09-20-07, 03:12 PM | #1 |
BassFishin.Com Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1
|
Trolling Motor Battery Question?
I have a 2005 Bass Boat which has a straight 24 volt, 71 pound thrust Motor Guide Trolling Motor. Last year, I experienced a problem with one of the two dealer installed trolling motor batteries failing in less than a year of use. The batteries were Interstate Trolling Motor batteries and I was told that they have a reputation for not holding up. I had to replace one of the Interstate Batteries and get a new one. My trolling motor batteries are hooked up to a Dual Pro SE (2) bank charger. Lately after charging my batteries immediately after a fishing trip, the charger lights go to green and the batteries appear charged. Yet, after approximately three to four hours of use, the power drains and I am about running on one battery for the rest of my fishing time. I do not believe it's in my charging system. I was told last time that there was a way to check the battery power to determine if it's the battery, but I can't remember what to do? I need to determine if it's the battery (the remaining old one, or possibly the newest replacement or it might be the charger? Can someone help me? Any information would be appreciated!!
|
09-20-07, 04:50 PM | #2 |
BassFishin.Com Premier Elite
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,655
|
fastlaser will probably know the answer, but I'd check all the battery cables that link the batteries together and to the charger...look for loose connection, or corrision...Just a little word of experience talking here. Anytime you are having electrical problems with a device start at the device first and make sure it is working. Do this with a couple of temporary wires hooked to a battery to make sure its working. Then work back to the switch and/or switches. Not only will you usually find bad connections that you can fix right then but you take out all the variables. Also check your fuse box (if you can locate it) and check the trolling motor pluggin, is it hot?
|
09-20-07, 06:53 PM | #3 |
BassFishin.Com Super Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Avoca, NY
Posts: 3,508
|
2 things that could be wrong . The first being that you bought a cranking battery instead of a trolling battery. The reserve amps are very different between the two. The second is the possibility of you connecting the battery up in the wrong wiriing configuration when you reinstalled the new battery ? positive to positive, negative to negative connection tn both batteries will remain 12 volts. The other obvious answer would be to make sure if you have a guest battery switch in the mix to make sure you do not have it set wrong ? P N J
|
09-22-07, 12:41 AM | #4 |
BassFishin.Com Premier Elite
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 10,141
|
I'd pull both batteries and take them someplace that can check them for you like an auto parts store. You can check them yourself using a hydrometer-the tubes with the colored floats in them-by pulling some of the battery acid into it, but taking them to an auto parts store is easiest.
One thing to keep in mind for the future-when you replace one battery replace both-that might be the problem-hooking up a new and an old battery.
__________________
It's happened to the best of them: John 21:3 |
09-22-07, 01:28 PM | #5 |
BassFishin.Com Super Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lexington,NC-Worlds best BBQ.
Posts: 1,945
|
Go spend some money and get some ac/delco's. Sure a "local dealer" is only a couple miles away but I want my batteries ready at 10:00 at night.
__________________
Lexington,NC. |
09-26-07, 06:07 AM | #6 |
BassFishin.Com Super Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: crossett,arkansas
Posts: 2,777
|
To test your batt charger you need to disconnect both batts so remaining battery voltage will not interfer with your test. After doing this check the voltage coming out of the leads on the charger. Should be above 13volts if charger is working correctly. Getting the batts checked with a hydrometer is a good practice. The hydrometer is available at any auto store for a couple of bucks. MAke sure that the batts are hooked up in SERIES not parelell.
__________________
Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!! |
09-28-07, 08:54 AM | #7 |
BassFishin.Com Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hudson Valley, N.Y.
Posts: 716
|
A couple of suggestions:
What average tm setting are you trolling at? The faster the drain the lower the remaining power. Are you running the aerator constantly versus using a timer? A cheap voltmeter at Walmart can give you a good idea of the sum total charge of 6 cells. A hydrometer gives you the specific gravity of acid (electrolyte) reading per cell and correlates to the voltage number. The total cell charge for all six cells when brand new is usually close to 14 v. (13.75v) If the battery doesn't read over 13v after a deep discharge and recharge, a cell could be bad. The only valid test to see if the battery can hold a charge is a load test which is done for free at most automotive supply stores. It takes 10 minutes but is the most accurate way to test for battery storage capacity. Do you have the largest deep cycle batteries you can fit in your boat vs the smaller ones used for jon boats? I'm sure you're charging after every use no matter how little the tm was used. It's a must for deep cycle batteries. If you have a small short in the system of your electronics, the batteries will slowly draw down. I do and have installed a circuit breaker switch to disconnect my tm/electronic deep cyles from the system while charging. I simple light switch in the positive wire did the trick. Interstate cranking and deep cycle batteries are some of the finest I've owned and last 4 years on average. I dont' store my boat indoors, but charge once every month in winter a recommended. After a full charge, disconnect the parallel wire hook up (ie negative to negative) and see if you get a full charge green light by hooking up each one at a time to the charger. A faster check would be to use the voltmeter and see if total voltage is over 26v. I'm sure you've checked the electrolyte level in each of 12 cells and that you are using an automatic charger that trickles after the charge is full. A charger that fails to trickle or shut off, boils off electrolyte resulting in a fried or cracked plate. Been there, done that in hot weather! Deep cycle battery charging amps should be 8-10 according to battery web site recommendations and some require a booster charge blast in the last part of the charge cycle. 2 amps don't cut it. Sears and some automotive sites offer a 3 year full replacement warrenty on their newest deep cycle batteries, with a pro rate for the next few years. Something to consider, though the batteries (like Optima) are kind of pricey. They have pure lead in the cells and are heavier than a motha', but powerful! More than enough time to see if it's the battery or the electronics/wire gauge/wiring. Last edited by senkosam; 09-28-07 at 09:00 AM. |
Disclosure / Disclaimer
Before acting on the content posted, you should know that BassFishin.Com may benefit financially and otherwise from content, advertising, links or otherwise from anything you click on, read, or look at on our website. Click here to read our Disclosure Policy and Disclaimer. |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|