11-30-10, 11:30 PM | #1 |
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Snap Swivels?
I have on setup for my crankbaits, I constantly switch crankbaits while out fishing. Can a snap swivel mess up the action of a crankbait?
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11-30-10, 11:51 PM | #2 |
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I use a similar setup, I use a #10 SPRO's power swivel, threaded onto a Norman's speed clip. It allows for quick bait changes, and I have more faith in this setup than traditonal snaplock type swivels. I have not noticed any problems with the action of the attached bait.
Last edited by Tavery5; 12-01-10 at 12:56 AM. |
12-01-10, 07:18 AM | #3 |
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No, as a matter of fact Strom Wiffle warts now come with a snap instead of a split ring on the bill.
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12-01-10, 08:03 AM | #4 |
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I dont use the swivel portion, but rather just the duolock snap for my crankbaits. If anything, it increases the action of a crankbait, and some baits improve their action by using a snap. However, many will tell you that if the crank already has a split ring attached, the snap is not needed. And they would be right. But there is a convenience when changing baits often which is why I usually use a snap. Some worry about a snap failing to hold up under pressure. I can't remember that ever happening to me in all the years I've been fishing. Not saying it isnt possible, just hasn't happened to me. There IS one BIG reason for not using a snap and that is that it forces you to retie your knot frequently which is a good idea anyway. Even when I do use a snap, I try to remember to retie it frquently throughout the days fishing.
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12-01-10, 09:04 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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12-01-10, 01:24 PM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
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Duolock snap: The kind I've had problems with and will never use again are the ones like these: BB
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12-01-10, 04:24 PM | #7 |
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Too much hardware on the front can affect the action - like those in the bottom photo above - and I see no reason for a swivel. This has been discussed many times, and I'm still a firm believer in Norman Speed Clips. I remove the split ring on virtually every hard plastic bait (cranks, topwater, lipless, etc), with the exception being a very few deep divers that have the line connection burried deep in the bill and the speed clip is difficult to attach. I change baits often and I hate tying knots (which also fail, especially if speedily tied - in my case anyway) and the speed clip is the easiest, fastest way for me. Haven't ever had one fail.
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12-01-10, 08:36 PM | #8 |
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Many people say a swivel screws up the action. I personally think I'd catch as many with a swivel as not.
Having said that, I don't use swivels because they serve no purpose with crankbaits. I use duolock snaps as illustrated above and I attach it to the line tie or split ring, whatever comes with the lure. It's not difficult to discipline oneself to check the line frequently for problems while using snaps.
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12-02-10, 04:39 PM | #9 |
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I never use swivels or snaps on any baits. Stop and think about what ya'll have said. You have to have a knot somewhere in the rig, I believe if the knot is a problem You are using the wrong knot or less line strength than you need. Had to many swivel failures and got away from them and will never go back, Don't think that tying direct or swivel helps or hurts action. Comes down to personal preference the way I see it and no way is wrong. Suit yoursel and fish what ever you have confidence in.
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12-02-10, 04:52 PM | #10 |
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12-02-10, 05:04 PM | #11 |
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Hey Marty, I know that my use of a swivel on my crankbaits goes against popular belief. But here is my theory, when you attach a doulock or speedclip to a crankbait there is an area where the two pieces touch during retrieval. The resistance of the crankbait moving through the water puts pressure on the area where these two pieces come together. For the crankbait to wobble back and forth, it is necessary for it to overcome the resistance of these two pieces rubbing together, however small it may be. With the swivel you eliminate this friction. Is this right or wrong, I don't know for certain, it is my perception, and perception is reality.
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12-03-10, 08:48 PM | #12 | |
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As for me, I could look at three identical crankbaits being retrieved, one each with direct tie, swivel, and snap, and all three would look like they wobble enticingly with no apparent differences. But that's just me, maybe others have keener powers of observation. I could put a snap swivel on a crankbait and not lose one iota of confidence in that bait's ability to draw strikes. It's just that I have no reason to do so.
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12-03-10, 10:28 PM | #13 |
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I really like what you had to say in the previous post. Guess it just comes down to personal preference and whatever each of us have confidence in.
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12-04-10, 10:50 AM | #14 |
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The purpose of a swivel is to prevent line twist - you do not get line twist with a crankbait in a normal retreive. Use of a clip, snap, split ring or loop knot all serve the same purpose: allowing the bait to swing freely of the line. I don't see how a swivel prevents friction any more than any other of the above mentioned connections, as the bait moves freely (wobbles) in the same manor within the connector of choice. It's not revolving like an in-line spinner, which a swivel would help in reducing line twist where the others would not. A swivel in conjuction with a snap only adds weight to the front of the bait and lengthens the hardware at the front of the lure, increasing the possibility of snagging one of the trebles on the cast. But, confidence is a big part of fishing, so if using a swivel helps your confidence, then by all means - tie one on.
Getting back to which you choose, it's a matter of what better suits your fishing style. I change baits frequently, color, size, shape all play a factor. The accepted standard of tying a bait to the split ring - for me - is a PITA, takes time, and increases the chance of tying a bad knot somewhere along the way. I can usually get away with one knot per day unless I have some fraying of the line above the snap, or some toothy critter bites it off. I take the time to tie the clip with a good knot and I'm done for the day, changing a lure 10, 20 or 30 times a day with the clip. Another reason is reducing the amount of line I discard with each knot. Each knot will use 6" of line (or more). Change lures 20 times and you've cut off and discarded 10' or more of line, that's expensive in addition to being wastefull. I can reduce changing lures quite so often when I'm in my boat, using 3 crankbait rods, but when fishing from the back of a friends boat, I'll likely only take one crankbait rod, which means I'll be changing lures much more often. If you do not have several rods for those baits, you'll also be changing baits more often and I recommend a clip. NOW, if I could only figure out some way to do this with spinnerbaits.................... |
12-04-10, 11:10 AM | #15 |
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The only reason I use snaps is for quick changing cranks. And I switch cranks quite a bit. I don't think adding a snap on top of a split ring is going to add action to the crank, that's what the split ring is there for. If your crank doesn't have one, add a split ring or use a snap.
The proper size snap swivel should not effect the action of the bait at all. Using one way too large will screw with the balance of the crank, messing up the action, the same way adding too large of hooks would. bassboogieman is also right, a swivel should not be needed on a crank that is running properly as it shouldn't spin, unless it gets tangles on the line or something. And in that case, the swivel still wouldn't help. But, like others have said, it's a confidence thing. Do what you have confidence in. BB
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12-04-10, 11:14 AM | #16 |
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Are you against using the breadwire tie across the R bend of a spinnerbait? Otherwise it might be an easy solution. The rubber bands that are used to hold jig skirts in place also work well.
I could go into a long post with pictures to explain my theory in detail to you, but lets just leave it that you have your ideas and I have mine. Neither is right or wrong, just a matter of preference. |
12-14-10, 04:48 PM | #17 |
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I tend to prefer swivels to snaps, but there are some heavier duty swivel+snap setups that I will use on occasion with cranks and spinner baits.
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01-03-11, 06:32 PM | #18 |
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Here is a handy chart on what to use on which bait.
USE SWIVELS ON Carolina rigs Fluke rigs In line spinners (If line twist occurs) USE SNAP SWIVELS OR SWIVELS ON Standard Spoons Mepps Syclops TIE DIRECT TO Buzz baits Chuggers (or split ring/duolock) Jigs Frogs/rats Prop baits Spinner baits Stick baits (i.e.Zara Spook) Tail spinners Weedless spoons Weight forward spinners TIE TO SPLIT RING OR DUOLOCK SNAP Crank baits Lipless crank baits Jerk baits Blade baits Jigging spoons* * Swivel if desired |
01-05-11, 09:51 PM | #19 |
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For cast and retrieve, I only use swivels on baits that are likely to cause line twist, such as spoons or in-line spinnerbaits. I also like them on C-rigs, as the additional weight is not near the bait, but far ahead, so it doesn't affect the presentation. As the Boogieman has stated, their sole purpose is to eliminate line twist.
Naturally, my main use for them is in trolling, where you might have a lure in the water for an hour at a time, slowly accumulating line twist otherwise. Nothing is worse than hanging a tiny piece of salad on a crank, and having is put a million twists into 50 yards of line, ruining it. However, since you don't want to ruin the action of the crank with the extra weight on the nose, you should use very small, yet strong stainless steel swivels, such as Sampos. They cost an arm and a leg, a couple bucks each sometimes, but they are worth it. They are surprisingly small for their strength.
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01-05-11, 10:10 PM | #20 |
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I use the duolock snaps on my cranks. I haven't had a prob with them. The biggest bass Ive caught on that set up was 4-1/2 and didnt cause a single issue
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