how hard is it to change an impeller

bassackwards · 03-18-09, 07:28 PM

i think my water pump is not up to par befor i go taren in to it i would like to know what im getten in to. at idle hardly pumping any water sayes 5 on gage. o and how does the moter keep from geting water in the carbs ?
(i was looken and it,just looked like if water got in that split houseing it would come in the back of the intake plate like if you stoped quick and water came over the back like it does some times)thanks for the info ans sorry for all the questions

WTL · 03-18-09, 07:50 PM

Didn't understand the part about water getting in the carbs, the water tube shouldnt end up anywhere near the carbs.

Replacing the impeller is like a lot of plumbing. If things go right it is an easy 30 minute job.

If you have trouble getting the foot off...well you got to get the foot off. I had to grind a bolt in two to do mine. Also make sure the grommets in the water pump housing and at the bottom of the block are intact or replace them. You might have to pull the head to replace the grommet under the block. As you might be able to see, ideally its easy.

OrygunBasser · 03-18-09, 07:51 PM

Getting a manual for your boat is a must, factory is best but there are others that will do in a pinch. Mercury is easier than OMC, the impellar is smaller and easier for one guy to install, however the omc in the larger engines is a horse and can take two people to get it in the housing. They should be done every two years at least and if you put a lot of hours on it you should do it every year!

And to the other question, The air inlet is higher than you think but it can happen!

zooker · 03-18-09, 07:58 PM

5 psi is normal reading on some gauges.. the whole point is what is your water pressure at wot?... anything over 20 is great..

zooker

bassackwards · 03-18-09, 08:53 PM

with it wide open i get around 15 to 20 on gage

Scott McGehee · 03-19-09, 03:35 PM

if it's a Mercury, anything over 15 at wot is fine.

boater · 03-19-09, 06:03 PM

You won't get alot of water squirt out of a Mercury at an idle

Captmikestarrett · 03-19-09, 06:28 PM

Replacing an impellar on an outboard is a two step process. First squirt the bolts/nuts with liquid wrench. Next day start the lower unit removel.

Vasaline is needed to coat the new impellar and the upper connection of the water pipe. By the way it is possible to install the impellar backwards on Mercs. so remember remember how the impellar was on removal.

The other issue is the speedo tube. Becarefull not break off the nipple to the speedo hose.

One other thing is to lightly sand the drive shaft so the new impeller does not get damaged.

Other than those issues it is not bad..

One last item is the lower unit should just slide up tight without any binds.

Good luck..

Capt Mike

bassackwards · 03-19-09, 07:57 PM

thanks for the info

1FASTLASER · 03-20-09, 09:12 AM

What motor ya got bud. Memory is failing me. After you tell me what motor ya got I will post the complete procedure on how to change it out.

I dont understand what oregonbasser is talkin bout. The impellar on all engines is just about the same to change out ..just a little different procedure is all.

On another note your numbers are just about up to par ..........the idle number is somewhat low for an OMC motor....its ust about right for a Merc or hammer. What I like to see is a good STRONG steam. What I mean is when sitting there in idle in calm water look at where the pee stream is hitting the water. It should be makeing a dent and a good one in the water. Volume is just as important as well as pressure. The 2 are different. You can have decent pressure and be lacking volume.

OrygunBasser · 03-20-09, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1FASTLASER

I dont understand what oregonbasser is talkin bout. The impellar on all engines is just about the same to change out ..just a little different procedure is all.

I had an early (1986) Mercury 150 and the impellar was a lot thinner and a bit smaller and easier to install than my 200 Johnson. Even though I used vasaline, it took two of us to get the new one in. It was a lot stiffer and thicker.

bassackwards · 03-20-09, 05:03 PM

at idle just don't seem like enof volume laser

1FASTLASER · 03-20-09, 09:51 PM

Ok oregon I understand what u are talkin bout now. Here's a little tip for you and others that might help you out the next time around. Use regular old dish soap as a lubricant when installing the new impellar. Not only slippery as owl crap but washes out the instant the outboard is fired up. Another little bit of info ......when installing the impellar after you have it seated on the bottom housing plate.....slide the impellar housing down to the impellar and get 2 or 3 of the impellar blades just started into the housing. Now as you apply slight pressure downward on the impellar housing turn the driveshaft. The housing will drop over the impellar as you do this. Works like a charm even on the stiffer shorter impellar blades of the OMC outboards you are refeerring to. I own one and know what you are talking about.

Bassackwards
If memory serves me right you have a 150 on the Winner hull correct???.......OK here is my recommend. First thing I would do is inspect the T-stats and the pitot valve. If you dont have a manual for your engine gimme a holler and I will hunt up the illustration for you and post it up. The t-stats have prolly never been cleaned and servied. Servicing normally is no more than cleaning up ....removing any weeds etc that have found there way in.....installing new gaskets and reassembling. After that fire her up again and see if its not better. Then if it still seems to be lacking the volume we are talking about I would suspect the housing more than the impellar itself. CHANGE BOTH...........the impellar and hosuing come as a kit and for approx $35 from mercpartsexpress.com...plus shipping of course.

boater · 03-21-09, 12:03 PM

My promax at an idle ,as well as opti maxs I have seen barely spit a little more than dropletts at an idle. do you have a temp guage?if so watch it,see what you have .volume is not everything thermostats are in there to hold water back to get to running temp.
I removed mine once and was told to reinstall them tio keep motor from locing up in COLD water

Just my $.02

bassackwards · 03-21-09, 01:18 PM

i don't have a temp gage (seen a spot on the head that looked like one went there but no wire ill take a pic to show yall

bassackwards · 03-21-09, 02:21 PM

ok i got 3 pic's first at idle about 1000 rpm, second were i think a temp gage wires up,and 3 a bernt wire i don't know what it does just found it think might be for high temp alarme

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/w...9/HPIM0484.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/w...9/HPIM0485.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/w...9/HPIM0486.jpg

bassackwards · 03-21-09, 02:26 PM

o yea and at about 3050 rpm im getten 15psi on gage.
don't know y but the damn thing seems to be doen better to day than before

03-18-09, 07:28 PM	#1
bassackwards BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: hampton va Posts: 408	how hard is it to change an impeller i think my water pump is not up to par befor i go taren in to it i would like to know what im getten in to. at idle hardly pumping any water sayes 5 on gage. o and how does the moter keep from geting water in the carbs ? (i was looken and it,just looked like if water got in that split houseing it would come in the back of the intake plate like if you stoped quick and water came over the back like it does some times)thanks for the info ans sorry for all the questions

03-18-09, 07:50 PM	#2
WTL BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Huntsville, Al Posts: 7,466	Didn't understand the part about water getting in the carbs, the water tube shouldnt end up anywhere near the carbs. Replacing the impeller is like a lot of plumbing. If things go right it is an easy 30 minute job. If you have trouble getting the foot off...well you got to get the foot off. I had to grind a bolt in two to do mine. Also make sure the grommets in the water pump housing and at the bottom of the block are intact or replace them. You might have to pull the head to replace the grommet under the block. As you might be able to see, ideally its easy. __________________ Selling live waterdogs for less since 2005.

03-18-09, 07:51 PM	#3
OrygunBasser BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Lakeside, Oregon Posts: 159	Getting a manual for your boat is a must, factory is best but there are others that will do in a pinch. Mercury is easier than OMC, the impellar is smaller and easier for one guy to install, however the omc in the larger engines is a horse and can take two people to get it in the housing. They should be done every two years at least and if you put a lot of hours on it you should do it every year! And to the other question, The air inlet is higher than you think but it can happen! __________________ You may practice catch and release as a religion but that doesn't mean that the next person has to bow down to your god!

03-18-09, 07:58 PM	#4
zooker BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: denton nc Posts: 13,441	5 psi is normal reading on some gauges.. the whole point is what is your water pressure at wot?... anything over 20 is great.. zooker __________________ the godfather.. aml in remission since 7-20-09

03-19-09, 06:28 PM	#8
Captmikestarrett BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: May 2006 Location: Accokeek MD Posts: 3,315	Replacing an impellar on an outboard is a two step process. First squirt the bolts/nuts with liquid wrench. Next day start the lower unit removel. Vasaline is needed to coat the new impellar and the upper connection of the water pipe. By the way it is possible to install the impellar backwards on Mercs. so remember remember how the impellar was on removal. The other issue is the speedo tube. Becarefull not break off the nipple to the speedo hose. One other thing is to lightly sand the drive shaft so the new impeller does not get damaged. Other than those issues it is not bad.. One last item is the lower unit should just slide up tight without any binds. Good luck.. Capt Mike __________________ Capt Mike Starrett light tackle guide Potomac River http://www.indianheadcharters.com

03-18-09, 08:53 PM	#5
bassackwards BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: hampton va Posts: 408	with it wide open i get around 15 to 20 on gage

03-19-09, 03:35 PM	#6
Scott McGehee BassFishin.Com Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Madison, MS Posts: 18	if it's a Mercury, anything over 15 at wot is fine.

03-19-09, 06:03 PM	#7
boater BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: O'Fallon Missouri Posts: 283	You won't get alot of water squirt out of a Mercury at an idle

03-19-09, 07:57 PM	#9
bassackwards BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: hampton va Posts: 408	thanks for the info

03-20-09, 09:12 AM	#10
1FASTLASER BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: crossett,arkansas Posts: 2,777	What motor ya got bud. Memory is failing me. After you tell me what motor ya got I will post the complete procedure on how to change it out. I dont understand what oregonbasser is talkin bout. The impellar on all engines is just about the same to change out ..just a little different procedure is all. On another note your numbers are just about up to par ..........the idle number is somewhat low for an OMC motor....its ust about right for a Merc or hammer. What I like to see is a good STRONG steam. What I mean is when sitting there in idle in calm water look at where the pee stream is hitting the water. It should be makeing a dent and a good one in the water. Volume is just as important as well as pressure. The 2 are different. You can have decent pressure and be lacking volume. __________________ Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!!

03-20-09, 05:03 PM	#12
bassackwards BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: hampton va Posts: 408	at idle just don't seem like enof volume laser

03-20-09, 09:51 PM	#13
1FASTLASER BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: crossett,arkansas Posts: 2,777	Ok oregon I understand what u are talkin bout now. Here's a little tip for you and others that might help you out the next time around. Use regular old dish soap as a lubricant when installing the new impellar. Not only slippery as owl crap but washes out the instant the outboard is fired up. Another little bit of info ......when installing the impellar after you have it seated on the bottom housing plate.....slide the impellar housing down to the impellar and get 2 or 3 of the impellar blades just started into the housing. Now as you apply slight pressure downward on the impellar housing turn the driveshaft. The housing will drop over the impellar as you do this. Works like a charm even on the stiffer shorter impellar blades of the OMC outboards you are refeerring to. I own one and know what you are talking about. Bassackwards If memory serves me right you have a 150 on the Winner hull correct???.......OK here is my recommend. First thing I would do is inspect the T-stats and the pitot valve. If you dont have a manual for your engine gimme a holler and I will hunt up the illustration for you and post it up. The t-stats have prolly never been cleaned and servied. Servicing normally is no more than cleaning up ....removing any weeds etc that have found there way in.....installing new gaskets and reassembling. After that fire her up again and see if its not better. Then if it still seems to be lacking the volume we are talking about I would suspect the housing more than the impellar itself. CHANGE BOTH...........the impellar and hosuing come as a kit and for approx $35 from mercpartsexpress.com...plus shipping of course. __________________ Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!!

03-21-09, 12:03 PM	#14
boater BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: O'Fallon Missouri Posts: 283	My promax at an idle ,as well as opti maxs I have seen barely spit a little more than dropletts at an idle. do you have a temp guage?if so watch it,see what you have .volume is not everything thermostats are in there to hold water back to get to running temp. I removed mine once and was told to reinstall them tio keep motor from locing up in COLD water Just my $.02

03-21-09, 01:18 PM	#15
bassackwards BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: hampton va Posts: 408	i don't have a temp gage (seen a spot on the head that looked like one went there but no wire ill take a pic to show yall

03-21-09, 02:21 PM	#16
bassackwards BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: hampton va Posts: 408	ok i got 3 pic's first at idle about 1000 rpm, second were i think a temp gage wires up,and 3 a bernt wire i don't know what it does just found it think might be for high temp alarme http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/w...9/HPIM0484.jpg http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/w...9/HPIM0485.jpg http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/w...9/HPIM0486.jpg

03-21-09, 02:26 PM	#17
bassackwards BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: hampton va Posts: 408	o yea and at about 3050 rpm im getten 15psi on gage. don't know y but the damn thing seems to be doen better to day than before

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