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Old 02-15-13, 10:31 PM   #26
Brian E Brightwell
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I agree on the white color. It allows me to see it so much better. I fish Blue River in Indiana a lot because I live on the river. A weightless white tube on lite spinning rod and 6lb nanofill allows me to cast to the other side of the river easily. The smallmouth seem to like the white too.
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Old 03-01-14, 02:03 PM   #27
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bubble gum zoom trick worm/ 4/0 ewg...twitch the snot out of it...awesome in hot shallow water.
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Old 03-01-14, 06:48 PM   #28
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I tried the weightless worm today in a pond with a lot of weeds. I caught 3 and missed several. Did not bog down in the trash like a traditional Texas Rig.
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Old 03-07-14, 12:08 PM   #29
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Spinning rod and reel.
5/0 Mister Twister keeper hook.
7" grape shad Culprit worm or it's equivalent rigged as straight as possible. (I do use BPS Stickos a lot these days, they cast farther and skip WAY farther under docks and overhangs)
Fished slow ... two or three foot pulls, let it go to the bottom and sit as long as you can stand, repeat until at boat side, but it usually won't make it all the way back.

Get ready for one of the most productive days of your life, if you haven't fished this way before. It's the only soft plastic presentation I use anymore.
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Old 03-07-14, 02:02 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikechell View Post
Spinning rod and reel.
5/0 Mister Twister keeper hook.
7" grape shad Culprit worm or it's equivalent rigged as straight as possible. (I do use BPS Stickos a lot these days, they cast farther and skip WAY farther under docks and overhangs)
Fished slow ... two or three foot pulls, let it go to the bottom and sit as long as you can stand, repeat until at boat side, but it usually won't make it all the way back.

Get ready for one of the most productive days of your life, if you haven't fished this way before. It's the only soft plastic presentation I use anymore.
What size/type/brand of line do you use most often with this?
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Old 03-07-14, 05:19 PM   #31
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Sorry, I meant to include that. I use 20# braid (6# diameter). As soon as your lure hits the water, quickly take the slack out, then let the slack lie right in front of you. Watch the braid. As the lure sinks, you'll see the line moving towards it. When the line stops, it's on the bottom. If you see any "tic" in the line, no matter how slight ... tighten up on it. If there's weigh ton the end, set the hook immediately.
My biggest problem with this fishing method is, without the weight, bass are much more likely to swallow it. DO NOT wait, set the hook as soon as you feel the fish on. If you do this, and miss a fish, believe that it was too small to get the whole worm in it's mouth. You didn't miss a big'un ... you missed a dink.
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Old 03-07-14, 06:10 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikechell View Post
Sorry, I meant to include that. I use 20# braid (6# diameter). As soon as your lure hits the water, quickly take the slack out, then let the slack lie right in front of you. Watch the braid. As the lure sinks, you'll see the line moving towards it. When the line stops, it's on the bottom. If you see any "tic" in the line, no matter how slight ... tighten up on it. If there's weigh ton the end, set the hook immediately.
My biggest problem with this fishing method is, without the weight, bass are much more likely to swallow it. DO NOT wait, set the hook as soon as you feel the fish on. If you do this, and miss a fish, believe that it was too small to get the whole worm in it's mouth. You didn't miss a big'un ... you missed a dink.
Thanks, Mike. I re-read your post 3 or 4 times before asking the question because I figured I was just reading too fast and missing it in there somewhere. I LOVE worm/senko fishing so I'll have to give this set-up a try.
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Old 03-07-14, 07:57 PM   #33
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This is my personal best ... 9 pounds 13 ounces on an electronic scale. I caught this fishing this technique.
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Old 03-09-14, 12:11 PM   #34
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I tried it with a 12 in jelly worm,but fish were so small there they would bite it off just below the hook-clarks hill. 7 iin trick worm had to suffice fishing cuts for one or two fish per cut.with the guy in the font getting both as isolated on that brown brush or weeds.
Did catch fish behind him small bass,grass pike and yellow perch,perch averaged 3/4 pd to a lb,grass pike one went over 4lbs.
Can honestly say dragging two ten ft talons behind or down in gin clear water does effect the bite.It was almost a trolling effort everyone moved about 2mph and flipped.You get two jerks from back of boat and its behind you.
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Old 06-09-14, 05:51 PM   #35
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Default Casting weightless

How in the world do you cast far enough weightless?
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Old 06-10-14, 07:20 AM   #36
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How in the world do you cast far enough weightless?
Use an "open-face" spinning reel. I fish BPS Stickos with a bait caster, since the weight to wind resistance ratio allows for good long casts. But with twirl tail worms, there's too much wind resistance and too little weight. A spinning outfit with braid will allow you to get good distance, good feel for light hits, and good hook sets with no stretch.
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Old 06-10-14, 01:43 PM   #37
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I'd also like to add to what Mike said about the spinning rod and reel setup. You can also get more distance by using a longer rod rated with medium or medium light power.

lighter braided line 10 to 20 lbs.
7 ft or longer Spinning rod M to ML power with fast tip
Allow a little slack in your line before you cast (24 inches to 36 inches). This will allow the rod to "load up" more before you cast.


-Mark
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Old 06-18-14, 02:41 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaindioux View Post
How in the world do you cast far enough weightless?

I'm a spinning reel guy. Like many have said, a spinning reel is key when throwing weightless (or very light.) Spool it with nano-fil and you'll get 20 to 30% more distance than with braid or monofil. The stuff casts AMAZING. ...though it's a pain the the arse to tie a consistently good knot with nano-fil, and I don't like the white color in clear water. Fortunately I don't fish super clear water often. If I did, I think I would use a FC leader.

If you want to go with 100% Fluro Carbon, I recommend Seagur InvisX - I've had nightmares with other brads of FC on spinning reels, but InvisX isn't too bad.
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Old 06-18-14, 02:25 PM   #39
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Actually, Woody, leaving some line out for the cast doesn't load the rod any more than having the lure right at the rod tip. What it does is turn your rod into a trebuchet ... a type of catapult. But you are correct that it will add distance to your casts.

Iowa ... the Palomar knot will hold every time, if tied correctly. There's a trick to tying the Palomar correctly. Tighten the "knot" created around the line before cinching it up to the hook eye.
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Old 06-18-14, 05:06 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikechell View Post
Actually, Woody, leaving some line out for the cast doesn't load the rod any more than having the lure right at the rod tip. What it does is turn your rod into a trebuchet ... a type of catapult. But you are correct that it will add distance to your casts.

Iowa ... the Palomar knot will hold every time, if tied correctly. There's a trick to tying the Palomar correctly. Tighten the "knot" created around the line before cinching it up to the hook eye.
I've been using the Palomar knot with better success as I get better at tying it. Actually I think I use a "double Palomar knot" (at least that's what I call it) - I make two loops when tying the square knot before slipping the loop over the lure and cinching it down.

I have one rod spooled with nano-fil, but honestly don't use it that often except when fishing a stream for small mouth and I want to cast very small in-line spinners. Even then, I don't always take that rod, as I'm usually in canoe and I don't like more than 2 rods. I've started to take a rod spooled with 8-pound InvisX fluorocarbon for the slow fishing clear water and one with a light braid for ribbit frogs and anything in stained water.

If I were wading, I would definitely take the nano-fil. There are times when the extra distance allows me to cast to spots I otherwise couldn't reach without getting waste-deep in the water. From a boat, that extra 5 or 6 feet on a cast normally isn't as important to me.
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Old 06-19-14, 11:10 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikechell View Post
Tighten the "knot" created around the line before cinching it up to the hook eye.
I avoid cinching any knot tight before I've gathered it at the hook... sliding a tighted knot can contribute to damaged line. I see this most often with fluoro lines.
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Old 06-19-14, 02:03 PM   #42
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Not a problem with braid for two reasons. Braid is very "slick" to itself. It requires special knots to keep it from slipping off. The Palomar does this job well and can easily be tightened as I stated. However, in the vein of "You could be right" ... "Snug" the knot on the line before sliding to the eye ... then tightened everything.

I've seen too many Palomar knots break because of over lapping threads of the finished knot. By doing it the way I said, you can avoid the overlaps.
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