11-27-05, 01:52 PM | #1 |
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Fiberglass rods for crankbaits
I have about 8 rods for all kinds of different techniques, but i want to start learning how to use a crankbait effectively and i want to know if anyone knows of a good fiberglass crankbait rod. Im want to start competeing in tournaments and i want a good crankbait rod to learn the technique. thanks
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11-27-05, 02:01 PM | #2 |
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GLoomis Crankbait rod series
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11-27-05, 02:24 PM | #3 |
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raul,they are graphite aren't they?i personally prefer a soft graphite over a fiberglass rod any day of the week.
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11-27-05, 02:37 PM | #4 |
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Yeah I fish graphite and never have problems with fish comming off. This time of the year you need a more sensative rod because crankbait hits aren't that hard.
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11-27-05, 02:37 PM | #5 |
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There are a lot of good crankbait rods on the market and the Lomis that was just mentioned is a good one in the over $150.00 range. I have tried many different types and lengths. The object is to eliminate the fast recovery of a graphite rod in order to allow the fish to capture the bait deeper for a better hook set. At the same time a good amount of sensitivity is also important. It helps you stay in touch with the bait better. There are a lot of composite rods on the market and many are a graphite body with a fiberglass tip. For an under $50.00 rod I recommend the Crankin Stick from BPS. I use one in a 7 foot model when throwing baits like the DD22 or DB3. Berkley also makes a rod called a gorilla stick for under $100.. It is designed for useing the new space age lines but is also a very light rod with a long handle and a fiberglass tip, It comes in both spinning and casting. I use a spinning model in 7 foot for Shad raps or other light small baits that are hard to cast on casting equipment. I know several good crankbiat fishermen that swear by a Ugly stick because of the slow recover tip it has.I dont think there is one crankin rod for all situations so dont limit yourself to just one or dont get tunnel vision before you start.I also own a ciouple of 3.8 to 1 reals that are supposed to be the end all for crankin. I have never done any good with either. I like a 4.7 to 5.2 real. Everyone has a natural cadence of retrieve. Mine is slow so a faster real than a 3.8 works better for me. Expereiment and then make up ypur own mind. Dont necassaruiily try to copy. Develope your own strebgths. Fish2win
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11-27-05, 03:36 PM | #6 |
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Bass pro shop has the Browning Silaflex rods for $29.99 and its fiberglass. I bought one and it is an excellent rod.I used it for jerkbaits, zara spook jr,crankbaits.I hope this helps, P N J
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11-27-05, 06:34 PM | #7 |
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My first couple of rods were fiberglass, perfect for perch jerkin' up at erie.
Once I bought a graphite rod I couldn't believe how light and easy to work with it was. Somewhere down the line the pro's all knew that a glass rod showed the action of the crankbait through the rod tip movement, and slowly but surely word got out to average joe fisherman. Its something to throw in the arsenal of stuff we use to catch ol lunker lips... I need to get one, a 5ft 5 inch would fit my needs, plus its easy to pick out when surrounded by 6ft 6inchers on the deck of the boat.. |
11-27-05, 07:47 PM | #8 |
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jb
fact #1 the rod you are looking for is always on the bottom of the rod pile. fact #2 a 5'5'' rod will not cast as far as a 7 footer. fact #3 bread always falls peanut buttered side down.. zooker
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11-27-05, 09:57 PM | #9 |
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Why can't you just one rod. All I use is one rod. The only problem is switching lures but thats why you guys have many rods. So what does the weight, fiberglass or graphite matter. But I do have to admit I love graphite over fiberglass.
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11-27-05, 10:16 PM | #10 |
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hold a graphite rod 8+ hours. they fatique your arm less than a fiberglass stick which has 1/2 the feel and twice the weight. the reason we have a ton of rods is well you answered that one. the time it takes you to switch a lure you can put down the first rod and get at least 2 cast in with the second rod. 3 if your me. now do this switching every 15-20 mintues how many more cast you make in 8 hours?? we all know line in the water means more fish hence the more time the line is wet the more fish you catch.. simple huh?
zooker
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11-27-05, 10:36 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Zooker, you do have a point, though: The rod you want is ALWAYS in the bottom of the rod box or rod pile Chris, I know you are a youngster. When you get out on your own, I GUARANTEE you will start a rod collection like a lot of us have if you keep fishing.
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11-27-05, 10:43 PM | #12 |
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collection is that what you call it. well i have a "collection" at my folks there is a "collection" at my brothers and there is a "collection" at my house. all told 50-55 rods ..
zooker
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11-27-05, 11:32 PM | #13 |
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Couldn't think of anything else to call it
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11-28-05, 06:46 AM | #14 |
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Chris, Some people get so involved in using a certain lure, where they want to refine their rod selection to make the lure easier to fish and have a better success rate at landing a big fish once they bite.Any time you use treble hooked lures you want a forgiving rod blank so you can tire the fish out without putting too much force to tear the treble hooks loose in the fish especially when they make a last surge attempt by the boat or shoreline. I hope this helps you.P N J
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11-28-05, 07:07 AM | #15 |
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just a sidebar note, I think the novelity of having a lot of rods on the boat deck, as you are going down the bank you begin to pick apart structure and see dif. applications for each lure/on a dif rod.
for example, you may be working a bank off the boat throwing a spinnerbait, then come across a tree in the water, and slow down to throw a worm, or a jig, or a crankbait, each one tied up to a dif rod. fishermen are an inpatient bunch of kats arent they? rofl |
11-28-05, 10:49 AM | #16 |
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Your point is right on JB. I will often rig for differnt depths when looking for fish or trying to develop a pattern. I might have one with a shallow or top water bait, maybe one with a crankbait and another with a spinnerbait, then one with a jig or worm. This gives me depth versatility as well as cover versitility.Once I develope a pattern I will usually put all but one or two rods away. OIt just saves time and can creat additional fish. Recently I was catching fish on PnJ. A bass blew minnows up behing the boat in open water. I put my jig rod down and picked up a crankbait that was already on the deck. Made a cast and caught a 3 lb smallie. I would not have caught that fish if that bait had not been readily availible.Fish2win
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11-28-05, 01:32 PM | #17 |
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Look into the shimano sojurn rods from ul to h saltwater priced about 20 dollars. these are glass rods that work well for cranks
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11-28-05, 03:38 PM | #18 |
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Yes sir they are graphite, havenīt used a fiberglass rod in about 25+ years, they weight a ton compared to graphite even though they are more forgiving. Like Rebb said, you donīt really need a specialized rod, I donīt own one and fish a lot with crankbaits ( 1/3 of the time ), my rods for crankin are medium rods, purists may say that the tip is too stiff ( fast ) but you compensate that with a limber rod, the only time I upgrade the power is when I have to fish those nasty submerged mesquite trees so common in mexican waters, and not beacause I canīt fish with a limber rod, itīs because you have to horse them out of the stuff and a limber rod just wonīt do the trick ( ask Rebb, he knows how it is to fish mesquite trees ). But If I were on the search for a crankbait rod I would go for a GLoomis.
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11-28-05, 05:53 PM | #19 |
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JB, I bought all of the rods but I only grab 4 rods when I go fun fish and take the whole arsenal tournament time.I am beginning to think the 4 would have worked just as well all of the time. P N J
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11-28-05, 06:20 PM | #20 |
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Me too pnj
I usually take 6-7 for tournaments, and 3-4 for fun fishing Always keep a worm or craw on one, a spook on another, a spinnerbait on another, a fluke on a spinning outfit, a grub on another spinning out fit, and then a crankbait on one of my baitcasters. I enjoy working over a area and finally throw the grub in just to see what will hit it, its amazing after a few pan fish hit it a bass will come by to check it out.. |
11-28-05, 07:52 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
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11-28-05, 08:34 PM | #22 |
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I see your view JB only I believe in Rick Clunns idea to a degree. I would use a mh baitcaster for all applications in the 6 foot 6 inch because I would become accustomed to the feel of the rod. I would have a bunch of 6 foot 6 inch mh all rigged up differently. Just my personal preference. On dropshotting I would use a spinning rod.
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11-29-05, 01:12 PM | #23 |
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Zook, I know exactly what you mean by a collection.
Currently I have three David Fritts crankin rods, but I've got to where I only use these for deep crankin. I have some of the BPS Crankin sticks that I use for regular crankbaits. These rods aren't quite as heavy as the David Fritts rods. All are 7'. I don't think that the BPS rods are all fiberglass. They may be a composite of fiberglass and graphite. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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11-29-05, 07:53 PM | #24 |
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Falcon Cara makes a line of 5 crankbait rods. I personally don't have any, I use a Falcon 6'6'' LFC-4-166.
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11-30-05, 01:06 AM | #25 |
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Depends on the qualities your looking for. I've got several of the G.loomis crankin series rod and the only one i like is the 6'6" medium action/power (782). The MH rod is 6'3" (753) is way too stiff. Kept ripping hooks out of fishes mouths. I've switched to the St. croix (legend crankbait series) rod because the actions and limberness seem to work a lot better on the heavier rods. Not to mention they are $100.00 less than the G.Loomis. Although they aren't quite as sensitive, for cranking they are more than sensitive enough and do a better job casting (all other things being equall, line, reels, etc...). They sell for under $100.00 up to $105, I think.
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