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Old 06-09-08, 12:12 AM   #1
joecnc2006
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Default New Gas Tanks for '87 Sketter Strada F-80

I took out the Old Metal gas can tank, I was going to replace with a larger tank but in this boat space in a min. So i went with a 6 gal. and a reserve 3 gal. for a total of 9 gal. I yet to use the 3 gal its still full, The Mariner 60ph i have on the boat does really well on gas now since all the work i did to it.

Things i have done to the boat since purchase used.

1. Rebuild fuel pump
2. Rebuild carbs.
3. Replaced stator
4. Replaced water pump impeller
5. Almost total rebuild of lower unit (whoever worked on it messed it up royally, parts in backwards, which made the boat go in reverse when throttle is pushed forward... LOL)
6. New trolling motor.
7. Bought smoked windshield.
8. Replaced tow chains.
9. Put in an on-board charger/maintainer.
10. Replaced gas tank.
11. Also the trim stopped working (low on fluid so i drilled an access hole in the plastic tank in the front, could not get the the access screw in the rear got frustrating trying to fill it, so made my own and taped the plastic with 5/16" bolt and filled with a squirt oil can).

oh yea got a new black and red Skeeter plate for the front deck access cover (scanned it and used it for my aviator here.. )

Joe
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Old 06-09-08, 10:42 AM   #2
skeeterman
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Your boat looks sweet.The f80 has a nice slim look that i love about it .Where did you get the windshield from? Im in need of one also.Also what was the price ?Can i get some pic of just the windshield ?Thanks
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Old 06-09-08, 06:40 PM   #3
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beautiful looking boat. great job on the tanks too.
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Old 06-09-08, 11:51 PM   #4
joecnc2006
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Thanks guys,

Here is a closer look at the windshield. I think it was 90.00

It really adds a good look to the boat.

got it at http://www.tinysfiberglass.com/ he bought out allot of the skeeter parts when Yamaha took skeeter boats over.

Joe
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Old 06-10-08, 06:19 AM   #5
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Nothing more satisfying than doing work on your baby and it all working out and looking good. Excelant job bud.
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Old 06-10-08, 06:22 AM   #6
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I also would like to add the fact that the 60 on that particular boat is a project I would really like to get into. I really feel like with some good ole elbow grease I could get that lil bote to run like a raped ape. I know what those motors are capable of when tuned correctly. I would do some carb work and some slight porting and of course cut the heads a little and then on the lower end I would open up that choked exhaust. I really feel like I could get that bote and motor combo to run in the high 50's maybe even low 60's with the right prop.
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Old 06-10-08, 07:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FASTLASER View Post
I also would like to add the fact that the 60 on that particular boat is a project I would really like to get into. I really feel like with some good ole elbow grease I could get that lil bote to run like a raped ape. I know what those motors are capable of when tuned correctly. I would do some carb work and some slight porting and of course cut the heads a little and then on the lower end I would open up that choked exhaust. I really feel like I could get that bote and motor combo to run in the high 50's maybe even low 60's with the right prop.
What prop would be best on this motor, I'm looking into getting one now.

The carbs are rebuilt already, have not heard about opening up the exhaust, how or what would you do to preform this?

Porting and head work, you talking about boring out the cylinders?

Joe
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Old 06-10-08, 10:26 PM   #8
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laser is talking about how da boat monkey is gonna make yer wife kill ya, hahahahahaha. kidding laser.
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Old 06-11-08, 05:54 AM   #9
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NO not talking about boring the cylinders talking about opening up the ports in the cylinder walls but in all reality it takes time and effort on a persons part to stay on top of the motor after doing port work. You have to check your plugs and "READ" them much more often. The best bang for the buck is to cut the heads. I dont remeber right now how much to take off. I gotta go through my files. What you do is take off I think its
.015 and bolt the head back up. It jumps the compression up to around 135. All you have to do then is when fueling stay with the premium gas. THAT IS A MUST when cutting heads. You will carry a load so much better........gain on the topend maybe as much as 7 or 8mph and the midrange punch is fantastic. As far as props there are several; that would suit you. Gimme your prop size and what are you turning rpm wise at WOT and how is your holeshot. With these answered I can make a recommendation.
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Old 06-11-08, 05:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FASTLASER View Post
NO not talking about boring the cylinders talking about opening up the ports in the cylinder walls but in all reality it takes time and effort on a persons part to stay on top of the motor after doing port work. You have to check your plugs and "READ" them much more often. The best bang for the buck is to cut the heads. I dont remeber right now how much to take off. I gotta go through my files. What you do is take off I think its
.015 and bolt the head back up. It jumps the compression up to around 135. All you have to do then is when fueling stay with the premium gas. THAT IS A MUST when cutting heads. You will carry a load so much better........gain on the topend maybe as much as 7 or 8mph and the midrange punch is fantastic. As far as props there are several; that would suit you. Gimme your prop size and what are you turning rpm wise at WOT and how is your holeshot. With these answered I can make a recommendation.
Well as it sits, I do not know the speed, RPM's im running just above 4,000 full throttle, it take allot to get out of the hole and onto the top and plane out.

It looks like the motor may have a different lower unit than what was originally on it, the lower unit is black and the motor is a very dark gray, you can tell it only in the sunlight. the lower unit has not markings on it to tell anything about gear ratio or anything like that or model number, the prop someone mentioned to me it just does not look right for that unit, I'm sure someone changed it out and possibly put one on that is making it not run as it should? I was thinking of buying a prop, but do not know what to get. size and pitch.

Joe
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Old 06-11-08, 06:34 PM   #11
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This may not be any help.But my boat has a 50 yamaha pro and 14-g prop(no idea what that really means) and i can get on plane really fast.
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Old 06-11-08, 10:59 PM   #12
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here is the lower unit you can see it isd black and the motor is Grey.

Also the prop that is on it now is about 10-1/2" wide. Hard to tell in the picture but eyeballing it is is about that much across.

Also how do i take that nut off with the way it has the keeper at the rear of it?

joe
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Old 06-12-08, 10:42 PM   #13
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Still waiting for someone to awnser the Prop. question and what i should get for this motor.

But here is the Mariner 60hp, with rebuilt carbs, rebuilt fuel pump, new stator and wiring, and new fuel filter. it runs real good now.

joe
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Old 06-13-08, 06:36 AM   #14
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The reason that lower is black is someone put a lower on that was originally on a Mercury. Same exact motor just different paint that the only difference between the 2 is the paint. Definately need to get that aluminum off the boat and use it as a spare. Still need to know what your rpms are at WOT and the prop size that is on it now. There is NO way to get very close with a recommened prop size without knowing at least those 2 sets of numbers.
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Old 06-13-08, 06:39 AM   #15
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Oh forgot to tell ya to take the prop nut off all you have to do is bend the ears of the keeper washer down flat against the thrust washer behind it and then turn the nut off as usual. After you get the prop off you will find the numbers imbedded in the barrel of the prop.
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Old 06-13-08, 06:41 AM   #16
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Joe I see you have 2 tanks in there. What are the sizes. Seeing that setup gave me a helluva brainstorm.
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Old 06-13-08, 08:05 AM   #17
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the prop is a 10-1/2" propco p16 (i am assuming a 16 deg pitch), there are no other numbers on the prop.

The WOT (wide open throttle i think you mean?) is about 4050 when i get on top of the water.

Hope that helps.

oh, you said need to get that alumn. off of there are you saying must go with a stainless steel?


The tank sizes are 6gal. and 3gal.

Joe
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Old 06-13-08, 08:09 AM   #18
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Ok bud. Now we can get somewhere. I thought from the pics that the prop was way to big. We gotta get those rpms upover 5000 for that motor to show ya what she can really do. What I am gonna do is compile a list of props that I would recommend for your rig. You can look them over and if ya want I can start searching for one of them you pick out. Any of the props I list will get your motor to spin over 5000 and get you outta the hole a helluva lot better than what you have right now.
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Old 06-13-08, 08:23 AM   #19
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great, i know anything is better than what i have now, it looks like a pontoon boat prop. thats on there now... LOL

Joe
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Old 06-13-08, 10:26 PM   #20
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Here is another shot of the windshield for you.
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Old 06-13-08, 10:32 PM   #21
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OK i called around also and a guy who rebuilds props had this one i got it for 50.00, if i get a better one then this will be a spare.

He also measure the old prop and it was actually shy of 12" x 12p, so "1FASTLASER" you are correct when you said the prop looked big to you.

So now the new (well new to the boat is a 10-3/8 x 14p) I will take it to the lake tomorrow morning and record the WOT rpm's.

Hopefully you can help me narrow it down further and get the right prop. and i can use this newer one for a spare now.

Joe
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Old 06-13-08, 10:48 PM   #22
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a 16p has too much bite on that moter a 16 would fit a 75-90 horse. your best bet would be a 14-15p i run a 10 3/8" x14 p stainless -DEFINATLY..

steel tanks weigh 60 pounds roughly..



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Old 06-14-08, 07:48 AM   #23
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Your gonna have a NEW RIDE with that prop
That 16 was WAY to big Now that I know what you have with the WOT numbers I can hunt you up a prop that will really wake her up for ya
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Old 06-14-08, 09:37 PM   #24
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ok, took the boat out this morning, ran about 5050 max, with the newer prop. 10-3/8 x 14p, clocked with gps at 33-34mph.

I think I should be able to get it better what do you think and suggest?

Joe
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Old 06-15-08, 10:06 AM   #25
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Ok sometime today I will put several props through the program I have on the puter and see what I can narow the choice down to. YES very definately will be able to get AT LEAST 500 more rpms in there and prolly amother 5 mph and that should put you right at the optimum for your rig without some major modifications. And also what I am telling you is your at the OPTIMUM without spending ALOT of money. If you decide to really make your rig scoot then we get down to the stuff I love but again I am warning you its gonna cost dollars.
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