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Old 09-30-12, 01:52 PM   #1
LeBron_Hill
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Default best polish for oxidation on boat...

I jsut bought another boat but it is starting to have some medium/heavy oxidation on the top...its really noticeable due to the fact that the boat is a maroon color. What are you guys using to remove the oxidation on your boat and bring back the shine. The surface of the boat is still smooth to the touch so i dont think that it has gotten too deep. I have some 3M marine restorer and wax that i was gonna try on it but wanted to talk to you guys first and see what you use. Thanks in advance
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Old 09-30-12, 07:15 PM   #2
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The 3m is worth a shot since you have some. You will have to use a high speed polisher. If it's as heay as you say most likely nothing will take it all out without having it recleared. There is a product called Vertglass that is supposed to b the stuff for oxidation.
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Old 09-30-12, 08:39 PM   #3
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it really isnt that bad to me...i have seen alot worse but i tried to put some on by hand today and that didnt work too well...lol
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Old 10-01-12, 05:47 PM   #4
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I work with a guy whose dad owns a marina near Minneapolis. Son's job was to polish/wax boat hulls. I asked him... he says they use Collinite #870 exclusively!! Great shine, lasts "like forever".

I haven't bought any/tried it yet, but intend to. If YOU try it and it works, please let me know (PM is OK too)!! I have a small 14', 60's Pipestone fiberglass fishing boat that I'd like to try it on...

Bob
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Old 10-02-12, 03:12 PM   #5
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I had an 87 Stratos 181 that on the top surfaces turned milky colored in the gel coat. I picked up a 3M bottle of stuff at Wal Mart for removing oxidation. I did not have a high speed buffer but one of those cheaper orbital buffers I'd also purchased from Wal Mart. It did an amazing job. I didn't polish the hull....just cleaned the oxidized areas of gel coating. Did it bring it back 100%. No but it made 1 hell of a difference.

Also for tarnished or yellowed white colored hulls, go to the Dollar Store and get a bottle of THE WORKS. It instantly cleans your hull. No effort at all. I've suggested this to many folks and get rave reviews. Apply it with an old towel or sponge. You'll get the idea.
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Old 10-03-12, 08:38 PM   #6
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i have a guy that specializes in fiberglass/gel coat repair that said he would buff out the entire top portion of the boat for $300...im really debating on just letting him do it so I dont have to mess with it
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Old 10-03-12, 10:09 PM   #7
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is this buffing only lebron? how much ot re-gel it also? i may be in otuch next spring. top cap only though.
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Old 10-03-12, 10:13 PM   #8
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from what i understood its only for buffing...buffing should have most of this boat looking like new, all except for the rear corners of the boat. Gotta take it to him for that and take it to another guy for the carpet/seats and she should be water worthy within the next month...cant wait!
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Old 10-03-12, 10:14 PM   #9
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ok, thnaks!
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Old 10-04-12, 10:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBron_Hill View Post
i have a guy that specializes in fiberglass/gel coat repair that said he would buff out the entire top portion of the boat for $300...im really debating on just letting him do it so I dont have to mess with it
Lebron, I live in Cartersville, GA I have 1997 model Astro 2000 White with Metal Flake Red. Every couple of years I used to take 600 grit wet or dry and sand the hull (wet) then use 3-m polishing compound for fiberglass, then follow up with Carnauba wax. All by hand in about 1/2 day on the cap alone. Bama has seen my boat, it doesn't look like an old boat at all. Now I just use the 1100-1200 grit and do it dry, then use the same compound and wax process. It last about two years with an occasional liquid polish to keep it shining! A little elbow grease can save you a ton of money. I have had this boat since 1999.
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Old 10-04-12, 05:20 PM   #11
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BOB-O!!! HEY MAN, WHERE OYU BEEN? sorry but i lost oyur cell number when my phone took a swim. text me when oyu get a chance ok?
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Old 10-04-12, 07:32 PM   #12
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ive got a high speed buffer...i had really thought about trying to tackle it myself but im just worried that i will buff thru the gel coat...ive got a buddy that works at the body shop of my company who would prolly do it for around $100 but i just didnt know if he would be able to do it or not...i might give him a call and see
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Old 10-09-12, 02:19 PM   #13
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Here are some instructions for wet sanding to remove oxidation from fiberglass:

Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wet sanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander if you do not own one.......

All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer. You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clear gelcoat. You can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.


Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 3,000 rpm model.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...mnumber=92623s

3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mperplusfoa.html White pad # 5737
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mperplusfoa1.html Black pad # 5738


Wet Sandpaper in 1200/1500/and 2000 grit. The grit can be matched to the severity of the oxidation.........if it is real cloudy you may have to start with 800 grit and work up to 1200 grit.

3M Perfect It II Rubbing Compound # 05973
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mperiirubco.html
3M Final Glaze # 06064
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3m06064.html

Any hard Carnauba Marine Wax

1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.

Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.

2nd step is to wet sand by hand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.

Start with the 800 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1000 grit, and rinse, then again with the 1200 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru ..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you start feel any of the polyflake ( rough , grainy edges ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.

When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.

3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.

4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.

Make sure you cover the carpeting in the boat with a tarp or plastic to keep all the material off the carpet.

By this time if there was not any actual gelcoat damage the finish should start look almost new again.
The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnauba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as it comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..


Collonite makes the best wax on the market :


Collonite heavy duty Fleetwax



http://www.collinite.com/marine-wax/fleetwax-paste-wax/


An alternative to paste wax is a Polymer sealer which last 3x as long as any wax.

Pro-Tec makes an excellent polymer sealer for the gelcoat, bonds to the glass and seals the pores to help prevent oxidation.

http://www.protecproducts.com/sealantpolish.html
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Old 10-09-12, 02:25 PM   #14
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Wet sanding does not remove the clear gel coat.
What it does is mechanically remove the oxidation ( cloudiness ) from the gel.

What people call clearcoat is actually gelcoat with no pigments in it, same as the underlying colored gelcoat, just a clear layer.

Gelcoat is actually porous, if you were to look at a piece under a microscope you would see pores in it, like in your skin.
If a boat is not maintained with a good coat of wax, or a sealer,the pores over time will accumulate contamination from old wax, pollution, water scum lines, etc.

This combined with the heat and UV rays from the sun cause a chemical reaction in the gelcoat that starts to breakdown the polymers in the gel into a white powdery substance that fills the pores.
This is what is seen as the milky/cloudy looking oxidation on the gelcoat.

Compounding or sanding removes a fine layer and opens the pores to release and flush out the oxidation.
The contamination is like a plastic " rust ."
Once it is removed, the cloudiness is gone and the color can shine thru the clear gel again.

To regel the clear gel coat on a boat would be a major $$$$$ expenditure.

A quality glass shop will charge easily 3 grand to re gel a 19 foot bass boat.
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Old 10-09-12, 02:47 PM   #15
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ive had mine nice a few times, but it always comes back so i just gave up and dont ever wash it. i knda like that approach better when im done fishing now. load up and go. no wiping...lol
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Old 10-10-12, 01:10 PM   #16
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And has that nice lemon smell.

Capt Mike
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Old 10-10-12, 03:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
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And has that nice lemon smell.

Capt Mike
Pledge is good for a quick wipe down.

Just remember that Pledge has no UV refraction properties, so a good coat of Carnauba wax or Polymer sealer is still needed.
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Old 10-10-12, 08:33 PM   #18
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Too new to know the Captain.
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Old 10-10-12, 08:52 PM   #19
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Hey I have a full spread out and I have a hit.

Hush now..

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Old 10-11-12, 08:14 PM   #20
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Baits are neglected now.. time to reel them in.

Capt Mike
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Old 10-12-12, 04:45 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Too new to know the Captain.
Don't give a crap about the captain.......
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