04-26-12, 02:03 PM | #1 |
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Shore Fishing
Walking the shore line and making that first cast. Should I go with a action lure approach line spinner bait, crank bait, jerk bait, etc..until i get a hit and then go with taxes rigging or drop shotting. 2nd approach just texas rig or drop shot until something hits? Ive been fishing this river and lake for couple weeks now mainly texas rigging and drop shotting. Only thing I have got to bite is some big ole snapping turtles LMAO!
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04-26-12, 02:09 PM | #2 |
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Don't know, but.....
...... let's rule out Texas-rigging and drop shotting, at least for a while. Sounds like you may have a bottom that doesn't fit with those methods.
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04-26-12, 03:24 PM | #3 |
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04-26-12, 08:18 PM | #4 |
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Almost anywhere I'd start with an action, or fast-moving, lure. At those times when the fish are active you'll catch a lot more than with a slow lure.
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04-26-12, 09:33 PM | #5 |
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A lot depends on what time of year your fishing, the water and weather conditions, is it calm or windy, is there a lot of cover or is it pretty much weed and cover free? Durring the summer months, I like to start EARLY and with a topwater. I'll gradually move to also throwing a spinnerbait, a jerk bait, shallow crank, and a plastic bait like perhaps a senko style bait. There are many variables, so I can't say THIS is what to do, because there is no such solid answer. YOu just need to look at the conditions your facing and choose a plan that fits. Easier said than done, I know.
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04-26-12, 11:09 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for the advice guys! @keithdog I usually either go around 9am or early afternoon, the water is usually always stained, so far everyday ive been its been little breeze and the water flow is always moving moderate to fast from right to left. Hope that helps!
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04-28-12, 01:21 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I am not doubting you; I am curious as to why you would rule out two very effective techniques. I would never rule out any technique because I am shorebound. To the subject, the recommended approaches are a great approach. If and when they fail to produce, do not hesitate to use slower presentations.
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04-30-12, 03:41 PM | #8 | |
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I would still want to throw some plastics, but I might try a slow-sinking approach, such as a weightless senko or a jerkbait, just to keep it higher in the water column. |
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04-30-12, 08:00 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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04-30-12, 10:30 PM | #10 |
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Well I have very little experience fishing rivers. It sounds from what you said that there is a pretty swift current. Is that correct? If so, I would try a heavier spinnerbait, say 1/2 - 3/4 oz with downsized double willow blades. I would think that would help deal with the current issue. I'd also be looking for current breaks such as log jams, large rocks, logs, anything that would slow up the current and then try working a soft jerk bait or senko style worm right in that quieter water. You can use that current to float your soft plastics into the cover you want to work.
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05-01-12, 02:25 PM | #11 |
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Another moving water technique I use is to suspend a smallish tube underneath a float and let the current work it along rocks and other breaks in the current. It requires some experimenting and is less effective as the water gets deeper and/or faster. You can also toss it into eddies and pockets behind downed trees and other structure. Usually, if a bass hits it the float really reacts, but I tend to set the hook whenever I see a change in how it is drifting.
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05-01-12, 04:55 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I see a lot of people using this technique out here im have to try that the current seems to always be moving south east up towards the dam. So do it like ur doing a drop shot rig except use a split shot at bottom of line just enough to keep the line straight under the float? |
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05-02-12, 09:12 AM | #13 | |
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Thanks!!!
Quote:
I use a tube jig, with no weight between the jig and the float. It is easy to impart action to the tube, just by twitching the float and the fewer objects in the water column, the less there is for current to disrupt. In terms of the amount of weight, use the least you can get away with to get the bait to the depth you want, as well as using as small of a float that you can get away with. If there is much of a current, you will not get the bait to hang straight down, since current on the surface is faster than current underneath. Fortunately, that doesn't matter much, since you can still see the float react to a hit. |
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05-03-12, 12:38 AM | #14 | |
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05-07-12, 12:08 AM | #15 |
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Agree with you dear.... i have same thinking to say about it....
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05-09-12, 01:25 PM | #16 |
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Depends on depth. If I can, I like to use the plastic teardrop shape floats with the hole and rubber tube in the middle that you run the line through and twist to set the depth. The weight of the float allows far longer casts. I rig it backwards, so the fat end is towards the jig. If the water is too deep for that, I like Thill's slipbobbers.
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05-09-12, 03:48 PM | #17 |
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I use slip bobbers especially using the drop shot technique.
Seems to allow more action and varying depths are easier with light equipment, just hold the tip higher for higher float, lower for lower float and then mix and match according to what the bass tell you. Also works with calm water. Some ideas http://www.myoutdoortv.com/how-to/fr...video-included This or similar type technique is a go to for redfisherman and works in current and out of current. Alot of folks add glass beads under float for noise attraction. Experiment till it works and puts out the action you desire. Some folks use weights or a weighted hook and a soft plastic Fluke, smaller flukes I've found to be more effective early, I suppose due to fish feeding on fry. Slip sinkers are used and a simple bobber stop tie will eliminate the sinker from sliding down to bait. I've done all the above with varying success. Split shot will also work and creat more noise. Some weighted bobbers have a metal bottom, creating same effect with noise. It also allows you to fish it like Kieth mentioned 'You can use that current to float your soft plastics into the cover you want to work.' which is extremely effective in my opinion. You don't always need the action due to the ambushing feeding technique of most bass. Oh, fish don't need to be surface feeding either. I haven't tried the bobber mentioned in video but it makes sense because I do the same with surface poopers tying a line and then lure to rear split ring, with or without hook removed. But under your regulations this wouldn't be an option unless you remove both trebles. Good luck and have fun.
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