07-18-12, 03:19 PM | #1 |
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Looking for ideas
Ok someone of you know I'v neen playing on the river.
Fished many a river but I have some challenges at this spot. There is a couple of 'double over pass' pilars I've been fishing. Fishing for smallies with fair success. Now I found a very effective system but it 'abuses' the line terribly. Here's what I'm doing: Got a pillar with an up stream and a down stream side as well as a right and left side. The pillars are holding 'two laners' going each direction (road direction) so the pillars are about 12 feet long and 2 maybe 3 feet wide. Current is not really strong (extreme low water) but down stream there is a power plant so there is always some current. If an angler was to toss a 1/8 oz. jig it would sink but very very slowly mostly after or outside the immediate pillar current that surrounds all pillars. A 1/4 will fall better but remember unless your boating or directly throwing or dropping next to current the line will catch in current and drag both mentioned wieghts...and frankly THAT IS the SYSTEM. I'm throwing a fluke on a wieghted 1/8 oz. 3/0 hook. Now there are specifics about angles and distance and stuff but the basics are, Standing 3 feet up stream of pillar on left side. Toss fluke across to the right side and let the line catch current with a slight loop on left side so the line will catch current on left side pulling the fluke on the right side to the piling and slowly will get pulled along the right of pillar and dragged across the up stream point of pillar. Once it clears the pillar the current on left side will catch the fluke and kind of get dragged down the left side of pillar by the current. ( kind of like a top water getting wrapped around a tree in current only with the long pillar not allowing it to wrap rather pulled along right till clears then continue with the current down the left side). Still following me? Now the challenge. The line I'm using is 14lb flouro and the pillings are nicking the heck out of the line. Now I don't want to really spool with heavier line cause this bite could end tommorrow (water dropped 8inches from 10 o'clock last night till daybreak this morning. Water is now like 3 feet deep) and I have no other use for heavier line. Now the easy answer is splice or add a leader of like 50 lb test to the end but anyone that can tell me another option will be greatly appreciated. Oh the bite usually comes on the left side float but can come on the right side too. Maybe the easy answer is the only answer. Thanks in advance for your ideas. Have a great day!
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07-18-12, 03:37 PM | #2 |
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I need a diagram.
Baited question as I can't think of any option. You're getting the bite, so other than checking the line often, cutting off and re-tying there isn't much to change. Changing to a heavier leader may stop the bite as would heavier line. Possibly a more abraision resistant F/c line but that's likely be more expensive, with less managability, and you'll still have to cut & retie possibly just less often. Just keep whacking them while you can and make the best of it. Last edited by bassboogieman; 07-18-12 at 03:47 PM. |
07-18-12, 04:06 PM | #3 |
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What about using a 20lb braid leader? Will be more abrasion resistant for at least much longer intervals I would think?
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07-18-12, 04:10 PM | #4 |
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Try Magna Flex line. I used to use that stuff in the pads until I started using braid. Tough as nails and I used to cast it on a spinning reel until I started using baitcasters. So it's very manageable and no memory. The only way it broke was on purpose.
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07-18-12, 04:39 PM | #5 |
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Braid really isn't verry abrasion resistant on rough surfaces.
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07-18-12, 05:24 PM | #6 |
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Thanks all!
Ya I'm suffering from the infamous 'lazy angler disease' I may look into that Magna Flex line. I just am so used to and like my line I use but at 18 bucks for 240 yds. I thought instead of hacking it away at like 2-3 feet a retie maybe I could come up with something to slow down the cash registar. I think the challenge with the braid technique is I'm thinking I need some line sinkage so the fluke will drop cause I do feel the fluke needs to hit bottom on the left side drop. I do carry a braid with for poppers and frogs so I may check it but not sure if it fitd yet. I'm using the SK 'caffeine shad' because they got that little 'bulb' thing on the tail which I really think is triggering strikes on the left side float and drag part of the stratagy.(The jiggling and floating of the tail in the current ) Hey before I bought them I reviewed the "coffee post I made awhile back that you anglers so graciously helped me with....I got them on sale, I like the smell, they mask human sent and if I run into a young lady fishing we can stop for a ' A&W Root Beer" and I can probably get her to stick a couple in her front pocket so I'm no in 'NIRVANA' Sorry about that, I am very serious about this question though, so sorry to sidetrack everyone. Hey and thanks for working through my explanation.
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07-18-12, 05:26 PM | #7 |
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Sometimes the obvious answer is the simplest. I know you own waders and or a float tube. Just wade or float out there amongst them
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07-18-12, 08:52 PM | #8 |
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I think Bruce had the best overall suggestion, and that is to just realize their is no easy fix. Cutting and retying is probably your best option overall. Myself, I would try using a cheeper abrasion resistant mono instead of Flourocarbon. Both are going to get nicked and need retying often. So for short term use, I dont really see any advantage to using a much more costly flourocarbon.
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07-18-12, 09:48 PM | #9 |
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Ken I can actually walk out there right now.
Keith, Bruce I was afraid that the hard way was probably the only way but heck I had to try. See the challenge is the presentation I feel needs the whole system, the drag, the drop, the float.
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