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Old 06-13-10, 09:41 PM   #26
ski
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New member here. Interesting post because today I took my "new to me" boat out today and was out an hour before heading back due to rain. Rushed to get in and put the boat on the trailer and realized I was about an 1 1/2' short of the front roller. When driving home I saw the boat bobbing on the trailer due to not being up against the front roller. When I got home I got a ratchet strap and did just what you posted in the link to snug it down to the roller.
Long story short, go to Home Depot and get a $7 ratchet strap.
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Old 06-13-10, 10:19 PM   #27
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I don't use one of those, but my boat is winched up tight on the trailer with tie downs in the rear. I also always use the safety chains and use an installed hitch, not the bumper.
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Old 06-14-10, 01:07 AM   #28
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Winches are designed for loading and unloading your boat - NOT to hold your boat on the trailer.
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Old 06-14-10, 06:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abbeysdad View Post
Hmm...my chains hook to the Reese hitch.
I hook the safty chains up to the hitch, which is under the rear bumper. Sorry about the wording.
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Old 06-14-10, 11:46 PM   #30
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I hook the safty chains up to the hitch, which is under the rear bumper. Sorry about the wording.
whew, Good thing
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Old 06-15-10, 07:24 AM   #31
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Thinks his straps would have helped. OUCH

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Old 06-15-10, 12:06 PM   #32
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Thinks his straps would have helped. OUCH

god Lash I was not expecting that great picture and his day was ruined for sure



Jim
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Old 06-15-10, 01:10 PM   #33
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When the strap breaks....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9T2lY...eature=related
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Old 06-15-10, 02:28 PM   #34
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There is no way I would travel any distance without both front and rear tie downs for my boat. I have safety chains that I attach from the trailer to the installed hitch as well as a safety chain that keeps the boat on the trailer should the winch happen to fail or winch strap break. Even though I didn't pay much for my used boat, I still consider it a huge investment. And there is no way I'm going to risk an accident like the one above by ignoring some simple preventative measures.
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Old 06-15-10, 04:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodnreel View Post
There is no way I would travel any distance without both front and rear tie downs for my boat. I have safety chains that I attach from the trailer to the installed hitch as well as a safety chain that keeps the boat on the trailer should the winch happen to fail or winch strap break. Even though I didn't pay much for my used boat, I still consider it a huge investment. And there is no way I'm going to risk an accident like the one above by ignoring some simple preventative measures.
what he said.
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Old 06-16-10, 01:10 PM   #36
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Has anyone tried the new lock n haul product available? Actually, I'm not sure how new it is but I just saw it for the first time yesterday surfing the web. The transom saver I have is starting to chip away at the paint on my lower unit, and this thing seems like it would be easier and less of a hassle to take off/put on every time out.

http://www.lock-n-haul.com/locknhaulproxs.html
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Old 06-16-10, 02:16 PM   #37
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I use one as well. Being that my boat is aluminum, the motor's weight accounts for 40% of the overall weight. With that much weight in the back, I have seen my bow bounce on the roller.
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Old 06-16-10, 07:54 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodnreel View Post
Has anyone tried the new lock n haul product available? Actually, I'm not sure how new it is but I just saw it for the first time yesterday surfing the web. The transom saver I have is starting to chip away at the paint on my lower unit, and this thing seems like it would be easier and less of a hassle to take off/put on every time out.

http://www.lock-n-haul.com/locknhaulproxs.html
I have a super high tech solution: a couple of 2x6" pieces of lumber tied together and I trim down to secure it.
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Old 06-19-10, 02:23 PM   #39
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Abbey, I feel the need to warn you about what you're doing there.

The purpose of a transom saver is to "save the transom". It takes a portion of the outboard's weight (and torque, the real killer) off of the transom. It does this by letting the trailer carry it.

Your block of wood prevents this. I would not be surprised to see your transom start to develop stress cracks.

Seriously, it would be a real shame to see your nice boat get messed up. Go fork out some money and get a good transom saver. Isn't owning a boat fun?
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Old 06-19-10, 04:28 PM   #40
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In the event of a hydraulic failure, a transom saver prevents the lower unit from hitting the ground, effectively saving the transom - if you look at where the rods in that transom saver attach there's no weight transfer to the trailer - effectively it's no different than what I'm doing (which was recommended by my boat dealer).
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Old 06-19-10, 04:29 PM   #41
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Nofear, you have a way better mind for this than me and I agree with the balance of what you are saying, but wouldnt the blocks in some way relieve a little bit of leverage or torque on the uppermost part of the transom?
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Old 06-19-10, 05:57 PM   #42
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Quote:
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but wouldnt the blocks in some way relieve a little bit of leverage or torque on the uppermost part of the transom?
No. If you look at the outboard mount itself, you have to visualize the very bottom of it as the point the engine is going to try to pivot around as it tries to rip itself free of the transom. Kind of like a box tipping on its forward corner when you try to tip it over. While putting a block of wood between the outboard and the mount does indeed keep the keel from hitting the ground, it does not change the pivot point.

Every time you hit a bump on the highway, your outboard is going to push down on your transom. It will also "twist", since the center of gravity of the motor is not directly over the transom. These effects will be much more sudden on the road, as pavement is much harder than water. If you think capping a wave is a jolt, try capping a speed bump sometime.

The point of a yoke-style transom saver is that it transfers weight through it rather than the transom, and counters torque on the

Abbey, you said "if you look at where the rods in that transom saver attach." I don't see a transom saver in your photo.

Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing.



I don't understand how you think this won't transfer some of the weight of the outboard to the trailer. Is it because it's not straight up vertical? Even at 30 degrees from horizontal, the transom saver will carry half of the outboard's weight, and almost completely negate any torque on the transom.
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Old 06-19-10, 06:01 PM   #43
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Okay, Abbey, I saw it now. The thing you were talking about. I agree that your wood blocks would do the exact same thing that one does.

I don't think that's a very good design. Like I was saying, I like the kind that goes from your lower unit to your rear trailer roller. Perfect design.
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Old 06-20-10, 03:39 PM   #44
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Quote:
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This is the way to go, hands down!!

Incidentally, about a month ago within a period of maybe a week and a half, I saw 3 boats being trailered down I 90 with their outboards tilted up and no transom saver of any kind attached. And these were some hefty outboards.
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Old 06-21-10, 09:08 PM   #45
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Winches are designed for loading and unloading your boat - NOT to hold your boat on the trailer.
does any one use the winch for this????
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Old 06-21-10, 10:47 PM   #46
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Listen with an open mind to what this fella has to say about old style transom savers (makes sense to me):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlX1ovPjPNg
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Old 06-21-10, 11:58 PM   #47
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does any one use the winch for this????
Huh? You don't use a winch to get your boat back up on the trailer???
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Old 06-21-10, 11:58 PM   #48
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Pfffft. I don't need an open mind for this. I earned that right when I became proficient at drawing free body diagrams and doing mechanical analysis.

Good salesman. $hitty product.

That guy is one of two things.

1. Painfully ignorant of the laws of physics.
2. Unabashedly dishonest.

I'm going to say this one more time. It's called a transom saver, not a skeg saver, even though it accomplishes both. The contraption this guy is selling should be called a skeg saver, except that might be dishonest too; when the outboard mounting bracket ruptures the transom, the outboard is going to fall on the pavement anyway.

That wedge doesn't change a single thing as far as the transom is concerned. Every single bump you hit is causing a huge torque on your transom, Abbey. I'm seriously not trying to bust your chops here man. I'm trying to help. I've said my piece.
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Old 06-22-10, 09:07 AM   #49
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Im with No Fear. The RIGHT way to do it is the one pictured above that transfers weight to the roller on the trailer. The other product up there still akeeps all teh weight on the transom just in a different way.

When my Dads boat moves it has the winch tightenend down (and no we dont use it for loading and unloading... trust me this boat cannot be winched by the incredible hulk himself unless you back the trailer into teh water far enoough to get the truck bumper wet) a safety strap under the nose, two RodSaver straps hold teh transom to the trailer, and the cover always on (i know every small straps, butit cant hurt to have thos strapped to the trailer too)

As for teh loading unloading.. its a drive on trailer for a reason... i just goose the throttle til the nose eye is against the roller... havent hit it hard enough to break anything so dont worry about that... same for takin it off... simply back it up til teh boat floats free and put it in reverse... so teh winch has zero to do with loading and unloading...
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Old 06-22-10, 09:10 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nofearengineer View Post
I'm going to say this one more time. It's called a transom saver, not a skeg saver, even though it accomplishes both. The contraption this guy is selling should be called a skeg saver, except that might be dishonest too; when the outboard mounting bracket ruptures the transom, the outboard is going to fall on the pavement anyway.

That wedge doesn't change a single thing as far as the transom is concerned. Every single bump you hit is causing a huge torque on your transom, Abbey. I'm seriously not trying to bust your chops here man. I'm trying to help. I've said my piece.
This bass boat owning engineer agrees.

(I also draw a mean free body diagram)
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