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Old 04-01-13, 09:25 AM   #1
MallenManson
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Default Jon Boat battery question

As some of you may remember, I inherited my Grandpa's Jon Boat last year.

I've got major plans to turn a stock 14' Baycraft DJR into a pimped out fishing machine

The boat is rated for 315# occupants, and 460 occupants and gear, so weight is certainly an issue.

I've found the troller (endura c2 55) and the fishfinder (humminbird 581 HD di) that I want to install.

I've heard plenty of negatives on running the troller and FF off the same battery.
I have a small rechargable battery that I used to power the Yak's FF, but I'm leaning towards installing 2 batteries, one for each item, which would allow me to switch to the FF battery, if I drained the troller battery.

Weight is certainly a concern, especially when lifting the back of the boat to push it into the truck.

Also, if utilizing 2 batteries, is there an economical way to charge both at the same time?

Any thoughts? Suggestions?
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Old 04-01-13, 07:05 PM   #2
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have you seen those solar chargers . i am not real familar with them but you may only need one battary and charge as you fish
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Old 04-01-13, 07:18 PM   #3
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have you seen those solar chargers . i am not real familar with them but you may only need one battary and charge as you fish
I've seen em from afar
I've been considering one for quite some time.
A small one would have been ideal for the FF on the yak
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Old 04-01-13, 07:33 PM   #4
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Mallen you're looking at 100+ lbs no matter how you cut it. Many people wire 2 batterys parallel and run troller and sonar off the same. If you decide to run the sonar on a seperate battery you could move it up front to even out the weight. As far as charging definately spring for a 3 phase Microprocessor charger and hook the pos. to one battery and the neg. to the other battery. Depth finders really don't draw many amps compared to a TM and unless your worried about interference I'd just run them both together. In over 20 years of doing it that way only once did I have a finder act crazy when the TM was on high.
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ps we're going to need pics of the finished mac daddy jon.
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Old 04-01-13, 07:38 PM   #5
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Mallen you're looking at 100+ lbs no matter how you cut it. Many people wire 2 batterys parallel and run troller and sonar off the same. If you decide to run the sonar on a seperate battery you could move it up front to even out the weight. As far as charging definately spring for a 3 phase Microprocessor charger and hook the pos. to one battery and the neg. to the other battery. Depth finders really don't draw many amps compared to a TM and unless your worried about interference I'd just run them both together. In over 20 years of doing it that way only once did I have a finder act crazy when the TM was on high.
Attachment 8644

ps we're going to need pics of the finished mac daddy jon.
Thanks Ken!
Yeah, I'm definitely leery of the weight.
I'll give it a test run with one battery once the ice is gone, and go from there.

And you just KNOW I'm gonna have some boat pics
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Old 04-01-13, 07:42 PM   #6
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Here's a side question, and most likely a stoopid one

I'll be adding 1 1/8" polystyrene between every floor rib to even the deck before adding plywood and carpet.

This will aid in flotation, correct?
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Old 04-02-13, 09:30 AM   #7
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The bad thing about a 12v T/m is that they will almost always drain a single battery before you're ready to quit fishing. You either have carry a spare and switch them when the first dies, or if you are using two batteries it's probably better to use two wired in parallel (NOT IN SERIES). You can also run you electronics from those, you may have some interference from the T/m when you engage it, won't really know until you try it. If you do, you could split the batteries, one for your T/m the other for the electronics then use the "spare" battery to power your T/m the remainder of the day or at least get you back to the dock. Either way, if you want a full on the water I don't think one battery will do it.

The poly will give you some flotation. One thing with all the modifications - 460# total capicity is NOT a lot. Heck if I was fishing with you, we could have one rod each, no tackle bag, and no lunch bucket, the batteries would have to be left at the ramp and we would still be over... BE CAREFUL!
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Old 04-02-13, 10:10 AM   #8
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The bad thing about a 12v T/m is that they will almost always drain a single battery before you're ready to quit fishing. You either have carry a spare and switch them when the first dies, or if you are using two batteries it's probably better to use two wired in parallel (NOT IN SERIES). You can also run you electronics from those, you may have some interference from the T/m when you engage it, won't really know until you try it. If you do, you could split the batteries, one for your T/m the other for the electronics then use the "spare" battery to power your T/m the remainder of the day or at least get you back to the dock. Either way, if you want a full on the water I don't think one battery will do it.

The poly will give you some flotation. One thing with all the modifications - 460# total capicity is NOT a lot. Heck if I was fishing with you, we could have one rod each, no tackle bag, and no lunch bucket, the batteries would have to be left at the ramp and we would still be over... BE CAREFUL!
Haha, no doubt!
As it is,I only have 1 fishin buddy that comes in under the weight limit for 2 occupants.

I'm 175 and he's 145, which would give us 40 pounds to spare there.

I never ran my battery out with my plastic boat, but I also don't know how close I ever came. That was also with only a 30# TM, and I plan on spending some more time on bigger water.

Sounds like I'll have to play it by ear. I can buy the 2nd battery with no worries, since I'll be putting my plastic boat/troller/battery up for sale anyways.

If it looks like it'll handle the weight of the 2nd, I can pick up a 3rd later.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-02-13, 10:31 AM   #9
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Most john boats have the required floatation in the seats so adding foam is not required.
It will add a little to the weight but not much. It will however keep the noise down a bit so that is good. I use those foam mats on my boat you see in high traffic areas. They interlock and can be cut to any size.

One more thing is the moisture from the foam will rot the wood and provide a welcome home to mice and ants..

So in my mind put the foam on top with Velcro strips. Remove after a big rain and let wood dry.

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Old 04-02-13, 02:26 PM   #10
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Most john boats have the required floatation in the seats so adding foam is not required.
It will add a little to the weight but not much. It will however keep the noise down a bit so that is good. I use those foam mats on my boat you see in high traffic areas. They interlock and can be cut to any size.

One more thing is the moisture from the foam will rot the wood and provide a welcome home to mice and ants..

So in my mind put the foam on top with Velcro strips. Remove after a big rain and let wood dry.

Capt Mike
Good info, but the foam is actually going in between the floor ribs, so I have a solid level platform to install the deck on
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Old 04-02-13, 03:14 PM   #11
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Capt, if you stop back by, I have a couple questions:

Are you talking about the polystyrene soaking up moisture?
It's been my experience that it takes a lot of time and a lot of water before it will soak it up.

Do you see a problem with that happening, as any water will run off and into the drainage ribs?

If you do see that occurring, how bout usin a vapor barrier?

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-02-13, 07:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MallenManson View Post
Capt, if you stop back by, I have a couple questions:

Are you talking about the polystyrene soaking up moisture?
It's been my experience that it takes a lot of time and a lot of water before it will soak it up.

Do you see a problem with that happening, as any water will run off and into the drainage ribs?

If you do see that occurring, how bout usin a vapor barrier?

Thanks in advance
consider this is the weight that the foam adds really worth it. Keep in mind your adding more weight and not really gaining much floatation at all. If its to quite the floor only. I would recommend dyna mat. Most foam you add really isn't worth its weight quite litteraly most of the time.
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Old 04-02-13, 07:55 PM   #13
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The foam is only to level the bottom before installing the deck and carpet.
And we're talkin like 5# extra weight for the foam
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Old 04-02-13, 10:00 PM   #14
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I would recommend a barrier between the foam and the deck.
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Old 04-02-13, 10:06 PM   #15
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I would recommend a barrier between the foam and the deck.
Cool. Thanks!!!
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Old 04-02-13, 10:39 PM   #16
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Keep in mind when u install your barrier that any moisture all ready there will stay there so go over it a few times to make sure you get a dry install.
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Old 04-02-13, 10:50 PM   #17
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Thanks! Will do!
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Old 04-10-13, 03:00 PM   #18
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Sorry for the slow reply. Using foam to level will:
1. hold moisture under deck.
2. prevent flow of water to drain in back
3. Provide a home for ants
4. Add a little weight

Even with a moisture barrier the wood will never dry once wet.

Might I suggest ribs cut from side to side with cut outs for drainage.
Also I suggest painting with Interlux inside and out.. throw gripping sand on top deck too. Forget carpet.

Cheap and will last a long time. Here is link to what I am talking about.. http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewto...28934&start=15

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Old 04-10-13, 04:51 PM   #19
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I think we may be talking about different kinds of boats.

http://www.bassfishin.com/bassfishin...ad.php?t=33611
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Old 04-10-13, 09:15 PM   #20
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Ohh my bad..

That tinboats site has a lot of good info.

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Old 04-11-13, 09:42 AM   #21
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Yeah ive been to that site quite a bit
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