?s about reels given to me

[Rider]

Today my uncle gave me 4 reels and rods and two tackle boxes full of lures that I never have seen before. I can post pics of the lures when i get another camera if anyone wants to see them.
The reels are: South Bend 135G on a Eagle Claw E1SC Light Action
Johnson Century 100B, No name on rod
Johnson Sa'bra 130A No nmae on rod
Last setup has no brand Information on reel or rod
All rods are 2 peice 5'6'' ,All reels are closed faced reels

I dont want to sell them, I will probaly use them for panfish,They havn't been used for 7-8 years. I know I need to change line.
I have my two Diawa reels that I use every time I go fishing, But will fishing these reels hurt them.
If anyone knows anything about these reels any information would be appreciated.

Thanks

[zooker]

think the sabra was johnson's answer to the zebco 33 but don't quote me.. the should be ok for brim but not a very good bass reel. you will lose alot of accurracy in your cast..

zooker

[Rider]

Since the rod bends almost in half while just casting i kinda felt it wouldnt hold up to bass.Panfish are the only things I plan on using this for, maybe put a live worm out on hook while im workin a crankbait with my baitcasters.

[FlyRod]

Rider,

Given the age of these rigs, you'd best do a serious check on the condition of the guides on the rods, especially if they are so old as to have steel rings. Any nicks, rust, etc, will cause disaster.
Also, the reels, in addition to needing new line (no more than a #10 mono that is limp and supple...see: P-Line CX or Trilene XL.) need a thorough clean and lube. Be certain that the line aperture in the front is burr-free.
To check that and the rod guides, rub a Q-Tip around the opening. If the guide or line opening shows ANY fibers stuck to them or the Q-Tip is frayed...it's all over.
Make sure the little line pick-up pin(s) on the reel rotor is equally smooth.
Make sure you add new line as you would to an open-face spin reel. You will still have twist, but you can reduce or eliminate it in one of two ways.
One: If you have a boat, trail all the line out behind the boat, at about 5 MPH, for at least five minutes, then reel in back on using light tension with thumb and forefinger.
No boat? OK, tie a GOOD ball-bearing snap swivel on the line. Attach a hook to the snap. Hook onto something (not someone) firmly and back away holding the rod at an up angle. Do this on the loosest drag setting and give the rod little yanks as you walk SLOWLY away. Once at the end of the line, tighten the drag and give the line repeated yanks, allowing some slack between jerks. Repeat this exercise until the line, when slack, shows little or no twist or coiling. Reel back in under enough tension to put a SLIGHT bow in a rod held at 45 degrees from vertical. Do NOT reel so hard as to allow the drag to slip. That only creates twist.

FR

[Rider]

Thanks FlyRod, I will try that as soon as I can buy some line. What would cause nicks in the guides, Is that somthing I should look for on my new BPS Rods.

[FlyRod]

Originally Posted by Rider

Thanks FlyRod, I will try that as soon as I can buy some line. What would cause nicks in the guides, Is that somthing I should look for on my new BPS Rods.

Rider,

There are any number of things that can damage guides, especially the older metal ones, even heavy use. Line can pick up abrasives in the water or gather fine dust in transit or storage. Slapping a guide against a hard surface can create a fine crack, and the list goes on. The "Super Braids" can easily groove cheaper, less advanced, guides. And...wet line can leave abrasive deposits in the guides...clean them with vinegar and Q-Tips now and then.
Even a new rod can have a defective guide, so make it a habit to check line for nick and rough spots frequently then seek to determine the cause.

Good Luck,

JW

[Rider]

Thanks, I really need to watch my guides since all I use is braid, All I know about my guides(on both rods,BPS Graphite Series) is that they are aluminum oxide.