Question for lure crafters.

keithdog · 01-22-11, 12:27 PM

I am toying around with making my own popper just for the fun of it and to see how it would work out. My question is with my choice of wood. I want a 3-31/2 inch heavy popper for extra long casting distances. I'm planning to use a section of an oak doll rod. I never have read of anyone using oak for lure making. Any reason why oak wouldn't work before I start carving?

WaffleJaw · 01-22-11, 12:41 PM

It should be perfectly fine!...I seen several oak body baits from custom lure makers...It should be extremely durable being a hardwood.I read carving it is a pain though,lol.

Good luck,others can probably point you in a better direction...post pics!!

keithdog · 01-22-11, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaffleJaw

I read carving it is a pain though,lol.

Good luck,others can probably point you in a better direction...post pics!!

I'm expecting that. My main concern with body shaping will be getting the scooped out mouth shaped right. Not sure what the best way to do that would be. Maybe a large drill bit on a drill press?

WaffleJaw · 01-22-11, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithdog

I'm expecting that. My main concern with body shaping will be getting the scooped out mouth shaped right. Not sure what the best way to do that would be. Maybe a large drill bit on a drill press?

Dremmel with a round sanding bit and clamp...Or maybe wrapping sand paper around a drillbit to mimic that maybe?

bassboogieman · 01-22-11, 02:27 PM

Cedar would be more "traditonal", and oak is very hard to carve or shape with Dremel bits. Not that it cannot be done but it's much more time consuming. Pine would be another choice but the issue there is with the grain. Softer woods are much easier to shape, like bass (it would really be a BASS lure, LOL) or gum. There are a wide selection of bits for Dermel type tools. I have dozens, that I used for decoy carving, from rough basic forming bits to ruby or diamond grit for fine finishing. They come in a selection of shapes also like round ball, cylinder and conical. Most can be found where Dremel's are sold.

CamG · 01-22-11, 02:55 PM

One thing to consider with Oak is that once you add paint and hardware, it may be just under the waters surface because of the weight, and density of the wood. A guy in my old club used to make homemade Spooks out of Oak and Cocobolo. They would walk the dog just under the surface.

keithdog · 01-22-11, 07:05 PM

All good info here. Thanks! I don't own a Dremel tool, but a guy I work with has one I may be able to borrow. I'm sure it will be harder to carve and shape, but I figure I can get the basic shape and then use my electric griding wheel to finish the job. I've done that before with wood and it works pretty well. Then hand sand it afterwards. Since I'm looking for a heavier wood, that would rule out pine and balsa for now. But it's all an experiment anyways. Something to mess with while it's mid winter.

islandbass · 01-22-11, 09:26 PM

Right on, Keithdog! Basswood is decent too but don't go longer than 3.5" length. You can use any wood you want within the limits of its buoyancy. Also some woods are softer and therefore my convenient to work with.

I devised a very simple process to achieve the taper of a popper's tail without a lathe or power tools. If you're interested, click on the link below. It is my low tech but effective way to do it.

http://washingtonfishing.ning.com/pr...theless-popper

I just want to say that you are very wise in choosing a popper. They are among the easiest IMHO to make as a beginning lure maker, with prop baits too. There is not going to be any need to ballast the bait.

Keep us posted on your progress and don't hesitate to ask me here or pm me with any questions.

bigbasser · 01-22-11, 10:00 PM

P/M sent. bigbasser

keithdog · 01-23-11, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by islandbass

Right on, Keithdog! Basswood is decent too but don't go longer than 3.5" length. You can use any wood you want within the limits of its buoyancy. Also some woods are softer and therefore my convenient to work with.

I devised a very simple process to achieve the taper of a popper's tail without a lathe or power tools. If you're interested, click on the link below. It is my low tech but effective way to do it.

http://washingtonfishing.ning.com/pr...theless-popper

I just want to say that you are very wise in choosing a popper. They are among the easiest IMHO to make as a beginning lure maker, with prop baits too. There is not going to be any need to ballast the bait.

Keep us posted on your progress and don't hesitate to ask me here or pm me with any questions.

Thanks for the info! I'll be sure to check it out.

01-22-11, 12:27 PM	#1
keithdog BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: IN Posts: 8,308	Question for lure crafters. I am toying around with making my own popper just for the fun of it and to see how it would work out. My question is with my choice of wood. I want a 3-31/2 inch heavy popper for extra long casting distances. I'm planning to use a section of an oak doll rod. I never have read of anyone using oak for lure making. Any reason why oak wouldn't work before I start carving?

01-22-11, 12:41 PM	#2
WaffleJaw BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas,TX (DFW) Posts: 2,212	It should be perfectly fine!...I seen several oak body baits from custom lure makers...It should be extremely durable being a hardwood.I read carving it is a pain though,lol. Good luck,others can probably point you in a better direction...post pics!! __________________ [nelsoncustomrods.com]

01-22-11, 09:26 PM	#8
islandbass BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: WA State Posts: 1,783	Right on, Keithdog! Basswood is decent too but don't go longer than 3.5" length. You can use any wood you want within the limits of its buoyancy. Also some woods are softer and therefore my convenient to work with. I devised a very simple process to achieve the taper of a popper's tail without a lathe or power tools. If you're interested, click on the link below. It is my low tech but effective way to do it. http://washingtonfishing.ning.com/pr...theless-popper I just want to say that you are very wise in choosing a popper. They are among the easiest IMHO to make as a beginning lure maker, with prop baits too. There is not going to be any need to ballast the bait. Keep us posted on your progress and don't hesitate to ask me here or pm me with any questions. __________________ ARX "If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there'd be a shortage of fishing poles." Doug Larson (Shimano 2005 Reel Catalog)

01-22-11, 10:00 PM	#9
bigbasser BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Posts: 154	wood P/M sent. bigbasser

01-22-11, 02:27 PM	#5
bassboogieman BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Parkesburg, Pa. Posts: 3,762	Cedar would be more "traditonal", and oak is very hard to carve or shape with Dremel bits. Not that it cannot be done but it's much more time consuming. Pine would be another choice but the issue there is with the grain. Softer woods are much easier to shape, like bass (it would really be a BASS lure, LOL) or gum. There are a wide selection of bits for Dermel type tools. I have dozens, that I used for decoy carving, from rough basic forming bits to ruby or diamond grit for fine finishing. They come in a selection of shapes also like round ball, cylinder and conical. Most can be found where Dremel's are sold.

01-22-11, 02:55 PM	#6
CamG BassFishin.Com Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Superior, NE Posts: 974	One thing to consider with Oak is that once you add paint and hardware, it may be just under the waters surface because of the weight, and density of the wood. A guy in my old club used to make homemade Spooks out of Oak and Cocobolo. They would walk the dog just under the surface.

01-22-11, 07:05 PM	#7
keithdog BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: IN Posts: 8,308	All good info here. Thanks! I don't own a Dremel tool, but a guy I work with has one I may be able to borrow. I'm sure it will be harder to carve and shape, but I figure I can get the basic shape and then use my electric griding wheel to finish the job. I've done that before with wood and it works pretty well. Then hand sand it afterwards. Since I'm looking for a heavier wood, that would rule out pine and balsa for now. But it's all an experiment anyways. Something to mess with while it's mid winter.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)