Installing new bunk boards

bassfisher · 03-19-12, 11:46 AM

Just wondering what size bit to use when predrilling the bolts you'll be useing? (Say you are useing a 1/4 thick bolt, what size bit would you use, one or two size smaller, also would you use wood glue to help it stay anchored?) Thanks in advance for your help!

MississippiBoy · 03-19-12, 12:17 PM

I'm right in the middle of the same project, so here's my $.02.
Are you screwing the brackets straight to the board with a lag screw or something similar? That's the way my trailer came from the factory. To predrill, I would go down probably 2 sizes....need to make sure the threads get a good solid bite. Wood glue or something sure wouldn't hurt. Might not help, but can't hurt....
I'm doing it a little differently. I'm using 3/8" stainless bolts, nuts, and lock washers. I believe this will last longer than lag screws. I start with a 3/4" bit and drill about half and inch deep to countersink the head of the bolt and the washer. This will be the top side, so the carpet will go over the heads of the bolts. I then drill a 3/8" for the bolt to go through. Put the bracket on the other side, with another fender washer, and a lock washer, then the nut.

mhtranger · 03-19-12, 07:50 PM

Mississippi, might want to put some kind of sealant or thompson's water sealer in the holes to protect the new wood. That counter bore will hold water and rot out the wood. Just my .02 worth.
David

nobass · 03-19-12, 07:54 PM

only thing i would and is some locktite to the bolts brfore i tighten down the nuts little extra security

MississippiBoy · 03-19-12, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhtranger

Mississippi, might want to put some kind of sealant or thompson's water sealer in the holes to protect the new wood. That counter bore will hold water and rot out the wood. Just my .02 worth.
David

I hadn't thought of that, but I'm using pressure treated wood.....you think I'll still need sealant?

Bubba_Bruiser · 03-20-12, 12:40 AM

You know how QC is in products these days. If you have enough, cut a piece off and see if the treated material is injected through wood or if it is dry and lighter in the center.

bassfisher · 03-20-12, 06:36 AM

Okay, you got me, what is QC?? I know lowes won't cut the 6 2x4's for us on the treated wood. Heck, I even had a brain cramp last night reading your guys replies, and came up with useing marine silicone on the lag bolts I'll be useing. What ya think guys? I was also reading that the drill bit we use should not be bigger then the center of the bolt, you to be able to see all the threads, but not the center of the bolts, and only drill half the bolt length that will be drilled into the wood. (If your useing lag bolts that is, heck it might not hurt to do that even if you'll be use bolts, like Mississippi above)

mhtranger · 03-20-12, 06:47 AM

QC is quality control. I would still use some kind of sealer or see if Lowes sells a treatment that you put on cut pressure treated wood. Any time you make a cut on PT you need to seal up the cut.

bassfisher · 03-20-12, 06:49 AM

You mean on the ends of the boards? Well I'm heading out to go trout fishing, see ya guys later on this evening.

mhtranger · 03-20-12, 07:12 AM

Yes ends and anywhere you cut into the board. Good luck today and TIGHT LINES!!

Captmikestarrett · 03-20-12, 07:58 PM

Yes silicon sealant on the lags is good. Drill size for pre-drill should equal the shaft of the lag minus the threads. Once affixed I suggest AWLGRIP spar on all wood surfaces.

The spar is your best choice as it reflects high sun. And stays cools to touch.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50263

Capt Mike

bluebasser86 · 03-21-12, 07:09 PM

Not to hijack the thread but has anyone tried any of the non-wood bunk boards? I need to replace mine and I'm getting tired of doing it and was thinking about giving them a try.
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/gpage.html

gysgthard · 03-22-12, 11:58 AM

I have just replace mine and it was the same cost to have the boat trailer factory replace them or if I did them and it was done by people who do it all the time it cost $150 for all four of them and done in one day. May want to check in to that.

03-19-12, 11:46 AM	#1
bassfisher BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Nicholasville Ky Posts: 275	Installing new bunk boards Just wondering what size bit to use when predrilling the bolts you'll be useing? (Say you are useing a 1/4 thick bolt, what size bit would you use, one or two size smaller, also would you use wood glue to help it stay anchored?) Thanks in advance for your help!

03-19-12, 12:17 PM	#2
MississippiBoy BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: May 2007 Location: Ridgeland MS Posts: 3,923	I'm right in the middle of the same project, so here's my $.02. Are you screwing the brackets straight to the board with a lag screw or something similar? That's the way my trailer came from the factory. To predrill, I would go down probably 2 sizes....need to make sure the threads get a good solid bite. Wood glue or something sure wouldn't hurt. Might not help, but can't hurt.... I'm doing it a little differently. I'm using 3/8" stainless bolts, nuts, and lock washers. I believe this will last longer than lag screws. I start with a 3/4" bit and drill about half and inch deep to countersink the head of the bolt and the washer. This will be the top side, so the carpet will go over the heads of the bolts. I then drill a 3/8" for the bolt to go through. Put the bracket on the other side, with another fender washer, and a lock washer, then the nut. __________________ I smell smoke, and I hear sirens. Do you think that's a problem?

03-19-12, 07:54 PM	#4
nobass BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: clarksville, tn, Posts: 1,690	only thing i would and is some locktite to the bolts brfore i tighten down the nuts little extra security __________________ the only easy day was yesterday

03-20-12, 12:40 AM	#6
Bubba_Bruiser BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: South MS Posts: 3,659	You know how QC is in products these days. If you have enough, cut a piece off and see if the treated material is injected through wood or if it is dry and lighter in the center. __________________ \,,,,/ ROCK ON! HRN4L!

03-20-12, 06:36 AM	#7
bassfisher BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Nicholasville Ky Posts: 275	Okay, you got me, what is QC?? I know lowes won't cut the 6 2x4's for us on the treated wood. Heck, I even had a brain cramp last night reading your guys replies, and came up with useing marine silicone on the lag bolts I'll be useing. What ya think guys? I was also reading that the drill bit we use should not be bigger then the center of the bolt, you to be able to see all the threads, but not the center of the bolts, and only drill half the bolt length that will be drilled into the wood. (If your useing lag bolts that is, heck it might not hurt to do that even if you'll be use bolts, like Mississippi above) Last edited by bassfisher; 03-20-12 at 06:47 AM.

03-19-12, 07:50 PM	#3
mhtranger BassFishin.Com Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 13	Mississippi, might want to put some kind of sealant or thompson's water sealer in the holes to protect the new wood. That counter bore will hold water and rot out the wood. Just my .02 worth. David

03-20-12, 06:47 AM	#8
mhtranger BassFishin.Com Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 13	QC is quality control. I would still use some kind of sealer or see if Lowes sells a treatment that you put on cut pressure treated wood. Any time you make a cut on PT you need to seal up the cut.

03-20-12, 06:49 AM	#9
bassfisher BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Nicholasville Ky Posts: 275	You mean on the ends of the boards? Well I'm heading out to go trout fishing, see ya guys later on this evening.

03-20-12, 07:12 AM	#10
mhtranger BassFishin.Com Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 13	Yes ends and anywhere you cut into the board. Good luck today and TIGHT LINES!!

03-20-12, 07:58 PM	#11
Captmikestarrett BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: May 2006 Location: Accokeek MD Posts: 3,315	Yes silicon sealant on the lags is good. Drill size for pre-drill should equal the shaft of the lag minus the threads. Once affixed I suggest AWLGRIP spar on all wood surfaces. The spar is your best choice as it reflects high sun. And stays cools to touch. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50263 Capt Mike __________________ Capt Mike Starrett light tackle guide Potomac River http://www.indianheadcharters.com

03-21-12, 07:09 PM	#12
bluebasser86 BassFishin.Com Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Gardner, KS Posts: 605	Not to hijack the thread but has anyone tried any of the non-wood bunk boards? I need to replace mine and I'm getting tired of doing it and was thinking about giving them a try. http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/gpage.html

03-22-12, 11:58 AM	#13
gysgthard BassFishin.Com Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 63	I have just replace mine and it was the same cost to have the boat trailer factory replace them or if I did them and it was done by people who do it all the time it cost $150 for all four of them and done in one day. May want to check in to that.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)