How do I make feathered trebles?

[jooleyen]

Where is the best place to get the feathers? Pillows?
I have the string.
Now what is the best method to wrap it around?

[Jim80]

islandbass is prob the one to ask about that .

[crankybait]

i use bucktail. But yeah, down feathers would work. jannsnetcraft sells. you can also dye the feathers. bring the thread thru the eyehole then wrap around he feathers near the hole. wrap it tight. cover it with head cement when you are done, holds nicely

[islandbass]

If you have a flytackle shop in nearby or even a sportsman's warehouse. I was trying to put together a tutorial on the process, but the initial picts came out crappy. When I get the chance, I will put it together. Thanks!

[jooleyen]

Cool. Thanks guys. I actually asked because of a post you made before.

[JB]

I went to the farmer next door and got plenty of chicken feathers, tied them on and glued them to popRs, the longer feathers open an close dif than the store bought models. You can use white and put some kind of red tinsel or something to the effect of a heckle to make the tail look even sweeter IMO
On the water, there are differences you may (or may not) notice depending on how you fish topwaters. How you fish topwaters (or how they fish for you) depends on several factors such as the rod, reel, line you use, how you connect the topwater to the line, how you hold the rod and how you work it. Generally, a soft rod works best. I like a seven footer and I like a high speed retrieve reel, typically spinning. I like monofilament (Berkley Big Game from 8 to 15 lb. test) as opposed to braid or fluorocarbon for topwaters.
As for the connection, there are 3 different ways to connect a topwater:
1. A tight knot (Palomar or Uni-knot)
2. A loop knot
3. A split ring or wire clip
I usually start the day with a wire clip. I like the fact that the wire clip allows me to instantly switch models and colors of topwaters between casts without retying the knot. Once I find which model and color is working, I have no compunctions about tying direct to the bait with a Uni-knot.
As for rod posture, there are two alternatives:
1. rod up
2. rod down and to the side
You typically hear that the rod should be held down and to the side to get the best action with topwaters. Maybe this is true in theory. In actuality, whether you are popping from a boat or from a bank, there are many times when you cannot get the rod down to the side like that - something is often blocking the way, and it's a compromising situation to pop the lure and to set the hook free and clear when you hold the rod down and to the side. Therefore, I just hold the rod tip up to work topwaters. Usually, nothing gets in the way when you work the lure or set the hook with the tip up. So, I stick to that.
Those are my own personal "givens". The conditions I impose upon myself - rod up, mono, spinning, a wire clip or Uni-knot - and I make the bait work the best it can "given" those self-imposed conditions. I have confidence in doing that. It makes everything simpler for me. It allows me to concentrate on catching fish rather than how to hold the rod, how to manage the line and what not. Maybe I cannot talk and chew gum at the same time, but I can usually pop up a few!
Which bait is best? All these lures will behave slightly differently. As you use one or the other, you may find desirable properties (or simply confidence) in one of these baits rigged and fished in one way that you prefer. Generally, if I want a slashy, spitty bait, I go to the Yamamoto Sugoi and work it fast with very short, frequent rod tip movements. If I want a muddled popper with more of a walking attitude to it, I go to the Yellow Magic and I draw it along the surface more between slashes. I use those two most. Then, of course, there are others such as the Chug Bugs which I like to use more slowly than the others. If my partner is chug-bugging a bunch, I put it on and imitate the action that he's giving to it, which is usually slower and more hesitant than I use on my own. To go really slow - almost no action at all - I like the unmodified Pop'r which I just let sit there forever without moving it except for an occasional "BLOOP". Bass cream it as it lies motionless between intermittent bloops. I'm not sure of ALL the G-Splash may be able to do, but in testing the G-Splash, I think it's a good candidate for that "do nothing" deal, and I feel the realistic color shading on the G-Splash can be a positive when bass are taking a long look at it. I'm not a fish, so I do not know how they see, but I am well-convinced they do not see like we do. I do suspect they detect ALL the colors on the bait - belly, sides AND top, due to the infinite light refractory angles bounced back to them off the water's surface, plus the bait itself walking and rolling side-to-side. All that lets them see the whole enchilada I think.
The tail end for sure. Chicken tail feathers are a given on poppers. Why? Simply more fish bite them. I like them long, soft, and very thin. With thin feathers, I like a 5 count in the tail, and I like one to be chartreuse. It's good if say 2-3 of them are 1 1/2- 1 3/4", one's like 2" and another 2 1/2" rather than all equal length. With "fat" feathers, only 4 of them with 1 chartreuse. Of course, all white is usually that comes in the package, and that's okay.

[jooleyen]

Holy crap JB. Tell me that was saved and you didn't JUST type that.

Thanks though!

[islandbass]

That sounds similar to what I learned from someone who went by the name of Ranger Rob.

Chicken feathers rock. Ranger Rob told me that they give the best action and as one who took his advice, I agree.