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Old 06-12-06, 10:52 PM   #1
treehugger8
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Default Diawa

I bought a new diawa team viento reel and tonight the twitching bar doesnt go back up after pressing it in. Has anyone had this problem and what should i do???
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Old 06-12-06, 10:59 PM   #2
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Don't push it down so hard-go easy on the trigger. The thumb bar also puts the reel in freespool so you can cast with it. Push it easy and it twitches the bait. Push it hard and you are in freespool.
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Old 06-12-06, 11:08 PM   #3
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Well it just stays down nearly touching the spool. Is that what is suppose to do. I got it only like 4 days ago. It just did that today
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Old 06-12-06, 11:12 PM   #4
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If it just started doing it I'd take it back and exchange it.
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Old 06-12-06, 11:14 PM   #5
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Ok i may do that i will spend time casting and seeing if what u said works and if not im taking it back
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Old 06-13-06, 06:23 PM   #6
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Shoulda bought a Shimano

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Old 06-13-06, 07:22 PM   #7
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Ever since that reel came out I´ve been saying in other forums: "Until time proves me wrong I´m shure that the first thing that´s going to break and/or malfunction is that Twitching Bar on top of the reel".
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Old 06-13-06, 08:16 PM   #8
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Mike Iconelli endorsed it. Never give up. I haven't fooled with it, one of the few I haven't of the Daiwas.I don't like the concept of the function.As Raul stated, in my opinion, its just something more to go wrong with the reel. Keep it simple and the Daiwas are Bulletproof.Lizards,note: I chalked one up for ya.Just waitin' for your sidekick ILL.Bassin to post his revue.I think thats the word I am thinking of ? Sabotage on the Daiwa name should not be chalked up, but none the less, it was tallied in the count. I was just biding my time for you to come through for the thread. P N J
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Old 06-13-06, 09:33 PM   #9
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Daiwa makes great "regular" stuff, reels like the TDZ, TDX, TDS ( just to mention some ) are wonderful pieces of machinery, it´s when Daiwa gets "innovative" when things begin to get sour, anybody remember Daiwa´s Innerline rods ? what a load a hooey, anybody remembers Daiwa´s computerized reel ? another load of hooey, those were innovative designs, well thought, the concept was brilliant but.........you don´t see them anymore do you ? the more you add the more things go wrong.
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Old 06-14-06, 04:54 AM   #10
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i agree the diawa reels are good reels that is. till the keep it simple stupid rule comes under fire.. i have had no problems with either team diawa reels i use..

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Old 06-14-06, 10:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul
it´s when Daiwa gets "innovative" when things begin to get sour, anybody remembers Daiwa´s computerized reel ? another load of hooey, those were innovative designs, well thought, the concept was brilliant but.........you don´t see them anymore do you ? the more you add the more things go wrong.
Raul heres a pic of a computerized reel. I havnt heard a bad word about one yet and the few people I know that have them say they are unreal.



Lizards thats 2 for us
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Old 06-14-06, 12:13 PM   #12
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Ok what sould i do trade it in for a diff one??
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Old 06-14-06, 12:17 PM   #13
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The problems with Daiwa´s computerized reel were:

The computer which was supposed to tell you the length of your cast and how much line you were reeling in never worked.

The levelwind was nothing you had seen before, instead of being one piece it was 2 pieces, when you pressed the line release button both pieces separated sideways, when you turned the handle both pieces came back together....... if you were lucky, many times only one piece came back to the middle, others when both pieces came together they caught up the line, after a couple of months of use the springs that moved both pieces broke. In other words, a complete failure.
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Old 06-14-06, 12:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IL.bassin
Raul heres a pic of a computerized reel. I havnt heard a bad word about one yet and the few people I know that have them say they are unreal.



Lizards thats 2 for us
the reason is,that`s a shimano.
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Old 06-14-06, 12:22 PM   #15
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treehugger,what did it cost?
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Old 06-14-06, 02:13 PM   #16
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I heard that the thumbar on that particular reel was for twitch baits. I just move the rod. In the event that you get another reel, I would suggest a Quantum PT Energy Series in the 2005 model. But thats an opinionated statement.
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Old 06-14-06, 06:33 PM   #17
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Ok thanks guys i traded it in for a new diawa sol. I payed 180 for the team v. and the sol was 220. I didnt have to pay the 220 tho they just gave it to me because i was mad. I saved about 50$$$$. Thanks
Woody
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Old 06-15-06, 11:45 AM   #18
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I was given a Viento as a (VERY) surprise gift. So far, I find it casts well, is whisper quiet, smooth as a baby's bottom, and the twitch bar works as advertised...when I remember it's there.
I'm still determining which tactic it will be most useful for but my guess is either shorthopping a jig or using it for Carolina rigging...which I seldom employ. In any event it's a low-fat and high-quality reel that serves in the conventional mode every bit so well as my 200BSFs, Daiwa 153HST, and Chronarch 50MGs. No complaints.
Let's not rush to judgement. After all, they laughed at Orville and Wilbur too.

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Old 06-15-06, 12:47 PM   #19
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I'd tear it apart and look if theres a spring that has come loose,
Hopefully you’ve never been in the middle of a heated battle with a potential trophy fish and had your reel lock up or other equipment malfunction.


But it happens and almost always while an angler is locked into a mano-a-mano confrontation with something big. The sad thing is many of these incidents could be prevented by showing equipment a little love and respect.

Call it “R&R love” or whatever you want, but fishing equipment needs the same care and maintenance as a boat, motor, truck or other mechanical equipment. If anglers don’t service their tackle, it’ll eventually fail, usually at the worst possible time.

Who would constantly drive a truck without changing the oil? Don’t expect more out of fishing equipment just because you paid less for it than a stump-jumper.
it’s a good time to service and repair fishing equipment. Even then, a couple of late-winter fishing opportunities exist so anglers might not want to have all their reels laid out across the work bench at the same time. But still, it takes a great weather window to fish during February.
So here are some of the basics for servicing fishing reels. It’s not rocket science, but a task anyone with basic mechanical skills and a few tools can do with ease. However, if you feel intimidated or unsure, most tackle shops will do this work or serve as collection centers for someone who does.
Just as not knowing the law isn’t an excuse for breaking it, a lack of mechanical ability isn’t an excuse for ignoring rods and reels.
Show them some love and make sure they are treated correctly. They’ll repay you many times during fishing season.
Proper care of a reel begins immediately out of the box.
for various reasons, one being as simple as not wanting to take a chance and soil the box, reels are shipped with an absolute minimum of grease. They have a touch of grease at key points and will be plenty smooth for an in-store test spin.
unfortunately they may not last through a single large fish, without being properly greased. The next step in properly caring for your rods and reels is washing them after every use. This is exponentially more important when fishing in salt water, but even fresh water equipment needs to be washed and rinsed.
Most fishermen really mean well when they wash their equipment, unfortunately, they just think, as in so many other things, water pressure is the key and it’s directly opposite.
The proper way to wash a reel is with it in gear, at a normal drag setting, with low water pressure and using a misting spray. Too much water pressure and/or disengaged gears or low drag settings could allow water, salt, grit, and other unwanted substances into the reel.
Use the water at low pressure to wet and rinse reels. A soft rag or cleaning mitt, a mild salt-removing soap and just a little bit of elbow grease are the tools for cleaning rods and reels.
Washing and cleaning is just an exterior preventative and reels still will need regular servicing. For the average fisherman, once a year is probably enough for a thorough inside cleaning and servicing. If you use your equipment on a near daily basis or subject it to extreme stress, it’ll require more frequent internal cleaning and servicing.
Those extra cleanings and greasing may not be necessary for everyone, but it’s far better to err on the side of caution. Going too far between good internal cleanings and lubrication is a recipe for lost fish, raging tempers and high blood pressure. It’s too easy to do to have to worry about it.
If you have any mechanical ability at all, you should be able to do your own reel cleaning and servicing. Some reels feature complex assemblies, but all come with an exploded parts list that’s helpful for taking reels apart and even more helpful for reassembling them.
I service my reels for several reasons, primarily because (a) I know how to do it, and (b) I know whom to blame if I have a reel failure.
If you service your own reels, always remember this rule: never, never, never use gasoline to clean reels.
Even the exteriors of reels have plastic and rubber fittings and other parts that can be irreparably damaged by harsh solvents such as gasoline.
However, kerosene works well as an all-purpose reel solvent. It has an oil base, with slight lubricating properties, and can be used inside and out.
The first step to service a reel is to clean the exterior. Even casual fishermen should change line at least once a year. When servicing a reel is an excellent time to remove old line and see if there’s any corrosion underneath.
The second step is to open the reel. Anglers should follow several basic steps, regardless of the brand or type of reel.
First, clean all the goop and gunk out of the reel. Problems may be hidden in or underneath an accumulation of goop. After removing the gunk from the reel’s interior, you can examine the parts for wear and/or corrosion.
The only repair for severe wear is replacement. A mild solvent, such kerosene, some elbow grease, and very fine grit emery cloth or extra fine steel wool often will remove minor corrosion without scoring or scratching the parts to the point of needing replacement.
Once a reel has been cleaned and worn parts replaced, lubricate the interior before reassembly. My favorite lubricant for most fishing reels is one of the lighter, white, waterproof Teflon greases which cling well, lubricate and protect the reel without forming “goop.”
Some heavier lubricants that work well with larger trolling reels actually cling to the shafts, bearings and gears so well they can hamper the reels’ casting ability and shouldn’t be used with smaller casting reels.
I spoke with several guides, tournament and surf anglers who require extreme casting distance from their reels and they recommended graphite-based products. They said a reel may need more frequent cleaning and servicing, but the slicker qualities of graphite really reduce friction on the bearings and spools and allow for longer casts.

A few aspects of different types of reels require special attention. With spinning reels, gears and drag washers are of the utmost importance. Most heavier spinning reels have front-drag systems where the drag washers are enclosed in the spool and adjusted by a knob at the front of the spool.
The next most-common spinning-reel drag system, used mainly with lighter reels, is a rear drag, where the drag is adjusted by a knob at the rear of the reel. Drag washers may be located in the spool or in the body of the reel.
Live-liner spinning reels are more complex and use a combination of front (fish fighting drag) and rear (bait presentation) drags.
Other spinning-reel components that often get overlooked and result in problems are the bearing under the line roller and the spring that produces tension for the bail.
Most conventional or “bait- casting” reels utilize a star-type drag adjuster and are pretty close in design and parts.
While I never had it happen, I’ve heard that with extreme use, graphite-bodied reels may warp. Graphite that’s reinforced with metal isn’t as susceptible to warping, and the metal-bodied reels just don’t warp.
However, during reassembly, make sure all the parts line up correctly. A difficult or forced fit is usually a sign of incorrect reassembly but could indicate warping of the reel body.
Also, pay special attention to the springs in conventional reels. Most conventional reels have either one or a pair of springs that keep the anti-reverse mechanism working.
The other spring in conventional reels is the free-spool spring. This spring, which allows disengaging the spool from the drag mechanism, must be clean, at the proper tension, and function in order to cast the reel. The grease on the springs is typically a light coating used as much to prevent corrosion as for lubrication.
Generally, drag systems of conventional reels use several alternating fiber and metal drag washers. Corrosion on the metal drag washers usually cleans fairly easily, but if it doesn’t, replacing them is a good idea. Unless corrosion or wear is severe, anglers can clean metal drag washers and replace fiber ones. For most reels, the cost of a set of the fiber drag washers is quite reasonable.
Lever-drag conventional reels are durable but have a different internal design and their own special needs for cleaning and lubrication. Be especially careful washing lever-drag reels, as using high pressure or washing the reel in free spool, can force water and gunk around the edge of the spool and into the reel’s internal parts.
Many parts, especially the metal drive plate can rust and/or pit from exposure to water. After you clean the drive plate, especially if there’s any pitting or corrosion, it’s important to use a very light (600 grit) emery cloth and polish it to prevent recurring rust and/or pitting.
Lever-drag reels have another primary spring — the tensioning spring in the drag preset knob assembly — to clean, examine and lubricate. The proper tension of this spring is necessary to prevent the preset assembly from rotating and altering the drag setting.
With regular and proper cleaning and servicing, reels will last quite a while. This task also is a good winter project anglers can perform.
A secondary result in servicing reels is gaining knowledge of how they work. If you understand how reels operate, you may be able to prevent problems or quickly repair them when they do.
Proper cleaning and service of fishing equipment is a must. It’s just machinery and could fail without warning, but treating it poorly is just asking for problems — which always seem to occur at the absolute worst times.

Last edited by JB; 06-15-06 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 06-15-06, 03:50 PM   #20
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"Let's not rush to judgement. After all, they laughed at Orville"

I hope you are talking about Redenbacher, because it just took me two bags of popcorn, a 32oz Coke, and a box of junior mints to get through that manuscript that JB posted. Good God man, you could have fished a 2 day tournament in the same amout of time it took you to post all that.
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Old 06-15-06, 04:03 PM   #21
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coulda jus said "grease it" and ben a quickie, but i have to kill time at work somehow rofl
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Old 06-15-06, 06:24 PM   #22
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hell i done went thru 1/2 a large pizza a 12 pack of mgd and 3 pcs of eclipse just to read that hunk o junk... awww soonnn!!! you is needing to go FISHING dam..

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Old 06-15-06, 07:24 PM   #23
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shoot i fish all the time, you know that .......i think every joint on me sore from overdoin' it, but its worth it
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Old 06-15-06, 08:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyRod
Let's not rush to judgement. After all, they laughed at Orville and Wilbur too.

F.Rod
Fly rod, I still laugh at the pathetic idiots who had to sue their partners in a local court system, to be the first in flight.Check and see who were all involved to help plan and designed the plane that was used in the flight.
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Old 06-15-06, 09:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pig n jig
Fly rod, I still laugh at the pathetic idiots who had to sue their partners in a local court system, to be the first in flight.Check and see who were all involved to help plan and designed the plane that was used in the flight.

I'll get right to it after I take care of some more pressing matters.
Let me seeeeee...clip toenails, fold laundry, change cat litter, compose some Haiku...oh yeah, and assure http://hammer.afdc.com/activities/ul...s/5/photo1.jpg
I promise!

FR
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