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Old 05-20-08, 06:00 PM   #1
MrPhotographer06
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Default Glastron re-floored

http://www.cbhforums.com/index.php?s...812&#entry9812

gotta go back and add support but it has a floor.. then i gotta fiberglass around the edges after i add another layer wood

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Old 05-21-08, 09:17 PM   #2
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Where are the removeable screws? I notice no fish tube for wires.

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Old 05-21-08, 09:31 PM   #3
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removable screws? fish tube? my wiring is under the lip
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Old 05-22-08, 07:40 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPhotographer06 View Post
removable screws? fish tube? my wiring is under the lip
OH ok but still use a fish tube under the gunwale. Oh and leave a pull line in it. Each time add wires to your tube pull with a second line attached.. That way you always have a pull line.

The sweet thing about a tube is those screw zip ties that can hide it well.

Also since you have the floor up epoxy in a flasher puck center of the hull for running.

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Old 05-22-08, 07:45 AM   #5
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Just suggestions BTW. It is your boat and it is your choice..
Sorry to seem so pushy in my posts.. It looks good BTW

Must be the coffee..

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Old 05-22-08, 05:38 PM   #6
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capt, you go ahead friend. been reading and like what you say. and YES, IT LOOKING GREAT!!!!
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Old 02-12-09, 07:33 PM   #7
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Today i added a layer of fiberglass Mat to the back corner..
I also added a good glob of filler to a couple holes in the gell coat.. one in the hull and one in the top rim.
Before i started

then progress pics






and a pic of how she sits now
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Old 02-12-09, 07:51 PM   #8
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again, it is looking good pal.
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Old 02-12-09, 10:11 PM   #9
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Lookin good! Hope you get out soon!
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Old 02-14-09, 10:27 PM   #10
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today:
I got the bondo sanded good.. the holes i filled in the top of the rail didnt fill like i wanted but it'll be fine. i got the hole in the side filled and it looks AWESOME.. i gotta hand it to my buddy on his sanding job. The fiberglass for the back came out SAWEETT too. we got it sanded and the wax paper off got the runs sanded out where it melted the tape to the boat.. and got it bondoing up now..
the crack in the top rail we bondo'd over it today so it'll be smooth. I clamed a 1x4 under the edge and got it being filled now..
i may just leave the right corner kinda rounded out instead of a right angle.. then again i may...
i left the boat out last night hoping to escape the rain and we did..until we went out fishing in my jon boat we got poured on.. and it got some water in it... most of it drained out but i discovered a problem.. if any water gets in the left or right side of the under deck.. it dosent drain to the bilge hole..so i've got to get a hole into the stringer somehow..
i'm not sure how i'm going to paint it yet but i do have an air compressor and sprayer.. i dont have the filter/regulator hooked up though.


i'll have pics for yall later.. i'm not at the house..



i can already feel the windburn

do yall think the thru transom connector i have for the livewell is alright to run for the livewell or should i get a thru-hull connector.. where to get it from too?
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Old 02-15-09, 07:06 AM   #11
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Okk I have looked over what ya got and at the minumum you will need a half gallon epoxy primer thinned correctly it will give you the coverage you need. Then a light wetsanding and then cover with Dupont Centari. Its a tough urethane enamel that will take the bumps and bruises involved in boating. Using this process use a very slight amount of hardner in the LAST coat. Your gonna need at least 3/4 gal of paint which unless you have a great friend at an auto store is gonna be a gallon. around 100 bucks depending on color.
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Old 02-15-09, 09:56 AM   #12
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sweet... thats better than 4
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Old 02-15-09, 05:48 PM   #13
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heres the pics from yesterdays work

^^ Thats my homie.. haha.. best friend..AKA Anthony [lazycricket000] whatever.. master sander.. it makes me feel like i've got parkinsons so i let him do it =P


Bondo sanded smooth

bondo on the back corner

lookin goodd

Todays work:
I took all the foam out, got it nice and dry to go back. i cleaned out all the debris and water from the boat also.




My dad said to encase the transom wood in fiberglass and connect it to the back of the boat and the lip that holds the transom wood.. so i did..
the middle part dosent have a lip and theres a 12" gap and wood below it so i cut it into 2 sections
My dad said i need to encase the whole thing though so i'll have to buy some more resin and mat to do the side of the floor..

Thats the first half.. my gloves were getting tacky and the glass was sticking to it so i wax papered the whole thing.. hopefully it comes off

I'm going to go out and check on it now to see if the wax paper will come off smoothly..
and the rail that was cracked i put the fiberglass under it. i was hoping to fill the crack first and be careful and not break it before i fiberglassed it but i had a little crack in it


hopefully tomorrow i can get the oppostite side fiberglassed and then tuesday do the middle and fix the crack in the corner of the little compartment there. then i can put the molding back on the side and screw the top back down.
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Old 02-15-09, 05:57 PM   #14
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pal you are doing a great job as far as i can tell. now keep up the great work. it is gonna look great in the end buddy.
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Old 02-15-09, 08:57 PM   #15
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How much will that glass resin smooth out imperfections in craftsmanship? Cause I have just redone my deck, and while it is ok there are a couple places where its a little rough - would glass resin (never worked with it) make it smooth? I want to cover it with kiwigrip paint afterwards.
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Old 02-15-09, 09:26 PM   #16
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well if its a lump in it, some sanding will work.. if its a hole.. get some Short-Strand fiberglass filler.. bondo brand from walmart...and some bondo spreaders .... get you a good goop out and mix in hardner until its good and reddish crap brown.. then lay it over it and get it flat.. if it dosent want to hang in get a big lump and push down on it.. and let it sit..then sand it back down[thats waht we did with that hole in the gell coat in the first pic]


its worked great so far to fill cracks and holes in the gell coat and fiberglass work..


Thanks bama.. the only thing i'm really not satisfied with is the rear corner, i have so much fiberglass that its thicker than the old.. so the bondo will fill the cracks and make it smooth, i'll know that its not exaclty the same thickenss

2/15/09 UPDATE:

i went and got that wax paper off and made sure it didnt stick..





looks pretty good to me.. its gotta have a little sanding and going over with bondo to make it smooth but it'll be fine.. the compartment corner i was talkin about fixing is shown in that 2nd pic.. i was gunna do it today but i ran out of mixed resin






Theres the underside of the rail. i had it pressed with a wax papered 1x4 and c clamps. It looks great and when i tried to put a little pressure on it it seemed to hold. Hopefully tomorrow i can get some more glass laid and bondo sanded flat.

oh and the lip i was talking about that wasnt in the middle is this



but i'm going to run it down on top of the top edge of that wood and over the other glass
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Old 02-15-09, 09:33 PM   #17
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Will the bondo brand filler attach well to plywood?
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Old 02-15-09, 09:40 PM   #18
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hmm..i'll ask that question over on a boating forum.. i'll be back with the answer shortly

http://www.noahsboatbuilding.com/noa...tatus=0&tp=&bc=
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Old 02-15-09, 10:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FASTLASER View Post
Okk I have looked over what ya got and at the minumum you will need a half gallon epoxy primer thinned correctly it will give you the coverage you need. Then a light wetsanding and then cover with Dupont Centari. Its a tough urethane enamel that will take the bumps and bruises involved in boating. Using this process use a very slight amount of hardner in the LAST coat. Your gonna need at least 3/4 gal of paint which unless you have a great friend at an auto store is gonna be a gallon. around 100 bucks depending on color.

alright laser..how will these work?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

and
cand find any Dupont Centari online
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Old 02-15-09, 10:28 PM   #20
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WTL: it adheres to plywood as to anything else.. its waterproof and works well..
make sure you get the marine grade.. [it should have a boat on the pic anyway] because if not, the regular kind has talc in it causing it to act like regular bondo and crack and not go well with the marine enviroment
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Old 02-16-09, 08:40 PM   #21
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2/16/09

Alrighttyyyy,

Today I got the left side fiberglassed but i ran out of resin so i got most of it done but when i get some more i'll lay a little bit more over that layer and i'm going to overlap the 2 strips that will go in the middle.I cut the little crack out and got it sanded and some of the bondo sanded good. As soon as i can work another day [probally friday] then i can get the resin and put the last bit of glass in.















Then i've got to slide the top half back and throw the moulding on it and put a few screws in to hold it on, so then i can judge if the port side rear corner in that back shelf needs to be cut and how much to move it out. then i've got to find some way to rig it up to stay where i can lay fiberglass on the back side of the crack and then it'll fit the back of the boat.. then fill the front side.

then the top will still be slid up and i'll lay the rear portion of the boat's floor in with the top slid up so i can get to the back and fiberglass the 2nd layer down to the bilge whole thing so the water actually goes in the hole and not between my two layers of wood.

then the top can go on and the front half of the floor will go in, i'll hang the motor, get the wiring in and straightned out and should be good to go

I'll be out of town the next two weekends so hopefully i can get this done in the next couple of weeks afterschool and be on the water the weekend i'm back home, or the next!
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Old 02-16-09, 09:05 PM   #22
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buddy, you are doing a fantastic job as far as i can see. please keep up the great work. you seem to be very detailed in what you are doing. i like that. it is gonna be awesum when you get finished. thanks for sharing your work with us. you just might have a great career in this field.
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Old 02-16-09, 09:24 PM   #23
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Yup idk when ill be back working on that boat probably friday or someday like that i hope that back hopes help to the motor
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Old 02-16-09, 09:28 PM   #24
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thanks bama..

I know the old man will come up with something wrong with it but my buddy and i did it so i'll be proud of it no matter what

The last pic shows the holes in the back where the transom braces were. I feel confident that my glass will hold perfectly. Before i started the encasing i could pull in the middle of the boat and the corner would flex about 1/4" on the left and between 1/2" and 3/4" on the right

now that the left and right sides are encased i can put most of my weight on the back and get very minimal flex from the corner so i think it'll hold up for my purposes on the boat.. just fishing..

now the transom is fine i think i can glass over the holes on the bottom side and fill the holes for the braces. I am going to replace the stainless plate i believe though. I mean its already made, fits the boat and all the holes are there except for one or two i covered up.


Oh and on the motor mount the two little cup things that you tighten down to the back, one of the little cups came off somewhere and is lost. What do yall suggest i do for that?
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Old 02-17-09, 08:07 PM   #25
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2/17/09

LOOK.. I predicted the future.. my dad came by today while i was doin some head scratchin, cuz i cut some wood out since i had the floor in last..

He told me that we'd do the best we could on the floor but he wanted me to wait and get some the poly styrene sheets to go in the floor and support the wood. But i told him i'm going to lay another layer down, some 1/2" plywood and it should be alright.. the then said then he was telling me i need to put some wood up front where the wall of the front compartment was, and he said to fiberglass it so it would be rigid.. [he dosent know that i plan on building the casting deck ..SHHHH..haha ]then he said the back would probally need 2 more layers of mat down on it then i told him i was out of mat and fiberglass pretty well so i'd have to have some more and i told him that i was gunna put the steel plate back on and he said oh well.. then it'll be solid as a rock..

Today i got the top alligned and screwed down and if i had put the moulding on first i deffinately would have just left it but the mouldings gotta go on so.... yeah.. i've still gotta fiberglass that little corner that i cut out and then the steel plate goes on.

Heres what she looks like with the top down




Well when my dad came up already had the floor laid down




haha..

I cut a section of floor out since i had the floor in last so i had to do a little rigging.. i took a 2 3/4" X 10" piece of plywood and screwed it to the edge of the other one.. then i took another piece of 2 3/4" X 11" piece and screwed it to that, then that will screw to the stringer..




The piece i put in the right rear corner in that pic.. is already screwed down to the stringer and to the cut edge of the fiberglass and it held well..
Then I took my scrap piece of 3/8" left over from last time and laid it down on top of the floor and its SOLID AS A BRICK.. no soft spots what so ever.. so with my new layer of 1/2" on top of it we'll be great. The sheet of wood that i have left over is what i'm going to use for the top of the casting deck. then the leftover 1/2" that i'll have from the sheets will be used to make the front face of it.
So when i put my double floor down i'll screw the 3/8 down to the stringers and the 1/2" down to the 3/8" and i should be good.



thats a 1X4" but you get the idea.. i'm lookin at about 6 1/2 " from the top of the deck to the edge of the gunwhale or w/e..

Hopefully i wont gain too much weight with my double floor and deck..
oh yeah, i get the "grandma grant" tomorrow.. so i'll have the $$ to get the wood... and hopefully the resin too

Thats all folks..haha
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