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Old 11-06-07, 06:03 AM   #51
1FASTLASER
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Ok Bass Stalker just for chits and grins ..................since I am not there at the motor where I can get my hands on it I need you to do this. Find a friend that has possibly a 22p prop and one that has a 26p prop. Run them both and report the numbers back to me. What I am trying to do is eliminate whether its the prop or you are experiencing motor problems. Please bear with me cause as sooon as we can get your motor to spin past 5500 rpm's we gonna make her get up and SCREAM!!! like a Laser should.
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Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!!
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Old 11-06-07, 07:18 PM   #52
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what 1fastrocksmacker failed to tell ya is when it does wake up and scream the first time. your going to need to change your drawers...

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Old 11-09-07, 06:32 AM   #53
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Damn I you dont know how bad I wish I was right there where I could get my hands on that motor and bote. ZOOK does. By the way ZOOK after the episode I am now VERY seriously considering a trade for the BLACK BEOTCH to a much more conservative hp rating. YOU know what I am talking about.
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Old 11-09-07, 03:55 PM   #54
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yep i do-read the e-mail- what ya thinkin 150 yamaha??

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Old 11-09-07, 08:41 PM   #55
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hi guys, I have put a 22p prop on it and the rpm's did not change and it felt like I am driving in third gear. That being said, I have to tell you that my boat is temporarily out of commission, seems my transom is rotting away, so I have to motor off and am beginning to clean out the rotten wood in the transom and rebuild. In talking to another individual who had a similar problem, turned out he had bad grounds. So, after cleaning all the grounds and tightening the terminals down with nuts instead of wingnuts and using dielectic grease, it ran a lot better, going to check that out when I finish repairing the transom.
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Old 11-10-07, 07:53 AM   #56
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OUCH! Hate to tell ya bud but you better take a look at the stringers while your in there. Lasers are bad about stringers and transoms going from rot. Thats why I am putting in composities on mine. Lets us know after ya get her bqack together. Ifn ya need any help on the resto lemme know. I have done a few of these beasts and have become ALL TO FAMILIAR with them.
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Old 11-10-07, 08:17 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zooker View Post
yep i do-read the e-mail- what ya thinkin 150 yamaha??

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LMAO!!! That was a shot in the ARSE. Yamaha would be blessed to be pushing me. ROTFLMAO!!!!








On a serious note I cant beleive I am typing this. My uddy has a early 90's 150ProV I am trying to talk out of. DONT GET YER HOPES UP THAT I AM GONNA BE RUNNING A HAMMER ITS JUST A THOUGHT RIGHT NOW
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Old 11-25-07, 01:48 AM   #58
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My$oo.02 Make sure the transom is fixed RIGHT you have a nice boat there,I had a '85 ltv with a 6 in J/P 150 HP merc XR-2 low water nose cone 26 pitch Hoss Triton Prop it ran 75 mph on it's best day I think they call em taco shells because of the light weight ( about 780 lbs.) thin hull, be carefull with it and have fun.
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Old 12-09-07, 08:09 PM   #59
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Hi guys, I am finally back, transom fixed and boat went back into the water today, no leaks and the motor did not fall off, that is the good news. However, everything else remains the same. Still not turning above 4800 and speed holding in mid 40's. Went through from the battery posts to the connections on the motor and cleaned all the terminals and made sure they were tight. Still no difference. Am ready to check something else...
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Old 12-09-07, 08:28 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FASTLASER View Post
On a serious note I cant beleive I am typing this. My uddy has a early 90's 150ProV I am trying to talk out of. DONT GET YER HOPES UP THAT I AM GONNA BE RUNNING A HAMMER ITS JUST A THOUGHT RIGHT NOW
drop a hyro tech phase two on it and you'll be say " merc who?"

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Old 12-10-07, 07:16 AM   #61
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Ok Bass Stalker time to get real serious with this motor. Do you have a manual. Cause now its time to start checking all the devices on the motor. Now I am leaning more to one of the power packs actually being ba. Something electronic is holding that thing back and not letting you get up in the RPM's. You are gonna need a manual and a decent multimeter and some patience. Lemme know ifn ya have this stuff or when you get it and we will start the procedures.
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Old 12-10-07, 06:40 PM   #62
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I agree it is time to check that pwer, sounds like it could be a switch box.
after the expence of the transom repair I would get that engine dinoed
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Old 12-11-07, 07:22 AM   #63
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Manuals with wiring diagrams and multimeter I have. I agree it seems to be something electronic. Not that this is a guarantee, but I did replace the power paks about a year ago when I first started trying to locate this problem. boater, you mentioned a switch box, what kind would I look for? Also, something I just learned from the guy who stored my motor while I was repairing the transom. There is a switch at the bottom of the throttle linkage that shuts down one of the power paks when you deplane in order to help disengage the prop if I understand correctly what he told me. Anyway, that switch is not connected, no wires. Also, there is a vacuum switch on the other side that is suppose to connect to a buzzer at the console when there is a crimp in the fuel line, that is also not connected. I don't believe they are related to the problem, just something new I found out.

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Old 12-16-07, 09:12 AM   #64
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First thing I would do is go ahead and ohm test the power packs. Then if they passed I would look at the stator and ohm test it as well. Of couse I should mentioned to test the coils as well. Something in that motor is not going ahead and cutting her loose. Ifn ya need some info on how to do these tests give a holler.
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Old 12-19-07, 03:44 PM   #65
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Okay, started testing things. First observation is at the accessory plug on the remote control. Across A to C when the key is on I get battery voltage just like I am supposed to. However, when the key is off and I should get zero, I am getting .22 volts. I need to take the remote control apart to get to the wiring. This leads to the second part. I loosed the two big screws on the face one on each side of the shifting lever. However, the control still feels like it is screwed down even though I cannot find anymore screws. Is it just stuck and I can pry it loose?
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Old 12-19-07, 10:36 PM   #66
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On Merc controls the cables are behind the gunnel you have to take the box apart and remove the handle
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Old 12-20-07, 07:02 AM   #67
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Sorry boater I have to partially disagree with you on this one. It actually depends on what box you have as to whether the controls cables are actually behind the gunnel or not. The Merc 3000 is the one your talking about....the 2000 if my numbers are correct is the one with cables veiwable. Anyways he has a Rude. That box Bass Stalker if it is the standard remote box should have only 2 scews holding it. They are Phillips head srcews approx. 2 1/4" long. Double check the back side with your hand to make sure that something hasnt been done that I am not aware of.
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Old 12-20-07, 08:43 AM   #68
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3 screws hold the remote box on rudes/johnson's togather. another 2-3 screws anchor it to it's mounting.. the screws that hold the box togather are normally found on the back side of the remote box. on the older omc's there is a voltage block on the side of the moter this helps greatly when doing ohm testing..

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Old 12-20-07, 09:00 AM   #69
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you are right I have the 3000 that was what I was talking about I just was not clear enough I was hurrying and should have waited but being he does not have a MERC I did not think it to be pertenent. I was just makeing the point that there could be more places to look. it took me 2 hours to find the nut to get my handle off and it was VERY frustrateing. but persistance will always either prevale or kill you. LOL
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Old 12-21-07, 04:30 PM   #70
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Time for an update: First, got the remote unit off by drilling the screws. Testing throughout the unit did not show any problems. Next, tested the coils and found nothing abnormal. Likewise, with the sensor coils. The charging coils came up a bit odd. According to one manual I have the resistance is supposed to be about 550. So I was looking for that. Both charging coils came in right about 1000. Thought I had found the problem until I read the other manual and it stated that the charging coils should be about 990. So I guess they are okay. Seems what I need to do now is get one of these CD voltmeters in order to do further testing. I seem to have exhausted what I can do with my current equipment.
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Old 12-21-07, 04:53 PM   #71
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Since the motor refuses to run over 4800 rpms I am leaning towards one of power packs. Right off the top of my head I cant remeber if there is a test you can do with a meter that actually tests the rev limiters in the packs. Do you still have the old power packs and may I ask why did you change them out??? We may be on to something now.
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Old 12-22-07, 07:14 AM   #72
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It was some time ago when I changed the power packs, but I believe I changed them when I first started working on this problem. It was just a guess. Before changing them again, I am going to buy a CD voltmeter. This will give me the ability to do much more testing including testing the output of the power packs replacing them again. Now that you mention it, I have to wonder if they sold me the right power packs. That would be a kick in the head if all this boiled down to having the wrong units in there.
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Old 12-22-07, 08:47 AM   #73
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Ok so the present problem was there when you changed the packs. I tell ya it would be so much easier ifn I was right there will all my tools. Could alleviate alot of time. After getting the meter give a holler so we can get this thing kicked in the arse.
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Old 12-23-07, 10:44 AM   #74
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One simple thing to try is to see if you have WOT mine had a clip slip ane would not alow cable to pull throttle open
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Old 12-24-07, 09:07 PM   #75
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tnx, boater, according to what I have seen and the mechanics all the plates are opening completely and together. Will follow up when I get the meter.
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