Wetsanding?

jasonfish320 · 03-19-09, 10:24 AM

Well, the boat is coming out of storage tomorrow and will be back home...finally! I have the entire weekend to myself and am thinking about tackling wetsanding...has anyone ever done it? and if so what kind of results did you get and how difficult was it? I have read a lot on the subject, but never tried it. I'm a little nervous about putting sandpaper to my glass...

OrygunBasser · 03-19-09, 12:35 PM

Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wetsanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander/buffer if you do not own one...a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat.

All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer.
You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.

3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.

Wet Sandpaper in 1000/1200/1500/ grit.
You can adjust the grit # lower if the fading is real bad.

3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
3M Final Glaze # 06066

Any hard Carnuba Marine Wax

1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.

Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.

2nd step is to wet sand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.
Sand in a back and forth motion, not in circles.

Start with the 1000 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1200 grit, and rinse, then again with the 1500 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru LOL..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.

When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.

3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.

4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.

By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again.
The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnuba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as ti comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..

bamabassman · 03-19-09, 05:04 PM

thank you oreeeeeeeeeegun. i want to do this as well. now i have a step by step guide.

boater · 03-19-09, 06:01 PM

Mac Crumley at NorrisCraft boats told me that gell coat is not like paint you cant burn it.He took a buffer and beared down on it with 3M polishing compound till the buffer was struggleing to run .Then lightened up as the compound dryed till it was just floating over the finish .It looked like NEW only thing was he only did a 2 SQ foot area to show me And I had to do the rest of the boat LOL

jasonfish320 · 03-20-09, 09:54 AM

After discussing the wetsanding job with a boatbuilder I am going to do the rubbing compound instead...I don't have a lot of oxidation and according to him if I use Collonite#920 and then use the Fleetwax#885 it should last for months and look like new, so I'm going to try this first...I will keep you posted on results...he mentioned that I should apply the compound only by hand and not use a buffer

boater · 03-21-09, 11:55 AM

I wish I had taken before and after pictures the difference in astounding

OrygunBasser · 03-21-09, 07:59 PM

I have done this numerous times and I found this:

There are oils in the rubbing compound, an I wipe the surface with laquer thinner to remove the oils when I do a small spot and when it evaporates it will show you if you are finished or not.. Contrary to popular beleif the laquer thinner will not harm the Gel coat! If you do not do this you will have a disapointing result after a few weeks when the finish will look all splotchy!!!

jasonfish320 · 03-23-09, 11:57 AM

Okay...after 14 hours of hard labor I was able to get the boat looking like showroom condition..here's what went down...

1) cleaned all glass surfaces with marine wash and water (a little goes a long way) I mixed a cap full in a spray bottle w/water and cleaned all the grime off...

2) collonites #920 rubbing compound(used on planes)...LOTS AND LOTS OF ELBOW GREASE...I cannot emphasize this more...it took me roughly 2 mins. to clean a 1foot by 1foot area...This stuff is crazy, it literally breaks down the grime/old wax and oxidation...just be sure to immediately dry the area to remove all the compound..took me 8 hours on a 20' boat

Thank god I was able to watch some college hoops at the same time

3) 2 coats of Fleetwax by collinite...this has to be the best wax I have every used.....must be careful not to let it sit too long, I practiced on one little spot and it comes off hard if you let it dry too long..

Orygun, not sure about the report on the rubbing compound, but sounds like it wasn't used properly, you got to really work this stuff for it to work and also wipe it all off after....I work with someone who builds boats and has been around them for almost 30 years...he says that 90% of the time the person applying the compound doesn't work it hard enough..

I will add some photos when the sun decides to come out a bit

OrygunBasser · 03-23-09, 01:02 PM

Did you do all this by hand with no buffer???

jasonfish320 · 03-23-09, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrygunBasser

Did you do all this by hand with no buffer???

Yes, all by hand!

The buffer only seemed to remove some of the surface stuff but didn't really get all the old crud and oxidation, the only way to really get it super clean is by hand

OrygunBasser · 03-23-09, 04:37 PM

What kind of a pad was on the buffer? Was it a real buffer and not an orbital?

03-19-09, 10:24 AM	#1
jasonfish320 BassFishin.Com Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: MAINEIAC Posts: 585	Wetsanding? Well, the boat is coming out of storage tomorrow and will be back home...finally! I have the entire weekend to myself and am thinking about tackling wetsanding...has anyone ever done it? and if so what kind of results did you get and how difficult was it? I have read a lot on the subject, but never tried it. I'm a little nervous about putting sandpaper to my glass... __________________ "If at first you don't succeed; have another beer"

03-19-09, 12:35 PM	#2
OrygunBasser BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Lakeside, Oregon Posts: 159	Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wetsanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander/buffer if you do not own one...a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat. All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer. You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model. 3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing. Wet Sandpaper in 1000/1200/1500/ grit. You can adjust the grit # lower if the fading is real bad. 3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973 3M Final Glaze # 06066 Any hard Carnuba Marine Wax 1st step is to remove all the hardware you can. Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass. 2nd step is to wet sand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper. Sand in a back and forth motion, not in circles. Start with the 1000 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1200 grit, and rinse, then again with the 1500 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru LOL..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes. When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded. 3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel. When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat. 4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat. By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again. The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnuba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as ti comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver.. __________________ You may practice catch and release as a religion but that doesn't mean that the next person has to bow down to your god!

03-19-09, 05:04 PM	#3
bamabassman BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: cedar bluff, alabama Posts: 15,292	thank you oreeeeeeeeeegun. i want to do this as well. now i have a step by step guide. __________________ so many lures, so little time.

03-20-09, 09:54 AM	#5
jasonfish320 BassFishin.Com Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: MAINEIAC Posts: 585	After discussing the wetsanding job with a boatbuilder I am going to do the rubbing compound instead...I don't have a lot of oxidation and according to him if I use Collonite#920 and then use the Fleetwax#885 it should last for months and look like new, so I'm going to try this first...I will keep you posted on results...he mentioned that I should apply the compound only by hand and not use a buffer __________________ "If at first you don't succeed; have another beer"

03-21-09, 07:59 PM	#7
OrygunBasser BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Lakeside, Oregon Posts: 159	I have done this numerous times and I found this: There are oils in the rubbing compound, an I wipe the surface with laquer thinner to remove the oils when I do a small spot and when it evaporates it will show you if you are finished or not.. Contrary to popular beleif the laquer thinner will not harm the Gel coat! If you do not do this you will have a disapointing result after a few weeks when the finish will look all splotchy!!! __________________ You may practice catch and release as a religion but that doesn't mean that the next person has to bow down to your god!

03-19-09, 06:01 PM	#4
boater BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: O'Fallon Missouri Posts: 283	Mac Crumley at NorrisCraft boats told me that gell coat is not like paint you cant burn it.He took a buffer and beared down on it with 3M polishing compound till the buffer was struggleing to run .Then lightened up as the compound dryed till it was just floating over the finish .It looked like NEW only thing was he only did a 2 SQ foot area to show me And I had to do the rest of the boat LOL

03-21-09, 11:55 AM	#6
boater BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: O'Fallon Missouri Posts: 283	I wish I had taken before and after pictures the difference in astounding

03-23-09, 11:57 AM	#8
jasonfish320 BassFishin.Com Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: MAINEIAC Posts: 585	Okay...after 14 hours of hard labor I was able to get the boat looking like showroom condition..here's what went down... 1) cleaned all glass surfaces with marine wash and water (a little goes a long way) I mixed a cap full in a spray bottle w/water and cleaned all the grime off... 2) collonites #920 rubbing compound(used on planes)...LOTS AND LOTS OF ELBOW GREASE...I cannot emphasize this more...it took me roughly 2 mins. to clean a 1foot by 1foot area...This stuff is crazy, it literally breaks down the grime/old wax and oxidation...just be sure to immediately dry the area to remove all the compound..took me 8 hours on a 20' boat Thank god I was able to watch some college hoops at the same time 3) 2 coats of Fleetwax by collinite...this has to be the best wax I have every used.....must be careful not to let it sit too long, I practiced on one little spot and it comes off hard if you let it dry too long.. Orygun, not sure about the report on the rubbing compound, but sounds like it wasn't used properly, you got to really work this stuff for it to work and also wipe it all off after....I work with someone who builds boats and has been around them for almost 30 years...he says that 90% of the time the person applying the compound doesn't work it hard enough.. I will add some photos when the sun decides to come out a bit __________________ "If at first you don't succeed; have another beer" Last edited by jasonfish320; 03-23-09 at 12:43 PM.

03-23-09, 01:02 PM	#9
OrygunBasser BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Lakeside, Oregon Posts: 159	Did you do all this by hand with no buffer??? __________________ You may practice catch and release as a religion but that doesn't mean that the next person has to bow down to your god!

03-23-09, 04:37 PM	#11
OrygunBasser BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Lakeside, Oregon Posts: 159	What kind of a pad was on the buffer? Was it a real buffer and not an orbital? __________________ You may practice catch and release as a religion but that doesn't mean that the next person has to bow down to your god!

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