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Old 01-18-06, 01:34 AM   #51
WTL
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After a while knowing the forum it was inevitable that this whole matter would outgrow its importance anyway. I will agree that sometimes there is only a nominal difference made by wetting the line, and I have in fact been known to skip the step altogether. But it can do good and as I maintain, the way I tie my knots at least some of the time absolutley calls for wetting the line when pulling it taut.
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Old 01-18-06, 10:43 AM   #52
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Fish 4 Soup
Basspro Wannabe has some good advice. Check the rod near where the reel fits into the the seat. Take a look at the reel, it should have the size line that works best on your reel. Post again with the information from the rod and reel.
It sounds like your line is too light for the lures you are using. If the reel is “kinda small” it could be the setup is for Ultra lite or Light rid for trout and or pan fish. It can take a small bass but it is not the best rig on the market. It is also possible that the reel is broken or needs a good cleaning. Sometimes the bail closes during the cast and stop the line.
There maybe a number of solutions to your problems, but more information is needed. Buying a new rig might now be the best one for you, although it does sound like you can use a stronger rig.
Also, if when you cast you hear a snap, and the lure goes across the lake. Your line has most likely snapped ( broke) the knot did not open. If after the lure takes off, check the end of your line, if it is curled or anything other then streight, the knot most likely opened.
Most instructions on how to tie knots will tell you to wet the line as you tighten the knot. I wet the line all the time unless I forget. I have lost lures because I tied the knot incorrectly. It has happened to me wiht mono and braid, using the wrong knot for the line being used can also be a problem.
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Old 01-18-06, 08:15 PM   #53
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I just checked my rod and reel, it's best line size is 6 lb. I guess i'll leave this one for soft plastics and small jigs. I think im going to get a baitcaster for the heavier baits.
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Old 01-19-06, 02:02 AM   #54
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There are great combos suggested throughout the thread. Get the most expensive one you can afford. It's worth it.
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Old 01-19-06, 07:39 AM   #55
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This so simple - take it from a knothead like me.........tying a knot without wetting it creates friction, friction creates heat, heat weakens line, especially flurocarbon, resulting in weak knots and lost fish. Lubrication of the line also results in a tighter knot, and a tight knot is a stong knot.
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Old 01-19-06, 10:15 AM   #56
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Aren't we through talking about the knot?

WTL, In-fisherman, and pros realize that wetting the knot doesn't create so much heat that it harms the line. Just cinch it down slowly. More heat comes from the sun on long days fishing in summer then you could possibly create with rubbing fluorocarbon together. I can't wait until that book comes back to the library.
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Old 01-19-06, 10:24 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Krueger, Jr.
Aren't we through talking about the knot?

WTL, In-fisherman, and pros realize that wetting the knot doesn't create so much heat that it harms the line. Just cinch it down slowly. More heat comes from the sun on long days fishing in summer then you could possibly create with rubbing fluorocarbon together. I can't wait until that book comes back to the library.
Alot of people can't wait until you mature enough to become a good all around person and then you will become a good quality fisherman. YAH HEE! Giddy up.
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Old 01-19-06, 11:35 AM   #58
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Krueger, I aint talking about friction and heat. The knot isn't weakened because tightening it causes heat, rather it is weakened merely by the virtue of the fact that here you have a place where a lot of pressure is being put in a very small stretch of line when you pull it tight. Surely you have used monfilament line long enough to tie a knot, and it looks like that last half inch of line right before the knot is warped a little bit? Thats why you wet the line, as a precaution - to make the whole knot pull together more smoothly and avoid any undue pressure and hence wear being put on the line. For the same reason, you are supposed to retie after landing a fish of any size - because once you've tangled with something big no matter what that knot is no longer at 100% of its potential strength.


Is that clear? If it aint you just need to go out on the water some more and get some real experience as others have said, instead of relying on books. Don't you know fishing books are imfamous for printing all sorts of lies? Have you ever picked up a bassmaster? Do you believe everything you read there too?
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Old 01-19-06, 02:02 PM   #59
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From the Bass Angler's ALmanac by John Weiss published in 1976 ISBN 1-58574-214-7: "Using an Instron Tesile Strength Testing Machine, scientists at Stren, the leading monofilament producer, found that there is no evidence that spitting on a knot while drawing it up tight is beneficial to the connection's strength. Knots tied with both wet and dry lines proved to be equal in strength."

Also in the book: Almost 100% of soundwaves carried in the air are deflected off the waters surface. Talk as much as you like but avoid hitting a paddle on the side of the boat.

Like I said I've never caused any noticable wear on my line when tying. I test ideas that I read about while on the water everytime I hear a new one. That idea has proven to be true for me. Although I also do this with fluorocarbon, without any problems so far, the study was clearly done on mono.

Also, WTL, I use Reel Magic like it's going out of style. Its lubrication has got to be better than saliva and I don't want it in my mouth.
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Old 01-19-06, 04:33 PM   #60
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Nobody ever said you had to use spit - just anything to help the knot pull tight a little more smoothly. Part of that depends on the knot type and also how well you tie it. The stren people in the lab I'm sure tied each and every knot perfectly. Also note that they did not mention which type of knot - I'm a little old fashioned and actually use a clinch knot for mono and flouro.
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Old 01-19-06, 04:52 PM   #61
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WOW. Thats the onlt thing worth saying here. Being here with the likes of such a seasoned all around veteran has left me speechless.
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Old 01-19-06, 05:44 PM   #62
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Anyway, the book is awesome. I never knew about pH levels before reading it.
It's an easy read and I recommend it to everyone. It contains information on oxygen levels; lake ages; temperature and depth preferences for spawning LM, SM, and spots; and that in lab tests the colors most often hit by all three of these bass are yellow and red/white.
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Old 01-19-06, 07:16 PM   #63
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if ur looking for a baitcasting reel, go with a shimano callisto, a great starter reel that i strongly reccommend, only 34.99 too! I have no trouble picking out a backlash, i got a reel for christmas, and was used to baitcasting by the next week, once you practice for hours a day it's easy!!!
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