06-08-08, 09:22 AM | #1 |
BassFishin.Com Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Savannah GA
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Bass Swallowing Hook
What is the best way to handle the bass swallowing the hook? My dad used to use a stick to push down and out the hook in bream, crappie, etc--but when a bass swallows the hook---it's gone--and appears to be lethal. Is there some way to "cut" the hook and pull it out?
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06-08-08, 09:53 AM | #2 |
BassFishin.Com Active Member
Join Date: May 2008
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if i think i can get it out without hurting the fish ill try but if i cant i just cut the line and leave it
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06-08-08, 10:07 AM | #3 |
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Wifey,
You don't mention whether or not you are using live bait; minnows, etc, but if you are, that may be contributing to the problem. Others here will chime in soon to offer advice and solutions that you may find helpful so I'll just address one aspect, as follows: Early strike detection and timely hooksetting will, in many instances, go far to alleviate deep-hooking. There are ways to enhance these. First, use the most sensitive rod you can afford. The higher quality graphite rods transmit sensations markedly better than glass and composite rods thereby aiding strike detection. Try to carefully watch your line for the slightest movement or "tic". Much of the time, bass will take a soft plastic lure (or minnow) on the fall or in another slack-line situation. You might not feel the pick-up but a slight movement of the line might tip you off. Also...Let's say you're casting a plastic worm into water that is fifteen feet deep. Your 'lil morsel hits the water and begins to sink. You notice that it seems to stop sinking well before it should hit bottom. Unless the lure has landed on some above-bottom cover...tree, rock, etc., it's likely that a bass has intercepted it on it's way down and is either finning slowly away or hovering pretty much in the same spot. This is quite likely to lead to deep hooking and increases the likelihood that a live release is not possible. Some soft plastic lures, by the nature of the manner in which they are rigged and presented, are more likely to create a problem vis-a-vis deep-hooking. For example, Senko and similar softies are often fished, unweighted, in the "cast and wait" manner. As compared to a weighted softie that is fished in, say, a hopping fashion, strikes are often VERY subtle and the bass may ingest the lure deeply before you know he/she is there. All this is reason to invest in, and learn to use, the most sensitive gear you can afford. Also, the use of super-braids will greatly enhance sensitivity. If you are concerned re the visibility of the line to the bass's eye, then do as many of us do and attach a 3-6 foot pure fluorocarbon leader to the braid. So much as you can, avoid excessive slack and WATCH THAT LINE! Good luck, and thanks for your concern for the safety of our beloved bass. Lancer6 |
06-08-08, 12:19 PM | #4 |
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A product is made just for deep hooked bass. Not sure of the name of this item but it has a set of cutters that can cut the barb and remove heavy hooks. This item has magnetic cutters,and a slim design for small fish.
Dial up "northern bass supply" they have a site and will send you a catalog with this item in it.
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06-08-08, 12:33 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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06-08-08, 02:26 PM | #6 |
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Here's a link to the method that I use. It works well but sometimes a second set of hands is needed to use a needle nose pliers to grab the bend of the hook once you get it turned. The barb can still get caught up in all of the tissue in the throat.
http://www.in-fisherman.com/magazine...val/index.html
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06-09-08, 10:30 AM | #7 |
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weaver's article is the best way to remove the hook. Did it yesterday without a problem. Having someone pull down on the line/string is very helpful. Hook will pop right out. If you don't want to try this method then cut the line about 18" above the hook and let the fish swim away. This is it's best chance of survival. Not my opinion but proven. Hooks do not rust as quickly as people think.
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