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Old 06-22-12, 02:07 PM   #26
bassboogieman
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I was never a fan of screwing the pedal to the deck. Mine's now in a recessed tray, but I liked being able to position the pedal for standing or sittting. While the tray just about eliminates the changing of the pedal position it's much more comfortable, either sitting or standing, with it lowered. The other thing with it screwed down it's easier to trip over as it won't move, and rather than it moving across the deck it may be you on the deck or worse in the water. I always had a rubber strap (bungie cord will work) to secure the pedal on the deck when running on plane.
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Old 06-22-12, 02:12 PM   #27
IUbass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassboogieman View Post
I was never a fan of screwing the pedal to the deck. Mine's now in a recessed tray, but I liked being able to position the pedal for standing or sittting. While the tray just about eliminates the changing of the pedal position it's much more comfortable, either sitting or standing, with it lowered. The other thing with it screwed down it's easier to trip over as it won't move, and rather than it moving across the deck it may be you on the deck or worse in the water. I always had a rubber strap (bungie cord will work) to secure the pedal on the deck when running on plane.
Thats a good idea. Never thought of that
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Old 06-22-12, 06:46 PM   #28
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try glueing a piece of rug no slip padding to the base of motor. it will still let you move it but won't slip when using it
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Old 07-31-12, 01:39 PM   #29
IUbass
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The problem I was trying to eliminate happened. The wood cover for the lid warped. I have put weights on it, and it has helped, but once it tries back it goes right back to where it was. My question is which road should I take now? I have thought of 3 options:
1) make another piece of wood and waterproof it with waterproof varnish, then cover with carpet.
2) make another piece but this time of metal, cut it to size, then carpet. The only problem is I would need some pieces of rubber to make it level from the rest of the wood.
3) grab another piece of wood and cut it, then fiberglass it. then cover.

Any imput would be awesome. Also, is there an easy way to guide the wires through the sides so I can directly connect the radio? It looks like the picture. It pretty much looks like it would be horrible to do. I just dont want to splice into any wires.
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Old 07-31-12, 06:20 PM   #30
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Use wood. Coat it in spar urathane and then carpet it.
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Old 07-31-12, 06:37 PM   #31
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Use wood. Coat it in spar urathane and then carpet it.
Awesome thanks. Should I do a few coats even if it says one?
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Old 07-31-12, 07:15 PM   #32
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Just liquid nail the end that slips over,mine hasnt come loose
Make sure its flush till dry other wise paste n forget,tiny finishing nail driven in will hold till it does
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Old 08-07-12, 12:04 PM   #33
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Great Job. I made some notes so that I will have them when I do the same thing. Thanks.
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Old 09-03-12, 10:03 AM   #34
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Whats up fellas? Im new to the sight and just reading through posts for fun. I recarpeted a skeeter bass boat with the indoor/outdoor carpet from Lowe's a few years ago. Future reference to anyone.... I used the 3M brand spray adhesive (#90 high strength). It had a super strong bond, even on the edges. Application was simple and mess free. After you cut the carpet out for and individual cabinet etc..., you spray the backside of the carpet, and spray the cabinet too. You wait about on minute and apply. On my cabinets, I made my carpet seams fold on around and end on the inside of the cabinet, right where it made the 90 degree bend. I pressed the end of the carpet into the 90 degree corners with a putty knife. Hope this helps any if my directions make sense.
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