Winterizing

[Abbeysdad]

I checked at the dealer about winterizing. It basically includes stabilizing the gas and running to get it into the motor, pulling the plugs to fog the cylinders, then servicing the lower unit (changing the oil).
They want $70, but it seems pretty simple to me - Am I missing something?

I'm also thinking about their shrink wrap ($50) and winter storage ($195) as I don't have an indoor place to store it.

Where it applies, how do you guys put your boats up for the winter?

[nofearengineer]

Mine will stay pretty warm and toasty (for a boat) in my garage.

[Bender]

That's basically all you need to do. But also get all water out of any bilge/livewell lines and try to drain the speedo line too. Some guys put a Tee in it with a valve where it enters the tramsom so it it easy to drain. I keep mine inside, even though it
means the cars are outside.

[Abbeysdad]

How do you guys cover it - ever have a problem with mice?
(I've heard some [horror]stories about mice getting in, nesting, digging out Styrofoam, etc.)

[1FASTLASER]

Abbey.my recommend on the shrink wrap is DONT do it. If that boat isnt completley dry all you are doing is setting up for mold and mildew to get a foot hold. I use 2 or did when I put her to bed for the winter when I lived in Pa. tarps. I wrapped the boat as snuggly as posible witht he first one and then did the same with the second. Get you some spearmint oil.....available at any nutrition center and put a couple of drops in each compartment. Keeps the pests out....LOL guess they dont like fresh breathe.

[Mac2]

Had a very hard time with mice in the garage.....dcon, traps, baited traps with cheese, peanut butter....nothing worked. Then finally put a couple shallow plastic dishes up on the ledge between the rafters and put a little anti freeze in each. The mice had no trouble climbing the cement block wall and tasting. Found three so far and no more chewed up gloves. Just have to be extremely careful about pets and kids.

[Abbeysdad]

Originally Posted by 1FASTLASER

Abbey.my recommend on the shrink wrap is DONT do it.

Hmm...gets me thinking as even if I take it in dry, I can't be sure it won't sit out (rain) and get wet before they actually shrink wrap it. You'd think there would be some desiccant they would use to absorb any moisture.
Then again, if it's cold storage, I doubt mold/mildew would be an issue...until it gets warm again (just thinking out loud).

So if you cover with tarps...I have a question. Living where there is snow, I'm thinking I would need some kind of an internal frame...unlike water that just flows off, snow would collect and cause a sag in the cover as well as pressure on the windshield (the weight of snow 'n ice). Did you have some kindof frame inside to better handle this.

[BeaverIslander]

I need to start figuring out what I'm going to do because I'm storing outside in the Minnesota snow for the first time. I've heard of people putting inflated tire inner tubes on the casting deck to help keep snow from collecting. Or building a frame of PVC that goes from bow to stern, down the center to prop up their tarps. They slip PVC right over the seat posts and go from there.

I plan on taking the windshield off so it doesn't crack. As well as batteries, electronics, and the trolling motor. This will help make the boat more low profile and allow me to get the factory cover and the tarp and little tighter and more secure.

[Abbeysdad]

I think the PVC frame is a good idea (I was thinking 2x2 wood) as well as pulling the batteries, electronics and TM...not sure I would remove the windshield, just protect it from the weight of any snow. The cold won't bother that glass anymore than a windshield on a car...but maybe some are Plexiglas.

[bassboogieman]

Looks like the winterization is pretty much covered. And if this is your first time, let your mechanic do it on your day off - most will let you watch them do it, and it's the best way to learn. For sure if you have "wet" batteries take them out of the boat - they can freeze, crack, and leak acid into the compartment. Keeping them charged can avoid the freeze - but if the electric supply to the charger goes off, it's a genuine mess. AGM batteries won't freeze and will usually hold a charge for three months or longer. I leave mine in the boat over winter with no problems.

Be careful of shrink wrap. Moisture gets trapped under it, condesation will form also during weather changes. Moisture will cause mildew on your seats, in your carpet, dash, it can be a real mess when you open it up in the spring. Best thing if you have to leave it outside is double cover it. Some kind of water resistant fabric cover under a plastic/vinyl water proof outer cover. Use the PVC, alum tubing, 2x3 wood, etc to keep the covers up, so water will drain and avoid any water pooling on the cover. If your boat is the one in the avitar, you should be good with running PVC from the center of the windshied to bow, and another to the stern to give you good drainage. Depending upon how stong the windshied frame is, you may want to put a wooden post in front of it, rather than run anything to the frame itself.
MICE? They (as well as squirrels and cats) hate mothballs, and don't skimp. I use cheap plastic bowls from the "Dollar Store", fill 'em up with mothballs and one goes in every compartment. Put a small block of wood, plastic whatever's handy under the compartment lids to let air circulate, as anything thightly sealed will promote moisture condensation. Put another couple bowls of mothballs under your console(s), they love chewing wiring almost as much as making nesting material out of your carpet or seats.
The boat in your avitar looks like it's in a garage - if you keep it inside, storage is the same but you can eliminate the double cover. The single breathable cover will be enough inside. DON'T forget the mothballs!

[Abbeysdad]

bassboogieman - thanks for the tips. Having just gotten my first boat in June, this is all new to me. Yes, that is my boat in the avitar, but it was only [delivered] in the garage for the birthday surprise - I can't really keep it there. I'm still debating the whole thing as to whether to have it serviced and stored or do it all myself. Maybe I'll just drop the 3 bills and have it done this year and tackle it myself next year.
(not sure I woulda thunk of moth balls!)
thanks again.

[1FASTLASER]

Bassboogie got ya covered on did one. Some type of aluminum or pvc framework in a teepee fashion keeps the rain and snow dropping off the sides. I did keep the very front and the very rear slightly open to allow for ventilation. This worked quite well for me. One thing that I did see mentioned and want to VERY STRONGLY advise if you store where temps drop REMOVE THE BATTERIES. Even if you dont UNHOOK them. Prolonged hookups no matter where you are east west south or north, and not being used allows for electrolosis to set up. Thats that ugly green crap that forms on wires. It will and can REAK HAVOC on anything electrical. I dont completely understand how but it does. It will creep up your wires right into the main engine wiring harness and then you realy have a problem.

[Abbeysdad]

No worries on the batteries - planned on putting them in the unheated basement (stays around 55F down there) and charging them (keeping them charged) a couple of times through the winter.

[BeaverIslander]

Originally Posted by Abbeysdad

I think the PVC frame is a good idea (I was thinking 2x2 wood) as well as pulling the batteries, electronics and TM...not sure I would remove the windshield, just protect it from the weight of any snow. The cold won't bother that glass anymore than a windshield on a car...but maybe some are Plexiglas.

I was thinking the weight of snow on the cover/tarp may crack it. Not the cold.