06-23-08, 02:47 AM | #1 |
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Floating Hook...
Alright guys, heres a little idea I have, or wondering if a product like this is even made...Basically the opposite of a weighted jig head...a hook with a small round floating substance (like cork or something) mounted on the top of the hook permanantly that will float rubber tackle.
It could be used with a floating worm for a true topwater worm, or with a sinking worm to hang it down from the waters surface like a feeding fish or something else. Do you think fish would go for a hanging worm? Anyhow, just an idea I had. If the product was at a store, ide buy it. |
06-23-08, 02:53 AM | #2 |
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haha nevermind, i just found floatinghook.com .... do you think something like that would completely float a rubber worm?
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06-23-08, 09:22 AM | #3 |
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Round here in Walleye country, they have floating jigheads. Just make with a bouyant substance instead of lead. Should be able to find them on Cabela's or BPS websites.
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06-23-08, 04:28 PM | #4 |
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man, thanks so much. I hope bassproshops carries some of these...would love to give them a shot.
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06-23-08, 06:50 PM | #5 |
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i couldnt find one on basspro.com
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06-23-08, 09:32 PM | #6 |
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It seem that Cabela's is more into the walleye stuff especially up here near Lake Eire.
Here's the basic ones: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...+jig&noImage=0 And here's some search results http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/co...+jig&noImage=0 BB
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06-23-08, 09:57 PM | #7 |
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One can shape styrofoam to serve the purpose. I took some round styrofoam rods, found at a craft store, cut them in lengths, shaped them into "Bullets" with help of coarse emery stick (borrowed from a lady.) and used them pegged ahead of floating T-rigged (light wire hooks!) worms. I also left some in their original cylindrical shape but dished the front. That gave me "popping bug" heads for the worms and those can be VERY effective, night or day, 'cause they give the impression of a small snake snapping at bugs or small baitfish on the surface. There were some nights on Medina Lake TX when I fished them under dock lights and WOW! Had some luck under moonlight as well.
You can color them with a marker and larger ones can still maintain bouyancy with a light spray of model aircraft/car paint. Don't forget to peg 'em. Lancer6 |
06-23-08, 11:14 PM | #8 |
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What do you mean 'peg' them?
Here are the ones I found at BPS's website.. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...RCH_GO&x=0&y=0 |
06-23-08, 11:24 PM | #9 |
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Pegging them is to keep them from moving. You can buy expensive fancy pegs and junk or use the end of a toothpick. Put it into the bottom of the weight (or in this case, float). this keeps it from mosving up the line. It gives you a idfferent action when using a weight, and with the float, it'll keep it from becomming practically a slip-bobber. Just be careful not to break the styrofoam float if you make then yourself with the toothpick.
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06-24-08, 12:11 AM | #10 |
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And....Use Peg-It(TM) pegs if you can, but if you must use toothpicks use round ones only and slobber on 'em before insertion. They can damage line.
BTW, I drilled the holes in the styro bullets and popper heads with a tiny bit on a Dremel Moto-Tool. Be sure and size the hole so that you can get a secure pegging. L6 |
06-24-08, 01:12 AM | #11 |
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So a peg is just basically something you stick into the bottom hole of a weight or float that pinches the line between itself and the side of the weight to stop the weight or float from sliding around? Sounds interesting.
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06-24-08, 04:40 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Yes, you get the drift. However, if using a toothpick you insert from the NOSE of the weight, press in firmly, then snap it off. RULE ONE: Wet the pick with saliva before insertion. The Peg-It(TM) is inserted from the REAR of the weight until the tip protrudes from the nose. You grasp the tip and draw the Peg-It(TM) through until tightly wedged. Then you carefully snip the butt end of the Peg-It so close to the bottom of the weight as possible. Then pull on the tip again until the cut end is just inside or flush with the opening in the concavity of the weight. Now...WET the LINE between the weight and knot with saliva and SLOWLY draw the weight down to meet the knot and/or nose of the worm/lizard/wot-tever. Then CAREFULLY snip the thin end of the Peg-It(TM, of course!) flush with the nose of the weight. Two things more... One: Rig your soft plastic BEFORE pegging when using the Peg-It(TEEEE-EMMMM) or AFTER if using a toothpick (which I'd prefer you don't.) Two: Weights cost money, especially the tungstens. Sooooo, to remove the Peg-It(You know.) use a small paperclip or round toothpick to push the Peg (yada yada) further through the nose so you can grab it 'twixt thumbnail and a fingernail to pull it out and properly discard. You can use the same method with a toothpick. Oh, BTW, NEVER leave part of the t-pick protruding from the opening in the concavity of the weight. BAD! Soooo...When I use toothpicks (rarely) I break them in half before use and, if need be, such as when using a very short weight or one with a rather wide hole, break off a bit of the sharp end before insertion. Then I make double-certain there's no wood protruding that might bear against the knot. Attention to detail! That's Job One! The actual Peg-It(TM) brand, such as sold at Acadamommy, will pass through most lead and brass weights OK, but are difficult to pass through many tungstens, such as Tru-Tungsten(TM) brand. However, the copycats sold at BPS have thinner tips and can usually squeeze past the line. Peg-It does offer a thinner-tip model but I ain't seen 'em anywhere. Lancer6 |
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06-24-08, 04:42 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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06-24-08, 05:10 PM | #14 |
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I don't believe it was meant in that context. Now we know who really has their mind in the gutter
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06-25-08, 01:18 AM | #15 |
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