Making Jigs chip resistant

[LSLURES]

I have done the oven thing for a long time now and cannot get the heat and timing right so the paint on the jigs will set up right. I am selling these jigs like crazy where I live and i DO NOT want to sell anymore until i get these things chip resistant. Is there a clear coat or something i can use or any other ideas>? Thanks

Another question is where can i get small guage wire in black? I am done tying jigs with silver wire and wanted to get black....any ideas where to get that? Thanks guys

RYAN
L&S LURES

[3dkicker]

Jig maker I know uses an air brush to do his. He also uses a clear coat as well. Don't know the brand names of the paint or clear.

[Embrey]

doubt anythings gonna be chip resistant when dealing with rocks.

[LSLURES]

I know it wont make it 100% resistant but most guys bake them and cure them in the oven to make them tougher.........for some reason i cant get that down to a science yet......just wanting to hear other options

[CamG]

If you have a large enough volume to warrant it, a two part automotive clear coat will do the job. It is very chip resistant, and I know that some of the larger jig/spinnerbait companies use this method.

[LSLURES]

I looked into that but i cannot find a solid clear coat that isnt a grey film like a primer........i just cant seem to find what i want but that is an option......Thanks CamG

[LSLURES]

i just want something that will last for a days worth of fishing where the paint stays in tact and no silver lead is showing........IMO that is the sign of a poorly assembled jig, i want to most out of the products i make and I want everyone as happy as I am.

[CamG]

Originally Posted by LSLURES

I looked into that but i cannot find a solid clear coat that isnt a grey film like a primer........i just cant seem to find what i want but that is an option......Thanks CamG

There is nothing more clear than a two part urethane clear coat that they use on auto paints.


http://www.topsecretcoatings.com/aut...ane-clear.html

[LSLURES]

Oh ok i must have been looking at the wrong stuff then, yea thats just so pricey, I mean Im selling around 30 a week around here and I supply 4 local bait shops and they are already wanting to stock up, i just hate seeing people look down on my hard work......i may look into that CamG, i appreciate you clearing that up for me, i have no idea when it comes to that stuff.

[apd855]

Best stuff in the world for clearcoating anything.
http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/

[carolina-rig-01]

Curing the heads after the powder coat is crucial to a durable finish. I suggest that you keep tinkering around with the times and temperatures that you are curing them for and see if you can get it right (use the list I gave you a while back of each color and how long and for what temperature you cure them at). A jig is going to get the paint knocked off of the head regardless of the finish, they are just beat around rocks too much to avoid it completely, however I have had a lot of people praise how tough the finish is on my jigheads and all I did was cure them at the recommended time that was on the list I gave you. I have heard of people using denatured alcahol to thin two part epoxy and apply it to a heated jighead for a tough coat, can't say whether it works or not though.

[Bender]

On swim jigs I paint the eyes on by hand so they need a clearcoat to protect them. I have been using CS Coatings' Seal-Coat. It works pretty well and it would be easy if you could dip them but I can't. You need something to hold the jigs up as this dries if you dip them otherwise it all runs into the eye. I brush it on with two thin coats. Even with that I think that it would be better if I had a drying wheel.

Also when you are curing the powder paint make sure the temperature is correct. I use an oven thermometer right on the cookie sheet that holds up my rack. I have found that some ovens are not very accurate.

[AtticaFish]

L&S - Don't do near that many and don't sell so i have a little more time to spend. I use a 2 part / 5 minute epoxy that holds up really well through the rocks. It is translucent amber but only noticably (sp?) alters the color of a white jig head. Have to mix it up in very small portions and work quickly... can do about 4 jigs before the epoxy sets too hard to coat the head. Makes a thick & shiny top coat.

I do know some guys on a another forum who have the powder painting down pretty well, but not sure i can give the link here? Have used some of their jigs before and it takes ALOT to chip off their paint!!! I know they say you need to have a digital thermometer to be sure you are at the correct temp. It takes awhile for certain ovens to recover to the correct temp.

For the wire.... have you checked out any craft shops? They often cary thin gauge (20-30) in many colors. It works well for fly tying.

These were epoxy coated after painting them with nail polish:

[Embrey]

heres a tip...rough the lead up as much as possible before coating to give it more grabbing power

[Lvitch]

Yep. Paint adhesion is all in the prep, and following the directions. Personally I buy them unpainted, n use a sharpie on the heads. I want them to look a little beat up. But I understand most customers don't.