off of a bolt, but one of them will make the job allot easier than the others. I guess there is no right or wrong, just have to use the best tool you have to do the job. |
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03-22-10, 10:30 PM | #18 |
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Keith, the problem is it took me a whole lot of years and $$$ to figure that out!
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