Friends new boat pickup with a question

bbtt123 · 11-19-06, 05:38 PM

A friend of mine just picked up what seems to be an absolutely wonderful deal for $1800. Its a 91 19ft Bayliner Cobra with a 120hp force EFI. The boat was custom worked on with all new decking in the front and back, new carpet on the decks as well. Only work we can see is having to replace the floor board (easy) and just overall cleaning up the boat and wet sanding the boat to get the paint back to original. We do need to set up fish finders and hook up the bow mount trolling motor before we get on the water. Few questions though as I have never had to work on the electronics for a boat before.

First thing is the fish finders, he wants to set up two units for the boat, one bow mount and one dash mount so that we both have access to depth info in front of us while out on the water. Can we splice both units into the same sensor or will we have to run both units separately?

Second thing is the motor, we tried to get some turnover on the motor yesterday to make sure it wasn't seized, at first we got nothing but after a bit of tweaking (oiling the cylinders a bit) the motor spun freely. The bottom cylinder is showing a lack of compression compared to the other three, I know this could be a few things (rings or piston walls) but it seems to me with the motor being semi-seized (motor was never turned over for almost 2 years) I think it might be a stuck ring right now and the motor may need a decarb? What steps should we take to fix this (easiest first please) we can rebuild the motor but would rather try simplicity first.

Other than the motor the boat for $1800 is an absolute steal as far as I'm concerned. (thanks craigslist for the deals!)

Jolly · 11-19-06, 09:19 PM

No idea on the motor but on the fishfinders:

I put new fishfinders on my boat and I was told by a friend (hes a mechanic but that doesn't mean anything) that splicing them from the same transducer could hurt the one or both of the units. Most (me included) get a second transducer and put it on the bottom of the trolling motor with a stainless hose clamp around the unit (don't know the technical term - on the other end of where the prop is - lol). No real benefit as far as position but you don't have to worry about hurting one of your units. The worst part is fishing the wires through the hull - ugh!

Anyway, hope this helps - I may be wrong but it was a "just to be safe" thing I guess!

Jolly

Christopherkeene9 · 11-19-06, 09:21 PM

For the one on the dash you can run 3 different types of transducers: shoot thru, thru hull, or one thats mounted on the transom.

fishin fool · 11-20-06, 12:15 AM

DO NOT CUT OR SPLICE ANYTHING ON YOUR TRANSDUCER CABLE!!!!!!!!!!!! You should run a seperate transducer for each however there is a switching device that allows you to switch between 2 transducers for 1 unit or 1 transducer for 2 units provided the transducer is of the proper frequency for that unit. If you have to buy 2 units new they will come with transducers for each. Also when running power to your units make sure to pull power directly from the battery or from a fuse panel that has a power and ground source. Do not pull power from an instrument gauge such as a tach it will cause electrical interference and give you false readings. Keep your power cord and transducer cables seperate from any wiring harnesses because of electrical interference also.

1FASTLASER · 11-23-06, 09:36 AM

Fioshin fool has the finder issue cover. DO NOT splice anything. The interference is unbeleivable. Ok on the motor. Take a good compression reading and if possible a leak down test and I could tell you exactly what the problem is. Anyway mix up some fresh gas and put in a GOOD healthy dose of Seafoam. You can get it at a parts store. Dont be afraid to use a bunch. It wont hurt the motor. While picking up the Seafoam get a can of Deep Crank.. Get access to the front of the carbs with the plugs pulled out first and just let her rip with the deep crank. Spray the carb throats VERY VERY thouroughly. Let sit over night and do it again. Get a fresh set of plugs and install them and give her a try. 90% of the time she will go ahead and fire up.mAKE SURE YA GOT THE MUFFS ON HER WHILE DOING ALL THIS never ever SPIN OR START A MOTOR WITHOUT THE MOTOR IN WATER OR ON MUFFS. 30 SECONDS OF SPINNING THE MOTOR CAN BURN THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER. If the motor was taken care of by the first owner this may be all that you have to do. Get back to me with the compression readings and if possible the leak down test numbers. A leakdown test when you install a gauge on one cylinder at a time that will show you how well the cylinder is sealing up. It takes a hose and attachment much like a compression gauge but the gauge must be the type that will drop down on the readings so you can figure the percentage of leakdown.

Rebbasser · 12-20-06, 06:37 PM

Welcome to the forum!

Agree with the transducer-use one for each depthfinder. If you have a transom mount, the front depthfinder will be 19 feet from the transducer which won't do you a whole lot of good. I use this mount on mine-works great and keeps the transducer out of harms way:

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults

Regarding the engine, or specifically Laser's advice I think the product he is referring to is DeepCreep, not DeepCrank. It, along with Seafoam does a magnificant job cleaning the crap out of an engine. I run a can of seafoam through mine every other tank of gas or so.

Christopherkeene9 · 12-20-06, 08:36 PM

Guys I also thought of another idea! If you guys are going Lowrance, Furuno, Raymarine, Simrad, and a few others you guys can network the displays off of one transducer.

11-19-06, 05:38 PM	#1
bbtt123 BassFishin.Com Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Lansing, MI Posts: 1	Friends new boat pickup with a question A friend of mine just picked up what seems to be an absolutely wonderful deal for $1800. Its a 91 19ft Bayliner Cobra with a 120hp force EFI. The boat was custom worked on with all new decking in the front and back, new carpet on the decks as well. Only work we can see is having to replace the floor board (easy) and just overall cleaning up the boat and wet sanding the boat to get the paint back to original. We do need to set up fish finders and hook up the bow mount trolling motor before we get on the water. Few questions though as I have never had to work on the electronics for a boat before. First thing is the fish finders, he wants to set up two units for the boat, one bow mount and one dash mount so that we both have access to depth info in front of us while out on the water. Can we splice both units into the same sensor or will we have to run both units separately? Second thing is the motor, we tried to get some turnover on the motor yesterday to make sure it wasn't seized, at first we got nothing but after a bit of tweaking (oiling the cylinders a bit) the motor spun freely. The bottom cylinder is showing a lack of compression compared to the other three, I know this could be a few things (rings or piston walls) but it seems to me with the motor being semi-seized (motor was never turned over for almost 2 years) I think it might be a stuck ring right now and the motor may need a decarb? What steps should we take to fix this (easiest first please) we can rebuild the motor but would rather try simplicity first. Other than the motor the boat for $1800 is an absolute steal as far as I'm concerned. (thanks craigslist for the deals!)

11-19-06, 09:19 PM	#2
Jolly BassFishin.Com Active Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: West Texas Posts: 368	No idea on the motor but on the fishfinders: I put new fishfinders on my boat and I was told by a friend (hes a mechanic but that doesn't mean anything) that splicing them from the same transducer could hurt the one or both of the units. Most (me included) get a second transducer and put it on the bottom of the trolling motor with a stainless hose clamp around the unit (don't know the technical term - on the other end of where the prop is - lol). No real benefit as far as position but you don't have to worry about hurting one of your units. The worst part is fishing the wires through the hull - ugh! Anyway, hope this helps - I may be wrong but it was a "just to be safe" thing I guess! Jolly __________________ "Here fishy, fishy!!!"

11-23-06, 09:36 AM	#5
1FASTLASER BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: crossett,arkansas Posts: 2,777	Fioshin fool has the finder issue cover. DO NOT splice anything. The interference is unbeleivable. Ok on the motor. Take a good compression reading and if possible a leak down test and I could tell you exactly what the problem is. Anyway mix up some fresh gas and put in a GOOD healthy dose of Seafoam. You can get it at a parts store. Dont be afraid to use a bunch. It wont hurt the motor. While picking up the Seafoam get a can of Deep Crank.. Get access to the front of the carbs with the plugs pulled out first and just let her rip with the deep crank. Spray the carb throats VERY VERY thouroughly. Let sit over night and do it again. Get a fresh set of plugs and install them and give her a try. 90% of the time she will go ahead and fire up.mAKE SURE YA GOT THE MUFFS ON HER WHILE DOING ALL THIS never ever SPIN OR START A MOTOR WITHOUT THE MOTOR IN WATER OR ON MUFFS. 30 SECONDS OF SPINNING THE MOTOR CAN BURN THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER. If the motor was taken care of by the first owner this may be all that you have to do. Get back to me with the compression readings and if possible the leak down test numbers. A leakdown test when you install a gauge on one cylinder at a time that will show you how well the cylinder is sealing up. It takes a hose and attachment much like a compression gauge but the gauge must be the type that will drop down on the readings so you can figure the percentage of leakdown. __________________ Laser's rule with Merc's doing the pushing..........KEEP THE WETSIDE DOWN AND THE DRY SIDE UP!!!!!!

12-20-06, 06:37 PM	#6
Rebbasser BassFishin.Com Premier Elite Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 10,141	Welcome to the forum! Agree with the transducer-use one for each depthfinder. If you have a transom mount, the front depthfinder will be 19 feet from the transducer which won't do you a whole lot of good. I use this mount on mine-works great and keeps the transducer out of harms way: http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults Regarding the engine, or specifically Laser's advice I think the product he is referring to is DeepCreep, not DeepCrank. It, along with Seafoam does a magnificant job cleaning the crap out of an engine. I run a can of seafoam through mine every other tank of gas or so. __________________ It's happened to the best of them: John 21:3

11-19-06, 09:21 PM	#3
Christopherkeene9 BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Oviedo, Fla Posts: 2,270	For the one on the dash you can run 3 different types of transducers: shoot thru, thru hull, or one thats mounted on the transom.

11-20-06, 12:15 AM	#4
fishin fool BassFishin.Com Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Winfield,WV Posts: 65	DO NOT CUT OR SPLICE ANYTHING ON YOUR TRANSDUCER CABLE!!!!!!!!!!!! You should run a seperate transducer for each however there is a switching device that allows you to switch between 2 transducers for 1 unit or 1 transducer for 2 units provided the transducer is of the proper frequency for that unit. If you have to buy 2 units new they will come with transducers for each. Also when running power to your units make sure to pull power directly from the battery or from a fuse panel that has a power and ground source. Do not pull power from an instrument gauge such as a tach it will cause electrical interference and give you false readings. Keep your power cord and transducer cables seperate from any wiring harnesses because of electrical interference also.

12-20-06, 08:36 PM	#7
Christopherkeene9 BassFishin.Com Super Veteran Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Oviedo, Fla Posts: 2,270	Guys I also thought of another idea! If you guys are going Lowrance, Furuno, Raymarine, Simrad, and a few others you guys can network the displays off of one transducer.

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