05-03-10, 09:26 PM | #1 |
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TM In-line fuse holder
So I'm using the trolling motor and after about 10-15 minutes she just quits. The inline fuse/fuse holder blew. So this morning I go to the auto parts store to get an inline fuse holder rated for a 30 amp fuse. Biggest the had was heavy duty 12 gauge wire. My wire from rear to front is 10 gauge.
Is this okay to use or should I keep looking for a 10 gauge inline fuse holder?
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05-05-10, 12:26 PM | #2 |
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Well, I didn't feel warm 'n fuzzy using the in-line fuse with 12 gauge wire even though it was rated for up to 30 amps. After striking out at 3 auto parts stores and the boat dealer, I got the 10 gauge / 30 amp in-line fuse holder I need at Radio Shack.
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05-05-10, 05:26 PM | #3 |
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Good deal abby.
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05-06-10, 10:41 PM | #4 |
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Abby, if you have to change it again I's go to a circuit breaker. I wired it in just like the inline fuse but now if something happens instead of a blown fuse I just have to flip the circuit breaker. I got one of these and wouldn't go back to an inline fuse:
http://www.iboats.com/50-Amp-Trollin...view_id.168891
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05-07-10, 02:01 PM | #5 |
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Well Reb, from the factory, I have 10 gauge wire and it had a 30 amp fuse, so I replaced it with the same, except switched to blade type fuse w/cover instead of glass.
I think the circuit breaker is a great idea, but not at 50amps. Matter of fact, I'm testing the new setup right now with a 25amp fuse and it seems good so far...knock wood.
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05-17-10, 06:28 AM | #6 | |
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05-18-10, 12:22 AM | #7 |
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I'm sorry 1fast, but the factory designed this with a 10 gauge wire run rear to front with a 30 amp inline fuse at the battery. I really don't think a 50amp circuit breaker w/8 gauge wire is appropriate on a 10 gauge wire run of this type. Now if it was a 30amp breaker, I'd buy-in quickly as breakers are always better than old school fuses. Fact is that I've tested this now with a 25amp fuse and it runs just fine. I'd always prefer to blow a fuse or trip a breaker over smoking wires.
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Fish now, work later Last edited by Abbeysdad; 05-18-10 at 12:29 AM. |
05-18-10, 08:47 AM | #8 |
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I'm probably goint to be re-doing some of the wiring in my boat, also, so I have some interest in this topic. What about this kind of circuit breakers? 20, 30, 40, and 50 amp versions...
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05-18-10, 09:54 AM | #9 | |
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One of these days, when she gets a bit run down and needs a good refreshing, I'm going to completely re-wire my boat, and will make all of the main wiring #6. Nothing's too good for my baby.
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05-19-10, 12:24 AM | #10 | |
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Footnote: The wires to the plug on my Minnkota TM are 10 gauge too.
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Fish now, work later Last edited by Abbeysdad; 05-19-10 at 12:54 AM. |
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05-19-10, 06:32 AM | #11 |
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12v trolling motor? I think #8 is the lightest you can run for a 24v application.
Mine is #6 for a 36v. |
05-19-10, 09:09 AM | #12 |
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Oh, you still need overcurrent protection, for sure. A typical marine battery can deliver around 1000 amps into a dead short. If that happens without a fuse, it isn't pretty. First the wire insulation bursts into flames, then melts, and then the battery pops.
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05-19-10, 09:37 AM | #13 | |
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05-19-10, 12:05 PM | #14 |
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yes, it's a 12v TM.
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05-19-10, 12:09 PM | #15 | |
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My real point going back to reb and 1fast, was in putting a 50 amp breaker on an original 10gauge/30 amp fused system - I just wouldn't do it.... just like I went all over to find an in-line blade fuse holder on 10 gauge rather than 12 gauge wire.
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