@$#&%*** ethanol

[jmartin]

What is everyone doing about this Sh!t? Making my boat motors,lawnmowers and pretty much everything else run like crap. What is the best treatment for this problem.

Thanks,

Jerry

[nofearengineer]

Um, long term...vote for someone who understands that ethanol made from corn is broke as a joke?

Short term...buy good ol' straight fossil fuel gasoline.

[Kevin]

I can't stand the stuff either. I wish they would do away with it already. The important thing to remember is to have your gas tanks be BONE DRY when you go to store your boat for the winter, to prevent separation and water absorption. This is the exact opposite thing you are supposed to do with non-ethanol fuel, where you are supposed to fill your tanks for winter storage. Ethanol is alcohol, so it will absorb moisture right through your gas tank's walls from the open air.

Many boaters (including myself) have run into some separation problems and I've even needed 25 gallons pumped out of one of my boats this spring (saltwater boat). Some boats have fuel filters that can be removed... if you remove your fuel filter and see evidence of water, it could very well be that you're fuel has separated, in which you need to have the fuel removed from your tanks. If you see some water in the fuel filter cap, dump it out and try to start the engines again, sometimes you have just trace amounts that can prevent a successful start.

Some companies make fuel treatments specifically formulated for ethanol mixtures, and you should treat what little fuel you have left in your tank before winter storage. My top-notch mechanic told me that once you have separation, those treatments won't do any good, and in fact, they'll even add to the problem.

You're not alone.

[zooker]

best thing to do is get a 10 micron water septorator..this removes the water in the ethonal..belive me it's there... it still wont run fer crap but at least you wont blow a hole in your pistons...

zooker

[WTL]

Your government in action!

Hurray!

[cakalaki_girl]

Since ya'll are talking about fuel, I wanted to share what I was just thinking about. I started driving when I was 18, and I just turned 26. When I got my lisence I was driving a VAN (my Mom gave me her old P.O.S). It took 12 dollars to fill it up. Now I have a Pontiac G6 and I usually stop pumping before it's full at 40 dollars. My husband and I were joking that we wish it was a time machine like in back to the future. We could go to 1950 and fill up.

[bcklash]

Originally Posted by cakalaki_girl

Since ya'll are talking about fuel, I wanted to share what I was just thinking about. I started driving when I was 18, and I just turned 26. When I got my lisence I was driving a VAN (my Mom gave me her old P.O.S). It took 12 dollars to fill it up. Now I have a Pontiac G6 and I usually stop pumping before it's full at 40 dollars. My husband and I were joking that we wish it was a time machine like in back to the future. We could go to 1950 and fill up.

I remember 19 cents a gallon

[bassboogieman]

best thing to do is get a 10 micron water septorator..this removes the water in the ethonal..belive me it's there... it still wont run fer crap but at least you wont blow a hole in your pistons...

SPOT ON! Best insurance for your outboard. Sta-bil also makes a marine grade stabilizer (the blue one) specially formulated for ethanol blend gasoline. It's twice the price of the pink stuff, but another bit of insurance. Non-ethanol gas is extremely rare in my neck of the woods, and may not be available in other areas I travel to so I use both the 10 micron filter and Sta-bil in addition to ring free in the gas. With the additives, 2-stroke oil, etc. $3/gal gas is more like $4/gal fuel.

[bonsaibp]

I use a yamaha 10 micron filter and treat every tank with a can of seafoam, seems to work ok.

[Randy]

Maybe I am behind on all of this , but am I missing the boat when it comes to Ethynol ? I have a Johnson GT150 , should I be putting something extra in the gas when I fill up or what??????? Please advise so I don't have a major SNAFU ......

[Kevin]

Randy.. you don't need to treat the fuel with anything on regular fill-ups... at least I don't. But you SHOULD definitely treat the fuel before winter storage (or any period where the boat is not used for any length of time).

[Randy]

Thanks, Since I live in Tampa, FL my boat doesn't sit idle for more than 1 weekend, and thats only if it rains. I just heard talk about the Ethynol and thought I better find out about it.

[Kevin]

Randy... I'm not quite sure what a Floridian should do if they use their boat regularly all year. My saltwater boat doesn't leave its slip all winter, so before winter lay up, I run the tanks dry and add stabilizer/treatment.

I fish year round in my bass boat, but will still add the stabilizer/treatment to my tank when it starts getting close to freezing temps. Up here the gas can sludge up apparently... but I'm a little unsure how it reacts in warm climates like Florida, especially for boaters who are adding new fuel all the time.

[nofearengineer]

For the most part, "winterizing" should be done when the engine is going to be unused for a couple of months. It doesn't really depend on where you're at on the calendar...it just so happens that most boats sit idle during the winter, hence the term.

As far as temps go, though...Kevin is right, cold can cause fuel to do weird things, so a stabilizer might not be absolutely needed, but it's fairly cheap insurance against engine troubles.

[zooker]

hey randy
read this then do it..
e-10 is coming and will be mandtory nation wide in 5 years..

Originally Posted by zooker

best thing to do is get a 10 micron water septorator..this removes the water in the ethonal..belive me it's there... it still wont run fer crap but at least you wont blow a hole in your pistons...

zooker

[1FASTLASER]

Ok folks I have done EXTENSIVE research and testing on ethanol. Even though the station you buy at claims they dont sell it and prolly arnt aware of it but ITS THERE. Tankers are nt required to wash out before they get there next load of fuel .........so th station that ordered 500gals of ethanol crap gets there's. The next station says NO ethanol .....well the tanker goes and gets this customers 500gals of fuel but guess what............What is left in the bottom of the tank. You got it ETHANOL contaminated fuel even though at a lesser degree its in there. Treat your fuel EVERY time you refuel if you take on more fuel than you are gonna burn in the days outing. The hotter the temps are outside the faster phase seperation happens and then you here BOOM at 6000rpms and it AINT PRETTY.

[Bill M]

Use Startron fuel additive, it works great just a little at every fill up will help ya out big time.

[nofearengineer]

Originally Posted by 1FASTLASER

Treat your fuel EVERY time you refuel if you take on more fuel than you are gonna burn in the days outing.

Good point. I have actually taken to the practice of only fueling my boat to half way. Since I only bought it this spring, it's taken me a while to have some confidence in the fuel gauge, and to get a feel for how much fuel it uses. It blows me away that a 115hp outboard could only use a few gallons per day. A full tank (42 gal) would last me 5-6 fishing trips, or 2 months, conservatively. Like Laser said, that's just too long to hold fuel. Plus, any boat I'm in is gonna need extra help getting up on plane , so missing 120 lbs of unnecessary fuel's gotta be a good thing. I always use Merc's Quickleen additive too.

[North Branch]

Originally Posted by Bill M

Use Startron fuel additive, it works great just a little at every fill up will help ya out big time.

The StarTron stuff works well for me too. I use it in all my equipment.

[bassboogieman]

What I got from my mechanic concerning ethanol problem - Boats that sit in the water are more prone to fuel problems with water due to humidity. Humid periods also contribute to the water absorbtion issue. Boats that are trailered are less pone to have issues as their storage/idle time is away from the humidity associated with being left on the water.
Boats have this problem with ethanol due to their vented gas tanks, unlike car & truck gas tanks which are not vented. The vent allows humid are to enter the fuel tank, and that air can condense, forming water droplets that fall into the fuel and be absorbed by the ethanol. One remedy often suggested is keeping the boat fuel tank full, minimizing the air that can get in the tank and start the condensing/absorbtion process.
Many of us do not keep our tanks full to save weight, and fuel related expenses. My personal solution to this problem was to add a Yamaha 10 micron water filter, use Marine Stabil (blue) everytime I add gas, and Yamaha Ringfree additive. Water in the fuel can be a major problem resulting in expensive repairs. When the boat goes in to storage for the winter, the tank is full and a new filter element installed so I am ready to go the first decent day in Spring. My Yamaha 225HP is 9 years old now and running strong. I'll do every preventative thing possible to keep it that way.

[OrygunBasser]

There is plenty of controversy about whether gas fuel tanks should be empty or full at layup and you can find reasonable arguments for either condition. However, the argument for leaving them full overlooks the fact that modern gasolines go bad much too fast and six months is FAR too long. Old gas will definitely harm fuel injected MPI systems. Moreover, diesel oil is subject to bacterial blooms and oxidation as well.

Condensation developing in the tank is a much over-rated problem and here is the reason why: An empty tank contains a limited number of cubic feet of air, and therefore water vapor that could possibly condense. Air does not flow in and out through those tiny vents, plus you can always tape the vents over if that bothers you. The amount of water vapor in the tank comes to several ounces. However, if you have good Racor, Dahl or similar filters (which you should) these will easily be able to handle that amount of water. Smaller canister filters will be strained to get that much water out, but the large types like Fram cartridge filters can handle it.

What about fuel stabilizers, biocides etc.? While I'm not a petroleum chemist, I do know that these potions have a less than spectacular record of success. Personally, I'm not a believer in miracles sold in a can.

Therefore for both gas and diesel boats, it is best to arrange your fuel situation that the tanks be as empty as possible before you take the boat to the yard. Old fuel is a greater problem than a little water in the tanks.

Should tanks be completely drained for the winter? No, that isn't necessary. Besides, if you do, you'll have to refill them from 5 gallon cans in the spring which is messy, hard work and dangerous with gasoline. Leave just enough to get the engines started in spring and get to a fuel dock.
The old fuel left in the fuel lines is one of the reasons we have so much trouble getting engines started in the spring. In the spring you can bring a gallon of fresh fuel and prime the filters with it for easier starting.