01-12-12, 11:15 AM | #1 |
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Rod Length
I grew up fishing relatively short rods - 6 ft and even a 5-1/2 foot rod. Maybe this was due to the fact I was young and a shorter rod was more manageable for a kid. Maybe it was because I fished from a river bank and often was contending with tree limbs overhanging the water. Not only was a shorter rod less likely to get hung up in a tree while trying to wade around it, a shorter rod was useful for pitching underhand or side-arm when standing knee-deep in water.
Now that most of my fishing is done from a boat, I tend to like a 7 foot rod. With a longer rod there's a little extra casting distance: whether pitching, flipping or traditional casting. Longer rods also offer more line control when fighting a fish: to either steer a fish or give the fish some extra line by lowering the rod tip. There is also more rod to take up slack line when presenting a bait or setting a hook. There seems to be a lot of advantages for a longer rod, but I can't think of many advantages for a shorter rod. Do you find that you have a preference for a certain length rod, regardless of lure or presentations? ...Or do you like different length rods for different situations. |
01-12-12, 11:19 AM | #2 |
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Different length for different things. I like a little shorter rod for spinnerbaits, usually a 6'6". I'm more accurate at close range with that rod versus a 7'. Also, my Spook rod is 6', because I can get a better walk-the-dog cadence with it than a longer rod.
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01-12-12, 11:36 AM | #3 |
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All of the rods I use on a regular basis are 7' to 7'8".
My cranking rods are 7' and 7'6" and I can bomb cranks on the 7'6" glass rod. My main spinnerbait rod is 7'3" as most of my spinnerbait fishing is done long range. My worm rod(s) vary from 7' to 7'3" or 7'4". My jig rod is 7'8" but will also use a 7' rod for pitching/flipping. I use a 7'6" rod for swimjigs and small swimbaits. All of the above are casting rods. My spinning rods are closer to 7'. 7'2" for dropshotting and 7' for general purpose. BB
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01-12-12, 11:46 AM | #4 |
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In general, a shorter rod improves accuracy and length increases casting distance. My spinnerbait rod is custom built on a 6' blank with a 6" grip. This works well for roll casting to targets. Other tip-down presentations may be more comfortable on a shorter rod depending on the users stature. Some prefer a 6'9" or so rod for vertical drop shotting using the graph. The shorter length helps keep the bait in the cone of the sonar.
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01-12-12, 12:35 PM | #5 |
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Shorter rods give you good accurate casts, and like you said, they're good for close corners casting. They're also good for rod-down presentations, where you twitch the bait, like rip-baits and top waters.
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01-13-12, 11:48 AM | #6 |
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As many of you know, I'm currently shorefishing and we previously discussed the challenge of toting multiply rods through woods and steeper banks along with all the other essentials. Hench, I came up with an idea (partially from this thread). Ice fishing rods. Problem. most all 'Ice Fishing' rods really don't have any real backbone. Right length, wrong power.
Than while scratching an itch , I ran accross this; http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shop...10201839/60486 What do you think? Right power, right action, graphite, guides look reasonable. Seems perfect for tossing jigs under limbs (finesse on up). Should be good for plastics and even a jerk bait or crank. (If the surrounding bushes and trees make normal casting difficult) Last but not least, Rod Builders, do any of you GREAT ARTISTS have access to smaller similar size blanks, maybe can build something I can use as well as be PROUD to showoff. Is the length so short that stepping up blank quality may not be very cost effective. (no real increase in sensitivity) Maybe the guides are a better place to spend extra? Now I don't think I need a $100-$200 3 foot pole but I would really entertain a custom build. So what do you think? I know at that price it's cheaper than loosing a single crank or a couple of jigs to the trees and bushes but am I just wasting my time? Probably pair it with a Quantum Tour 10 reel, 6-8 lb line (maybe 15lb invisi-braid) Anyone who may have an interest in discussing this feel free to PM me.
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01-13-12, 12:33 PM | #7 |
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I personally think that rod is way too short to offer any kind of real power if needed. Usually in pitching jigs, frogs you are generally going to have the bait hit on the fall spring/summer and it will either be hit so lightly you can't tell you have a bite or its gonna get nailed. Most use at least a 7' to 7'6 for a pitching/frog rod with lots of backbone. You might could use it for a shallow crankbait but why? I can easily take a 6'6 rod and place most baits where I want. Learning to throw both handed left & right is very advantageous especially depending on which side or end of the boat you may be fishing on. Underhand throwing will help in low hanging limbs and learning to skip a bait works very well also.
I use mostly 6'6 to 7'4 rods. Just like Mike pointed out, shorter for accuracy and longer for distance. I also have a 6'4 rod just for topwater "walking the dog" baits so the tip doesn't hit the water. Also a longer rod for deep running crankbaits give your bait more distance to try to get to their proper diving depth.
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01-13-12, 12:46 PM | #8 |
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Short rods can offer a more compact power pkg,made this rod over 20 years ago,from an old fiberglass rod with a plastic grip,still available at yard sales real cheap.Sawed a decent handle off a broken rod,set in in place using the epoxy found at atuo parts stores and or wal mart saying can be used underwater,placed between two chairs and threadwrapped,painted puke green so wouldnt be stolen.
Designed to toss crankbaits along barges parked on the ohio river,short pitch underhand and could place a bait between two in the inverted v. Lil worse for wear as did it years ago but still good 50 in long and 16-17 in bass no problem.So look around can make what you want shorter means underhanded casts possible not weak,depends upon how one makes it. Also done in a roberts wrap or spiral wrap,was never anything great to look at just great to use |
01-13-12, 05:41 PM | #9 |
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I am still old school. 6-6" and under for me. Most everything I use regularly is either 6' or 6.5'. I still have a few 5'-6" rods but I rarely pull them out except the ultralights.
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01-13-12, 08:33 PM | #10 |
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It all depends on what I am doing. I have 7 foot rods for crankbait fishing. A 7'3" frog rod, and a 7 foot rod for jigs and another for pitchin jigs and t-rigged plastics into heavy cover. My spinnerbaits, jerk baits, topwaters, chatterbaits, and a few others are fished with a 6'6" length rod. I have a couple shorter 6'0" rods that I take with me when fishing from shore in areas I know I will be contending with a lot of overhanging branches.
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01-14-12, 12:44 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
There is a reason that rods are the length they are. Rods between 6 and 7 feet are adequate for casting, feeling and playing a fish. If you really want to go with a short rod I think a 6 ft rod would work for most situations. If you really wanted to go to an extreme, if you can find one, a 5'6" or 5'8" rod would be as short as I would go. |
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01-14-12, 01:01 AM | #12 | |
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01-15-12, 12:25 AM | #13 |
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I saw a dude last year fish a trout river I was on with a 2 foot rod of some sort, that looked like it had an integrated spincast reel. He just sat on the bank, throwing at this little inlet stream for 15 minutes, then got in his datsun and drove away. Weird looking deal.
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01-15-12, 12:27 AM | #14 |
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01-15-12, 12:28 AM | #15 |
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sounds like the world famous Popeil Pocket fisherman..............but wait if you order in the next 15 min we'll send you a second one free....just pay additional S&H
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01-15-12, 12:29 AM | #16 |
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Hehe, Jrob, thats probably it. What the hell. I tried not to stare, what me with my temple fork 4 wt and fedora and all. I know I am just as big a idiot.
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01-15-12, 12:32 AM | #17 |
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01-15-12, 05:00 AM | #18 | |
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Got it from my mother (God rest her soul) along with some Moto-Frogs for Christmas one year. NEVER BEEN USED, ALL IN ORIGINAL PACKAGING! They will remain in original packaging until my great great great grandkids sell them on E-BAY!
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01-16-12, 01:13 PM | #19 |
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A 3' rod would be a too short to get any casting distance at all. It would do ok for vertical jigging but that doesn't help from the shore. If you found an old beat up glass surf rod, you might be able to cut it down to 5' or so and have some power left. As stated, it's not economically feasible to do with a new blank.
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01-16-12, 01:24 PM | #20 | |
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Rock solid locks that snap shut like a shotgun!!! Man thats honestly the best one Ive seen yet! I might order the 4 pack
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01-16-12, 02:35 PM | #21 |
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Thanks for all the great input.
Just to help people out, let me add somethings. This rod will be used strictly for shorefishing in some very heavy vegitation (on the land with nurmourous lay downs) and anywhere from 1/4mile to a 3/4mile walk through the trees and vegetation to different spots. Almost 3/4 of the shore is unfishable from shore due to trees and vegatation. Or one would think, hence the small pole. I won't be as a rule really casting as much as, 'long and short flipping'. This is a very, very old former gravel pit with full growth trees along sides and steep banks (imagine a rock quarry). I've spent alot of time boat fishing so cutting down to even 3 rods took some getting used to, alone. So the terrain is difficult and actual water access, complicated. I have a 6ft Croix casting, Med/fast. a couple of 5'6'' Shakespears, Med.action spinning rods. I also have numerous shorter (along with longer) lights and ultra lights. I've caught a 24in. walleye and a 9 lb. bass along with numerous2-4 pounders out of this pond so I know it's capable of big fish. These are my basic challenges that I'm dealing with. Oh and the pond has 13 acres of water...don't know shoreline measurements, but I think you get the idea. Remember, this pole is not for all around use, rather a specific application. http://www.lake-link.com/Wisconsin-L...nty-Wisconsin/ Fish both ponds, both are past gravel pits. Thanks again!
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01-16-12, 08:34 PM | #22 |
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I use a 7' rod for most applications, but I also use a 7'6" occasionally. According to Aaron Martens, a rod starts to lose sensitivity after 7'. I don't know why, but my guess would be weight/ balance issues.
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01-25-12, 02:28 PM | #23 | |
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Do you really want to start a build with a cut blank? Due to shortness do guides become less important and reel seat more? Whats a EVA cork composite handle. And why not either or, instead of composite? Can't find explanation for composite just cork or EVA I still have no intention of self build but more pricing components to convince an experienced rod builder to put it together...hint. I understand power and action, but on such a short rod don't the two over lap? Action is usually the last 3-4 feet on traditional rod, right? The blanks are from mudhole and netcraft companies or retailers. Some are like 6 dollars for graphite blanks. There like IM6 or something, varies. Any thoughts?
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01-26-12, 11:13 AM | #24 |
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Action as decsribed Fast/Moderate/Slow is relative to the blanks length regardless of what the length is. A Fast action will flex first in the top 1/3 of the rod, a moderate in the top 1/2 and a slow is more parabolic. Power is the rods resistance to flexing which is a function of taper, materials and wall thickness.
Composite cork is just that, cork and one or more other materials pressed into shape with a bonding agent. Composites blend the attributes of the individual materials so you may end up with a grip that feels like cork for the most part but will wear better and probably cheaper. You'll want quality components in the way of a seat and guides regardless of rod length. All blanks are cut at some point at the factory, trimming a blank is no problem as long as you understand the affect it will have on power and action. Something else to think about, modern 2 piece blanks are just as sensitive and durable as single piece. A nice 6'6" travel rod can be done that will give you best of both worlds in getting to your spots and being manageable in tight quarters without sacrificing castability or fish-fighting power.
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01-30-12, 04:56 PM | #25 |
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I've got a custom built 5'10" fiberglass rod that I've posted about before that I use for two things: topwater baits primarily and if needed pitching crankbaits around docks that have slips and a roof. Benefits with this rod is that I can work a Spook or poppers snapping the rod tip straight down in front of me without hitting the water. And I can work a crankbait around docks and set the hook without fear of busting the tip off hitting the roof when I'm tight on the dock. A 7'+ rod would not work for me.
I hear a lot of pro's talk about having to have a 7'-7'11" rod and that's the only thing they'll throw......don't know if I agree. |
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