11-27-06, 07:59 AM | #26 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: crossett,arkansas
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DO NOT put the transducer in the inside bottom. Nothing but problems and VERY limited quality on the screen. And also like ZOOK said be careful about removing all the seats as you did. When the manufacturer built that boat the seats where part of the rigidity of the boat. I would definatly look into a raised deck in the boat to facilatate part of the rigidity back into the boat, or put the livewell in the middle of the boat and make sure she goes from both sides. As I stated when the manufactuerer built this boat the seat where part of the strength in the structure. I been making bass boats out of aluminums for years so I aint just talking from hear say I am talking from expeience.
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Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!! |
12-05-06, 10:10 PM | #27 |
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Location: Winfield,WV
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OK for starters mount your transducer on the outside of the boat. Transducers will not shoot-thru on aluminum hulls and give a true reading. When you buy the unit it will come with mounting instructions and a transducer. Be sure and mount it like the instructions say. Secondly a bilge pump is handy if your fishin in the rain or if some idiot swamps you with a wave. It's a lot easier to flip a switch to get rid of the water versus using a bucket or other means. I would suggest that you obtain a copy of the boating regulations for your area because most require you to have some way to remove water from your boat. Not only that but there are numerous other regulations that the local authorities just love to write tickets for when you don't have all the necessary equipment. For example navigation lights for darkness, life vests for everyone on board, fire ext. depending on size of boat, throwable flotation device(cost my brother $125 fine for this one) and a bunch of others.
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12-06-06, 07:10 PM | #28 |
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1fastlazer,
If they put the deck in the groove I circled, made sure it was a tight fit, and cut notches around the support brackets would that help restore some of the rigidity from cutting the seats out? I would then run screws through the top of the deck into the support brackets to fasten it down. I would also make a support out of 2x4's to run down the middle of the deck. I've also heard that adding a platform to a boat like this is really unstable when your trying to fish from it. Anyone have any experience adding fishing decks to these kind of boats that can give some insight. I'm thinking about possible doing the same thing but haven't heard good things about doing it.
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Strap Indianapolis, IN "Speak softly and carry a big stick." Pitching stick that is. |
12-06-06, 07:34 PM | #30 |
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Dampeoples,
Me likey, likey. Is this a design you came up with yourself or did you have help from your fishing club? If you don't mind sharing your trade secrets could you send me a PM with how you did the transformation. I'm mainly interested on how you made the structural changes to add the decking. Thanks!
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Strap Indianapolis, IN "Speak softly and carry a big stick." Pitching stick that is. |
12-07-06, 07:02 AM | #31 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: crossett,arkansas
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First off any decks that I have added have always been 3 sometimes 4" nelow the run rail. Only thing you have to remeber is the troller mount will have to be raised. Putting a deck flush with the rub rail will cause some stability issues. I personally have done this SEVERAL times and on several of my personal boats. Not only an inexpensive way to build a bass getter but you dunn it yourself. Dont forget to mount the transducer outside the hull. I strongly recommend to mount it BETWEEN the ribs. Less of a chance of turbid water interferring with the signal.
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Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!! |
12-07-06, 11:39 AM | #32 | |
BassFishin.Com Veteran Member
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Quote:
For the back, I mounted two pieces of angle iron to the transom, built a similar support for the other side of the deck, and mounted the pedestal on the original seat, making a nice little deck back there, and plenty of room for batteries and lifejackets underneath. For the middle, I mounted a 1/4" piece of plywood, built a battery box and rocked on, not that hard, and boats are made diferently, might make it easier to mount the plywood. |
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12-07-06, 11:52 AM | #33 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Monticello, Arkansas
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going back to the rigidity of the sides. At higher speed or rough water, they will flex several inches. But you can fix that by using using 1/2" or 1.5" square metal tubing to frame all your decking. this will replace the seats as braces and add strength to the plywood, especially directly under your pedastal mounts.
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12-07-06, 02:52 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: crossett,arkansas
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Well I'll be dang. Another fellow angler that fishes the great waters of MONTICELLO. I live in crossett. Maybe we can hook up some times and see ifn one of those ole bigguns will helps us out and test our equipment.
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Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!! |
12-07-06, 03:37 PM | #35 |
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that might work laser, did you check out my other post about the aerial photos?
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01-08-07, 11:50 PM | #36 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Northern Va
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Shes ready for paint. This weekend (granting its warm enough), we will paint her royal blue.
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01-16-07, 01:11 AM | #37 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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Heres a great link for inspiration! http://www.myjonboat.com/featured_boats.htm
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