V-hull alterations

pignjig · 07-03-08, 10:17 PM

I may be getting a 14 ft. aluminum V-hull and trailer for next to nothing. It would be a great boat for a local reservoir with a 9.9 hp limit.. I don't want to pimp it out, but I would like to put in a plywood floor and a few other "amenities". Will putting in a floor work or will it just be a waste of time?

I know this is a pretty boring question but I thank you all for any input you might have!

-Pig

Buzz Wing · 07-03-08, 11:29 PM

When you say floor, do you mean for the whole boat, or just as a casting deck up front? If it's just the front, I can help you out, we did it all to our 14' aluminum this winter.

Here's a site if you wanna look into flooring the whole rig:

http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_in...ect/index.html

stevomac59 · 07-04-08, 12:19 AM

I wanted to do this with my uncles boat, but he stored it away before I had the chance to do it...
This is what I was going to do:
I was going to buy some polymer paint that will create a rubber based adhesive on the floor of the boat for grip and style

it is lightweight and relatively inexpensive.

here's a link, if its what your lookin' for:
http://www.nextag.com/rubber-adhesive/search-html

-stevo

pignjig · 07-05-08, 01:25 PM

Buzz- as soon as I posted I remembered reading about your work last winter- should have PM'd you. I'd like to floor the whole thing so that I can bring my ol' Pop with me and he can stand up and what not.

Thanks.

1FASTLASER · 07-07-08, 05:45 AM

PIGNJIG
I have done several aluminun rigs beforeso I kinda am well adversed in this subject. One thing you HAVE to be careful with in putting floors or decks in aluminums is getting above center of gravity ESPECIALLY in a true V bottom. Get the floor or deck to high and you have a perfect recipe for getting wet sooner or later. Makes the boat roll to one side or the other real easy. If ya do floor it keep it very light and low. My suggestion is 1/4 plywood treated with a good coat of inexpensive fiberglass resin on BOTH sides. This keeps the weight down and makes it last just about forever. Easy to do. Cost is inexpensive as well. Poly resin is available for 25 a gal. and a sheet of ply will cost about the same. When attaching the floor to the boat make sure you measure several times and get the holes drilled for the self tapping screws in the horizontal ribs. Takes about 2 days for a nice job. Only reason 2 days is it gives the ply time to soak up the resin. Mix the resin with a slower cure rate and roll it on one side. Let dry,turn over and do the other side.

pignjig · 07-07-08, 10:23 PM

Thanks, laser. The gravity thing was my main concern. Pig's don't like to swim and 65 year old Pigs' fathers don't swim too well, either. I'm hoping to hear about that boat soon...if you're interested, I'll let you know how the project goes.

Thanks, again.

-Pig

bassinbob · 07-08-08, 03:18 PM

Laser not to sound stupid but how do you determine the center of gravity? For instance are the seats in most v's above or below the center? I'd like to do the same to my boat. I can swim but prefer not to while I am fishing.

WTL · 07-08-08, 10:19 PM

When I redo my boat I think I'm gonna do what lazer suggested. The other option is aluminum, but man that is getting expensive.

Right now I have 3/4 for most of my decks and it is awfuly heavy. I dont mind it too much since I kept the decks low, but it still costs some draft inches and prolly a little speed. I thiink I'm also gonna go with a ruberrized no skid surface instead of carpet. I learned in florida that sand and carpet are like magnets to each other. I felt like my deck was a beach by the end of the trip.

I'll assume with the fiberglassing job Lazer uses some clothe.

1FASTLASER · 07-09-08, 05:12 AM

BassinBob seats are at or below that line as you thought but they are close enough to that line that if a deck is put at seat level in a true v that places a person sitting while fishing even higher when in the seat, stand up and you are really above that line. See what I am getting at.

WTL
Actually no you dont have to use cloth bud.The resin when its mixed at a slow cure rate and allowed to soak into the ply actually increases the ply's strength. Bow I am not saying dont use cloth but after soaking both sides of the 1/4 ply with resin your at about $50 for that sheet. Add glass to the recepie and now your at or over $100 plus heavy as hell. That resin soaked wood will last approx 5 years if the boat is kept covered......no telling how long if kept inside

WTL · 07-10-08, 07:20 AM

Cool.

If I were to do all that and then wanted to coat the resin with a non skid surface that could be washed off easy, like a flats boat, any idea what you would use?

1FASTLASER · 07-11-08, 05:32 AM

So,e ttype of bedliner material is what I would suggest. I forget which one you can actual;ly have tinted or comes in colors. You dont really want black because of the heat in the summer factor. But I will add this....................soaking both sides in resin and putting a bedliner material on the floor.............I would be willing to bet that floor whould last damn near forever.

07-03-08, 10:17 PM	#1
pignjig BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 499	V-hull alterations I may be getting a 14 ft. aluminum V-hull and trailer for next to nothing. It would be a great boat for a local reservoir with a 9.9 hp limit.. I don't want to pimp it out, but I would like to put in a plywood floor and a few other "amenities". Will putting in a floor work or will it just be a waste of time? I know this is a pretty boring question but I thank you all for any input you might have! -Pig

07-04-08, 12:19 AM	#3
stevomac59 BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Laredo, TX Posts: 455	I wanted to do this with my uncles boat, but he stored it away before I had the chance to do it... This is what I was going to do: I was going to buy some polymer paint that will create a rubber based adhesive on the floor of the boat for grip and style it is lightweight and relatively inexpensive. here's a link, if its what your lookin' for: http://www.nextag.com/rubber-adhesive/search-html -stevo __________________ stevomac59 Always strapped...with a rod

07-07-08, 05:45 AM	#5
1FASTLASER BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: crossett,arkansas Posts: 2,777	PIGNJIG I have done several aluminun rigs beforeso I kinda am well adversed in this subject. One thing you HAVE to be careful with in putting floors or decks in aluminums is getting above center of gravity ESPECIALLY in a true V bottom. Get the floor or deck to high and you have a perfect recipe for getting wet sooner or later. Makes the boat roll to one side or the other real easy. If ya do floor it keep it very light and low. My suggestion is 1/4 plywood treated with a good coat of inexpensive fiberglass resin on BOTH sides. This keeps the weight down and makes it last just about forever. Easy to do. Cost is inexpensive as well. Poly resin is available for 25 a gal. and a sheet of ply will cost about the same. When attaching the floor to the boat make sure you measure several times and get the holes drilled for the self tapping screws in the horizontal ribs. Takes about 2 days for a nice job. Only reason 2 days is it gives the ply time to soak up the resin. Mix the resin with a slower cure rate and roll it on one side. Let dry,turn over and do the other side. __________________ Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!!

07-08-08, 03:18 PM	#7
bassinbob BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Pitts. Pa. Posts: 3,801	Laser not to sound stupid but how do you determine the center of gravity? For instance are the seats in most v's above or below the center? I'd like to do the same to my boat. I can swim but prefer not to while I am fishing. __________________ you can have my fishin rod when ya take it from my cold dead hands

07-08-08, 10:19 PM	#8
WTL BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Huntsville, Al Posts: 7,466	When I redo my boat I think I'm gonna do what lazer suggested. The other option is aluminum, but man that is getting expensive. Right now I have 3/4 for most of my decks and it is awfuly heavy. I dont mind it too much since I kept the decks low, but it still costs some draft inches and prolly a little speed. I thiink I'm also gonna go with a ruberrized no skid surface instead of carpet. I learned in florida that sand and carpet are like magnets to each other. I felt like my deck was a beach by the end of the trip. I'll assume with the fiberglassing job Lazer uses some clothe. __________________ Selling live waterdogs for less since 2005.

07-03-08, 11:29 PM	#2
Buzz Wing BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Hudson, MI Posts: 1,219	When you say floor, do you mean for the whole boat, or just as a casting deck up front? If it's just the front, I can help you out, we did it all to our 14' aluminum this winter. Here's a site if you wanna look into flooring the whole rig: http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_in...ect/index.html

07-05-08, 01:25 PM	#4
pignjig BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 499	Buzz- as soon as I posted I remembered reading about your work last winter- should have PM'd you. I'd like to floor the whole thing so that I can bring my ol' Pop with me and he can stand up and what not. Thanks.

07-07-08, 10:23 PM	#6
pignjig BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 499	Thanks, laser. The gravity thing was my main concern. Pig's don't like to swim and 65 year old Pigs' fathers don't swim too well, either. I'm hoping to hear about that boat soon...if you're interested, I'll let you know how the project goes. Thanks, again. -Pig

07-09-08, 05:12 AM	#9
1FASTLASER BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: crossett,arkansas Posts: 2,777	BassinBob seats are at or below that line as you thought but they are close enough to that line that if a deck is put at seat level in a true v that places a person sitting while fishing even higher when in the seat, stand up and you are really above that line. See what I am getting at. WTL Actually no you dont have to use cloth bud.The resin when its mixed at a slow cure rate and allowed to soak into the ply actually increases the ply's strength. Bow I am not saying dont use cloth but after soaking both sides of the 1/4 ply with resin your at about $50 for that sheet. Add glass to the recepie and now your at or over $100 plus heavy as hell. That resin soaked wood will last approx 5 years if the boat is kept covered......no telling how long if kept inside __________________ Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!!

07-10-08, 07:20 AM	#10
WTL BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Huntsville, Al Posts: 7,466	Cool. If I were to do all that and then wanted to coat the resin with a non skid surface that could be washed off easy, like a flats boat, any idea what you would use? __________________ Selling live waterdogs for less since 2005.

07-11-08, 05:32 AM	#11
1FASTLASER BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: crossett,arkansas Posts: 2,777	So,e ttype of bedliner material is what I would suggest. I forget which one you can actual;ly have tinted or comes in colors. You dont really want black because of the heat in the summer factor. But I will add this....................soaking both sides in resin and putting a bedliner material on the floor.............I would be willing to bet that floor whould last damn near forever. __________________ Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!!

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