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Old 08-02-08, 06:40 AM   #26
1FASTLASER
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CARPETMAN PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!! If'n ya cant get the pic's to load on here PLEASE EMAIl them to me at ......wareagle50@hotmail.com...... That boat is truly amazing and needs to be shown off. As far as Storms being fast ...YES i knew this. In fact if'n ya do a search on the forums you will see where I recommended a Storm Flats boat to one of our members when he was searching for a combo boat for both fresh and salt. So nice to meet you ..........maybe one day we can hook up. I was not aware the Darrel had his hands in on the development of the Storm hull but it does figure out why they are fast. I had the pleasure of riding and running a Storm hull several years ago and was VERY impressed with the wway she handled and run. I felt like this particular boat had some more in her and all she needed was some fine tuning to really waker her up but the older fella that owned it was pleased with it as was.
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Old 08-05-08, 09:49 AM   #27
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Well, let's try this. There's shot of the painter, Chris Cruz from Daytona Beach, FL (famous for his motocycle paintings) working on the boat, and the boat finished on the aluminum/ stainless steel trailer which was powder coated. The graphics were all air brushed--coated with many clear and then cleared with a special UV, ding resistant auto paint. This entire boat was customized--the bilge area had custom, etched, anodized panels with bass scenes and Storm logos. All the wiring was done with street rod type coverings ( I'm a street rodder also). Even the dash was one of a kind. We went all out on this one!

Rick
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Old 08-05-08, 02:10 PM   #28
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total $$ for paint?
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Old 08-05-08, 02:34 PM   #29
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Cost was around $8,000. But painter said" Figure a lot more for the next one. This one was fun but the next one will be work." Here's the fresh and salt water sides of the boat. There was over 14 varieties of fish & wildlife painted on this baby.

Rick
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Old 08-05-08, 02:44 PM   #30
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that's really cool. i've seen bikes with work that cost that much. and not as much surface area!
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Old 08-05-08, 04:38 PM   #31
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That is cool. Looks real enough that you should keep a dip-net handy. When the fish swim into the side of the boat and stun themselves just scoop em up.

All jokes aside, one of the coolest paint jobs ive ever seen. kudos to you.
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Old 08-05-08, 06:36 PM   #32
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LOVE IT!!!!! great paint job there man.
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Old 08-06-08, 11:59 AM   #33
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Finally back in town to where I can begin work on my boat. I pulled up some carpet under the driver's console where the floor is weak, and no wonder. I can't determine if this was a poor repair job, or original rot. Good news is that the stringer running to the left of the area is solid as a rock from what I can tell. So I'm hopeful that the damage is localized to the floor.

I'm going to post pictures below and then ask questions in the following posts. I need your guidance!!





The next picture is under the console:



The next picture is beyond the console in a storage area


The next three pictures show the oxidation issues:





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Old 08-06-08, 12:02 PM   #34
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Questions:

#1: Where should I cut to repair the floor?

#2: Did these boats have any foam? The hull since it is so shallow is maybe 2" at most below the floor (careful cutting here). I don't see any foam in there.

#3: Oxidation: The topcap of the boat is very rough. I can clearly feel the metal flake bumps when I run my hand over them. The hull of the boat is pretty smooth. So, should I wet sand the top and then buff with Maguire's oxidation remover, or just buff? I'm going to do some additional research, but I can't remember the standard practice when the metal flake is felt.

#4 (new): Okay, I give up. How do you remove the old bilge pump? The thing appears to be located under the battery compartment. I can see the wires and hose disappear under there and I can even reach under and feel the pump, but how to go about removing it? Just cut the wire/hose and leave it?

Thanks!

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Old 08-06-08, 02:47 PM   #35
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Look for the factory edges where they installed the wood pieces, or where they nailed or attached to the stringers. See earlier comments on using a chalk line etc. You'll need to find some good wood. Usually it stops at the seat base or there is a stringer at the seat base.
The front storage area will be another place that you'll have to cut into and find some good wood. The wood near the gunwale side of the boat was probably fiberglassed to the hull on a small stringer or a lip in the boat's design.

That bilge pump is covered by a battery tray but that piece should come up. Take out the battery and look for some screws that are holding down the battery tray floor. That fitting on the outside of the hull is smaller than the factory thru-hull. I'd say that the bilge pump may not have the right size outlet hose on it for your boat. We always use a high capacity bilge pump for extra safety. In my personal boat--I've set up a secondary bilge pump that runs, if necessary, from my trolling motor battery. If something fails in the boat, a short, dead crank battery, etc. I have my back up bilge just in case.
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Old 08-06-08, 03:21 PM   #36
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The battery compartment is molded into the topcap. There is an access hole to the transom and one to the live well. You can see the corrugated pipe and the black cable below it that go to the bilge underneath.



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Old 08-06-08, 03:23 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carpetman View Post

That bilge pump is covered by a battery tray but that piece should come up. Take out the battery and look for some screws that are holding down the battery tray floor. That fitting on the outside of the hull is smaller than the factory thru-hull. I'd say that the bilge pump may not have the right size outlet hose on it for your boat.
Oh, and that's not the bilge outlet....That's the livewell outlet. The bilge outlet is on the rear of the boat.
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Old 08-06-08, 04:21 PM   #38
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Very strange, but normal I guess when the builders forget about the future maintenance.
I wonder what the cable is for? I'd most likely replace that pump by putting it back near the transom. Are the power and ground wires going into that cable? And I assume that the corrugated pipe is the outlet. I'd also be sure that the pump was attached somewhere so that it can't turn over in rough water--wonder how the factory did that when you can't even see the pump? Plus, I'd add an automatic bilge pump switch.
Rick
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Old 08-06-08, 05:10 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carpetman View Post
Very strange, but normal I guess when the builders forget about the future maintenance.
I wonder what the cable is for? I'd most likely replace that pump by putting it back near the transom. Are the power and ground wires going into that cable? And I assume that the corrugated pipe is the outlet. I'd also be sure that the pump was attached somewhere so that it can't turn over in rough water--wonder how the factory did that when you can't even see the pump? Plus, I'd add an automatic bilge pump switch.
Rick
Yes, the black cable is rubber sheathed with a red/black pair inside for the pos (from the switch)/gnd. The corrugated pipe is the outlet. There's not even any mounting screws so I can only assume that they epoxied it in. The aeration pump is the same way....epoxied to the back of the transom. I guess I'll just abandon it, and install a new one near the drain hole. Do the internal float pumps work well, or do you recommend an external float?
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Old 08-06-08, 05:20 PM   #40
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okay here's the front deck...appears to be fiberglassed wood decking. I have a bit of a quandry here. My original thought was to cut it out, build some supports underneath with a new epoxied wood deck, but the livewell appears to be an issue. The upper seam/lip of the well is against the bottom of the existing decking. If I cut that out, I'm worried about resealing. I'm wondering, since the decking is not too bad, just reinforcing with another sheet of plywood epoxied/sealed over top and call it a day. Since the decking is recessed, a 1/2" sheet of plywood would probably fit within the lip, and recarpeted, it would be seamless. But I want to do it right and if that will cause issues a year or two from now, I'd rather bite the bullet and do it right, now. But, how to do that, escapes me at the moment.


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Old 08-07-08, 11:08 AM   #41
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The aerator pump can most likely be knocked off the epoxy so you can replace it using the same inlet on the transom. Be sure to seal it with 3M's 5200 or similar. The bilge pump should be fairly simple, take out the old one if possible, use the wring and outlet hose. We do not recommed float switches at all--plastic worms have a way of finding them! We use a contact type switch -Water Witch is one brand. No problems with these except we recommend cleaning the contacts every so often.

Front deck: I'd bet that all the problems started with that seat base which wasn't sealed properly. Trace the live well walls and try cutting just this portion of the deck out. Hopefully, you'll find good wood here. When you put down the new wood, lay a bead of bedding compound or mixed fiberglass putty (bondo) on the edges that will be need to be sealed. We also, if we can, grind the interior of the livewell up high and then when the wood is set we get in there with some strips of glass to seal and tie the top wood piece together. While you're at it, you can rough sand that livewell gel-coat and give it a fresh coat of mixed gel-coat. We like blue! Ole hawg has told us that is his favorite color. When you drill the holes for that seat base--buy a new drill bit. Dull bits, tend to knock out the wood underneath and this leads to water splashling on the exposed wood. If we can, we drill the seat base before we install the deck piece and we drill it from the bottom. We then use nuts and bolts, sealed with 5200 and we lay a pretty good bead of 5200 under the seat base before we set it in place.

As for just overlaying the deck with new wood. As the wood in the current deck rots, you'll most likely still have a spongy feeling in the deck.
Rick the Carpetman carpetman61@bassboatcarpets.com
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Old 08-07-08, 12:02 PM   #42
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Thanks for the continued insight and assistance!
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Old 08-07-08, 04:50 PM   #43
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No real progress to report today. Just too bleepin hot. My truck outside temp read 108 deg in the sun today. I spent half a day trying to find the 3M polishing pads with no luck. Only CarQuest carries them and they have to order them.

I did put on a brand new trailer lift. The bolts were so rusted on the old one, used a side-cutter to get them off. Only dropped the trailer once on my leg Accidently made a cut mark in the trailer tube steel. Is there a way to fill that in?
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Old 08-07-08, 05:22 PM   #44
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weld it and grind it back flush. then paint.
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Old 08-07-08, 05:42 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamabassman View Post
weld it and grind it back flush. then paint.
Sounds good...
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Old 08-11-08, 03:38 PM   #46
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Some more baby steps:

First batch of polished hardware....Using my gun casing polisher w/ walnut shells. Cleats remain a little scratched, but no bigee for me:



Removing Carpet. Carpet coming off in solid pieces. Acetone and door scraper doing the rest.



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Old 08-13-08, 04:25 PM   #47
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Bad weather so no outdoor work today. Polished up the windshield. It was badly scratched, pitted and cloudy. Used a 3 part process that I borrowed from my Pinball refinishing days, using some liquid abrasive/polishers and buffing pads on my drill. The results are pretty good. Still need to clean my fingerprint smudges with some windex

Before


After
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Old 08-13-08, 06:54 PM   #48
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now that looks great!!!
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Old 08-14-08, 05:51 AM   #49
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Robertme

Please tell us what ya used nud. That is GREAT how she turned out. I have a ton of plastics around that could use a face lift like that.
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Old 08-14-08, 07:05 AM   #50
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I used this kit (the original):
http://www.treasure-cove.net/PolishingKit.htm

I see someone else has ripped them off:

http://www.pinrestore.com/PolishingKits.html

I used to do alot of Pinball playfield polishing. A Pinball playfield has a layer of clearcoat on it which is basically plastic.

For smaller plastics on a Pinball Machine and Boat too, use Novus products.

http://www.novuspolish.com/
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