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Old 01-04-09, 10:25 PM   #1
Rebbasser
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Default New Reel Tip

Since some folks got new baitcast reels for Christmas-myself included-here is a tip that will allow you to cast farther and easier than they will right out of the box:

Take the side opposite the handle off and remove the bearing. Then remove the spool and take off the cast control knob off and remove the bearing from under it. Put the bearings in lighter fluid for a few minutes and swirl them around, remove them, dry them off, and then reinstall them and oil them. The bearings are packed with grease from the factory, and they will turn much better after cleaning. Put the bearing on the point of a pencil before you clean it and spin it. Then repeat after you clean it and you will see a huge difference. This is the first thing I do when I get a new reel and it makes a big difference.
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Old 01-04-09, 11:00 PM   #2
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And please don't grease your line pawl assembly.I know they tell you to in the reel manuals but use oil instead.What happens is the grease will hold the pawl upwards when riding in the worm gear grooves and the pawl guides will wear out quicker. Clean the assembly using simple green and a rinse and dry and re-assemble the reel.Then put a drop of oil on each side of the worm gear and a drop on the line pawl .I like to use Abu Garcia silicote oil for the line pawl assembly.Its heavier based oil.I like the Ardent reel butter oil for the bearings. P N J
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Old 01-04-09, 11:18 PM   #3
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Rebbasser and pig n jig are dead on. I've done seasonal maintenance on reels that are only 6-months old, and after cleaning the bearings with lighter fluid and applying 1-drop of oil, they generally cast better than the day you bought it.

Pig n jig is right about oiling the worm gear (aka. line pawl gear). Even though you hear the saying, "grease the gears and oil the bearings", this is the one gear you don't want to grease. Use oil instead, as pig n jig explains.

I will add a word of caution to those anglers not intimately aware of reel maintenance. Generally speaking, the anti-reverse roller bearings are a completely DRY assembly. If you get any oil in those roller bearings, you can easily render your reel useless. Any standard round racetrack bearings (the normal ones) can be cleaned and oiled... but stay away from your roller bearings. These are found under the drag assembly in the side plate usually.
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Old 01-04-09, 11:22 PM   #4
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Kevin, I think you should do a video on proper reel maintenance and cleaning. I think it would help a lot of people (including me).

Can you use comething besides lighter fluid for cleaning the bearings?

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Old 01-04-09, 11:50 PM   #5
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You can use acetone instead of lighter fluid. Both liquids are great cleaners that evaporate in an instant and leave no residue. I just use a small plastic cup to swish the bearings around in for a good cleaning. I've only used Ronson lighter fluid for my bearing cleans. It's cheap and the no-spill, low dosage tip is perfect.
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Old 01-05-09, 12:56 AM   #6
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Kevin, great minds think alike. I use the same stuff to clean my bearings.
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Old 01-06-09, 06:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin View Post
Rebbasser and pig n jig are dead on. I've done seasonal maintenance on reels that are only 6-months old, and after cleaning the bearings with lighter fluid and applying 1-drop of oil, they generally cast better than the day you bought it.

Pig n jig is right about oiling the worm gear (aka. line pawl gear). Even though you hear the saying, "grease the gears and oil the bearings", this is the one gear you don't want to grease. Use oil instead, as pig n jig explains.

I will add a word of caution to those anglers not intimately aware of reel maintenance. Generally speaking, the anti-reverse roller bearings are a completely DRY assembly. If you get any oil in those roller bearings, you can easily render your reel useless. Any standard round racetrack bearings (the normal ones) can be cleaned and oiled... but stay away from your roller bearings. These are found under the drag assembly in the side plate usually.
looks like I've been guilty of using grease on all of my pawl gears assemblies. I'll try oiling them instead when I start my winter cleaning and tune-ups. I'm still trying to picture how 3 drops of oil will keep that assembly lubricated. A small amount of lite grease still seems a better alternative.
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Old 01-06-09, 07:16 PM   #8
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looks like I've been guilty of using grease on all of my pawl gears assemblies. I'll try oiling them instead when I start my winter cleaning and tune-ups. I'm still trying to picture how 3 drops of oil will keep that assembly lubricated. A small amount of lite grease still seems a better alternative.
From what I understand, because the worm gear does not have interlocking teeth, but rather grooves that the metal pawl slides through, grease can actually restrict smooth sliding of the pawl if the worm gear gets dirty. Because of the nature of the worm gear, it's going to get dirty. Thus, a greased worm gear will begin building debris in those grooves the pawl slides in and disrupt the steady movement of the pawl.

When the pawl is constantly dragged over and through dirt, it can wear in the middle and cause your level wind to "stick" on one side when reeling it in. This is what causes line to be unevenly laid down on the spool. It's actually the pawl jumping the grooves in the worm gear.

Since oils can actually bond to the surface of the metal worm gear, it can help lubricate those grooves enough to provide smooth and steady operation. Grease will just muck it up.
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Old 01-06-09, 07:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
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From what I understand, because the worm gear does not have interlocking teeth, but rather grooves that the metal pawl slides through, grease can actually restrict smooth sliding of the pawl if the worm gear gets dirty. Because of the nature of the worm gear, it's going to get dirty. Thus, a greased worm gear will begin building debris in those grooves the pawl slides in and disrupt the steady movement of the pawl.

When the pawl is constantly dragged over and through dirt, it can wear in the middle and cause your level wind to "stick" on one side when reeling it in. This is what causes line to be unevenly laid down on the spool. It's actually the pawl jumping the grooves in the worm gear.

Since oils can actually bond to the surface of the metal worm gear, it can help lubricate those grooves enough to provide smooth and steady operation. Grease will just muck it up.
Kevin, thanks for the excellent explanation. It actually makes sense to me. Hopefully I haven't done too much damage to the Pawl assemblies on my biatcasters.
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Old 01-06-09, 07:27 PM   #10
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Kevin, thanks for the excellent explanation. It actually makes sense to me. Hopefully I haven't done too much damage to the Pawl assemblies on my biatcasters.
No problem Joel. I highly doubt you've done any damage. Even if you have, it's about the easiest and least expensive fix you can make on a baitcaster.
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Old 01-06-09, 07:36 PM   #11
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Okay...I just want to say curse you all for this tip. If you (like me) tried it on a reel that you have had for a little bit and then went fishing with it, you will find that you need to adjust your aiming/force required to cast to a spot.....
At my pond, there is a downed tree that I fished near. From my fishing spot on a big cast, I could land about 5 foot in front of it.
Today I put my crank over the tree and power lines running above it.

Once again...I blame Reb, PNG, and Kevin for this!
That is much easier than accepting responsibility for my own actions....LOL
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Old 01-06-09, 10:11 PM   #12
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"Kevin, I think you should do a video on proper reel maintenance and cleaning. I think it would help a lot of people (including me)."

I second that request. I know it would help me the not-so-mechanically-inclined people like myself.
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Old 01-07-09, 12:32 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by cassidyta View Post
Okay...I just want to say curse you all for this tip. If you (like me) tried it on a reel that you have had for a little bit and then went fishing with it, you will find that you need to adjust your aiming/force required to cast to a spot.....
At my pond, there is a downed tree that I fished near. From my fishing spot on a big cast, I could land about 5 foot in front of it.
Today I put my crank over the tree and power lines running above it.

Once again...I blame Reb, PNG, and Kevin for this!
That is much easier than accepting responsibility for my own actions....LOL
Cass, I've done the power line thing, too! Glad to help!
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Old 01-07-09, 06:12 AM   #14
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I am more aware of powerlines when two handed casting for maximum ditances. Heck I still have trouble with a practice plug & powerlines in the front yard. P N J
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Old 01-07-09, 06:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin View Post
From what I understand, because the worm gear does not have interlocking teeth, but rather grooves that the metal pawl slides through, grease can actually restrict smooth sliding of the pawl if the worm gear gets dirty. Because of the nature of the worm gear, it's going to get dirty. Thus, a greased worm gear will begin building debris in those grooves the pawl slides in and disrupt the steady movement of the pawl.

When the pawl is constantly dragged over and through dirt, it can wear in the middle and cause your level wind to "stick" on one side when reeling it in. This is what causes line to be unevenly laid down on the spool. It's actually the pawl jumping the grooves in the worm gear.

Since oils can actually bond to the surface of the metal worm gear, it can help lubricate those grooves enough to provide smooth and steady operation. Grease will just muck it up.
Excellent explaination. Joel that is the reasons why I posted the grease in the worm gear thingy.I was not very good at explaining things while typing from a keyboard. P N J
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Old 01-07-09, 12:11 PM   #16
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Default cleaner/lube/total protection...crazy but it works great

Rain-X. The stuff for your windshield. I pretty much soak the entire reel in the stuff. I've been using it on one of my Curado's for 3 years now as a test before I completly give up on other methods on all of my reels (11 Shimanos). Apparently there's some type of very light wax dissolved in what I believe is alcohol. This reel has been the most consistant, trouble free, longest casting, perfect drag, dirt resistant, water resistant one of the bunch.
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Old 01-07-09, 06:25 PM   #17
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Excellent explaination. Joel that is the reasons why I posted the grease in the worm gear thingy.I was not very good at explaining things while typing from a keyboard. P N J
I actually understood what you were referring to. My problem was that I stuck to the golden rule of oil bearings, grease gears.
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Old 01-07-09, 09:32 PM   #18
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I was looking through the owner's guide of my new Revo (after I found the english section) And the only thing it says so grease is the gears. While the instructions on my daiwa (and my dad's) were a lot less specific, the Abu guide had a picture with arrows pointing to the places to grease and to oil. Very cool and helpful.

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Old 01-07-09, 09:52 PM   #19
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I actually understood what you were referring to. My problem was that I stuck to the golden rule of oil bearings, grease gears.
Paradigm paralysis ? P N J
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Old 01-07-09, 11:32 PM   #20
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I think they come from factory with grease cause they know some of use want take the time to do the up keep and grease last longer....MY 09 pledge take better care of reels with OIL

Thanks for the heads up guys and the push to do whats right

Later Will
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Old 01-07-09, 11:40 PM   #21
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kevin... i too would LOVE to see a video of proper maintence. too late to make one?
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