01-16-06, 05:28 PM | #1 |
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Opinions wanted . . .
Last year I purchased my first baitcaster. By the end of the season, I pretty much got the hang of it. However, I am not happy with the rod that I purchased (a BPS Pro Qualifier). When I purchased my baitcasting rod, I thought I would use it for stickbaits. Turns out, I couldn't get a good hookset with the baitcaster.
Anyway, my latest revelation is that perhaps a baitcaster would be good for throwing crankbaits. I am happy with my reel (a Shimano Chronarch) but need some advice/recommendations as to what rod would work well for throwin' cranks. Any suggestions regarding brands, size (6'6 versus 7'), and Medium versus Medium/Heavy? Anyone fond of the BPS Crankin' Stick? Or do I need to drop some cash and by a Loomis? |
01-16-06, 05:35 PM | #2 |
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the pro qualifier is actually agood rod.just the one you had wasnt meant for the situation you were fishing it too.as far as cranking goes,i like 6-6
medium.try the david fritts rod,he is the by all means the crankbait god
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01-16-06, 05:45 PM | #3 |
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kh51, more questions for ya
When it comes to spinning, I prefer the MH rods and usually pair up with a 4000 reel (Stradic or Sustain). That said, should this guide my selection of a baitcasting rod (MH instead of the M). I appreciate your help.
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01-16-06, 05:46 PM | #4 |
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I'd keep the same baitcaster and rod and put more emphasis on your hookset. Make a consicious effort to point the rod tip exactly towards the bait and have the rodtip down towards the water before "crossing her eyes" with the hookset from hell.
Depending on what line you use, get to know how much stretch is there and make the appropriate adjustments to your hookset. What happens to many anglers is the excitement of the "tap" or "hit" that the fail to get the mechanics of a good hookset in... really the best way to improve your mechanics is to take a more seasoned bass fisherman with you and observe your habits, and make improvements... I thought I had it down till my first summer of tournies, boyyyyy did I learn! |
01-16-06, 05:49 PM | #5 |
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hey jb, what if you were using those ultimate luresavers things? they let go if your rod it pointing directly at the fish and you pull.
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01-16-06, 05:51 PM | #6 |
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thanks jb
I will admit that my hookset on the baitcaster could improve . . . that is one reason I think that the baitcaster may work best for me for crankin' since the fish hook themselves. Do you have any recommendations on a good rod for crankin?
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01-16-06, 05:59 PM | #7 |
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Check Out Binns Brothers Rods. Get The 7'6" Medium Lite Rod Best Crankbait Rod Ive Ever Felt.
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01-17-06, 08:46 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Lizards
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01-18-06, 12:28 AM | #9 |
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As lizards says, everyone has an opinion. I use 2: A 7' Falcon Low rider for the big cranks like a DD22, and an AllStar GT2 for small lipped baits and lipless baits. Both are composite rods-a graphite butt section with a fiberglass tip. The glass has more give to it to keep from oulling the hooks out. If you go with a medium action you should be fine.
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01-18-06, 09:12 AM | #10 |
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Rod's are somewhat speacifically designed to handle particular baits, wieghts, and methods of fishing. Not everyone can afford (speacially young persons) all the different speacialty rods. A medium rod with moderate action (IMO) is particularly good with small light crankbaits and the smaller rogues. But don't have enough oomph (on the hookset) when throwing a bigger rogue. Graphite rods tend to be better for what I call "feel baits" such as a TR worm, jig and pig, and so on. Some rods cross over fairly well between several presentation styles and baits. I don't really suggest a G-loomis crankin' rod except for the cheapest one which does well for the cranks I like to throw like killer b1's, honey b's, Rogues (but didn't throw them very well untill I modified it by breaking two inches of the tip). Since then it's been a better rod over all. Handles 1/2 oz. rattletraps like a dream. I do recomend getting rods that are 6'6". They really aid in the hook set and getting fish out and up from cover as well as allowing a lot more controll of the fish during a fight. I been building rods for 16 yrs. now I can say it pays to get a higher quality rod but even then many manufacturers don't spline the rods properly. A soft graphite rod works well with large stick and jerk baits as does a MH or Hvy. glass composite rod. What works best is really and individual preference. To this day the best rod I've ever used for a spook was a 6'6" Mh Rhino rod built back in '90 or '91. It belonged to a guy I used to fish with. So expensive isn't always the answer. I used to use nothing but ugly sticks for spinner baits and cranks. But these wiegh a ton and don't handle the light stuff very well at all. Not to mention the reel seats suck. Do some research and reading, and try other peoples equipment before you invest a lot of hard in cabbage in the high dollar rods. Talk to rod builders at local tackle shops too, they can teach you a lot about the science and physic's behind why a particular series of rods work well with particular baits. No one rod is the "right" rod for the same bait and presentation for every angler.
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01-18-06, 12:39 PM | #11 |
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I fish Loomis rods and they are sweet! You don't have to go for GLX to have an awesome rod just buy the GL2 and you're set. You pay around $130 when you buy the rod but if you ever break it you pay $50 and you get a brand new one. Now that's a deal.
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