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Old 06-06-07, 09:03 AM   #1
3dkicker
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Default What do you do when you trolling motor just stops working???

Anybody have a check list of things to go over if your trolling motor just stops?

Mine stopped on us this past weekend right in the middle of the tournament. I tried everything I've learned over the years, checking connections and making sure nothing accidentally got turned off, and couldn't get it working. I probably overlooked something and I'll be embarassed when I take it in to Max (repair shop owner on Potomac) and it's something I overlooked (and I'll probably be pissed since we could have won our tournament this past weekend if it hadn't failed).

Thanks
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Old 06-06-07, 09:13 AM   #2
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is your inline fuse on the pos. side fried?
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Old 06-06-07, 10:50 AM   #3
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What brand of boat? Ranger has a breaker in the battery compartment that sometimes trips and shuts down the T/M until it is re-set. Like JB said, trace your wiring starting at the battery and work forward. I am sure there is a in-line fuse or breaker somewhere in the system.
Some models of MinnKota have a plate in the head of the T/M that has electrical circuits which sometimes burn out if overloaded. A friend kept having trouble with that plate burning out on his T/M.

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Old 06-06-07, 04:10 PM   #4
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Minn Kota 65lb on a Bumble Bee.

I'll have to check the wiring again and see what's going on. When I get it into the shop I'll write down a list of the most common problems and post it. I'll laminate the list and put it in the boat so next time I can go step by step and not miss anything.
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Old 06-07-07, 07:26 PM   #5
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Found the problem....it was a breaker for one of the batteries. Something that simple made a challenging day even tougher. Now that I have it fixed watch out! We have 2.5 hours of outgoing tide this weekend and we're on good fish

Sorry but Max was too busy so I couldn't get a list to follow in case I have a problem in the future.
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Old 06-07-07, 10:55 PM   #6
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I train our new electricians by telling them electricity moving through a circuit is like water flowing down a creek. Start from the beginning and there cannot be any open sections. The beginning being the battery on with TM.
Always be careful, working with electricity, normally I work with 480VAC, I still got shocked a couple days ago with 110 when I thought it was unplugged. Be careful!!!
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Old 06-08-07, 11:44 AM   #7
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You should train your new employees with a Megger

I had the same problem two weeks ago, motor just quit, ruined my whole day, until I swapped a few batteries around, and it turned out to be my battery Much rather replace a battery than a TM anyday!
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Old 06-08-07, 02:37 PM   #8
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Default Simple check list

First you need to have a battery tester on board. Cheap with long leads. second tool is a wire brush. Third tool is pipe grit cloth. (comes in a little box to clean copper pipes)

1. Test Batterys for 12 volts less than 10 and they are dead.
2. Test connector at front of boat for 12-24
3. Listen for click of relay in motor. If it clicks and no movement then it is a load issue.
4. Since it may just be a load issue clean battery connectors.
5. Measure voltage after circut breakers.
6. Last is to remove front panel and check interconnectors that some boats use to connect to plug.
7. TIP: Tape the connector on MinKota Power drive models to the pedal. This has been for years the number one source of something not working right. No left turn but right turn works. Speed not variable ETC> The more you dissconect that pedal the more problems you will have down the road.

8. Last it could be the switch in the pedal on Motorguides. Always carry a spare.


So you survival kit should be filled with a meter/ wire brush / grit cloth / and spare parts like a
switch and 12/24 toggle switch (Motorguide)
Spare pedal and electric tape for connector (MinKota)

Universal parts like prop / pin / 12/24 connector and plug..

I have burned up 6 and drowned a one and I am always prepaired to rebuild on site if needed.

I even carry the rubber mounting bolts for the whole unit.

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Old 06-08-07, 03:18 PM   #9
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moterguides have a rubber boot over the switch if this wears thru your done i bought 2 boots -$11- takes 5 mintues to repair and continue..

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Old 06-08-07, 04:16 PM   #10
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Capt - Thanks for the list. I'll print it and keep it. One thing I do have is stainless steel connectors at the battery. Max pointed that out when he was looking at my system. He said that a majority of the problems he gets are the connectors to the battery are rusted.
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