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Old 06-13-09, 12:50 AM   #26
islandbass
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Thanks, BB. I make inline spinners. That tool I definitely have.
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Old 06-15-09, 07:47 PM   #27
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Finally got the crankbait to balance with a piece of ¼” pencil lead. The bait seems to balance well in the water.






I drilled a hole through the pencil lead for the wire for this crankbait. I will try though-wire construction for the next one. I will look into other materials for the lip and body too.



Next step, I am going to epoxy the pieces into the bait, prime it with white and try to figure out how to paint this.

It has been a challenge but rewarding at the same time.
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Old 06-16-09, 08:56 AM   #28
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Right on! Keep the pics coming, you're inspiring me. Thanks
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Old 06-16-09, 09:21 AM   #29
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Great doing IB! That's a sweet crank bait!

Keep the pics coming!
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Old 06-16-09, 12:30 PM   #30
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Looking good IB. Can't wait to see some finished ones.

BB
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Old 06-17-09, 12:52 PM   #31
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Update 06-17-09

It works! I stopped by my home lake yesterday to see if the crankbait would work. I wasn’t sure if it would work correctly and the creeping thought that it might not work was something I couldn’t remove from my mind.

With eager anticipation, I tied the Rapala knot for their cranks without a split ring and pitched out the lure. It made the typical plop, splash, dip and rise back to the surface that a crankbait does. Yes!

Next, I walked along the dock and figuratively I was biting my nails as I watched the line in front of the bait become taut. The lure started wiggling back and forth. Yeeeeee Haaaahhhh!!!!!! That's exactly what I was saying along with a few fist pumps and Sho Ryu Kens.

It was working, and working very nicely. It has nice and loose wiggle, reminiscent of a swim bait. It dove down deeper than I thought it would, probably somewhere in the 4-6’ range. Other folks on the dock thought it was pretty cool too. Alright!

I tried a few “real” casts and it casts as well as a Rapala DT6. Ahh yeah!

I am very stoked about the how far I’ve gotten. I primed it with white paint this morning and have to come up with a simple color scheme. I’ll be facing my biggest challenge and weakness… Painting.

-ib
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Last edited by islandbass; 06-17-09 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 06-17-09, 03:17 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandbass View Post
Update 06-17-09

It works! I stopped by my home lake yesterday to see if the crankbait would work. I wasn’t sure if it would work correctly and the creeping thought that it might not work was something I couldn’t remove from my mind.

With eager anticipation, I tied the Rapala knot for their cranks without a split ring and pitched out the lure. It made the typical plop, splash, dip and rise back to the surface that a crankbait does. Yes!

Next, I walked along the dock and figuratively I was biting my nails as I watched the line in front of the bait become taut. The lure started wiggling back and forth. Yeeeeee Haaaahhhh!!!!!! That's exactly what I was saying along with a few fist pumps and Sho Ryu Kens.

It was working, and working very nicely. It has nice and loose wiggle, reminiscent of a swim bait. It dove down deeper than I thought it would, probably somewhere in the 4-6’ range. Other folks on the dock thought it was pretty cool too. Alright!

I tried a few “real” casts and it casts as well as a Rapala DT6. Ahh yeah!

I am very stoked about the how far I’ve gotten. I primed it with white paint this morning and have to come up with a simple color scheme. I’ll be facing my biggest challenge and weakness… Painting.

-ib
WTG IB!!!

How much $$$$$ did it take to make it? Sounds really fun!
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Old 06-17-09, 03:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandbass View Post
Update 06-17-09

It works! I stopped by my home lake yesterday to see if the crankbait would work. I wasn’t sure if it would work correctly and the creeping thought that it might not work was something I couldn’t remove from my mind.

With eager anticipation, I tied the Rapala knot for their cranks without a split ring and pitched out the lure. It made the typical plop, splash, dip and rise back to the surface that a crankbait does. Yes!

Next, I walked along the dock and figuratively I was biting my nails as I watched the line in front of the bait become taut. The lure started wiggling back and forth. Yeeeeee Haaaahhhh!!!!!! That's exactly what I was saying along with a few fist pumps and Sho Ryu Kens.

It was working, and working very nicely. It has nice and loose wiggle, reminiscent of a swim bait. It dove down deeper than I thought it would, probably somewhere in the 4-6’ range. Other folks on the dock thought it was pretty cool too. Alright!

I tried a few “real” casts and it casts as well as a Rapala DT6. Ahh yeah!

I am very stoked about the how far I’ve gotten. I primed it with white paint this morning and have to come up with a simple color scheme. I’ll be facing my biggest challenge and weakness… Painting.

-ib
That's awesome IB!! Why don't you send it to someone who's good at airbrushing and tell them what you want. Maybe 66kingfisher will paint it for ya.

BB
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Old 06-17-09, 07:13 PM   #34
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I'd be happy to help in anyway I can....advice or otherwise....just ask.

By the way....i'm tickled that you had a successful first test....keep us updated.

Last edited by 66KingFisher; 06-18-09 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 06-18-09, 11:31 AM   #35
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If you are gonna do this a bunch, I'd recommend finding yourself some propionate pellets to seal the bare wood with, and Dick Nite's for sealing the final paint. I started on a sammy made of basswood yesterday. I can't wait to finish that! If you can't find a place to get propionate pellets, let me know and I'll send ya a link
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Old 06-18-09, 01:25 PM   #36
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66,

There was definitely some trial an error involved in finding the right amount of weight and the right spot. You might notice the dark brown patching on the bait. Hee hee, those are repairs I had to fill from holes. I learned or at least it seems that the weight really has to be at the LOWEST point of the bait. Also, I think that baits with a wider base (like a fat crank or a popper) are much easier to balance.

Doc,

Thanks for the tips. I will look into the propianate and the Dick Nite sealant. Should be fairly easy to find the latter here lcoally in the Pacific NW.
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Old 06-18-09, 05:03 PM   #37
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for some easy cheap and effective sealant, go get some virgin laquer thinner and dissolve some white dixie cups into it (for a white sealing coat). use clear if you want. just mix it till it has the consistency of milk, and dip your bait in and let it dry. should dip it a couple of times.
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Old 06-18-09, 07:09 PM   #38
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Thanks again to everyone.

Bassboss,

I don't think it was too expensive. I already had the balsa lying around from other "kiddie" projects and I had lexan lips (premade) from Stamina from a good while back when I thought I was going to get into crankbait making. You can find balsa blocks at craft stores and even Walmart for fairly cheap. I got most of the parts from StaminaInc.

http://lurepartsonline.com/cart.php
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Old 06-19-09, 08:24 PM   #39
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They sound great man , good luck with the paint jobs


jim
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Old 06-22-09, 12:05 PM   #40
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06-19-09

The crankbait has now been primed in white as shown. Sorry that the pic isn’t too clear.



Still undecided on the color scheme!
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Old 06-22-09, 02:07 PM   #41
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Wow, those spinners are NICE! Keep the paint simple first time around. Do like a sexy shad or something easy like that.
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Old 06-22-09, 03:47 PM   #42
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hm... how about a snow white crankbait. Oh look, you're done!

Maybe like sac said, a sexy shad, or silver/black back kinda thing. Maybe a firetiger if you want to get a bit more complicated. Ya gotta love a good firetiger crankbait.

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Old 06-25-09, 07:34 PM   #43
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Update 06-25-09

I have really got to work on my painting skills, maybe even take a class. I am not proud of the paint job, but I am proud that I saw this project through. It is just odd that I can shape and carve the wood with ease but I can’t paint worth beans. Here are some images of the finished lure.




As for the shark teeth, it is my signature trademark on my poppers and prop baits. I thought it would be interesting to see on a crankbait. Painting was done with regular hand brushes and acrylic points.



Oh well. I plan to make more when I have more time. I plan to paint rainbow trout, perch, and bass color schemes on future crankbaits.

Anyway, thank you for tagging along on my journey. I hope it wasn’t too boring of a ride. Thanks to everyone!

-ib
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Old 06-25-09, 07:43 PM   #44
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not boring at all IB. I actually couldn't wait for the updates. Good job man, the more you paint, the better you'll get. Just take one w/o the hook hangers or lip and paint it over and over for practice.

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Old 06-26-09, 02:13 AM   #45
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Not bad for your first.....each one you build will get better, so this time next year you'll be kickin out some cool stuff....thanks for the ride....I enjoyed watching.....by the way, what did you use for clear coat?

Now go catch a bass with it and show us that....lol
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Old 06-26-09, 03:01 AM   #46
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66,

I used DevCon 2-Ton Epoxy, the 30-minute kind. I sure hope you're right about the painting. I am not happy with the paint job, except for the shark teeth, but perhaps I was expecting a bit too much to be a Picasso or something my first time around.
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Old 06-26-09, 12:56 PM   #47
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If you think you'll be making alot more of your own cranks then i'd invest in an airbrush setup at some point in time, and start spraying your paints on instead of brushing....that'll help alot right there.
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Old 06-26-09, 03:06 PM   #48
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Quote:
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If you think you'll be making alot more of your own cranks then i'd invest in an airbrush setup at some point in time, and start spraying your paints on instead of brushing....that'll help alot right there.
Can you recommend one or a few? I take it I would want to get a dual action brush.

So I have a new fear.... I'm already sucky with a paint brush and might be worse off with an airbrush and make a bigger mess in the garage.
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Old 06-26-09, 04:24 PM   #49
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First off....do you already have an aircompressor? If you do then you can pick up a decent airbrush kit for $60-$75....there are cheaper ones out there if you want to look around, but remember that an airbrush is just like our fishing equipment.....you get what you pay for, and cheaper isn't always better...even for a beginner.

You can pick up a Paasche VL set...or an Iwata Eclipse or something equivalent that will work fine for painting cranks.....but i'd recommend doing a bit of research if I were you to find what type of brush you might like best....gravity feed or siphon feed....i've posted a fair amount of info on this very subject over at the TU.com forums if you want to read more.

For what its worth I became alot better artist once I got use to my first airbrush......for some reason I was alot better with it then I was with pencil or brush.....go figure.
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Old 06-26-09, 06:13 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66KingFisher View Post
First off....do you already have an aircompressor? If you do then you can pick up a decent airbrush kit for $60-$75....there are cheaper ones out there if you want to look around, but remember that an airbrush is just like our fishing equipment.....you get what you pay for, and cheaper isn't always better...even for a beginner.

You can pick up a Paasche VL set...or an Iwata Eclipse or something equivalent that will work fine for painting cranks.....but i'd recommend doing a bit of research if I were you to find what type of brush you might like best....gravity feed or siphon feed....i've posted a fair amount of info on this very subject over at the TU.com forums if you want to read more.

For what its worth I became alot better artist once I got use to my first airbrush......for some reason I was alot better with it then I was with pencil or brush.....go figure.

i recomend the gravity fed. it allows you to look under your hand onto what your painting, and not over.

but thats just me. i've airbrushed model cars and didnt like my siphon gun at all . i've used the gravity, so i'm hoping to get one soon, so i can get back to paintin
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