03-23-10, 04:26 PM | #1 |
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Baitcaster BirdsNest Here how to stop
I recently learned a great tip and would like to share it will you guys. What you do is you cast the line out. then hand line about 10-15 yards of extra line then take a piece of electric tape an start at the back. about 2 1/2 inches and lay it over the spool make sure the line is centered on the spool. Place the tape and start reeling the line that you pulled out will start to cover the tape. It cast great. Best of all if you do get a birdnest it will on go back to were the tape was placed so you dont have to spend 20 mins trying to get it out. It works great ill post some pixs in a bit of what it looks like when done
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03-23-10, 06:07 PM | #2 |
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Yup! Good tip! I do it every time I spool new line (I also put a backing on), I'll get a bad back, lash that would normally be twice as bad, but with the backing, it's half as bad as it would be other wise! That with Kevin's backlash tip, bad back lashes are almost a thing of the past!
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03-23-10, 09:17 PM | #3 |
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Yeah I started this not to long ago and love it.
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03-23-10, 09:25 PM | #4 |
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I avoid backlashes altogether....
I don't use baitcasters (I prefer and use mostly spinning reels) |
03-24-10, 07:56 AM | #5 |
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Thanks for the tip. I will have to try that out.
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03-24-10, 07:58 AM | #6 |
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Same thing works with spinning reels. You'll get line twist that are not deep at all if you use the tape method as well!
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03-24-10, 09:59 AM | #7 |
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I have never experienced that with spinning reels... I have heard of it a few times but never experienced it...
The real reason behind backlashes on spinning reels is crap/cheap line. Using quality fishing line with low memory will prevent backlashes better than anything else. |
03-24-10, 10:52 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
The #2 reason is reeling in at the same time as the drag is going out. i.e. fighting a fish with the reel instead of using the rod. I don't believe that cheap line (unless we're talking real cheap Walmart line) has much to do with it. My girls both use spinning rods only, and all I ever put on there spools is Stren Original #6. |
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03-24-10, 01:44 PM | #9 |
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Baitcasters aren't ready to fish right out of the box.
They must be tuned first. There are two controls. The first is near the crank. It's normally a knurled knob. By tightening the knob you put pressure on the end of the spool axle. This friction slows the spool at the end of the cast so that when the bait hits the water, the spool stops. The most common way to adjust this friction is to start with it so tight the spool doesn't turn when released. You then back it off until the weight of the lure pulls the bait down to the water and the spool stops. In time, you will most likely loosen this off completely and use your thumb to stop the spool. The second control is to prevent the spool from out accelerating the speed at which the line is being taken out by the bait. A backlash from the start of the cast will stop the lure in mid air. If, when you cast, you see or hear loose line flopping and lapping, at the reel frame, you need to tighten this control. If when you're casting, there is no backlash, but the bait seems to run out of steam and falls to the water, you have this brake too tight. This control might be a magnetic brake or a centrifugal one. In either case the brake works at the start of the cast, not at the end. Generally, once this brake has been adjusted to suit the rod you are using, you will only have to re-adjust it under extreme conditions...Like casting into a strong wind. In the last couple of years I have taught a 5 and an 8 year old to use a baitcasting outfit in just a few minutes. The secret was to start with a well tuned reel, then tighten the friction brakes slightly, so they didn't have to thumb the spool. Common problems that can cause backlashes are, too much or too little line on the spool and oil or grease on the brake drum. One of the best things you can do for your casting reel is to send it to Kevin at Professional Reel Service in Wichita KS. I have had six reels Pro-Tuned there and they never worked better. Garry2R's |
03-24-10, 03:27 PM | #10 |
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I realize this thread was about a trick for lessening the severity of backlashed when they occur, but Garry, for the most part, has briefly outlined how to set up a baitcaster, but there are some things I feel need correcting.
First of all, the "friction brake" that you refer to is the Spool Tension. And this puts constant friction on the spool, not just at the end of the cast. Your spool tension should NEVER be loosened all the way. Also, like Garry said, a good test for proper spool tension is to let the lure free fall. when it hits the ground or boat deck (doesn't work as well on water) it should come to rest with no line overrun at all. Another good method is go hold the rod at a 45 degree angle to the ground and let the lure free fall. It should take about 5 seconds (1 1000, 2 1000, 3 1000, etc.) to hit the ground or it should not start falling until you give the rod tip a little shake. Your spool tension should be adjusted every time you change lure sizes. Next, magnetic and centrifugal brakes work differently and effect the spool at different times in the cast. Centrifugal brakes work during the beginning of a cast to, like Garry said, keep the spool from letting line out faster than the lure is pulling it. This is good, but centrifugal brakes don't do much for you at the end of a cast, and this is were good thumb control comes in. Magnetic brakes, on the other hand, generally act during the end of the cast. This keeps you reel from backlashes as your lure hits the water. Magnetic brakes don't however control overrun during the beginning of a cast as well as centrifugal brakes do. This normally isn't changed once you get it dialed in (until you get better and want to reduce the brakes or in extreme conditions like Garry said). If they both acted during the beginning of the cast, dual brakes on reels like the 2010 Revo STX and the Plfueger and Johnny Morris reels would be pointless. If you've got a reel with dual brakes or two reels with each kind of brake, try this next time you're on the water. Adjust your brakes to about 50% or so (enough to keep from getting a backlash, but you want it to overrun a little) and make a cast without using your thumb. with centrifugal brakes and you'll notice it overruns when the lures touches the water. With magnetic brakes, you'll notice a little bit of overrun in the beginning of the cast (which is usually minor enough that it gets pulled out during the rest of the cast) and it doesn't overrun at the end of a cast like centrifugal brakes are apt to do. BB
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03-25-10, 12:43 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
My apologies... my comment was tongue in cheek... more or less a joke... I will try to remember a smiley or disclaimer next time... |
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03-25-10, 09:20 AM | #12 |
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What a great thread, I have been trying and trying to cast a baitcaster. Have had some good casts but mostly bad ones. I will be out back and practice some more and will be using all this information. I think that what makes this sport so good is the large amount information that you are willing to part with. I appreciate all of you, thanks
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03-25-10, 03:07 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
BB
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03-25-10, 03:45 PM | #14 |
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Big Bassin..... Good read I was wondering why on my two new reels one would only backlash if I missed or forgot to thumb it right before it hit the water and the other would backlash mid cast (one being centrifugal and one magnetic).. Now I know how to fix that problem.
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03-25-10, 07:30 PM | #15 |
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Thanks for the tip!
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03-25-10, 09:50 PM | #16 |
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Heard that one before! If the tape will stay it works.
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03-25-10, 10:46 PM | #17 |
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Obviously a magnet works all the time, where as the pins of a centrifugal brake stop working as the spool slows down.
However, there is no practical difference between the magnetic and the centrifugal brakes. They are both designed to control the sudden acceleration of the spool at the beginning of the cast. As far as the tension knob goes, if you want to leave some friction /spool tension turned on, your welcome to do it. It will take a few feet off your cast, because it's like someone dragging their feet. Tightening the knob pushes a piece of copper or bronze plate against the end of the reel spool axle...Nothing more, nothing less. This friction is meant to stop the spool from spinning freely on it's bearings, at the end of the cast. If you can thumb the spool, turn it off, you don't need it! If you leave it turned on, in a short time the hard steel of the axle will cause the soft metal of the copper or bronze plate to dent and to flow away from the pressure. This will reduce the friction to zero or almost zero. Garry2rs |
03-26-10, 02:45 AM | #18 |
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A simple little tip and everyone goes crazy LOL!!!!!!
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03-26-10, 09:46 AM | #19 |
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lol, that happens from time to time.
BB
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03-30-10, 12:57 AM | #20 |
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Great tip! I have asked a few pros about this and they are not immune to the problem!
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03-30-10, 01:12 AM | #21 |
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Believe it or not I think it makes the reel cast smoother I have it like that on my kVd tour and it seems smoother. However it could also be the fact that i have confidence that if I do get a nest I wont be picking at it for 20mins stops right were you put the tape. I can cast about 45-50 yards so I leave about 65yards before i put the tape. Seems to be working fine.
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04-13-10, 04:42 PM | #22 |
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My tip for preventing backlast is not to hang a bush or your fishing partner at the beginning of your cast!
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04-13-10, 05:07 PM | #23 |
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Okay....I'll do my usual thing and piss everyone off now.
I have looked over my spinning reels many times and I can find zero reason to think that not closing the bail with your hand would contribute to line twist. It might cause some wind knots, but no twist. The bail revolves around the same axis that the line winds, and as such, it simply isn't capable of twisting the line. An old wive's tale that's been repeated so often, it passes as fact these days. That said, it's still a good idea to use your hand. It saves wear and tear on the springs and the reel drive train in general.
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04-13-10, 07:20 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
There is a reason I'm Bcklash, I don't get them-------I just practice getting them out.
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04-14-10, 12:10 PM | #25 |
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Strike King...The reason your reel feels smoother is because the tape is keeping what would otherwise be loose line, on the spool, from crashing around at the beginning of your cast.
This is a quite literally a Bandaid! The cure is to adjust the brakes properly. Garry2rs |
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