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Old 09-07-07, 07:41 PM   #26
1FASTLASER
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Correct buddy. A hydraulic jack plate is the best but you can save some beans with the manual. As the commercial says.......SET IT AND FORGET IT.

After you report back about your tack findings we will get down to the nity grity and get you up and running like a LASER should.

Dont forget to check and see ifn ya got any slack in the cables to put the jack plate on. Not only makes it easier to do but as well doesnt put a bind on the cables that will eventually cause premature failure. NOT a dangerous situation but as time goes on it would get a little harder to turn.

When you take pics of the boat it would help out ifn ya get a good close up of where the motor mounts up so that we can inform you correctly.
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Old 09-09-07, 04:27 PM   #27
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Okay, managed to be partially successful. Could not get the digital tach for this weekend as he was not there Friday, so will try for next weekend. Did get to measure the motor. With all things level and plumb, the bullet nose is currently 4" below the bottom of the hull. Since it is supposed to be 6" I guess I need to drop it 2". Does this mean I still need a jackplate? Motor and speed still the same today. Can I check anything else or do I need to get the digital tach reading before proceeding?

I do not recall if I mentioned this, but the water pickup is directly underneath the bullet nose in the front.

Which brings to mind something that was said about the water pressure. I added the water pressure gauge after I burned up the previouse motor. The instructions said to remove a plug and attach the tubing. However, there was no plug that I could find anywhere. So I made a T fitting at the top of the motor in the tubing between the cylinder heads. At idle, I get about 6 lbs pressure, but when I am up and running on plane I read no pressure but water is coming out the petcock. Any ideas for a better arrangement?

Last edited by BassStalker; 09-09-07 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 09-09-07, 06:12 PM   #28
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whoo hoo an omc racing lower. the best you can get on an rude. likely omc's 6.1 gearing..-all this means it'll go just that much faster-

not sure the water pressure set up.. that lasers thing..



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Old 09-09-07, 09:14 PM   #29
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Ok re-read what ya posted.
First off you DONT want to get that motor any lower. ITS TOO DEEP NOW. What we meant is you need to set the motor BACK 6" not down 6". When we get you all done the center of your bullet will be somewhere between 2 1/2" to maybe even 1 1/2" below pad since you have the Low Water pickup lower unit which is FANTASTIC. This is a great unit to have to really optimize performance.

As far as the water pressure hook up you are in the wrong spot. If you cant find the plug on the heads to tie in ....T off of the water line that leads to your tattle tale spout. You are to high on the motor to get a accurate reading.

You DEFINATLEY need to get a jack plate and install it. That motor is WAY too deep. You are dragging the leg or lower unit. With just the installation of the jack plate and getting your motor closer to the desired height you will increase speed greatly.

You STILL NEED to get that tack checked. Something there still bothers me. Even though you are deep that motor oughta spin that wheel on up.
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Old 09-09-07, 09:16 PM   #30
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Here is where pics will be a great asset. As soon as I can locate some pics for ya on the correct place to hook up the water pressure gauge I will post em. Ifn ya can shoot some pics of the motor and the mounting area so we can actually see just exactly what you got so we dont mislead ya.
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Old 09-10-07, 09:06 PM   #31
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Laser, I agree with you, even if this motor is draggin' a bit, I still should run faster. Will work on getting the jack plate and relocating the water pressure T. I took a picture of the hull, and did the thing with the paperclip but for some unknown reason it will not upload. Anyone got any ideas? I tried changing the format from jpeg to bmp but apparently it is too big or something.

In thinking about this jackplate business, do I understand this right that the jackplate will move the motor 6" off the transom where it is currently mounted?
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Old 09-10-07, 09:25 PM   #32
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While you are at it, take pictures of the motor. Dont use the link... get the pictures URL address and then click the icon with the mountain looking things in it, click that and paste the URL address in the pop up box. Click ok and you are set.
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Old 09-10-07, 09:27 PM   #33
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On the jackplate question you are correct. A jackplate sets the motor BACK off the transom 6". AND with the option of moving the outboard up or down as needed.
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Old 09-13-07, 05:56 AM   #34
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Here ya go buddy
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 09-13-07, 06:00 AM   #35
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You definatley have a low water pick up installed. Whick is great. The motor is as high as she will go right now without the install of a j/p. You are still to deep to get that hull running. Really need to know if your tack is correct or not. I am thinking you might have another problem cant say till I know if your tack is correct or not. One thing I will point out is you have the same color scheme on that hull as the original color scheme on my Laser hull. What are the odds??
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Old 09-13-07, 06:02 AM   #36
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Everything I am seeing right now is pointing to some type of other problem, that is why I need to know about the tack. Even being deep and with that prop you sgould be turning more rpm's.
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Old 09-13-07, 08:07 AM   #37
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Many tnx to Laser for getting these pictures uploaded for me, I agree about the motor not quite turning the rpm's, just feels that way, will head out to the mechanic today just to make sure I can get the digital tach for the weekend. Also, picked up jackplate off ebay which will get installed as soon as it gets here...
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Old 09-13-07, 05:28 PM   #38
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hey laser what is the deal with the added spacer on the top bolt?? or is that a rubber boot??

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Old 09-13-07, 05:57 PM   #39
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Actually that is another part off of another motor that is being used as a washer.
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Old 09-16-07, 04:15 PM   #40
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Okay, guys, time to report back. The not so good news is that the digital tach did not work, the numbers come on but no rpm, I have a bit of mickey mouse wiring and suspect that the tach signal wire has been bypassed to run directly from the motor to the dash, there is a strange yellow wire that is an obvious addition, it appears I am out of gas on the tach. Second, slightly better news, the new jackplate is speeding its way to me even as we speak, all things being equal it should arrive shortly. Now, once I have the motor mounted and it has its necessary 6" setback, how high do I set it and will it require further tuning later?
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Old 09-17-07, 05:41 AM   #41
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Ok buddy. The more you look the more that my original though is coming true. I would definatley get your tack working THE PROPER way. Without a tack that isnt working properly as I am sure you know, will be VERY MISLEADING and cause improper setup. I also would check into a sync and link. Part of it you can do yourself and maybe the whole procedure ifn u are good with tools. Get yourself a manual if u want to go it yourself.

First step is to make sure throttles plates are opening all the way after you have removed the airbox. Just push throttle control over and visually check to see if throttle is working properly and AT THE SAME TIME. If not gotta do a link and sync. Its no more than setting everything so that carbs work at the SAME time and open FULLY.

On the Jack plate after bolting on...................use GOOD SILICONE in the transom bolt holes to seal up. We need to start with the bullet center of the lower unit at 3" below the CENTER of the pad at the very back. Dont remeber you do have a water pressure gauge that is working?????????

What we are gonna do is start jacking from that point to obtain the MAXIMUM WOT (wide open throlle) rpms and maximum speed. All three numers need to be good ones. They are different from EVERY boat. Our target is to get your motor spinning as close to 6000rpms and still producing power, good water pressure and decent holeshot. DO NOT let the water pressure fall below 15psi at WOT. Ifn ya do you risk blowing power head. DAMN I wish you where closer. Could do this pretty quick ifn I could get my hands on that bote.
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Old 09-17-07, 05:42 AM   #42
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Forgot to tell ya mount the motor back in the SAME holes as they are now. You will be able to get the most jack outta the plate this way.
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Old 09-17-07, 05:39 PM   #43
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A bit of good news. First, have ordered a laser tachometer, so should have that by the time I get the jackplate installed, it claims to be accurate within 1 rpm so that should be close enough.

With regard to the link and sync, my most recent mechanic and I went over that very thing and he assures me that all carburetors are opening properly and that the plates are in the correct position at WOT.

Laser, when you say start the jackplate with the bullet nose 3" below the pad, are you referring to the center of the bottom of the hull?
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Old 09-17-07, 07:33 PM   #44
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Ok now that the carb subject is outta the question and the tach will soon be where its supposed to be we can get down to the nitty gritty.

Yes I am talking about the very center of the hull. A good starting point or what I start at anyways is 3 inches below center of pad and work from there. From that point what I do is

#1 Make sure that I have the boat loaded like I will normally run the boat ie...fuel tackle etc etc

#2 Keep accurate records of WOT rpms,speed (preferably gps readings) and water pressure

#3 Also keep an eye on holeshot.

Setting a boat for maimum preformance is a balancing act between keeping a decent holeshot,keeping acceptable water pressure(dont want to drop below 15psi) and reaching top speed at rpms close to or at the highest rpm readings for your engine (in your case we want to get as close to 6000 as possiable)

Keeping this in mind I raise the plate 1/4" at a time and run her through the course. Now keep in mind that as speed on the top end increses you will loose some but not all of your holeshot. Its the nature of the beast. Once you get as close as possible to 6000 without loosing water pressure you will have reached the boats maximum engine height with THE PRESENT prop. Thats not to say more cant be had with a different prop. NORMALLY not always you can run a taller wheel with the addition of a jackplate. A 24 or a 25p wheel usually gets the best numbers on stock motors. Now yours is a little above stock because of the low water pickups so eventually you may be able to run a taller wheel. ONLY time and testing will tell the story.
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Old 09-26-07, 06:19 AM   #45
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Hey Bass Stalker how are things prgressing???? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 10-03-07, 09:01 PM   #46
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Hey Bass Stalker did ya get stuck somewhere buddy??????????
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Old 10-15-07, 12:08 PM   #47
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Hey guys, sorry about that, been out of town taking care of business. Well, I have managed to check the motor with the laser photo tach and found the the tach is reading consistently about 100 rpms high. So, the 4800 rpm I am reading WOT is really 4700. Yesterday when we went out, it topped out at 4400 rpm. And it felt that way also, speed about 40. Sure feels like something electrical electronic something like that. Fired it up at home and put a timing light on each spark plug wire and they appear to be firing consistently. As mentioned before, I have replace the power paks. Any chance the coils are breaking down? I am stuck trying to figure what it it might be. Plug wires? Oh, I have gotten the new jackplate which I picked up off ebay. If things settle down a bit, I am hoping to install that this coming weekend. Just to make sure I got this right, when I install the jackplate, I want the bottom of the water inlet nose 3 inches below the bottom of the hull at the center. Thanks again for your help.
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Old 10-16-07, 05:40 AM   #48
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LOL Good to see ya bud. Was begining to think ya ffell off the earth. Anyways you are correct on the 3" measurement. The center of the bullet on the lower unit you want 3" below the center most portion of the pad. That is a good starting point.
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Old 10-21-07, 03:01 PM   #49
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Okay, guys, time to give an update report. The jackplate is installed and the boat ran today. Planes up faster and sits higher out of the water. The water pressure reads a steady 8 pounds at WOT. However, the motor is still only turning 4800 and the speed remains in the low 40's.
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Old 11-05-07, 01:47 PM   #50
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New here. Just wanted to say that you are on the right track and getting good advice. Went through the same process with a '94 OMC 200. It was a thrill the first time the boat woke up an ran like it should.

My throttle cable slipped in the clamp on the starboard side at the motor. Could only get 3800 rpm out of it. Youmight want to check that.
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