How do to detect a a strike on a drop shot rig?

[jbiasin]

how do u detect a strike on a drop shot rig? can you fish a drop shot in a heavily weeded lake? i keep getting clumps of weeds getting attached to my sinker. Also i have tried a Carolina rig and noticed both my lizards and worms are not floating above the rig when retrieved but are dragging among the bottom......is this a problem? i am fishing in the eastern part of Massachusetts

[BassFeverJohn]

Originally Posted by jbiasin

how do u detect a strike on a drop shot rig? can you fish a drop shot in a heavily weeded lake? i keep getting clumps of weeds getting attached to my sinker. Also i have tried a Carolina rig and noticed both my lizards and worms are not floating above the rig when retrieved but are dragging among the bottom......is this a problem? i am fishing in the eastern part of Massachusetts

First off, welcome to the boards!

When I get a strike on a drop shot it is a lot like a strike on a T-rig. Basically there is just a sudden resistance to my pull. If I get a strike on the fall then it can be more visual as my line runs tight. But more than not it's just like a regular worm rig.

I don't C-rig much. To me it's a lot like watching paint dry, but I usually use a floating straight worm. If the thing doesn't get above the weight it's sorta useless.

[nofearengineer]

Jbiasin, it depends on how you fish your drop shot.

If you ascribe to the school of letting your line go slack, then you will need to first see how far your rod loads or bends under normal weight, without a fish on it. Then, after you let it go slack, when you pull up on it slowly, if it loads more, you know something is on it, be it weeds, or a bass's lips.

If, like me, you prefer to keep the line semi-taut (and this tends to require a slightly heavier sinker), you can detect a strike just like you usually do: a rat-a-tat-tat . I tend to keep my line tight, and work the rod tip in a circular fashion (I call it the "hula dance" LOL). This imparts action, but leaves the line taut.

However, you still get those "suck it in" bites, where you don't feel anything, but the rod tip starts lowering slowly. Those are the real fun ones, as they are usually the bigger fish.

[BassFeverJohn]

Originally Posted by nofearengineer

If, like me, you prefer to keep the line semi-taut (and this tends to require a slightly heavier sinker), you can detect a strike just like you usually do: a rat-a-tat-tat . I tend to keep my line tight...

I forgot to mention that I usually keep my line tight.

I have never got a big one on a drop rig. 3lbs is about as big as I have got on this rig.

[BigBassin144]

A key to the dropshot is a good sensitive rod. If you don't have one, you're most likely missing a lot more bites that you never even knew about. Braided line can help as well. I've been using 10lb braided line with a 6-8lb fluoro leader for over a year now and love the combo.

Other than increasing your sensitivity, there's not much you can do other than watch your line, for those super subtle dropshot bites where you don't feel a tap.

BB

[cassidyta]

The drop shot bite has historically been very difficult for me as well. I had the chance to fish with a guy who uses it almost exclusively and really learned a lot about it.
While it may not work for everyone, a couple of things I picked up really helped me.
My set up was a 7' Clarus with 6lbs fluoro using a fairly tight line.
The change for me was three things:
I put more slack in my line which allowed me to line watch.
I switched to tungsten weights which allowed me to feel the bottom better and distinguish between rocks, trees, weeds, and fish.
I used my free hand to slowly bring the line in similar to fly fishing.
Since making these changes, I have found that I catch more fish on the drop shot than before.

[Rebbasser]

It also depends on how you hook your bait. I fish it on a tight line, too, but usually use an exposed dropshot hook. With the hook exposed there is little doubt when a fish hits.

Like nofear, with that setup it feels like a rat-a-tat-a-tat.

[Cavs1123]

I fish a drop shot by pulling it along the bottom with my rod tip,relling up slack and repeating. The strike may be a slight resistance to your pull or you may fell a slight *tick*. When you do get a bite DONT SET THE HOOK HARD! Just simply pull back slowly and let the fish load up on it. As for the weed problem. If your fishing horizantal weeds just go to a smaller sinker like 1/8 or maybe even 1/16. If your fishing clumps of grass that grow from the bootom, then it is just about imppossible. Hope this helps and welcome to the forums!

[3dkicker]

The lizard dragging behind the weight on the bottom won't be a problem. This is normal. If you want it to float then you need to find someone who pours floating lizards and then use a very light hook.

What type sinkers have you been using? There are a few different shapes out there from egg to cylinder shaped. Also a little WD-40 or spray scent might help keep the weeds off.

[Jim80]

Usually all the pins fall down .

Everyone else pretty much summed it up so i thought to make a joke Welcome to the forums



Jim

[islandbass]

I can help you with that. Here is a piece I wrote about my experiences with the drop shot. You can either read the whole thing or skip on down near the end for the hook set.

Islandbass’ Take on the Drop Shot

I am no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I have grown fond of the Drop Shot technique in my short, six-season fishing journey. I found this technique to be a very productive method to catch fish in a variety of states. In my first outing for fishing for smallmouth bass ever, I hooked and caught 3 smallies on three consecutive casts. It is the only method that has done this for me to date, and from the shore to boot. At the very least, I can share with you what I have learned through trial, error, and experience (which isn't much).

Basic Drop Shot Diagram

Here is a generic set up.



Rod and Reel Type
You don't need a Drop Shot specific rod. A medium-light to medium-powered rod with a moderate to extra-fast action, and a length ranging from 6'3" on up to just over 7' should work for you for now, unless you plan to fish heavier cover. If you find drop shotting to your liking, you can then opt to go with a Drop Shot specific rod of your choice. As a rule of thumb, a longer rod will enable you to have more line control and leverage; two big pluses in drop shotting.

I prefer spinning reels (a size 20 or 2500 reel is an excellent choice) because they require less work to give the bait a better (IMHO) descent than a baitcast reel. Sorry baitcast reel users, but the way a spinning drops the bait (for ¼ oz weights and less) smokes a baitcast reel any and every day for drop shotting. To those who use baitcast reels exclusively, please note I said for drop shotting in its basic, finesse form (lighter lines, weights, and smaller baits). There will not be a need to strip line off just to make the bait fall.

With that said, casting reels can also be used. I just prefer a spinning reel. You may use whatever reel you want. Even a Barbie pole can get it done for drop shotting! However, I would not hesitate to use heavier line, weights, larger baits and a baitcast reel if I were to drop shot heavy cover. Something I call Alpha Shotting!


Drop Shot Weight and Type
A 3/16 - 1/4 oz weight is a good starting weight. Going any lighter might make it harder for you to read what is going on until you get experience. As for the shape, I like to use either the teardrop (WCCT weights rock!) or cylindrical shape and prefer the former as my first choice. I have not experimented with other shapes. Windier conditions and stronger currents might make you want to choose a heavier weight, but let’s not worry about that for now.


Line
Because you are drop shotting, lighter line is preferred if the cover you are fishing allows it. Go up in # strength if the cover dictates this. I like and use 6# fluorocarbon, particularly Seaguar's Invizx. This line kicks fanny. No doubt about it. The plus in going with fluorocarbon in a higher # test if needed is despite having a slightly thicker line diameter; the angler retains the benefit of fluorocarbon’s trait of near invisibility as advertisers so claim. Whichever line you choose, I think the fluorocarbon line of your choice will be fine.

I know that some also prefer to use braid. I know the benefits of braid and am not against it and maybe someday I’ll use it with a fluorocarbon leader. Given the amount of sensitivity my rod and line provide me, I just don’t have a need to take it up a notch to braid for the typical depths I fish, which is usually no more than 20’. If you plan to fish greater depths, braid may very well be the ticket. The enhanced sensitivity braid provides can be a plus.

Baits
Keep an open mind here. Many baits of a variety of shapes can be used. The general rule of thumb is a tendency to use smaller baits since we are "finesse" fishing (translates to downsizing in general). The typical length of a drop shot bait usually ranges from 3" - 4.5" but this is NOT set in stone. Roboworms, Senkos, Sniper Snubs and Bolts (the latter two are locally made baits), Reaction Innovations Flirts, and heck, even Baby Brush Hogs and Tubes can be used. Think out of the box. I have used longer worms too. This season, the 4.5” Roboworm (in Aaron’s Magic) and Sniper Snubs in Watermelon and Dark Brown have been so effective that to date I have not seen a need to try something else or other colors. It might be different for bass in other waters. If you wish to know, so far the most effective baits for me have been, the snubs and roboworms.

Here is a picture of a smallie I caught on a longer Roboworm hoping for a bigger smallie. The darn Roboworm is nearly as long as the smallie!




Hooks/Knot
I prefer to use size 1 or 2 (mostly size 2) Owner Mosquito or Gamakatsu Split Shot/Drop Shot hooks. If I am fishing a grassy area in which grass can catch the exposed hook, I opt for the Owner Down Shot hook, which is in essence a mini version of an EWG (extra wide gap) worm hook. Naturally, if you plan to drop shot much larger baits, you might need to go up in hook size.

I attach the hook to the line with a Palomar knot and after it is tied, I insert the extra line (tag end) through the hook's eye before attaching the weight.


Tag End Length (Distance from the hook to the weight)
The best way to figure this out is to experiment. I have had success with the tag end being as short as 4-6" to nearly but not quite 24”. Because drop shotting is not limited to a purely vertical presentation, a longer leader is a good idea if you wish to work it somewhat like a Texas or Carolina rig. The longer leader length or tag end (which I define here as the distance between the weight and your hook, perhaps 18" as a ballpark figure) will enable you to keep the bait off the ground with the shallow angle that will result from a long cast. For a more vertical presentation, a shorter distance from the hook to the bait can work. Another influencing factor is the depth at which the fish are staying. You might need to adjust your tag end accordingly.

Imparting Life to the Lure
Despite the initial perception of working this lure, it is not all about jiggling and wiggling the bait to death. An angler can indeed work the bait this way, but I can tell you from personal experience, that wiggling and jiggling the bait to death (continuously) has accounted for the fewest number of catches. By no means am I saying to not wiggle and jiggle it to death. That is only one method.

So what should one do in addition to the wiggling/jiggling tactic?

Keep the weight on the bottom for the most part and leave enough slack to let the bait sink/float/suspend on its own weight. Then, when you think the bait is near the bottom lift/twitch the rod just enough to move the bait a little (without moving or minimizing the movement of the weight on the bottom) and repeat. In effect, what you are doing is working a semi-slack line and this is what is imparting action to the bait. No hits? Repeat if you wish, or add a little dead sticking to the mix or, drag your bait to the next spot. All are good choices. The dragging of the weight from one spot to the next also imparts life and action to the lure and can help to draw a strike. In addition, working with the slack and dead sticking have been far more effective for me compared to wiggling and jiggling the bait to death.

Not sure what the bait will do? Find some shallow water and drop your bait down. The depth should be one where you can see all the way to the bottom. Once the weight is on the bottom, let your bait fall by lowering your rod. Before the lure hits the bottom, raise the rod’s tip enough to bring the lure up, and do your best to keep the weight in place. Watching this will give you an idea of what will likely be happening when you are not able to see the bait with your own eyes. Visualizing what the bait is doing when I can’t see it helps me to focus on what I am trying to do, and that is catching fish.

Concerned about not being able to feel the bite on this semi-slack line if you are using fluorocarbon or braid? Let me put you at ease. It is not an issue. Either of those lines combined with a sensitive rod is more than adequate to feel the bite when the line has a bit of slack.


The Strike or Hit
The strike or hit can vary depending on the activity level of the fish, the quality of your set up to a certain extent, and the line you are using. More sensitive rods do a better job of transmitting what is going on to you. I have had the blessing of drop shotting with my Berkley Cherrywood Rod, which is decent and not too shabby, but comparing it to my Lamiglas Certified Pro Drop Shot rod is something else. Here is my analogy:

If the Cherrywood rod provides stereo sound to me while watching a DVD movie, the Lamiglas rod gives me the sound in THX and Blu-Ray for the mental image, for the full cinema experience. The latter rod is not necessary to enjoy drop shotting, but it makes it a lot easier to feel and detect the subtle strikes.

The line you use can also influence the feel of the strike. My experience working with both mono and fluorocarbon is that the latter always seemed to give me a better picture. We all know now that although FC line can have as much or more stretch than a comparable monofilament line, it is likely that its density still enables it to beautifully transmit information from the end of our line, to the rod and to our hands. We all know how well braid transmits data back to the angler too so I don’t think I need to elaborate further.

The hit or strike can feel like:
1) A mushy tug or tick, which could translate to a complete inhalation of your bait or the fish attacking the lure from the hook's side.
2) A nibble or nibbling, that transmits vibrations through the line to you. Sometimes you can see or feel the line vibrate through your semi-slack line. More sensitive rods tell you this much better and more clearly. I believe when the hit is like this (my best guess anyway as I visualize the strike), it is possible that the fish might have taken the lure from the side opposite the hook and the nibbling/vibrations you feel is the fish taking in the bait into its mouth, eventually getting to the hook.
3) Bam! An aggressive hit and it's on!

The Hook Set
For one and three, just reeling up the slack and adding enough tension to make the line taut is sufficient for most cases to drive the light wire hook home. For case two, you have to wait until the fish gets to the hook and then do as mentioned above. If you don't, you will pull the lure from the fish's mouth. Since it didn't get to the hook, there is no way the fish can get hooked.

I have written this based on the experience I gained from drop shotting. Take it for what it’s worth, an opinion at best. I will close by giving you a final warning:

WARNING: Drop Shotting is as addictive as it is effective.

Good luck and go get’em!

-ib
(Alexander Arceo)

Review of that Season


The Drop Shot technique has been so effective for me that in my first season learning and using it. It has accounted for 100% of the smallmouth bass and about 70% of the largemouth bass I have caught in that season, and I caught a lot, the most ever!!! And here is the thing that makes this even sweeter. They were all caught from the shore. No, this is not a testament to my skills, but a testament to the effectiveness of the Drop Shot technique.

[Bender]

I didn't real IB's post so if he said this then I'll just repeat it. Set your reel so that your index finger can extend to touch your line. Normally with the dropshot I either drag it very slowly from the boat movement or don't move it much at all, with drags and then long pauses. In any case I was out fishing with a pro last year and he did this which is simple and makes all the sense in the world for detecting bites, especially with a less sensitive rod:

[jbiasin]

Thank you all for being so helpful! I'm just starting to bass fish and find most of my luck coming from texas rigging a curly tail worm using a pull and stop retrieve. I actually cought a 6 and a half pounder the other day on it! And have had good sucess spot fishing with it! Red shad is the color I'm having most sucess with. My friend has been doing good on senkos, but I'm producing much larger fish than him. I'm trying to use utilize other methods such as the drop shot or even the carolina rig but. Am nervoues in trying such methods. My carolina rig I have set up the bait sinks to the bottom behing the rig and with drop shot all the lakes I fish have heavy weeds sooo I'm not sure if the drop shot can be worked effectivly. Do any of you guys have sucess or have even tried a free weighted texas rig????

[cassidyta]

Throwing the bait weightless also known as fly-rigging, is a fairly common practice. You can get away with it when the water is not too deep.
If there are a lot of weeds, I like to move my hook further down the worm and put a nail weight into the worm's head. This helps it sink fast enough and keeps it moving through the weeds.
I also add scents such as smelly jelly. Not as much for the scent, but it acts as a decent lubricant for the bait.