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Old 01-27-06, 07:11 PM   #1
HuckFinn
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Question IM-6 IM-7 IM-8 or Other Y Y Not

Which is better? Why? When? Type of Rod?
Does it make a difference?
How would one stand up against another if not equal. Such as for an example MH IM-6 vs light IM-8 vs M IM-7
More is better but always?
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Old 01-27-06, 07:24 PM   #2
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As I understand it the higher you get the lighter, but also more brittle the rod gets. But that may very well be an oversimplification, and I'm sure one of the resident tackle geeks on here with loads of money to spend on kistlers, st croixs and loomises can talk with much more authority on the advantages to higher modulus graphite.
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Old 01-27-06, 07:37 PM   #3
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The IM rating really means nothing more than the tensile strength rating of the rod. The way the blank is designed or layered determines how sensitive it is.As WTL said,The higher the modulus the more brittle it becomes.Your better off with a middle of the road modulus rod built that has good sensitivity for years of fishing without failure. P N J
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Old 01-27-06, 08:24 PM   #4
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Comparing a light Im-6 to a med Im-7 is like comparing apples to oranges. Unless you are simply comparing the actual weight of each rod but that's like comparing the weight of a 5 ft. rod to a 7 ft. rod, it won't really tell you which is a better rod to get. a Medium power rod is still a medium power rod regardless of the material involved when it comes to power rating. As for flexibility or speed/ or stiffness...all meaning the same thing...again a moderate tip is a moderate tip...this is referring to the action. Action is usually expressed moderate, fast, very fast...etc. Im(whatever, 8, 7, 6), however, are not equal between manufacturers. There is a reason why there is a difference between G Loomis's Im-7(GLX as it is referred to) than say St. Croix's Im-7, and Berkley's Im-7. That moniker is merely talking about the modulus of the graphite used. Modulus does not refer to the amount of graphite used in a rod either(a popular misconception). No rod is made out of %100.00 Graphite. This is where all the marketing B.S. comes in. More importantly between manufacturers even if they use the same percentages of graphite to resin/fiberglass compound, they are still going to be different because of the pressure used on the mandrels when they wrap the blank. Most manufacturers are not able to exceed a certain tolerance before crushing the mandrels (something like 25 or 30 psi). Others have designed their Mandrels and equipment to withstand a lot more pressure than the "average" manufacturer can place on it's mandrels. I hope this helps you in deciding what/who's rod you would like to buy. Here is one tip. If the manufacturer doesn't list the percentage of graphite used in the blank...then chances are it is somewhere around 20 to 40 percent is all.
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Old 01-27-06, 09:36 PM   #5
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IM 6 or IM 7 means how many graphite modulus there are in millions. So IM 6 would be six million, and a 7 would be seven million. The more phraphite the more sensetive and lighter it is.
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Old 01-28-06, 03:14 PM   #6
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that's not correct.most im6 is between 33 million to 38 million modulous.most im 7 is around 39 to 41 million.most im 8 is 42 million to 46 million.there are modulous ratings up to 85 million.modulous rating is not everything!!!how a rod is built and the resin used to hold it together have a lot to do with it.tapers and how thick the graphite is also have a lot to do with it.many of the high end rods you buy are between 42 and 64 million modulous.some manufactuers such as kistler won't even tell you what it is made of.it's way to easy to get hung up on it.it is true that a higher modulous rod is gernerally more brittle but manufacturers are now overcoming these problems with new designs.buy a rod for how it feels and from recommendations of fellow fishermen.ask if you may try somebodies rod if you want to see how it fishes.then hopefully you will find the rod you are looking for.
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Old 01-29-06, 09:18 AM   #7
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All the above is true. Especially the remarks on the content of the graphite and the pressure excerted when making the rod. The higher end rods are are MUCH more quality control and built with VERY little or no spine therefore this means the rod is put under more pressure than say a rod available from wally world. A rod with little or no spine is absolutley a joy to fish with in that it flexes the way it is meant to no matter which way it bends. Most of your higher end rods are a combination of materials that are designed to work together to give you the best they can give...sensitivtiy,light,response etc etc. One of the best rods available at a small cost INMHO is the Berkley lightening rod. $50 bucks in most p[laces light responsive sensitive and fairly tough. The higher end rods most of you know I LUV AIRRUS rods. They are pricey but so far I havent broke one can feel a fly fart at 100yds and the actions are THE BEST.
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Old 01-29-06, 10:20 AM   #8
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Lightnin rods are 23 dollars-35 dollars at wal mart.
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Old 01-30-06, 04:12 AM   #9
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If you want answers from the horses mouth check this article out:

The IM mean nothing more than trade numbers from the Hexel Corporation. Don't believe me? Ask Gary Loomis.

http://flw.flwoutdoors.com/article.cfm?id=141123
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Old 01-30-06, 07:13 AM   #10
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Thanks alot Powebass,Just reminded me of my age.LMAO Lighting rods used to sell for around 50. Since I havent bought 1 in awhile guess they have come down. This sometimers crap is getting to be more frequent.LOL
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Old 01-30-06, 05:24 PM   #11
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The Hank Parker series Lightning Rod is priced at 50 dollars so to a certain point Fastlaser is correct and back in the old ages not the regular Lightnings were priced above 85 dollars when they were first introduced to the market.
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Old 01-30-06, 05:29 PM   #12
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I'm still stickin' with my bionic blades, not only are sensitive but pretty neat to look at on a sunny day. The blank goes through the handle and is made of multilayer IM-8 graphite, rated at 45 million modulus, representing the perfect blend of sensitivity and power. The walls are thin but strong, and to ensure you'll have power to spare we've added a 3K Carbon Cloth overlay through the butt section, to increase "horseability" without gaining weight. But sensitivity is crucial too.
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Old 02-07-06, 12:18 PM   #13
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Default Google It !!!!!

I like my berkley series one rods, and I have a loomis, and some others, but myself, I don't get caught up in the module ratings thing, I judge a rod by the vibration I get from placing the tip of the rod on someone's adams apple, and of course how it looks. I spend more than I should on fishin gear, but you can catch fish on a 20 dollar rod, just as easy as you can with a 200 dollar rod, but overall, I have nothing but confidence in my berkley's. 49.00 at wallyworld, you can even find them on sale at times for under 40.00. Getting wrapped up in the game makes it harder to enjoy sometimes.
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Old 02-09-06, 08:26 PM   #14
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betursweetbass,
so true, I find myself worrying baout buying tackle more than fishing. I just gotta calm down and realize that a 23 dollars lightnin rod, will do the smae as a 300 dollar loomis. Being 16 and buying top end aint workin too good. But, fenwicks are great for the money, I own 2.
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Old 02-09-06, 09:09 PM   #15
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i use a fritts crankin stick...e-glass.....when i crank which is not very often
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Old 02-10-06, 05:57 AM   #16
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tom them things are like casting a wet noodle.. i don't like fritts rods.. i am, with island bass the im rating is just a marketing ploy. haveing used a airrus rod there nice real sensitive. kristlar are real light but prone to break-lizzy you anit alone-i guess i like a rod that i can feel great with and beat like a red headed step child. i will be sticking with fenwick..

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Old 02-13-06, 04:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zooker
i guess i like a rod that i can feel great with and beat like a red headed step child. i will be sticking with fenwick..

zooker
I got a present for you when I see you at the end of the month 7' Medium spinning rod (Fenwick) which I won in a raffle, with about 2" broke off the tip. The tip is still there too. Yours for the low price of nothing but a boat ride LOL.

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Old 02-13-06, 07:01 PM   #18
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bring it lizzy been wanting a nother spinning stick..wont be the first repair job i have done on a fenwick stick..

i still use a 6'6'' mh hmg fenwick that meet a ceiling fan minus 9" makes a great jerk bait/popin stick.pool cue stiffness..

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Old 03-05-06, 02:56 AM   #19
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Default Modulus rating

Anybody out there know the equivelent modulus rating to IM9? How many million?
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